The attractions of the Northern Enclosure few people visit
Features
Northern Enclosure remains destroyed
The real highlight of the original Iwakuni Castle is, in fact, the Northern Enclosure which few people visit. You can exit the Main Enclosure through the path beside the stone wall base. Then, you can pass the route across the large dry moat between the Main and Northern Enclosures. This was built by the founder, Hiroie Kikkawa to protect the Main Enclosure from sudden attacks of enemies.
The map around the mountain part
The path beside the stone wall baseThe dry moat between the Main and Northern EnclosuresThe earthen bridge across the dry moat
The inside of the Northern Enclosure is a square now, but if you climb down from it and walk around outside of it carefully, you may be surprised to see what you find. Lots of large stones collapsed and lie around the western side. On the other hand, its stone walls are still intact around the eastern side. This is because of how the Kikkawa Clan destroyed the mountain part of the castle. The clan at first destroy only the buildings of it, however, after the Shimabara Rebellion in 1638, the shogunate ordered the lords in western Japan to destroy unused castles completely. The clan had to do it by destroying part of the stone walls, but left the rest of them probably to protect the people living in that area.
The Northern EnclosureAround the western side of the Northern EnclosureAround the eastern side of the Northern Enclosure
Foot Area
The former residence at the foot is still surrounded by the Inner Moat, which is now the Kikko Park. Kikko Shine was moved into the park. The main buildings of the shrine are an Important Cultural Property. A Ema-do building (where votive picture tablets are hung) called Kinunkaku stands like a turret at a corner, which was built when the park was established.
The map around the foot area
The Kikko ParkThe main buildings of Kikko ShineKinunkaku looking like a turret
Some original warriors’ houses remain around the area where you can enjoy walking, seeing, and relaxing.
The remaining Mekata Clan’s residence as an Important Cultural Property
My Impression
I think that Hiroie Kikkawa was a TrulyValiant who could make a decision of not fighting. Many of the Mori Clan at that time and some history fans today have complained that the clan could be a ruler if Hiroie fought in the Sekigahara Battle like I used to imagine. However, it must have been a gamble. The Mori Clan actually survives until today thanks to Hiroie’s decision. He was a far-sighted excellent leader. Iwakuni Castle also survives by practically responding to demands of society like Hiroie’s way of life. That’s why the castle site still prospers with Kintaikyo Bridge.
It may be better to use the wide path in the western part of the castle when you returnA Large Well called Otsurii in the partThe stone walls in the western part seemed to be all demolishedThe eastern part still has great stone walls like ones below the Main Enclosure in the photo above
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car, it is about 20 minutes from Iwakuni IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There are several parking lots around. By public transportation, you can take a bus bound for Kintaikyo from Iwakuni Station or Shin-Iwakuni Station and get off at the Kintaikyo bus center. From Tokyo or Osaka to Iwakuni Station: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Hiroshima Station. From Tokyo or Osaka to Shin-Iwakuni Station: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express.
Iwakuni is known for its beautiful scenery from Kintaikyo bridge which has five magnificent wooden arches. The bridge over Nishikigawa River also has a good background of a mountain with the Main Tower of Iwakuni Castle. Visitors may think they all remain as they were, however, the castle has many episodes, in fact, and had a tough life.
Kintaikyo bridge with the background of Iwakuni Castle on the mountain
Hiroie Kikkawa was the founder of the castle, who also was a senior vassal and relative of the Mori Clan. The clan governed most of the Chugoku Region with an earning of 1.2 million koku of rice at the end of the 16th Century. However, after the ruler of Japan, Hideyoshi Toyotomi died in 1598, the situation became unstable. Many lords tried to rely on Ieyasu Tokugawa, the largest one in eastern Japan with 2.5 million koku as the next ruler, while others including Mitsunari Ishida still supported the Toyotomi Clan. Mitsunari tried to make the lord of the Mori Clan, Terumoto Mori as their leader because the clan was the largest lord in western Japan. The opinions inside the clan were divided. One is to support Mitsunari and become the next ruler instead of Ieyasu, mainly insisted by Ekei Ankokuji, the other is to support Ieyasu to maintain their territory, objected by Hiroie.
