high stone walls – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

187.Fukue Castle Part2

If you want to visit Fukue Island where Fukue Castle Ruins are located, you need to take a ship or a plane. The ruins are closer to Fukue Port than Fukue Airport, which only about 300m away from the port. If you walk from the port to the ruins in the west, you will see the eastern stone walls and the moats in the front. However, the moats had originally been a seashore, and were reclaimed around. That’s why the moats are still filled with the sea water which is controlled by the tide

Features

Walking around Front of Castle

If you want to visit Fukue Island where Fukue Castle Ruins are located, you wil need to take a ship or a plane. The ruins are closer to Fukue Port than Fukue Airport, which is only about 300m away from the port. If you walk from the port to the ruins in the west, you will see the eastern stone walls and the moats in the front. However, the moats had originally been the frontline of the seashore, and where the new artificial land is currently located. That’s why the moats are still filled with the sea water which is controlled by the tide.

The aerial photo around the castle (Google Map)

The stone walls at the eastern side of the castle

The stone walls are part of the second enclosure, which faced the sea as the front line of the castle. Its corner on the left is one of the canon ruins. The stone walls were basically piled using basalt natural stones which had been produced by Onidake Mountain of the island. Meanwhile, the corners of the stone walls were piled using precisely processed stones. This was because the corners mainly had to support the weight of the walls. If you walk to the north along the moats, you will also see the water gate which was used for ships.

A part being piled using basalt natural stones

A corner being piled using precisely processed stones

Over the moats, you will eventually arrive at the ruins of the main gate which is the entrance of the northern enclosure. The gate also faced the sea in the front.
The stone walls of the gate were piled up using precisely processed stones, as it was also the front gate. It had a turret building on it as well. The enclosure now has the Goto Kanko Historical Museum which looks like a Main Tower, where you can learn the history and culture of Goto Islands.

Going to the Back of Castle

If you go to the back of the castle in the west, from the northern enclosure, you will see the main enclosure and the inner moat. The main enclosure is now used as a high school. That’s why visitors can only look around it. The stone walls of the enclosure have something like a gap, which was actually one of the entrances where the bridge over the moat used to be. If you go further, you need to turn to the right rear and will walk along the long stone walls of the northern enclosure. There is also one of the canon base ruins nearby.

The stone walls of the main enclosure and the inner moat

The stone walls of the northern enclosure

The cannon base ruins seen from the city area

It would be better to exit Fukue Culture Hall, which uses the former castle’s land, in order to see the castle site more. If you go on the city area to the west, you will see the castle’s stone walls and the moat in front of them again. In fact, the moat is original, and does not originate from the sea, and is in the westernmost part of the castle. The stone bridge over the moat, and gate behind are original as well, which have been maintained for a long time. The gate was used as the back gate of the castle. The inside is the remaining retreat of the founder of the castle, Moriakira Goto. This site is open to the public, called “Goto Garden”. However, it sometimes has irregular holidays which may confuse visitors. Therefore, I recommend calling the management office in advance to confirm its business days, if you really want to see it.

The western side of the castle still has its original moat, bridge and gate

The entrance of Goto Garden, it was closed when I visited

Overall, the stone walls remain well even though most of the sea area around the castle has been reclaimed. The other remaining castle’s gate is used as the entrance of the high school.

The stone walls of the southern side of the castle, the road on the left was the sea in the past

The other remaining gate where high school students pass every weekday

Related Historical Sites

One of the related sites to Fukue Castle is Fukue Samurai Residence Street, which was the residential area of middle-class warriors of the Fukue Domain. It consists of the remaining gates and walls for the residences, which are about 400m long. The walls resemble those of Fukue Castle, but some points are different. There are rough stones lazily piled up, called “kobore-ishi” (meaning “spilling stones”), on the walls. There are also semi-circular stones, called “waki-ishi” (meaning “side stones”), at the edges of the walls. The latter stones keep the former stones on the walls. This is a unique system for the whole country. One theory suggests that invaders over the walls would inform the host by spilling the stones. The other theory says that the host would counterattack the invaders by throwing the stones.

Most of the area behind the gates and walls has become modern residences. However, the street still looks like what it was, with the stone pavements.

