93.Hitoyoshi Castle Part1

The early stage of Hitoyoshi Castle was much larger than its later stage during the Edo Period which is what we call the castle ruins.

Location and History

Sagara Clan governs Hitoyoshi area long

Hitoyoshi Castle was located beside the Kumagawa River in the Hitoyoshi Basin in the southern part of Higo Province which is modern day Kumamoto Prefecture. The Sagara Clan, the builder of the castle was first sent to the Hitoyoshi area by the Kamakura Shogunate around 1200. They lived in their residence on a flat square space, surrounded by moats, in the area like other lords in other areas at that time used to do such as the Ashikaga Clan Hall. Some consider this is the origin of Hitoyoshi Castle, however, the residence was built in a different place and ways from the castle which would be built later on. The clan had continued to govern the area since their settlement and the government was allowed by the shogunate and the governor of the province, the Kikuchi Clan. The square residence was moved and rebuilt at least once, but it became a holy place where important ceremonies like recruitements for the clan were held.

Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The range of Higo Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Nagayori Sagara, the founder of the clan, drawn in the Edo Period, owned by Sagara Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

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Residence of Nagayori Sagara
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of the first residence of the Sagara Clan

Ashikaga Clan Hall

Nagatsugu Sagara builds Castle after his Overthrowing

However, it was not enough for them to maintain their territory and decide who would be their next successor. They were finally done by power and battles. In the middle of the 15th Century, Nagashige Nagatomi, a relative of the Sagara Clan, overthrew his superiors when the Bunan Internal Troubles happened and eventually became the lord of the clan, and he renamed it Nagatsugu Sagara. He first lived in Yamada Castle, a small mountain castle, located in the north of the previous lord’s residence. Then, he built and moved to Taka Castle which had several enclosures on the Shirasu plateau, near the residence, as he got more powerful. He probably made his retainers live in these enclosures to prepare for his taking over. It wss thought that he finally built Hitoyoshi Castle at the current place when he succeeded.

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Yamada Castle
Leaflet|国土地理院
The transition of the home bases of Nagashige Nagatone

Hitoyoshi Castle was built along the southern side of the Kumagawa River in a similar way to that of Taka Castle on the Shirasu plateau, but was much larger than it. In fact, the early stage of Hitoyoshi Castle was also much larger than its later stage during the Edo Period which is what we call the castle ruins. The early one was actually a group of local castles, such as Uehara-jo, Nakahara-jo, Shimohara-jo, Nishino-maru, Sotomawari, and Uchi-jo. Each local castle was on one hill of the plateau which was separated from the others by dry moats. The lord of the clan lived in Uehara-jo which was the highest and largest castle among the group. An interesting thing about Uehara-jo was that it included the square space surrounded by its own moats which had been considered as the holy space for the clan. The important ceremonies seemed to continue to be held in the same space, which meant even the powerful new lord still wanted to follow the clan’s tradition and authority.

A distant view of Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins beside Kumagawa River

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Uehara-jo
Leaflet|国土地理院
The relief map of the early Hitoyoshi Castle

Sagara Clan’s Success and Failure

The increasing force of the Sagara Clan flew out from the Hitoyoshi area to other areas in Higo Province. In particular, they wanted to get the Yatsushiro area beside the Yatsushiro Sea, which prospered from trading internationally. Nagatsugu’s son, Tametsugu started to invade the Yatsushiro area. Yoshishige, four generations after Tametsugu completed it and moved his home base from Hitoyoshi Castle to Furufumoto Castle which was called Yatsushiro Castle in 1534. The clan became one of the greatest warlords in the Kyushu Region and traded with foreign countries through the Ryukyu Kingdom, directly with the Ming Dynasty of China and even by smuggling. As a result, Hitoyoshi Castle was renovated as a branch castle of the clan. The Uchijo portion, which was used for the lord’s family residence, became the new lord’s residence which was called Miuchi.

The portrait of Yoshishige Sagara, the founder of the clan, owned by Sagara Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Furufumoto Castle, quoted from the website of Yatsushiro City

However, the Shimazu Clan, which aimed to invade all of the Kyushu Region in the late 16th Century, forced the Sagara Clan to surrender and hand Yatsushiro Castle over to the Shimazu Clan. The Sagara Clan had to return to Hitoyoshi Castle but was able to maintain it and their territory while the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi and the Tokugawa Shogunate was happening. Hitoyoshi Castle was reduced to the Miuchi area and the other parts were abandoned. Instead, the remaining area was modernized such as by building stone walls.

Hitoyoshi Castle was drawn in the Edo Period in “The illustration of Kuma Castle in Higo Province”, exhibited by the National Diet Library Digital Collections
The current Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins

The Sagara Clan governed the castle and the area around all through the Edo Period as the Hitoyoshi Domain. There were some problems in the domain during the long period. For example, an internal comflict, called Oshita Rebellion, happened in 1640. A senior vassal, Seibe Sagara, who got the power to be equal to the lord among the domain, was banished by the lord. His relatives were besieged in their residences, called Oshita-yashiki, but were defeated and the residences were also burned down. There was a great fire called Torasuke Fire in 1862, which caused many of the castle to burn down. After that, some of the stone walls were restored using a new method called Hanedashi which emulated the European castles.