The portrait of Hiroie Kikkawa, owned by Historiographical Institute the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The portrait of Terumoto Mori, owned by the Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
When the Battle of Sekigahara happened in 1600, Terumoto became the head of the West Quad which was actually led by Mitsunari, because being a ruler was attractive to him. Hiroie was a cool-headed commander who knew his master couldn’t take over the East Quad led by Ieyasu. Therefore, he contacted Ieyasu secretly and promised that his troops would not do anything in the battle in exchange for maintaining the Mori’s territory. As a result, Ieyasu defeated Mitsunari. However, after the battle, Ieyasu found out the evidence that Terumoto had wanted to be a ruler. Ieyasu decided to take all the Mori’s territory away from Terumoto and give two provinces (Nagato and Suo) of it to Hiroie. Hiroie urged Ieyasu to give the provinces to Terumoto instead of him. In the end, Mori’s territory was formally reduced from a worth of 1.2 million koku to only 370 thousand koku of the two provinces, known as the Choshu Domain.
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The portrait of Mitsunari Ishida, owned by Hajime Sugiyama (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Iwakuni Castle is built in Hiroie’s new territory
Hiroie had to stand in a difficult position. He was actually the hero of the Mori Clan, but many members of it thought he was a destroyer. He was finally given by the clan a small territory with 30 thousand koku, which was the eastern edge of the Choshu Domain. Hiroie started to build a new castle as his home base in 1601, which would be called Iwakuni Castle. He first built his residence called Odoi beside Nishikigawa River which could be the natural Outer Moat. The residence was also surrounded by the artificial Inner Moat. After that he developed the mountain part of the castle mainly by building the Northern, Main and Second Enclosures on the ridge from the north to the south. They were all surrounded by stone walls and the Main Enclosure had the four-level Main Tower. The castle was completed in 1608.
The range or the Choshu Domain and the location of the castle
The relief map around the castle
Hiroie’s hard decision to destroy Mountain part
However, another difficulty was coming to Hiroie after the Tokugawa Shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan in 1615. The Tokugawa Shogunate ordered all the lords in Japan to destroy all the castles except for one castle where the lord lived by issuing the Law of One Castle per Province in the same year. The shogunate tried to prevent any other lords from rebelling based on many strong castles. According to this law, Iwakuni Castle could survive because the castle could be the only one castle in Suo Province and the shogunate still considered Hiroie’s Kikkawa Clan as an independent lord. However, the Mori Clan didn’t allow it as they thought that the Kikkawa Clan was just a retainer of them, not an independent lord. The controversial relation between Hiroie and the Mori Clan since the Sekigahara Battle remained. Hiroie had to choose to destroy the castle considering the future relationship with the Mori Clan.
Intentionally broken stone walls on the mountain
The mountain part was actually destroyed but the residence beside the river survived for living. It was formally called Iwakuni Encampment, not Castle until the end of the Edo Period. Kintaikyo Bridge was first built in 1673 by the third lord of the clan, Hiroyoshi Kikkawa to connect his residence with the castle town which had been built at the opposite side of the river. This bridge could be seen as a symbol of the peace at that time.
The ruins of the Odoi residence at the foot”Kintaikyo bridge in Suo Province” from the series “Unusual Views of Celebrated Bridges in the Provinces” attributed to Hokusai Katsushika in the Edo Period (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
この城には２つの天守が並び立っていました。
Two main towers stood in a row at the castle.
立地と歴史～Location and History
海に面した城～A castle facing the sea
米子市は、中国地方の鳥取県西部にあり、ゆったりした雰囲気を感じる所です。戦国時代には中国地方のほとんどを毛利氏が支配していました。その一族である吉川広家は、天下人の豊臣秀吉に海の近くに新しい城を築くよう命じられ、それは１５９２年の秀吉の朝鮮侵攻の補給基地の役割がありました。この辺りは朝鮮に近かったからです。それが米子城でした。 Yonago City has a relaxed atmosphere, located in the western part of Tottori Prefecture, Chugoku Region. In the “Sengoku”, or Warring States Period, the Mori clan governed most of this region. Its relative Hiroie Kikkawa was ordered to build a new castle near the sea by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi as a supply base for Hideyoshi’s invasion of Korea in 1592. Because the area is close to Korea. That was Yonago Castle.
城の位置～The location of the castle
この城は、湊山と呼ばれる９０ｍの高さの山の上に築かれました。城の背後はちょうど中海に面しており、港として使われていました。初期の城に関する詳細は不明なのですが、頂上には４階の天守がありました。 The castle was built on a 90 m mountain called Minato-yama. The back of the castle just faced Nakaumi Lake, and was used as a port. The details regardomg the first castle are uncertain, but there was a four-story main tower or Tenshu on the top.
