83.Uwajima Castle Part1

Takatora Todo built and the Date Clan maintained the castle.

Location and History

Takatora Todo builds Castle

Uwajima Castle is located in Uwajima City in the southern part of Ehime Prefecture which was called Iyo Province in the past. The province was divided by many warlords during the Sengoku Period between the late 15th and 16th Century. The Saionji Clan lived in Itajima-Marugushi Castle on the mountain where Uwajima Castle would be built later. When Hideyoshi Toyotomi was processing his unification of Japan, Takatora Todo who served under Hideyoshi, became the lord of the southern Iyo in 1595. For Takatora, who would be known for a master of castle construction, that was the first time to be an independent lord. He chose the mountain, the former Itajima-Marugushi Castle as his home base, and started to build Uwajima Castle on it in 1596.

The range of Iyo Province and the location of Uwajima Castle

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Itajima-Maruguchi Castle had been a simple mountain castle. Takatora changed it to a modernized castle using advanced technology and his ideas. The mountain faced Uwajima Bay in the north and west, then he built moats filled with sea water also in the south and east. The line of the seaside and moats were shaped like a pentagon, which might have made enemies upset when they would attack the castle. He also built stone walls like covering the mountain, and some castle entrances using Masugata style which had a square space to prevent enemies’ attack. Moreover, the three-leveled Main Tower was built on natural rocks at the top. The castle construction was completed in 1601.

The illustration of Uwajima Castle and Town in 1703, owned by Uwajima Date Bunka Hozonkai, from the signboard

On the other hand, the castle had many small enclosures on the mountain, such as Main, Second, Third, and Nagato-maru. This is one of the features old mountain castles including Itajima-Marugushi Castle had, which Uwashima Castle had to follow. The Main Tower, which was built using waste materials, became too old about 60 years after completion. According to Takatora’s biography, the Main Tower of Kagomori Castle, a branch castle of Takatora’s territory, was moved to Uwajima Castle in 1604 and used as a turret. Considering these situations, Takatora might not have had enough resources to complete his ideal castle. He eventually moved to Imabari Castle in his new territory in 1600.

The location map of the gathered enclosures around the mountain, from the signboard adding comments by myself
The ruins of Kagomori Castle

Main Tower is replaced

In 1614, the Date Clan became the lord of Uwajima Castle and the Uwajima Domain until the end of the Edo Period. The second lord, Munetoshi Date renovated the castle in the 1660s because of aging and the damage from an earthquake. In particular, the Main Tower was replaced completely with a new one. The new Main Tower had three levels same as the old one, but its appearance was very different. The old one was the lookout-tower type, while the new one was the multi-storied type. However, the most important point of the new one is that it was built in the peace time. It was built on the stone wall base at the center of the Main Enclosure independently, not connected to other buildings. It had many decorations just for appearance, and had few equipment for battles. Overall, it has often been called “Main Tower for the symbol of peace time”, which we can now see.

The old tower on the right and the new tower on the left, from the signboard
The remaining Main Tower of Uwajima Castle

Many talented people together in Uwajima

The eighth lord, Munenari Date was very active in Japanese politics at the end of the Edo Period. With the arrivals of strong Western steam warships to Japan, which was a treat to the country, Munenari tried to build his domain’s own steamship. He invited people with unusual power to achieve this, such as Zoroku Murata, a doctor who would be the leader of the first Japanese Army, Choei Takano, another doctor, who were running away from the Tokugawa Shogunate, and low-class craftsmen. He finally succeeded. He might have thought Uwajima Castle was not suitable in that situation and create the steamship like a moving castle to deal with the new situation.

The photo of Munenari Date, from a Japanese book “徳川慶喜公伝” (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Zoroku Murata from a Japanese book called Kinsei Meishi Shashin vol.2 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Choei Takano, owned by Choei Takano Memorial Hall (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Uwajima Castle Part2”

83.宇和島城 その1

藤堂高虎が築き、伊達氏が維持した城

立地と歴史

藤堂高虎が築城

宇和島城は、過去には伊予国といった愛媛県の南部地方(南予地方)にある城です。伊予国は、15世紀後半から16世紀までの戦国時代には多くの戦国大名によって分割されていました。後に宇和島城が築かれることになる山には、板島丸串(いたじままるぐし)城という城があり、西園寺氏が居城していました。豊臣秀吉が天下統一事業を進めているとき、秀吉の家臣、藤堂高虎が1595年に南予地方の領主となりました。高虎は、築城の名手として知られるようになるのですが、このとき初めて独立した領主になったのです。彼は本拠地として、もと板島丸串城だった山を選びました。そして1596年に宇和島城の築城を始めたのです。