The Hanedashi stone walls of Hitoyoshi Castle

To be continued in “Hitoyoshi Castle Part2”

93.人吉城 その1

下剋上により当主となった相良長続が築いた初期の人吉城は、私たちが現在城跡と認識している江戸時代の最終形の人吉城よりもずっと大きかったのです。

立地と歴史

相良氏が人吉地域を長く支配

人吉城は、現在の熊本県にあたる肥後国の南部に位置する人吉盆地を流れる球磨川沿いにありました。この城を築いた相良(さがら)氏は最初は、1200年前後に鎌倉幕府により人吉地域に派遣されてきました。彼らは、当初堀に囲まれた四角い敷地に居館を構えていました。当時は、足利氏館に見られるように、他の地域の領主たちもそのようなところに住んでいたのです。この館が人吉城の起源だという人もいますが、後に築かれた城とは違う場所に違う形態で建てられたのです。相良氏は、定住してからその地域を治め、その地位は幕府や肥後国の守護である菊池氏によっても公認されていました。その方形の居館は、その後少なくとも1回は移設、再建されましたが、その場所自体が相良氏にとっての聖地と見なされ、任官式のような重要な儀式がそこで取り行われました。

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人吉城
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
肥後国の範囲と城の位置

相良氏の初代、相良長頼肖像画、江戸時代、相良神社蔵   (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

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相良長頼居館
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
相良氏の当初の居館位置

足利氏館跡

相良長続が下剋上により当主となり人吉城を築城

しかし、そのこと(権威)だけでは領地を維持したり、後継者を決めるということは実際にはできませんでした。結局は勢力が大きいとか、戦に打ち勝つといったことが決定的な要因でした。15世紀中頃、相良氏の親族にあたる永留長重(ながとめながしげ)が、文安の内訌(ぶんあんのないこう)と呼ばれる氏族内の争いに乗じて権力を獲得し、ついには相良氏の当主となり、名前を相良長続(さがらながつぐ)と改めました。彼はもともと、領主の館の北方にあった山田城という小さな山城を拠点としていました。そして力をつけるに従い、当主の館近くのシラス台地上に、いくつもの曲輪を持つ高城(たかじょう)を築き、移り住みました。恐らくは、その城に家臣たちを住まわせ、下剋上の準備をしたのでしょう。それを成し遂げると、最終的に現在の場所に人吉城を築いたと考えられています。

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山田城
Leaflet|国土地理院
永留長重の本拠地の変遷

人吉城は、球磨川の南岸沿いに、シラス台地上の高城と同じような形式で築かれましたが、高城よりはずっと大規模でした。実は初期の人吉城は、私たちが現在城跡と認識している江戸時代の最終形の人吉城よりもまた、ずっと大きかったのです。初期の人吉城は、実際には配下の城の集合体で、それらは上原城、中原城、下原城、西の丸、中尾、内城などと呼ばれていました。それぞれが台地上の丘に築かれ、空堀によって他と区切られていました。相良氏の当主は、城群の中で最大で且つもっとも高所に位置する中原城を居城としていました。上原城に関して興味深いことは、その中に独自の堀で囲まれた四角いスペースが含まれていたことです。そこが相良氏にとっての聖地であり、重要な儀式が昔と同じような場所で行われていたようなのです。実力によって権力を握った新しい当主にとっても、氏族の伝統や権威を継承することも必要であったと思われます。

球磨川南岸の城跡遠景

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上原城
Leaflet|国土地理院
初期の人吉城周辺の起伏地図

相良氏の拡大と挫折

相良氏の拡大する勢力は、人吉地域を飛び出し、肥後国の他の地域に及びました。特に、彼らは八代海に面する八代地域を手に入れようとしました。その地域は国際貿易により繁栄していたのです。長続の子、為続(ためつぐ)が八代地域への侵攻を開始しました。為続から4代目の義滋(よししげ)が八代獲得を達成し、1534年に本拠地を人吉城から、当時は八代城と呼ばれた古麓城(ふるふもとじょう)に移しました。相良氏は九州地方における有力な戦国大名となり、琉球王国を通じた海外貿易や、明王朝との直接取り引き、果ては密貿易まで行いました。その結果、人吉城は相良氏の支城として改修されました。その過程で内城と呼ばれた相良氏の家族の住居地が、御内(みうち)と呼ばれる新しい城主の住居地となりました。

相良義滋肖像画、相良神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
古麓城跡、八代市ホームページより引用

ところが16世紀後半に島津氏が全九州地方の制覇を企て、相良氏に降伏と八代城を引き渡すよう強いたのです。相良氏は人吉城に戻らざるを得ず、それでも豊臣秀吉や徳川幕府による天下統一の過程においてはコアの領土を維持することができました。人吉城は御内の範囲に縮小され、それ以外の部分は放棄されました。その代わりに残った部分は石垣を築くなどして近代化されました。