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
２つの天守が並ぶ～Two Main towers stands
徳川幕府が設立された後は、１６００年に米子城と米子藩の領主として、中村一忠が配置されました。一忠は城と城下町の拡張を続け、完成させました。彼はまた、新しく元あった天守より大きな５階の天守を築きました。その当時、大きな天守を築くことが大名たちの間でブームとなっていました。民衆に権威を示すためです。既に古い天守があった場合には、大抵は置き換えられました。 After the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, they placed Kazutada Nakamura as the lord of Yonago Castle and the Yonago feudal Domain in 1600. He continued to improve and complete the castle along with the castle town. He also built a new five-story Tenshu that was larger than the old one. At that time, building large Tenshu was a boom for lords, as they tried to show their authority to people. If there was already an old Tenshu, it was often replaced with the new one.
中村一忠の彫像、観應寺蔵～The statue of Kazutada Nakamura, owned by Kannouji Temple（licensed by Reggaeman via Wikimedia Commons）
しかし、米子城の場合は、元あった４階の天守は残され、単に名前が副天守または四階櫓と変えられただけでした。つまりそれ以来、２つの天守が並び立っていたのです。何と勇壮な姿だったことでしょう。 However, in the case of Yonago Castle, the old four-story Tenshu remained and was just renamed the Sub Main Tower or the Four-Story Turret. That meant two Tenshu were standing in a row since then. They must have looked so great!
米子市立山陰歴史館にあるツイン天守の模型～A miniature model of twin main towers at Yonago municipal historical museum
鳥取藩の所有となる～Tottori feudal Domain owns
１６０９年、一忠は若くして亡くなり、彼には後継ぎとなる子どもがいなかったため、改易となってしまいました。最終的には米子は池田氏による鳥取藩に属することになります。池田氏は一時、当時の本拠地である鳥取城から、米子城に移り、ここを新本拠地にすることを検討しました。それだけ米子城が魅力的だったのですが、結局は中止になりました。結果、鳥取藩の家老である荒尾氏が米子城とその城下町を江戸時代いっぱい統治しました。 In 1609, Kazutada died young, then his clan was disbanded because he didn’t have children or successors. Lastly the Yonago area belonged to the Tottori feudal Domain owned by the Ikeda clan. The clan once considered Yonago Castle as their new home base by moving from their current home base, Tottori Castle. Yonago Castle was attractive to them, but the plan was canceled. Finally, the Arao clan, chief retainer of Tottori Domain governed Yonago Castle and the castle town until the end of the Edo Period.
米子城古図、鳥取県立博物館蔵～The old map of Yonago Castle, owned by Tottori Prefectural Museum（米子市 Website より引用）
特徴～Features
城周辺の地図～The map aroud the castle
頂上へ上る～Climbing up to the top
現在、米子城の城跡は湊山公園として残っています。基礎の上に石垣がありますが、現存する建物はありません。城を訪れる人は通常は城の正門であった大手門跡から頂上の方に上っていきます。他にもいくつか登り口があります。 Now, the ruins of Yonago Castle remain as Minato-yama Park. There are stone walls on their foundation, but with no remaining buildings. Visitors can usually climb up to the top from the ruins of the Main Gate or Ote-mon which was the front entrance of the castle. There are also several trails to climb.
大手門跡～The ruins of the Main Gate向こうに見える長屋門は他から移されてきました～The long house style gate over there was moved from another place.
山はそれ程高くありませんので、１５分か２０分くらいあれば頂にある城の中心地に到達できます。 The mountain is not so high, so you can reach the center of the castle at the peak in around 15 to 20 minutes.
山頂への山道～A trail to the top
２つの天守台～The two stone wall bases for Tenshu
そこには２つの天守のための天守台石垣があります。新しい天守用の方は古い石を使い、三段積みの形式となっています。 There are stone wall bases for two Tenshu. The one for the new Tenshu has a three-layer style using older stones.
２つの天守台～The two stone wall bases for Tenshu新しい天守用の三段積み石垣～The three-layer style stone walls for the new Tenshu
一方、古い天守（副天守）用には新しい石を使い、一層積みとなっています。これは、江戸時代後期に古い天守が大改装されたからです。この時、天守台が置き換えられたと言います。 On the other hand, the one for the old Tenshu (Sub Main Tower) has a single-layer style using newer stones. This is because the old Tenshu was renovated in the late Edo Period. It is said its base was replaced then.
