81.Matsuyama Castle Part1

Yoshiaki Kato devoted himself to the construction of this castle.

Location and History

Yoshiaki Kato builds Castle as his new Home Base

Matsuyama City in Ehime Prefecture is one of the most popular tourist spots in Japan, which is also known for attractions such as the Dogo Hot Spring. In fact, the area around the hot spring was the center of Iyo Province, the former Ehime Pref. until the Middle Ages. The Kono Clan governed the province by building Yuzuki Castle beside the spring. However, the clan declined during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi and Ieyasu Tokugawa. When the Tokugawa Shogunate was established by Ieyasu after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, it gave a large territory in Iyo Province to Yoshiaki Kato who distinguished in the battle.

The range of Matsuyama City and the location of the castle

The ruins of Yuzuki Castle

Yoshiaki was an excellent general who worked under Hideyoshi and Ieyasu, joining many battles including the invasion of Korea. He built the Matsuyama Castle on Katsuyama Mountain which is 132 meters high, using his knowledge about the modern technology and his own experience building castles. The situation was still unstable and it is also said that Yoshiaki quarreled with Takatora Todo who divided Iyo Provence with him. Yoshiaki completely devoted himself to the construction of the castle from 1602 to 1627 until he was transferred to Wakamatsu Castle in the Tohoku Region. Just after the launch of the construction, he renamed Katsuyama (which means Win Mountain) Matsuyama (which means Pine Mountain). For the Japanese at that time, the word Matsu or Pine was a lucky one which can be seen in other castles’ names like Wakamatsu, Matsumoto, and Matsusaka. This is the origin of the names of Matsuyama Castle and City.

The portrait of Yoshoaki Kato, owned by Fujisaka Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The relief map around the castle

The apparently restored Main Tower of Wakamatsu Castle Yoshiaki originally built

Strictly protected Mountain Part and Convenient Large Foot Part

The top area of Katsuyama Mountain was like a shape of a tongue which became the Main Enclosure. In addition, another enclosure called Hondan or the Central Compound was built for the Main Tower, on the highest point of the Main Enclosure. The style of the Main Tower is called Renritsu-siki or the Tower Grouping, which refers to the Large and Small Main Towers and turrets being connected by the Hall Turrets like a corridor. The first Large Main Tower was said to have five levels. The Second Enclosure was built at the foot of the mountain for the Main Hall for the lord. The enclosures mentioned above were all surrounded by high stone walls. The Main Route connecting the Second and Main Enclosures was built complexly to avoid enemies from attacking easily. Moreover, the route was surrounded on both sides by long-line stone walls called Nobori-Ishigaki or the Climbing Stone walls. This stone wall style was rare and introduced by the lords who joined the invasion of Korea, including Yoshiaki Kato. Finally, The Third Enclosure, which was the largest one in the castle, was built outside the Second Enclosure and surrounded by water moats for government offices and high-ranking warriors’ houses.

the Tower Grouping type Main Tower of Matsuyama Castle
Part of the Secret Picture of Kikaku Castle (another name of Matsuyama Castle) in 1864, from the signboard at the site
The Climbing Stone walls of Matsuyama Castle

After Yoshiaki was transferred in 1627, the Gamo Clan followed the castle construction, completing the Second Enclosure. The Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan followed the Gamo Clan in 1635 and continued the construction. It had been said the clan reduced the levels of the Main Tower from five to three for some reasons. According to the recent research, it was founded the Central Compound as the base of the tower was moved and renovated. It could be because the ground of the original compound was weak. It is possible that the first thing that the clan built was the three-tier main tower. The clan also completed the Third Enclosure by building another Main Hall in it in 1687.

The partially restored Second Enclosure of Matsuyama Castle
The present Third Enclosure of Matsuyama Castle

Restoring Main Tower and Trial during Meiji Restoration

Fortunately, no battle happened at this castle, however, other natural disasters hit the castle. In 1784, most of the buildings on the Central Compound including the Main Tower were burned down by a lightning fire. The Matsuyama Domain led by the Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan couldn’t afford rebuilding them. After a while, the domain somehow restore them in 1853 at the end of the Edo Period. The restored buildings are thought to have the same designs as the previous ones. That’s why the Main Tower of this castle is the newest Main Tower of the twelve remaining ones in Japan.