There seems to be a park behind the gate

There seems to be an apartment house behind the gate

This street has stone pavement which makes it old-fashioned

Another related site is Jotobana Ruins near Fukue Port. It was originally built as a lighthouse and the banks to protect the castle construction site from the big waves. Its only remaining item is the lighthouse, so you need to access it by crossing the modern pier. It was said that the site was built by the same craftsman group as those for the stone walls of the castle. In addition, originally, this structure was built alongside the castle, but in fact it was built even before the start of the castle construction. That meant the shogunate might have given an unofficial permission to the castle’s lord back then.

You can access the ruins through the pier

If you get close to the stone walls of the lighthouse ruins, you will see they look just like those of the castle. Such a historical site would make us interested in the history of the castle more and more.

Is this Extra Edition?

If you walk around the Fukue area, you will often see Onidake Mountain, a symbolic mountain of Fukue Island.

Onidake Mountain, seen from the Jotobana Ruins

The mountain is 315m above sea level. It is classified as a volcano mountain but there have been no records of its eruptions in human history. Before that, it erupted and eventually made lava coast in the southeastern part of the island. The eruption made the top of the mountain look like a mortar, academically called a scoria hill. People burn off a field of the mountain every several years; the mountain is covered with green grass.

Top of the mountain, seen from the mid slope

The shape of the mountain with green grass is beautiful

In fact, the mountain is related to the Fukue Domain and Fukue Castle. It was one of the 11 lookout posts the domain built on the islands, in order to monitor foreign ships. You will realize it is a good place for the lookout where you can look over the sea and the castle site.

A view of the Fukue city area including Fukue Castle from the top

A view of the opposite side of the castle from the top

There is also the lava coast the mountain created at the opposite side. The coast provided the natural stones to the castle to build its stone walls. The castle’s history comes with the natural environment of the island.

My Impression

I honestly say that I thought it would be enough to have a day trip just to visit Fukue Castle Ruins. That’s why I originally bought a return ticket using ships to and from Nagasaki Port in one day. However, when I got there, I got interested in many other things. As a result, I unfortunately didn’t have enough time to see everything including the lava coast and a church. Therefore, I recommend staying overnight if you visit Fukue Island.

I had to return to Nanasaki in no time at all

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Fukue Castle Part1”

186.Kaneda Castle Patr1

Kaneda Castle was one of the ancient mountain castles in western Japan. They were built by the Imperial Court after the Battle of Baekgang, Korea in 663. Kaneda Castle was at the foremost line against possible invasions from the alliance of Tang and Silla. This was because it was located in Tsushima Island, only about 50km away from Korea.

Location and History

One of Ancient Maintain Castles

Kaneda Castle was one of the ancient mountain castles in western Japan. They were built by the Imperial Court after the Battle of Baekgang, Korea in 663. Japan tried to help Baekje, but was beaten by the Tang and Silla alliance. Emperor Tenchi was scared of invasions from the alliance, so he ordered these castles’ constructions. Kaneda Castle was at the foremost line against the alliance because it was located in Tsushima Island, only about 50km away from Korea.

The locations of the major ancient mountain castles

The map about the Battle of Baekgang (licensed by Samhanin via Wikimedia Commons)

These castles are also called Korean style mountain castles which were established in Korea and brought to Japan with the instructions from the refugees from Baekje. There had been many battles in ancient Korea (part of present day North and South Korea) due to invasions from China and the internal conflict with three countries, Baekje, Silla and Goguryeo. The style involves surrounding the whole mountain by stone walls or earthen walls, which was very different from that of Japanese castles that would be later established. If people in Korea at that time were attacked by enemies, they would escape to their mountain castle, wait for the enemies’ supply to run out and counterattack the enemies. This style was applied to Japan to immediately prepare for possible invasions from the alliance.

The diorama of Kaneda Castle Ruins, exhibited by the sightseeing information center Fureaidokoro Tsushima

Stone Walls mostly surround Mountain

The Imperial Court built Mizuki in 664 as the 1st ancient mountain castle. After that, it also built Ono and Kii Castles in 665, and then, Takayasu, Yashima and Kaneda Castles in 667, according to Nihon-shoki, the oldest official chronicles of Japan. It is thought that nearly 30 ancient mountain castles, including recorded and non-recorded ones, were built along the estimated routes of the invasions around the northern Kyushu Region and Seto Inland Sea. The Imperial Court also drafted soldiers from eastern Japan, who would be called Sakimori, and sent them to the northern Kyushu Region to protect and monitor this area. The fire-signal system was also developed in the region to rapidly inform the signs of what happened.