伊予国の範囲と宇和島城の位置

藤堂高虎肖像画、個人蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

板島丸串城は、シンプルな山城でした。高虎はそれを、当時最新の技術と彼の構想によって、近代的な城に作り変えました。その山は、北側と西側が宇和島湾に面していました。そこで高虎は、南側と東側も海水を引き込んで堀としたのです。その海岸と堀から作られる形は五角形のようになっていて、敵が城を攻撃してきたときに惑わせる効果もあったようです。高虎は、山を覆うような石垣や、敵の攻撃を防ぐための桝形と呼ばれる四角いスペースを備えた虎口(入口)も築きました。更には、山の頂上の自然の岩の上に、三層の天守が築かれました。城の建設は、1601年に完了しました。

宇和島御城下絵図、元禄16年(1703年)、宇和島伊達文化保存会蔵(現地説明板より)

その一方でこの城には、本丸、二の丸、三の丸、長門丸といった小さな曲輪がたくさんありました。これは古い山城の特徴の一つであり、前身の板島丸串城もそうでした。宇和島城はその特徴を引き継がざるをえなかった訳です。次に、天守は廃材を利用して建造されましたが、その完成の60年後には老朽化が激しくなってしまいました。また、高虎の伝記によれば、高虎の領地にあった支城の河後森城の天守が、1604年に宇和島城に移築されてきて櫓として使われたとあります。これらの状況を勘案すると、当時の高虎には理想の城を完成させるには十分なリソースがなかったのかもしれません。1600年には、高虎は新しい領地の今治城に移っていきました(領地替えではなく、今治の地を加増され、宇和島城は家臣が城主となりました)。

密集している曲輪の配置図、現地説明板より
河後森城跡

立て替えられた天守

1614年、伊達氏が宇和島城主と宇和島藩主となり、江戸時代末期までこの地を統治しました。2代目藩主、宗利(むねとし)は、1660年代に老朽化と地震の被害による城の大改修を行いました。特に、天守は完全に新しいものに置き換えられます。新しい天守は古いものと同じ三階建てでしたが、外観は全く違っていました。古い方は望楼型であり、新しい方は層塔型でした。しかし、新しい天守における一番重要なことは、それが平和の時代に建てられたということです。天守は、他の建物に連結されるのではなく、独立して本丸の中心にある石垣上に建てられました。そして、天守には見栄えをよくするための装飾が多く付けられ、戦いのための装備はわずかでした。総じて、この天守はしばしば「太平の世を象徴する天守」と言われたりします。それが現在われわれが目にしている天守です。

旧天守(右側)と新天守(左側)との比較、現地説明板より
宇和島城の現存天守

幕末に多彩な人材が結集

8代目藩主の宗城(むねなり)は、幕末の日本政界で大変活躍しました(いわゆる四賢侯の一人とされます)。強力な西洋の蒸気船が日本に現れ、日本が脅威にさらされる中、宗城は藩独自の蒸気船を建造しようとしました。彼はこれを成し遂げるために、異才を放つ人材を招きます。例えば、医者で後に初期の日本陸軍の指導者となる村田蔵六、こちらも医者で幕府から追われる身であった高野長英、そして下層の職人たち(前原功山など)です。彼の試みは成功します(藩としては薩摩藩に次ぐ2番目、純国産では最初との評価もあります)。宗城は、宇和島城を新しい状況に適用させるのは難しいと考え、蒸気船を動く城として作り上げたのかもしれません。

伊達宗城、「徳川慶喜公伝」より (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
村田蔵六、「近世名士写真 其2」より (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
高野長英肖像画、高野長英記念館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「宇和島城その2」に続きます。

179.Kagomori Castle Part3

A great leaning opportunity for visitors and local people

Later History

The full-scale research of Kagomori Castle started in 1991. The excavation team found that the castle had been improved during its long history and it still has some mysteries like whether or not it had a Main Tower. After that, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1997. Based on the results of the research, Matsuno Town has been developing the castle ruins as a historical site since 1999. For example, some castle buildings were eventually restored in the Main, Western 10th, and Kojo Enclosures. Some earthen walls were also restored, but part of them was built lower than the original in order to accommodate better viewing.

The Main Enclosure
The restored barrack at the Western 10th Enclosure
The earthen walls of the Western 10th Enclosure were restored, but part of them was intentionally built lower
The Kojo Enclosure

The town also carries out other businesses using the castle ruins. For instance, local primary school children learn about the castle in the school’s outdoor classes at the site. The children that visit this castle can make their own theory after reading the detailed information which is easy for visitors to understand.

Some explanation panels by the children are exhibited at the barrack

My Impression

I was very impressed by the explanation panels the local children made at the site. I think the contents of the panels are very useful for visitors as well as for local society. The children and other local people can know about the castle and its local history through this activity. Moreover, the children will be proud of their home town and be more willing to tell people in other areas about the castle when they get older. I also believe every castle has its own unique features because every castle was built under different times, regions and situations.

This is the explanation panel for the well
The ditch between at the Kojo Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is about 15 km away from Mima IC on the Matsuyama Expressway. The castle ruins offer a parking lot.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from the JR Matsumaru Station on the Yodo Line.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend traveling by plane or using an express bus.

That’s all. Thank you.
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