江戸時代の人吉城を描いた「肥後国球麻城絵図」、出典:国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション
現在の人吉城跡

相良氏は江戸時代の間中、人吉藩として城とその周辺地域を支配しました。しかし、その長い期間には藩内でいくつもの問題が発生しました。例えば、お下の乱と呼ばれる内紛が1640年に起こりました。重臣の一人である相良清兵衛が藩内で藩主に匹敵するほどの勢力を持ち、ついには藩主により追放されたのです。彼の一族はお下屋敷と呼ばれた館に籠りましたが、鎮圧され館も焼かれました。また、1862年には寅助火事と呼ばれる大火が起こり、城の多くが焼亡しました。その後、石垣の一部がヨーロッパの城郭を模した跳ね出しと呼ばれる新技法によって再建されました。

人吉城の跳ね出し石垣

「人吉城その2」に続きます。

194.Saiki Castle Part3

People can climb Saiki Castle Ruins on the mountain any day, because the ruins are near the city area.

Features

Northen Enclosure and Two Reservoirs

Let us visit the Northern Enclosure on the northern ridge of the mountain, which spreads from the Main Enclosure as well. Its top area is also surrounded by low stone walls being lined up neatly. It is separated from the Main Enclosure by an altered gate with stone walls and has the exit to the Back Route (also called Wakamiya Route) nearby.

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Northern Enclosure
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The mountain part of the castle

The long Northen Enclosure on the northern ridge
The edge of the Northen Enclosure
The stone walls surrounding the top of the Northern Enclosure

If you get out of the exit and climb down the trail on the route, you will eventually reach the two major reservoirs on the back valley, the upper Male Pond and the lower Female Pond. They are also surrounded by stone walls, which were probably considered the lifeline of the castle.

The exit to the back gate
Climbing down to the Male Pond
The Male Pond
The Female Pond

If you go up the trail a little, you can walk around the mid slope of the northern ridge where you can see some base stone walls beside the trail. The Northern Enclosure is supported by both of the stone walls around the top and the base. As you walk around, you will also see the great four-tiered stone walls supporting the Main Enclosure, which were recently discovered in 2009.

The path around the mid slope of the northern ridge
The stone walls supporting the base of the northern ridge
Getting close to the Main Enclosure
The great four-tiered stone walls

Defensive spot of Castle

There is also the Western Enclosure on the western ridge, which is next to the Second Enclosure, opposite the Main Enclosure. It is separated from the Second Enclosure by a narrow gate with stone walls and has the end point of the Suimei Route from the foot of the mountain. This was the defensive spot of the castle’s western side which is another viewing spot of the city area. You can also see round-shaped stone foundations there, which do not belong to the castle, but are the ruins of an anti-aircraft gun position during WWII.

The inside of the Second Enclosure
The gate between the Second and Western Enclosures
The turret ruins at the Western Enclosure
A view from the Western Enclosure
The ruins of the anti-aircraft gun position

Remaining Main Hall Gate

The bottom part has the Third Enclosure Turret Gate, the only remaining building of the castle. This gate was the one for the Main Hall for the lord in the enclosure. The inside of it behind the gate is an empty space now. Saiki City Historical Museum is another attraction of the castle where you can learn about the history of the castle and city, including Takamasa Mori, the founder of the castle. You can also enjoy a view of the mountain with great stone walls on the top, from the front of the museum.

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Third Enclosure Turret Gate
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The map around the castle

The remaining Third Enclosure Turret Gate
The inside of the Third Enclosure is empty
The entrance of Saiki City Historical Museum
A view of the castle ruins from the front of the museum

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Saiki Castle was abandoned and all the buildings on the mountain were demolished. The mountain part was eventually used as a park and Mori Shrine. Saiki City started to excavate the mountain in 2009. The excavation team found that the castle was a newly built mountain castle in the Edo Period which was very rare in Japan. As a result, the castle ruins on the mountain were just designated as a National Historic Site in 2022. The bottom part had part of the Main Hall with its gate as an official building or a school for a long time, however the final remaining entrance of the hall was move to another place in 1969 for the construction of the Saiki Cultural Hall. The only remaining gate has been designated as a tangible cultural property of the city.

The photo of the entrance of the hall before being moved, exhibited by Saiki City Historical Museum

My Impression

I think people in Saiki City are proud of their home town and its history. For example, in their daily life, if they have time and the weather is not bad, they can climb Saiki Castle Ruins on the mountain any day, because the ruins are near the city area. As a result, they can enjoy beautiful scenery, get good health, and learn their local history. I wish I could live in an area like Saiki City.

A full view of the castle ruins (the mountain and foot)

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 15 minute drive away from Saiki IC on the Higashi-Kyushu Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in front of the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Oita bus from JR Saiki Station and get off at the Ote-mae bus stop. It takes a few minutes on foot to get there.
For visitors from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the express bus to Oita Station from Oita Airport after using a plane, and get the train on the Nippo Line from the station.

That’s all. Thank you.
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