Kaneda Castle was built on Joyama Mountain facing Aso Bay in the central part of Tsushima Island. The castle was about 15km away to the north from the provincial capital of Tsushima, near the current Izuhara Port. This was probably because the usage of the castle would follow that of the mountain castles in Korea like a shelter. Its perimeter was about 2.2km, which was mostly covered with stone walls, in contrast to other ancient mountain castles like Ki-no-jo, mostly surrounded by earthen walls. The northern and western sides of the castle were along the steep ridges of the mountain, which were naturally very defensive. On the other hand, the southern side faced the valley which would be the entrance to the castle and the eastern side was beside the bay. That’s why several gates were built and the stone walls were higher on these sides. It is thought that there were no office buildings and no warehouses, but only buildings like barracks the Sakimori soldiers used inside the castle, according to the results of excavations.

The aerial photo around the castle

The stone walls of Kaneda Castle (the southeast stone fortress)

The relief map around the castle

Castle is shortly abandoned because of Stable Diplomatic Relations

Meanwhile, the diplomatic negotiations with foreign countries continued. For, example, Tang and Goguryeo started to fight with each other in 666. Both countries asked Japan for help. While Emperor Tenchi moved the capital from Asuka in Nara to Otsu, more interior than Asuka in 667 and made the first national census in 670 probably to prepare for the next war. The tension between Japan and Tang reached its peak after Tang defeated Goguryeo in 668. It is said that Tang actually planned to invade Japan then. However, the plan was canceled as Tang and Silla battled each other in 670. The battle resulted in Silla repelling Tang and the unification of Korea Peninsula in 676. The next emperor, Tenmu, also made friendly relations with Silla, which meant the serious threat to Japan had gone.

The ruins of the imperial palace of Otsu (*licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons)*

As a result, there would be no need for maintaining all the ancient mountain castles. Many of them including Kaneda Castle were repaired or improved by the end of the 7th Century. However, it is thought that Kaneda Castle was abandoned at the beginning of the 8th Century. Manyoshu, the oldest anthology of Japan, which was first published in the late 8th Century, contains a Tanka poem created by a Sakimori soldier who was in charge of Tsushima Island. Interestingly, this Tanka was published nearly a century after the castle was active. The life of this great castle was only 30 to 40 years.

The ruins of Kaneda Castle (the first gate)

To be continued in “Kaneda Castle Part2”

181.Kokura Castle Part1

The top floor of the Main Tower hanged out, which was called Western Style. This was because its balcony and handrails were covered by black outer walls to prevent damage from bad weather and strong wind.

Location and History

Castle is built as Bridgehead in Kyushu

Kokura Castle is located in the Kokura area of Kitakyushu City at the northern edge of the Kyushu Region. For example, if you visit the region using a Shinkansen super express, the first station will be Kokura Station near the castle. The area was more well known as the entrance of the region, which had Kokura Port facing the Kanmon Strait, sandwiched by Kyushu Island and the main island of Japan. That’s why warlords, who wanted to invade the region from the mainland, tried to build a bridgehead in this area. Certain records say that Motonari Mori, who was a great warlord of the Chugoku Region, built it in 1569, which would be the former Kokura Castle. After the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the region in 1587, he gave the castle to his trusted vassal, Katsunobu Mori. However, Katsunobui was eventually fired because he was against Ieyasu Tokugawa, who would become the next ruler, in the decisive battle in 1600.

The range of Buzen Province and the location of the castle

Tadaoki Hosokawa renovates Castle

Instead, Tadaoki Hosokawa (also known as Sansai after his retirement), who had greatly supported Ieyasu in the battle, was assigned as the lord of Buzen Provence including the Kokura area and would be the founder of the Kokura Domain. He first lived in Nakatsu Castle, which the former lord of the castle, the Kuroda Clan had built, but soon started to renovate the castle in Kokura in 1602 as his new home, which would be what we call Kokura Castle.

