The castle had a very short life but rich history.
Location and History
Nobunaga’s Foothold
Komakiyama Castle was located on an 86m high mountain called Komakiyama, on Nobi Plain in Owari Province, what is now the western part of Aichi Prefecture. The mountain had no castle until Nobunaga Oda built a castle on it in 1563. The reason for it was that he wanted to move his home base from Kiyosu Castle in now Nagoya City to this castle. He aimed to capture Inabayama Castle, what is now Gifu City, which the Saito Clan owned at that time. Komakiyama was much closer to Inabayama than Kiyosu. However, it was very rare for warlords and their retainers to move their home to another. They always continued to live in places where their ancestors had been.
The location of the castle
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Three Distinct Features
Komakiyama Castle by Nobunaga had three distinct features. First, the Main Enclosure or Honmaru on the top was surrounded by stone walls made using huge stones. Some of the stones were carried from another mountain. At that time, building stone walls for castles was rare, and there was likely no other case like Komakiyama. It was one of the earliest examples of using stone walls as a show of authority.
The remaining stone walls on the mountain
Secondly, the castle had two residences for the lord, one was on the mountain, the other was at the foot. Other warlords who had a mountain castle also often had two residences. They usually lived in the one on the foot and used the one on the mountain when a battle happened. However, in the case of Nobunaga, he seemed to live in his residence on the mountain. He might have considered the mountain as a special place. Another similar example can be seen in Gifu Castle, his next home base.
The excavation site on the mountain
Lastly, the Main Route went straight from the foot to the mid-slope of the mountain like Azuchi Castle, his last home base. It was abnormal for other warlords to have such a route on the mountain, because it was not defensive. The reason is still unsure, but it must have depended on Nobunaga’s idea. In addition, its castle town was built in an advanced way in an area where nothing existed prior. The town was divided orderly to accommodate warriors, merchants, and craftsmen separately. Such a way to develop castle town is commonly seen in those in the next century.
The straight Main Route from the footThe miniature model of the castle town distribution at the site
Ieyasu’s Stronghold
The life of the castle by Nobunaga was just four years, as he was successful in capturing Inabayama Castle in 1567. He moved his home base again to Inabayama castle and renamed it Gifu Castle. Komakiyama Castle was abandoned right away. In 1584, the castle was reused by Ieyasu Tokugawa when he fought with the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute. Ieyasu reinforced earthen walls and dry moats surrounding the castle to establish a stronghold there against Hideyoshi at Inuyama Castle. This battle resulted in a dead heat and Ieyasu showed his great presence towards the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate later.
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The earthen walls built by Ieyasu
この城には、様々な魅力があります。
This castle attracts you in several perspectives.
立地と歴史～Location and History
犬山城は、その古風な天守や、眺望がよく知られています。でもこの城にはもっと知られるべき見どころがあるのです。 Inuyama Castle is known for its old Main Tower or “Tenshu” and their landscape. But the castle has more attractions you can find.
犬山城の遠景～A distant view of Inuyama Castle（taken by nagabutinana from photoAC）
国境に立地～It is located around the boder of provices
この城は最初は１５３７年に地方領主の織田信安により築かれたと言われています。木曽川の畔、４０ｍの高さの丘の上にあります。この地点は尾張国（現在の愛知県の一部）の端に当たり、尾張国と美濃国（現在の岐阜県の一部）の国境のすぐ近くでした。また、水上交通の要所でもありました。 It is said that the castle was first built in 1537 by a local clan, Nobuyasu Oda. It was located at the top of a 40m height hill beside Kisogawa River. The spot was on the edge of Owari Province ( now part of Aichi Pref.), right next to the border between Owari and Mino Province ( now part of Gifu Pref.), and it was also important for water transportation.
城の位置と尾張国の範囲～The location of the castle and the range of Owari Province
有力戦国大名の標的に～Great warlords targets it
結果として、戦国時代には多くの有力な戦国大名がこの城を手に入れようとしました。最初は、織田信長が美濃攻略の足掛かりとしてこの城を得ました。次には、豊臣秀吉が１５８４年の徳川家康との小牧長久手の戦いのときに、この城に本陣を構えました。 As a result, many great warlords aimed to capture the castle in the Warring States or “Sengoku” Period. First, Nobunaga Oda got the castle as the foothold before he invaded Mino. Secondly, Hideyoshi Toyotomi used the castle as his stronghold when he fought with Ieyasu Tokugawa in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute in 1584.
