97.Kagoshima Castle Part1

The home base of the Shimazu Clan and the final place of Seinan War

Location and History

Castle is built after Battle of Sekigahara

Kagoshima Castle was the home base of the Shimazu Clan during the Edo Period and is also known as the final battlefield of Seinan War which was the last civil war in Japan in 1877. The Shimazu Clan had been a great warlord in the southern part of the Kyushu Region during the Sengoku Period between the middle 15th and the late 16th Centuries. However, in the fateful Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, the West Squad including the clan was completely defeated by the East Squad, led by Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Shimazu troops with about 1500 soldiers somehow escaped from the battlefield in the Chubu Region (central Japan) to their home base of Satsuma Province in the Kyushu Region. However, only 80 clan members survived.

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Kagoshima Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of the castle

The folding screens of the Sekigahara Battle, owned by Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Shimazu Clan was worried that the shogunate would attack Satsuma Province directly. Therefore, the clan decided to build a new castle as their home base, which was stronger than their previous one like a simple hall. It was built at the foot of the Shiroyama Mountain on the west, which would be used as the final place for emergencies. It had the Main and Second Enclosures which were surrounded by stone walls and water moats from the north, the east and the south. The Main Enclosure had the Main Hall for the lord inside and one of the largest castle gates in Japan, called Goro-mon. However, the defense system of the castle was still not as complex as those of other major castles in Japan, such as the Main Tower, several-level turrets, and high, elaborately bent stone walls. This was because the Satsuma Domain led by the Shimazu Clan also had a unique defense system called Tojo or the Outer Castles. It refers to the domain sending many of its retainers to their local sites and letting them govern and protect it by themselves, which was different from other domains bringing their retainers together in their home base.

The miniature model of Kagoshima Castle, viewed from the northeastern direction, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material
Thw part of Goro-mon Gate from the miniature model above
The miniature model of Izumi Outer Castle, a representative one in the Satsuma Domain, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material

Luckily, the shogunate allowed the Satsuma Domain to continue to govern Satsuma Province until the end of the Edo Period. Even in Anglo-Satsuma War in 1863 when the English Navy battleships shot the Kagoshima city area, the castle was not targeted because it didn’t have tall buildings. After the Meiji Restoration, the castle was used as the prefectural office and as a Japanese Army base, but the buildings of the Main Enclosures were unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire in 1874.

The old photo of Kagoshima Castle, taken just before burning down, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material

Outbreak of Seinan War

The climax event for the castle finally happened in 1877. Takamori Saigo, one of the Three Greatest Heroes of the Restoration, quit all his government posts, being against the other two, Toshimichi Okubo and Takayoshi Kido, and returned to his home of Kagoshima in 1873. He established his private school called Shigakko in the Second Enclosure of Kagoshima Castle in 1874 to educate young warriors. He tried to control the young people gently, however, as a result, he became the head of the rebellion against the government led by Okubo, which eliminated the privileges of warriors, such as having a sword, and it cut their hereditary salaries in 1876. Several rebellions happened in the same year, followed by the largest Seinan War led by Saigo, which occurred in February of 1877.

The portrait of Takamori Saigo by Edoardo Chiossone (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Toshimichi Okubo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Saigo with his troops decided to go north and capture Kumamoto Castle. He and his crew were at first optimistic as they were professional warriors and accommodated supporters from other areas in the Kyushu Region, with the total of 30,000 at maximum. While the number of the defenders in the castle was only over 3,000 and many of them were drafted farmers. The Saigo troops even expected that the defenders would soon surrender because some of their leaders had come from Satsuma. However, the defenders, led by General Tani, never surrendered and Okubo sent the reinforcement to the castle. It also had many drafted soldiers, but was more well trained than Saigo expected and more equipped and supplied than the Saigo troops. The government even used advanced information technologies such as telegraph the Saigo troops never had. Saigo had to withdraw from Kumamoto Castle in April and tried to stay in other areas in the Kyushu Region, such as Hitoyoshi Castle, but all failed. He finally declared the dissolution of his troops in August. He and his close warriors of only nearly 400 wanted to have their last and desperate battle in their original home base, Kagoshima Castle.