The remaining Main Tower of Matsuyama Castle was restored in 1853

The Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan originally used only Hisamatsu as their family name. However, the founder of the clan, Sadakatsu and that of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Ieyasu were brothers but with different fathers. For this reason, Sadakatsu was allowed to use the family name Matsudaira as a relative of the shogun. This had been fortune during the Edo Period, while unfortune during the Meiji Restoration when the shogunate was defeated. The clan had to support the shogunate and invade the territory of the Choshu Domain which would be a winner of the restoration. They feared the revenge of the Choshu which actually was coming to Matsuyama Castle and would destroy it. Then, the Tosa Domain led by the Yamanouchi Clan, which had a close relationship with Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan, saved it. The domain troops intentionally occupied the castle before the Choshu troops arrived to avoid the Choshu doing anything without permission.

The Main Tower of Matsuyama Castle, seen from the ruins of Yuzuki Castle

To be continued in “Matsuyama Castle Part2”

81.松山城 その1

加藤嘉明が心血を注いだ城

立地と歴史

加藤嘉明が新しい本拠地として築城

愛媛県松山市は日本有数の観光地で、道後温泉などの観光名所があることで知られています。実は道後温泉の周辺地は中世までは、愛媛県の前身、伊予国の中心地でした。河野氏が、温泉地の傍らに湯築城を築いてこの国を統治していました。しかし河野氏は、豊臣秀吉や徳川家康による天下統一事業の間に衰退しました。1600年の関ヶ原の戦いの後、家康によって徳川幕府が設立されますが、その戦いで活躍した加藤嘉明(かとうよしあき)が伊予国に大きな領地を与えられました。

松山市の範囲と城の位置

湯築城跡

嘉明は、秀吉と家康に仕えた優秀な武将で、朝鮮侵攻を含む多くの戦いに参陣しました。彼は、標高132mの勝山に松山城を築き、築城に関する最新の技術と彼の経験を活かしました。世間の状況はいまだ不安定であり、また伊予国を分け合っていた藤堂高虎との関係がよくなかったのです。嘉明は、1602年から東北地方の若松城に転封となる1627年までの期間、この城の建設に専念し、情熱を注ぎ込みました。城の建設が始まった直後に、彼は勝山を松山に名前を変えました。当時の日本語では(今もそうですが)「松」という語は縁起が(もしかして「勝」よりも)良かったようで、他の城の名前においても、若松城、松本城松坂城などに使われています。このことが、現在の松山城と松山市の名称の起源となります。

加藤嘉明肖像画、藤栄神社蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

城周辺の起伏地図

若松城の外観復元天守、オリジナルは加藤嘉明が築きました

厳重に守られた山上と広大な山麓

勝山の頂上部分は舌状になっていて、そこが本丸となりました。更には、本壇(ほんだん)と呼ばれるもう一つの曲輪が天守を建てるために、本丸の最高地点に作られました。天守の形式は連立式といい、大天守、小天守、櫓群が廊下のような多聞櫓によってつながっていました。初代の大天守は5層であったと言われています。二の丸は山の麓に築かれ、そこには領主の御殿が建てられました。上記の曲輪群は全て高石垣に囲まれていました。二の丸から本丸に通じる大手道は複雑に作られ、敵が容易に攻撃できないようになっていました。その上に、大手道は両側を登り石垣と呼ばれる長大な石垣によって囲まれていました。この形式の石垣は稀であり、加藤嘉明を含む朝鮮侵攻に参加した大名たちによって持ち込まれました。三の丸は城では最大の曲輪で、二の丸の外側に築かれ、水堀によって囲まれていました。政庁や上級クラス武士の屋敷地として使われました。

松山城の連立天守
「亀郭城(松山城の別名)秘図」部分、1864年、現地説明板より
松山城の登り石垣

1627年に嘉明が移って行った後、蒲生氏が城の建設を引き継ぎ、二の丸を完成させました。1635年には久松松平氏が蒲生氏から代わりましたが、まだ工事は続きました。久松松平氏は何らかの理由で、天守を5層から3層に減らして改築したと言われてきました。最近の調査によると、天守が立っていた本壇が移動し、大幅に改築されていたことがわかりました。もともと本壇があった場所の地盤が軟弱だったことが考えられます。彼らが建てた天守が初代で、かつ最初から3層だったという可能性もあります。また、1687年にはもう一つ御殿を三の丸に建設し、これをもって工事は完了しました。

一部復元されている松山城二の丸
現在の松山城三の丸

天守の再建と幕末の試練

幸いに、この城では戦いは起こりませんでした。しかし、自然災害が城を襲いました。1784年、落雷による火災で天守を含む本壇のほとんどの建物が焼け落ちてしまいました。久松松平氏が治めていた松山藩には、すぐに再建する余裕はありませんでした。その後江戸時代末期の1853年になってやっと再建することができました。再建された建物群は、以前と同じデザインであったと考えられます。そのため、現存しているこの城の天守は、日本の現存12天守の中では最も新しいものとなります。