織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、１６世紀後半～The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵～The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
成瀬氏が城と町を支配～Naruse clan governs the castle and town
最終的には、徳川幕府が確立すると、幕府は成瀬正成を徳川の親藩である尾張藩の付家老として、この城に据えました。成瀬氏は大名ではありませんでした。それでも、江戸時代の間中例外として、大名のように犬山城と城下の支配を許されたのです。 Lastly, after the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, it placed Masanari Naruse at the castle as the Attendant Chief Retainer for Tokugawa’s relative Owari Domain. The Naruse clan was not a lord. However, they were allowed to govern Inuyama Castle and the castle town like a lord all through Edo Period as an exception.
成瀬正成肖像画、白林寺所蔵、江戸時代～The portrait of Masanari Naruse, owned by Hakurinji Temple, in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）犬山城古図、犬山市城とまちミュージアム蔵、江戸時代～The Old Map of Inuyama Castle, owned by Inuyama Cultural Assets Museum, in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
特徴～Features
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
三方は急崖～Steep cliffs in three directions
現在、天守だけが現存していますが、城がどんなだったかは今でも見て取ることができます。城は北の方角の背後に木曽川があり、自然の要害になっています。城がある丘は三方向（北、東、西）が急崖であり、このようなしつらえはよく「後ろ堅固」と呼ばれます。更には、この崖はより垂直になるよう削られていて、このことを「切岸」といいます。その上、この辺りは深い空堀に囲まれていました。 Now, only the Tenshu remains, but we can still see how the castle was. The castle has a natural hazard as Kisogawa River in the back of the north side. The hill of the castle also has steep cliffs in three directions ( north, east and west). Such a condition is often called “back secure” or “Ushiro-Kengo”. In addition, the cliffs are cut more vertically which is called “Kirigishi”. Moreover, the area was surrounded by a deep dry moat.
北側の急崖～The steep cliff in the north side
南方に大手道～Main Route in the south
城は、南の方角に「大手道」と呼ばれる一本道でのみ開かれていました。今はその道に沿って簡単に城の中心と天守に行くことができますが、過去においては、５つの門によって厳重に守られていました。 The castle is open to only one route in the south called the Main Route or “Ote-michi”. It is easy to go to the center of the castle and Tenshu through the route now, but it was heavily guarded by five gates in the past.
大手道～The Main Route
門の間にまっすぐな部分がありますが、ここもまた高い壁と櫓がある曲輪に挟まれていました。最後の門である「鉄門」は再建されています。 The straight part of the route between the gates was also sandwiched by enclosures with high walls and turrets. The last gate called “Kurogane-mon” has been reconstructed.
天守は国宝で、３層４階＋地下２階となっています。初期の天守の形式である望楼型で、日本の現存天守では最古であるかもしれません。但し事はそう単純ではなくて、歴史家や建築家は天守は３段階で作られたと言っています。最初は２層の櫓として作られました。現存の１階と２階は古い工具と方法で作られています。 The Tenshu is a National Treasure. It has three layers and four levels with two extra basements. It shows the first Tenshu style called lookout tower type, and may be the oldest remaining Tenshu in Japan. But it is not that simple. Historians and architects say that Tenshu was built in three steps. The first step built a two story turret, as the remaining first and second floors are made with older tools and in practice.
犬山城天守～The Tenshu of Inuyama Castle２階の内部～The interior of the second floor
３階と４階は塔のように外を見渡す用途で、新しい工法を使い、２段階目に付け加えられました。最後の段階で成瀬氏が、天守に唐破風や高欄を付けたりして装飾したのです。問題は、いつ最初の建築がなされたかです。もしそれが城の創建と同じ時期であれば、間違いなく最古の天守と言えるでしょう。将来明らかになるかもしれません。 The third and forth floors were added to look outside like a tower, using newer methods in the second step. Lastly the Naruse clan decorated Tenshu by adding a Chinese style gable called “Kara-Hafu” and a veranda at the top floor in the last step. The question is when the first step was done. If it is the same age as the castle itself, it is definitely the oldest Tenshu. It may be proven in the future.