古い天守用の一層積み石垣～The single layer style stone walls for the old Tenshu
本丸とその他の曲輪～Main and other enclosures
鉄門と呼ばれる正門跡を通り過ぎると、本丸に入っていきます。 Going through the front gate ruins called Kurogane-mon, you will enter the Main enclosure or “Honmaru”.
鉄門跡～The front gate ruins
この曲輪からは、城を囲む市街地、海そして山の素晴らしい景色を堪能できます。但し、周りに柵がありませんので、足元お気を付けてください。 From the enclosure, you can get a great view of the surrounding area such as the city, the sea and mountains, but watch your steps, because there are no fences.
本丸の眺め～A view of the Honmaru本丸からの眺め～A view from the Honmaru足元にお気をつけください～Watch your step
本丸には水手門という裏門もあり、かつては港につながっていました。 Honmaru also has the back gate ruins called Mizunote-mon which led to the port in the past.
水手門跡～The back gate ruinsかつて港だった場所～There was the port in the past
城には、他にも山麓に二の丸があり、内膳丸というのもありました。内膳丸は山の中腹なり、見張りや連絡のために使われました。最近の発掘調査により、かつてはこの曲輪から本丸にまっすぐ通じる石垣でできた通路があり、登り石垣と呼ばれました。歴史家は、朝鮮侵攻のときに日本軍が似たような仕組みを作ったことから、これは吉川氏がその時の経験を基に作ったのではないかと考えています。 The castle had other enclosures like the Second enclosure or “Ninomaru” on the foot and “Naizen-maru” enclosure. Naizen-maru is on the midslope and was used for observation and connection. A recent excavation found that this was the direct route made with stone walls called Nobori-Ishigaki from this enclosure to Honmaru in the past. Historians say it might have been built by Kikkawa from the experience of the invasion of Korea where Japanese warriors built similar systems.
内膳丸～Naizen-maru enclosure内膳丸から本丸を見上げる～Looking up Honmaru from Naizen-maru
その後～Later History
明治維新後、米子城は廃城となり、元藩士に無償で譲渡されました。しかしながら、城をそのまま維持するは大変困難でした。すべての城の建物は、廃材として売られていきました。１９３３年、米子市が城跡を取得し、しばらくして湊山公園として整備しました。２００６年に城跡は国の史跡に指定されました。それ以来、発掘調査が進められています。 After the Meiji Restoration, Yonago Castle was abolished and assigned to former warriors for free. However, it was too difficult for them to keep the castle as it had been. They had to sell all of the buildings in the castle as waste materials. In 1933, Yonago City owned the castle ruins, then developed them as Minato-yama Park after a whole. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2006. Since then, excavation and investigations have been ongoing.
登り石垣跡～The ruins of Nobori-Ishigaki（licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons）
私の感想～My Impression
もし藩士たちが少しでも城の建物を残していてくれたらと思います。そうであったなら現在の松江城のようになっていたでしょう。どちらにしろ米子城跡に訪れる価値はあります。とてもゆったりできますし、観光客も市民も歴史を学ぶ場になります。 I wish the warriors could have kept some of the castle buildings so I could see them today like Matsue Castle. In any case, the ruins of Yonago Castle are still attractive. Visiting the ruins can be relaxing, an exercise and an opportunity to learn history for tourists and citizens.
２つの天守台を町から見上げる～Looking up the two Tenshu bases from the town
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：山陰自動車道米子西ＩＣから約４ｋｍです。公園に駐車場があります。 電車では、ＪＲ米子駅から歩いて約２０分です。 米子空港から米子駅まで：米子空港駅から境線に乗るか、空港連絡バスに乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car: It is about 4 km from the Yonago-Nishi IC on San-in Expressway. The park offers a parking lot. By train, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from JR Yonago station. From Yonago Airport to Yonago station :Take the Sakai line from Yonago-Kuko station, or take the connecting bus for Yonago station.
米子駅～Yonago Station
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・国史跡 米子城跡（Yonago City Official Website） ・「歴史群像１５０号、戦国の城／伯耆米子城」学研（Japanese Magazine） ・「よみがえる日本の城６」学研（Japanese Book）
