158.Fukuchiyama Castle Part1

Mitsuhide Akechi spent 5 years to get Tanba Province back. What he did after the conquer of the province was to build Fukuchiyama Castle.

Location and History

Mysterious younger age of Mitsuhide Akechi

Fukuchiyama Castle was located in the northern part of Tanba Province which is modern day part of Kyoto Prefecture. Tanba Province is not popular for the present generation because the province was not large and finally merged to Kyoto and Hyogo Prefectures. However, it was very important in the past because of its location just behind north of Kyoto, the capital of Japan. Especially, in unquiet times like the Sengoku Period, it was a critical area for Kyoto. That’s why the shoguns and rulers of Kyoto always tried to have the province governed by them directly or by their senior vassals. Nobunaga Oda, the ruler during the 1570’s to the 1580’s, did the same way as others by sending his senior vassal, Mitsuhide Akechi, who built Fukuchiyama Castle.

The range of Tanba Province and the location of the castle

The Portrait of Mitsuhide Akechi, owned by Hontokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Mitsuhide is a mysterious person to many history fans. It is still uncertain where he came from though his family name, “Akechi” is said a member of the Toki Clan, one of the noble Minamoto families. One of the few certain things about his younger age was that he was a relative of Nohime, Nobunaga’s legal wife. He became a vassal of a prospective shogun, Yoshiaki Ashikaga, when they met in Ichijodani of Echizen Province. It was a turn of fate that Mitsuhide introduced Yoshiaki and Nobunaga to each other before they went to Kyoto in 1568 to become the Shogun and the Ruler. He was not only a well-connected person, but also an excellent politician and an intelligent general so he eventually joined Nobunaga, an avatar of the merit system.

The sttue of Nohime at Kiyosu Park in Kiyosu City
The statue of Nobunaga Oda at Kiyosu Park
The gate of the Ichijodani Asakura Clan Hall Ruins
The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Mitsuhide builds Fukuchiyama Castle after Invasion of Tanba Province

Mitsuhide was ordered by Nobunaga to invade Tanba Province in 1575, which was divided by many local lords such as the Naito Clan in Yagi Castle, the Hatano Clan in Yagami Castle, and the Akai Clan in Kuroi Castle. Moreover, they had been against Nobunaga since he banished Yoshiaki from Kyoto in 1573. At first, everything was going good so far, where Hideharu Hatano became Mitsuhide’s supporter. However, when he began to siege Kuroi Castle, wherein a strong general, Naomasa Akai stayed, Hideharu switched side. Mitsuhide was defeated and had to withdraw. As a result, he spent 5 years to get the province back by building new castles like Kameyama Castle, hence making the Hatano Clan surrender again – waiting for Naomasa’s death and captured Kuroi Castle in the end. What Mitsuhide did after the conquer of Tanba Province was to build Fukuchiyama Castle in 1579.

The portrait of Hideharu Hatano, from the database of Historiographical Institute, the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Yagami Castle Ruins seen from Sasayama Castle Ruins
The illustration of Naomasa, from the signboard at Kuroi Castle Ruins
Kuroi Castle Ruins

The castle was originally called Yokoyama Castle, which a local Lord built and was located on the edge of the hill in the Fukuchiyama Basin where the Lord was able to overlook the area around. It was also surrounded by rivers, which meant it was defensive. Mitsuhide renovated the castle by introducing current advanced techniques of castle construction like high stone walls and building the Main Tower to show Nobunaga’s authority. Other than that, Mitsuhide governed the area well for the people’s lives by providing tax exemptions and building banks beside the rivers to avoid flood. People in Fukuchiyama City still remember them. Mitsuhide placed his son-in-law -Hidemitsu- at the castle while he stayed in the Kameyama Castle near Kyoto.

The miniature model of Fukuchiyama Castle, exhibited by the current Main Tower of the castle
The restored Main Tower of Fukuchiyama Castle
The old photo of the Main Tower of Kamayama Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle becomes Homebase of Fukuchiyama Domain after Honnoji Incident

The most mysterious thing about Mitsuhide is why he killed Nobunaga who is staying in Kyoto in the Honnoji Incident on the 2nd of June by the lunar calendar of 1582. Mitsuhide with about 13 thousand soldiers, which was ordered by Nobunaga to help Hideyoshi Hashiba, another senior vassal, who invaded the Chugoku Region, made a surprise attack on Nobunaga who was staying in Honnoji Temple with few attendants. That meant Nobunaga had fully relied on Mitsuhide. Mitsuhide was also beaten by Hideyoshi who made an incredible quick return from the Chugoku Region, only 11 days after the incident. No colleagues helped Mitsuhide. That also meant his action had not been planned. It is one of the biggest mysteries in Japanese history, seeking the reason for his rebellion as he did without giving any reasons.

The picture of the Honnoji Incident, attributed to Nobukazu Yousai, in 1896 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
~The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Fukuchiyama Castle was ruled by several relatives of Hideyoshi who became the next ruler and changed his family name to Toyotomi. After the Tokugawa Shogunate got the power in the 17th Century, several family-lineage feudal lords such as the Arima and Kuchiki Clans governed the castle and the area around as the Fukuchiyama Domain. This meant that the Fukuchiyama area was still important for the Rulers and Shoguns. The Arima Clan completed the castle in the beginning of the 17th Century and the Kuchiki Clan owned the castle from the late 17th Century to the end of the Edo Period.