1853年に再建された松山城現存天守

久松松平氏はもともとその苗字を久松と名乗っていました。しかし、久松松平氏の始祖、定勝(さだかつ)と徳川幕府の始祖の家康とは、父違いの兄弟でした(家康の母親が定勝の父親の俊勝(としかつ)の後妻となったため)。このため、定勝は将軍家の親族としての苗字である松平を使うことを許されたのです。このことは江戸時代の間は名誉なことでしたが、幕府が倒された明治維新のときには不幸の種となりました。久松松平氏は幕府を助け、明治維新の勝者となった長州藩の領土に攻め込んでいたのです。彼らは長州藩からの報復を恐れ、長州藩兵が実際に松山城の方に進軍し、城が破壊される恐れが生じました。そこで、久松松平氏と親密であった山内氏が治めていた土佐藩が救いの手を差し伸べました。土佐藩兵は、長州藩兵が到着する前に意図的に松山城を占拠し、許可なしには長州が何もできないよう取り計らったのです。

湯築城跡から見た松山城天守

「松山城その2」に続きます。

79.Imabari Castle Part3

This castle is beautiful and firmly built.

Features

Walking outside Inner Moat after getting out of Back Gate

The castle park also has the back gate called Yamazato-mon which was restored in 1990. To get out of the castle area, you have to go down a few stone steps, pass another Korai-mon style gate, and go across a narrow earthen bridge. The earthen bridge was originally wooden made which would have been fallen if a battle happened. The area around the gate is sunken, on the other hand, the area over the bridge extends upward.

The aerial photo around the castle

Yamazato-mon Gate
Seeing Yamazato-Yagura Turret connecting the gate from outside of the Inner Moat
The stone steps below Yamazato-mon Gate
The Korai-mon style gate and the earthen bridge
The area over the bridge extends upward

After you go out of the park, you can try walking around the Inner Moat. The moat is about 50 to 70m wide and the stone walls inside are 9 to 13m tall. They look like a floating fortress!

The perimeter of the Main Enclosure
The castle looks as if it is floating
Seeing the castle from the Second Enclosure side

Imabari Port, Source of Inner Moat

After looking around, you can check out how the sea water gets inside the Inner Moat of the castle. You can also see the water reservoir near the main entrance of the park. If you go along the waterway towards the source, you will reach the Imabari Port which was the castle port. It was located at the edge of the Middle Moat in the past. Because of that source, the surface level of the Inner Moat is changing depending on the tide.

The water reservoir at the Inner Moat side
The waterway for the Inner Moat
Imabari Port
The water reservoir at Imabari Port side

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Imabari Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were eventually demolished or burned. The Main Enclosure was turned into the Fukiage Shrine in 1872 before the Fukiage Park was established including the Second Enclosure in 1914. That’s why the main portion of the castle inside the Inner Moat still remains, while the outside of the moat was all turned into the city area. Since the castle ruins were designated as a Prefectural Historic Site of Ehime in 1953, Imabari City has been developing and restoring them as a historical park as mentioned above.

The main portion of the castle as the park
Bugu-Yagura Turret, the other restored turret

My Impression

After walking around the Inner Moat to see the great view of the moat and the high stone walls, I noticed Imabari Castle was quite practical. Why did Takatora Todo make the Inner Moat around 50m wide and the stone walls around 10m high? I speculate that the defenders on the stone walls were able to hit the attackers outside the Inner Moat effectively by guns and arrows. On the other hand, the guns and arrows from the attackers could not be useful. I think Takatora built this castle that way. Imabari Castle was beautiful as well as so strong.

The height of the stone walls and the width of the Inner Moat may have been the best to protect the castle
A view of the castle from the Imitation Main Tower

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about 15 minutes from Imabari-Kita IC on the Nishi-Seto Expressway or about 20 minutes from Imabari-Yunoura IC on the Imabari-Komatsu Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the main entrance of the park.
By public transportation, you can take the Setouchi Bus bound for Imabari-Eigyosho from Imabari Station and get off at the Imabari-jo-mae bus stop or it takes about 30 minutes on foot from the station to get there.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Imabari Station: I recommend traveling by plane and when you get there you can take the bus or train to get to Imabari station.

The parking lot beside the main entrance of the park

That’s all. Thank you.
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