The portrait of Tadaoki Hosokawa, owned by Eisei Bunko Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The former castle and the port was along the large estuary of Murasaki River, like a bay, when Tadaoki greatly developed the area. The area was broadly separated into the Western and Eastern Enclosures, binding the river. The Western Enclosure was also divided by water moats into smaller sub enclosures, such as the Main Enclosure, for the lord and warriors. The Eastern Enclosure became the castle town for people like merchants, craftsmen and monks. Furthermore, the whole area was surrounded by other natural or artificial rivers as the outermost moat whose perimeter was about 8km. Tadaoki thought if a large enemy force attacked the castle, he would flood the enemy by breaking the banks of the rivers.

the whole Kokura Castle drawn in “the illustration of Kokura Samurai residences”, from the signboard at the site, adding the English comments

Sunatsu River, the western part of the outermost moat

Characteristic Main Tower

The main portion of the castle was surrounded by high stone walls. In particular, the stone wall base for the Main Tower was built at the northeastern corner of the Main Enclosure and was 18.8m high. The Main Tower itself was 22.8m high, so 41.6m in total. The tower had 4 levels and 5 floors inside because they were no roofs between the fourth and fifth floors. Also, the existing roofs were very simple without any decorations except for the top. It is a method called Soto-siki (meaning multi-storied type). This method made the builders efficient and made the tower easier to protect. The defenders would actually look out over the surronding area and counterattack the enemies at any direction from the tower. In addition, the tower had one more feature called Nanban-zukuri (meaning Western Style) or Kara-zukuri (the Chinese Style). It refers to some of the levels or floors hanging out over the other levels of the tower. In the case of Kokura Castle, it was the top floor because its balcony and handrails were covered by black outer walls to prevent damage from bad weather and strong wind. This Kokura style would be later emulated by other castles like Tsuyama and Takamatsu Castles.

The restored image by CG of the main portion of Kokura Castle, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

The miniature model of the original Main Tower of Kokura Castle, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

The old photo of Tsuyama Castle including its Main Tower, in the early Meiji Period, taken by Kunitada Matsudaira (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The old photo of the Main Tower of Takamatsu Castle

Prosperity and Destruction of Ogasawara Clan

The castle and the domain were followed by Tadazame Ogasawara Ogasawara in 1632 after the Hosokawa Clan was transferred to Kumamoto Castle of the Kumamoto Domain. The Ogasawara Clan was a hereditary feudal lord family of the Tokugawa Shogunate, so it was expected to monitor non-hereditary feudal domains in the Kyushu Region. While the government of the Kokura Domain became stable, its castle town commercially prospered, especially around Tokiwa Bridge which connected the Western and Eastern Enclosures over the Murasaki River. The bridge was also the starting point of the Nagasaki Road where many passengers came and went between the main land and the region. the lords in the region and the Korean Envoys also used the road when they went to Edo.

The portrait of Tadazane Ogasawara, owned by Fukuju-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The diorama of the town around Tokiwa Bridge, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

The current Tokiwa Bridge, it was restored using wooden materials

The figures of the Korean Envoys, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

Meanwhile, a bad sign for the castle occurred in 1837. The Main Tower was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire though it had survived through some lightning strikes. The tower was not rebuilt by the domain after that. Next, a severe event happened to the castle at the end of the Edo Period. The Choshu Domain at the edge of the mainland over the Kanmon Strait rebelled against the shogunate twice. The Second Conquest of Choshu was planned by the shogunate in 1866. The shogunate ordered the Kokura Domain and its allies to attack the Choshu through the Kokura Route, one of the four battlefields.

A Kawaraban newspaper called the scenes of the Battle of Kokura in Kyushu, exhibited by Cultural Heritage Online

The battles on the Kokura Route started in June. Against all odds, the Choshu troops landed on the Kokura area and counterattacked the shogunate side instead. Moreover, all the allies withdrew after they heard about the death of the shogun, Iemochi Tokugawa, by illness on the 20th of July. The Kokura troops, which were left alone, finally fired at the castle by themselves on the 1st of Aug and continued to fight against the Choshu like a guerrilla army. However, the fall of the castle and the Choshu capturing it became a symbol of the shogunate’s big failure in the battles which would accelerate its destruction and the Meiji Restoration by the New Government including the Choshu Domain.

To be continued in “Kokura Castle Part2”