The illustration of Fukuchiyama Castle in Tanba Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

To be continued in “Fukushiyama Castle Part2”

49.Odani Castle Part1

A large mountain castle the Azai Clan built

Location and History

Azai Clan built Castle as their Home Base

Odani Castle was a large mountain castle located in the northern part of Omi Province, which is now Shiga Prefecture. A local warlord of the Azai Clan, built the castle around 1520’s during the Sengoku Period. However, the clan was unfortunately defeated at this castle in 1573. As a result, the castle has been known to many people for Azai’s tragedy.

The range of Omi Province and the location of the castle

Omi Provence had been a very important location connecting western and eastern Japan. The Shoguns and rulers wanted to own or take control over this province. That’s why Nobunaga Oda made an alliance with Nagamasa Azai who was the lord of the clan by getting his sister Oichi married with Nagamasa before he went to Kyoto in 1568. However, Nagamasa rebelled against Nobunaga in 1570 when Nobunaga attacked the Asakura Clan which was another ally of the Azai Clan. The long battle between Nobunaga and Nagamasa had started.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nagamasa Azai, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is improved to fight against Nobunaga Oda

Odani Castle was built on a ridge of Odaniyama-Mountain (at 495m). It had many enclosures with halls which were surrounded by stone walls. It is thought that they were for living and showing authority to people rather than for battles at its first stage. This was because the lord of the castle sometimes escaped from the castle when it was attacked. However, in order to fight against Nobunaga, the castle was improved as a strong fortress with the help of the Asakura Clan. The castle also had many branch castles such as Ozuku Castle on the top of the mountain to protect the back side of Odani Castle.

The relief map around the castle

Nagamasa and the Asakura Clan fought against Nobunaga on a field in the Battle of Anegawa in 1570 but were beaten. Then, he decided to stay in Odani Castle waiting for his allies, the anti-Nobunaga Network beating Nobunaga. Nobunaga gave up making an aggressive attack on the castle, instead, he took actions to make it isolated bit by bit. His retainer such as Hideyoshi Hashiba persuaded some of Nagamasa’s retainers to support Nobunaga. That resulted in some branch castles of Odani Castle belonging to Nobunaga’s side without battles.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is isolated after long battle, then falls

Nobunaga also built a new battle castle called Toragoze-yama Castle as his stronghold in front of Odani Castle. This made Nobunaga get supplies easier, while making it much more difficult for Nagamasa. In 1573, Nobunaga drove the Asakura Clan away from the most important branch, Ozuku Castle which they had held and captured it. Moreover, Nobunaga chased the clan down to their home base, Ichijodani Castle, and defeated them. As a result, Odani Castle was completely isolated.

The relief map around the castle

The ruins of Ichijodani Castle

In the castle on the ridge, Nagamasa was at the Main Enclosure in the lower part and his father, Hisamasa was at the Komaru Enclosure in the upper part. Nobunaga’s retainer, Hideyoshi Hashiba rushed up from the foot to the Kyogoku-maru Enclosure in the middle part and captured it on Aug 27th. That meant the castle and the Azai Family were divided. Hisamasa fell into crisis and killed himself performing Hara-kiri on the same day. Nagamasa held on for a few more days, but finally killed himself in the same way as his father, and the castle fell on Sep 1st.

The portrait of Hisamasa Azai, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored map of the enclosures on the ridge, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters for some enclosures’ names

Fates of Namasa Azai’s wife and children

Oichi, who was Nobunaga’s sister, but also Nagamasa’s wife, had still been at the castle and was saved by Nobunaga. She and Nagamasa had three daughters and at least one son. These daughters were also saved and later known as Azai’s Three Sisters including the oldest Chacha being Hideyoshi’s wife after he became the ruler of Japan. The son called Manpuku-maru was unfortunately killed as a common rule at that time not to be revenged by him. The heads of Nagamasa and Hisamasa’s were on public display in Kyoto also as another common rule. Nobunada made skull cups using their heads to share them with his retainers in a party. There were many different common practices at that times from us.

The portrait of Oichi, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The statues of the three sisters, at the site of Kitanosho Castle Ruins

To be continued in “Odani Castle Part2”

37.Ichijodani Castle Part3

A great medieval city was discovered.

Later History

After Ichijodani was burned, farmers used the ruins as fields. Some items of the ruins such as the Asakura Clan Hall Ruins have been well known among people, but they didn’t think such a large city was sleeping under the fields. The excavation of the ruins started in 1967. The excavation team first found garden ruins followed by foundations for many buildings, and household items from the Sengoku Period. The ruins were designated as a National Special Historic Site in 1971. Since then, over 1.7 million items have been discovered from the ruins. The restored streets and residences opened in 1984, which was considered as the first example of similar facilities in Japan.

The Asakura Clan Hall Ruins
The Suwa Residence Garden Ruins
One of the residence foundations
The entrance of the restored streets and residences
The restored streets and residences

My Impression

Takakage Asakura, the first lord of the clan, left his teachings to his descendants. The teachings say you should adopt your vassals by capacity and loyalty. You must not buy expensive swords, horses, and hawks without reason. You shouldn’t invite entertainers from outside paying high fees. I’m not sure if Yoshikage Asakura, the last lord of the clan, followed his ancestor’s teachings. However, I think the prosperity of Ichijodani might have caused Yoshikage’s misfortune.

The graveyard of Takakage Asakura
The graveyard of Yoshikage Asakura

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 10 minutes away from Fukui IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
There are several parking lots along the ruins.
By public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes walking from JR Ichijodani Station to the ruins of the Outbound Fortress Entrance, the edge of the whole ruins.
To get to Ichijodani Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the limited express on the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station, and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.

The signpost of the ruins in front of the Outbound Fortress Entrance

Links and References

Ichijodani Asakura Family Site Museum

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Ichijodani Castle Part1”
Back to “Ichijodani Castle Part2”