Kumamoto Castle
The commanders of Chinzei Chindai led by General Tateki Tani, from Asahi encyclopedia (licensed under Public Domain via Wikipedia Commons)

Last moment of Saigo and Castle

They somehow reached there in the first of September and allocated themselves to the foot area and Shiroyama Mountain. Of course, they were too few to prevent the government troops of as many as 50 thousands from attacking. If it had been in the Sengoku Period, Saigo would have set his stronghold on the mountain, but it was impossible because it could be targeted by cannons. Therefore, he had to stay in the caves in a valley between the mountain and the foot, which would be called the Saigo Caves later on. The government troops completely besieged the Satsuma rebels so that no one could escape. Their full scale attack was done on 24th of September. Saigo was assaulted from his cave, but was shot, and finally killed himself by performing the Harakiri.

The Saigo Caves
The government army fortification around Shiroyama Mountain (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kagoshima Castle Part2”

97.鹿児島城 その1

島津氏の本拠地であるとともに、西南戦争終焉の地

立地と歴史

関ヶ原の戦いの後に築城

鹿児島城は、江戸時代の間島津氏の本拠地であり、また1877年に起こった日本最後の内戦である西南戦争の最後の戦場となったことでも知られています。島津氏は15世紀中盤から16世紀までの戦国時代における九州地方南部の有力な戦国大名でした。ところが、1600年の天下分け目の関ヶ原の戦いでは、島津氏を含む西軍は、徳川幕府の創始者となる徳川家康率いる東軍に完敗しました。約1500人の兵による島津軍は、中部地方にあった戦場から何とか逃れ、九州地方の薩摩国にあった本拠地にたどり着きましたが、そのときまで生き残った人数はたった80人でした。

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鹿児島城
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
城の位置

「関ヶ原合戦図屏風」、関ケ原町歴史民俗資料館蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

島津氏は、幕府軍が薩摩国を直接攻撃してくるのではないかと憂いていました。そこで、本拠地としての新しい城を築くことを決めたのです。それまでの本拠地はシンプルな館だったので、それよりはずっと強力なものでした。城は西側にある城山の麓に築かれ、山は緊急事態のときの詰め城とされました。城には本丸と二の丸があり、北・東・南側を石垣と水堀が囲んでいました。本丸の内部には領主の御殿があり、御楼門(ごろうもん)と呼ばれる日本でも最大級の門がありました。しかし、それでもこの城の防衛システムは、天守・多層階の櫓、高く巧みに曲げられた石垣といったものがあった日本の他の城ほど複雑ではありませんでした。これは、島津氏が治めていた薩摩藩には外城(とじょう)と呼ばれた独特な防衛システムがあったからなのです。それは、藩が多くの藩士を地元に送り、その拠点を自身で守らせるというものでした。他の藩では通常、藩士を本拠地の城下に集住させていたので、薩摩藩のやり方は異なっていました。

鹿児島城の模型(北東側からの視点)、黎明館にて展示
上記模型の御楼門部分
代表的な外城の一つ、出水(いずみ)外城の模型、黎明館にて展示

幸運にも幕府は、薩摩藩に薩摩国を江戸時代末期まで統治することを認めました。1863年に起こった薩英戦争のときのことですが、イギリスの軍艦が鹿児島市街地を砲撃しましたが、城は砲撃目標とされませんでした。高層の建物がなかったからです。明治維新後、城は県庁と陸軍施設として使われました。しかし残念ながら、本丸の建物は1874年の失火により焼け落ちてしまいました。

焼け落ちる以前の鹿児島城の古写真、黎明館にて展示  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

西南戦争の勃発

ついに、この城の最大の出来事が1877年に起こります。維新三傑の一人である西郷隆盛が、他の二傑、大久保利通と木戸孝允に反発し、政府での職を全て辞して1873年に故郷の鹿児島に帰ってきました。彼は1874年に鹿児島城の二の丸に私学校を設立し、若い武士たちの教育を始めました。西郷は穏やかに若手をコントロールしようとしたのですが、結局大久保率いる政府に対する反乱の首謀者に担ぎ上げられてしまったのです。大久保は、帯刀などの武士の特権を廃止し、1876年には代々受け継がれた家禄をも取り上げました(秩禄処分)。同年からいくつか反乱が発生したのですが、その最大のものが1877年2月に起こった西郷による西南戦争でした。

西郷隆盛像、エドアルド・キヨッソーネ作 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
大久保利通肖像画 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

西郷とその軍勢は、北の方に行き熊本城を占拠しようとしました。彼とその側近たちは最初は楽観的でした。彼らはプロの武士集団であり、九州地方の他の地域から集まった支援者たちを加えると、その兵数は最大時で3万に達しました。一方、熊本城の守備兵の数はわずか3千超であり、多くは徴集された農民兵でした。西郷軍は、城の守備兵はすぐにでも降伏するとさえ考えていました。幹部の何人かは薩摩出身だったからです。ところが、谷将軍が率いる守備兵は決して降伏せず、大久保は援軍を城に送りました。その援軍の多くも徴収兵でしたが、西郷が思うよりずっとよく訓練され、西郷軍よりもずっと装備や兵站が充実していました。政府側は電信のような先端の情報技術さえ駆使しました。西郷側にはとてもそのようなものはありませんでした。4月には西郷は熊本城から撤退せざるをえず、人吉城などの九州の他の地域に滞陣しようとしますが、全て失敗しました。西郷はついに8月に反乱軍の解散を宣言します。わずか400名近くとなってしまった彼と側近たちは、最期の決死の戦いを、故郷且つ本拠地である鹿児島城で行うことを望みました。

熊本城
谷干城少将に率いられた鎮西鎮台の指揮官たち、朝日百科より (licensed under Public Domain via Wikipedia Commons)

西郷と城の最期

彼らは9月初めに鹿児島城に何とかたどり着き、城山の麓と山上に兵を配置しました。もちろん5万人からなる政府軍からの攻撃を防ぎきれるものではありません。もし、これが戦国時代の出来事であったなら、西郷は山上に本陣を置いたでしょう。しかし、それは大砲の標的となってしまうため不可能でした。そのため、彼は山と麓の狭間の谷にあった洞窟に留まらざるをえず、そこは後に西郷洞窟と呼ばれるようになります。政府軍は、人っ子一人逃げられないよう完全に薩摩の反乱軍を包囲しました。そして9月24日に総攻撃を開始したのです。西郷は洞窟から突撃を敢行しましたが、銃撃され、最後は切腹して果てました。

西郷洞窟
政府軍の包囲陣地、1877年 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikipedia Commons)

「鹿児島城その2」に続きます。

190.Yatsushiro Castle Part3

The more I learn about the castle, the more I want to go back and visit again.

Features

Other Attractions than Main Enclosure

Other than the Main Enclosure, the others were turned into the city area. However, some traces of the castle can be seen in several places. For example, the former Second Enclosure, located in the east of the Main Enclosure, is used for modern buildings such as the city hall. The area is surrounded by low stone walls, which were probably re-piled using excavated stones. Some of them look new and very white!. It could be because they had been buried for a long time before they were found.

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Yatsushiro City Hall
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The map around the castle

Yatsushiro City Hall and the stone walls surrounding it
There are some pure white stones

The Northern Enclosure, located in the north of the Main Enclosure, was used as the retreat residence of Sansai Hosokawa and the home of the Matsui Clan later. There are still some stone walls surrounding it, which look original. The inside of it is used as Matsui Srine which worships the clan’s ancestors.

The stone walls surrounding the Northern Enclosure
The inside of the Northern Enclosure
Matsui Shrine

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Yatsushiro Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. Few of them were moved and remain in other places. Most of the castle land was turned into the city area with its moats being filled, while Yatsushiro Shrine was built in the Main Enclosure in 1884. As a result, the group of the three castles, which were called Yatsushiro Castle in each period, as Furufumoto, Mugishima, and present time Yatsushiro Castle, have been designated as a National Historic Site together since 2014.

The entrance of Yatsushiro Shrine, built in the Meiji Era

My Impression

I didn’t know about Yatsushiro Castle at all before my visit. I was first surprised to see the good combination of white stone walls and green water. Then, I understood the elaborate defense system, contributed by the Masugata space. Finally, I enjoyed the great view of the Main Tower stone wall base. After visiting, I learned the two other castles, called Yatsushiro Castle earlier on, and the history of land reclamation in Yatsushiro. In the Edo Period, white stone walls like the castle were built for embankments. I would like to visit the area again some day to see the three Yatsushiro Castles and the white stone walls somewhere.

The stone walls and the Inner Moat at the northern side of the Main Enclosure
Ruins of the land reclamation in Edo Period in Yatsushiro, called Kochuhi

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about a 6km drive away from Yatsushiro IC on the Kyushu Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the northeastern corner of the Main Enclosure.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Sanko Bus bound for Yatsushiro-Sanko from Yatsushiro Station and get off at the Yatsushirogu-mae bus stop to get there.
From Fukuoka to Yatsushiro Station: Take the Kyushu Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Kagoshima Line at Shin-Yatsushiro Station.

The parking lot of the castle ruins for visitors
Yatsushiro Station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Yatsushiro Castle Part1”
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