天守の上層部分～The upper layer of the Tenshu（taken by マッハGGG from photoAC）
最上階が開放的なので、木曽川とその周辺の素晴らしい景色が眺めることができます。手摺を含む高欄は残っているそのままです。城主の大名と全く同じ体験ができるわけです。 You can see a great view of Kisogawa River and the area around from the open top floor. The veranda including its handrail is original. We can enjoy the exact same experience as the lords who owned the castle.
天守からの木曽川の眺め～A view of Kiso-gawa River from Tenshu元来からの高欄の手摺～The original handrail of the veranda（taken by ACJOE from photoAC）
その後～Later History
明治維新後、犬山城は廃城となり、天守を除く全ての建物は撤去されました。１８９１年、濃尾地震により天守が半ば倒壊しました。その後、以前の領主だった成瀬氏が、彼ら自身で復旧することを条件に再び城を保有しました。犬山城は最近まで私有されていたのです。その間、天守は国宝に指定されました。２００８年、犬山城白帝文庫という法人が設立され、将来への保存のため、城を保有することになりました。それ以来、調査研究が続けられています。 After the Meiji Restoration, Inuyama Castle was abandoned and all its buildings were demolished excluding the Tenshu. In 1891, the Tenshu collapsed partly due to the Nobi Earthquake. After that, the former lord, the Naruse clan owned the castle again on the condition that they would restore it. Inuyama Castle had been privately owned until recently. Meanwhile, it was designated as a National Treasure. Such a case was very rare. In 2008, a corporation called Inuyama-jo Hakutei-bunko was established and it has owned the castle to preserve it in the future. Since then, investigations and developments have been done.
２０１９年修繕中の天守～Tenshu under repairing in 2019
私の感想～My Impression
元々、犬山城は戦いのために築かれました。江戸時代には美しい眺望でも知られるようになりました。成瀬氏は城下町も発展させました。その雰囲気は今に残ります。城に行く途中で通って行けます。この城は今や重要な歴史遺産になりました。この城のいろんな側面を見ていただきたいと思います。 Originally, Inuyama Castle was built just for battle. It also became a beautiful landscape in the Edo Period. The Naruse clan developed the castle town, too. Its atmosphere remains even now. You can enjoy it on the way to the castle. The castle is now becoming more important for cultural heritage. I hope you will see many perspectives of the castle.
浮世絵に描かれた犬山城、「木曽街道鵜沼宿」渓斎英泉作、江戸時代～Inuyama Castle in a Ukiyoe painting, “Unuma on Kiso-kaido Road” attributed to Eisai Keisai in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）現在の城下町～The castle town now（taken by fuku41 from photoAC）
ここに行くには～How to get There
ここに行くには、電車をおすすめします。 犬山駅から：途中城下町を通って歩いて約２０分です。 犬山遊園駅から：木曽川沿いを通って歩いて約１５分です。 名古屋から両駅まで：名鉄名古屋駅から名鉄犬山線の快速特急に乗ってください。 車の場合は、東名高速道路の小牧ＩＣから約１２ｋｍですが、城周辺の道路は混雑気味で、駐車場もあまりありません。 I recommend using the train to get there. From Inuyama station: it takes about 20 minutes on foot, going through the castle town on the way. From Inuyama-Yuen station: it takes about 15 minutes on foot, going along Kisogawa River. From Nagoya to both stations: Take the rapid limited express on Meitetsu Inuyama line from Meitetsu Nagoya Station. If you want to go there by car, it is about 12 km from the Komaki IC on the Tomei Expressway. But the roads around the castle tend to be crowded, and there are a few parking lots.
この城は徳川家康の生誕地として知られていますが、実際にはもう少し複雑なのです。
This castle is considered to be the birthplace of Ieyasu Tokugawa was born, but actually the story is more complicated.
立地と歴史～Location and History
三河ではよくある立地～Typical location in Mikawa
岡崎城は元々、矢作川と乙川の合流地点にある、龍頭山と呼ばれる小山の上にありました。この城は三河国（現在の愛知県東部に該当）に属してしました。この国においてはよく見られる戦略的立地です。 Okasaki Castle was originally located on a hill called Ryutozan, at the meeting point of the Yahagi River and Oto River. The castle belonged to Mikawa Province (what is now the eastern part of Aichi Pref.). It had s typical strategic location in the province.
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
城の最初の姿～Its first appearance
１５世紀の中頃に西郷稠頼が最初にこの城を築いたと言われています。本丸にある堀の一つが彼の法名を取って「清海」堀と呼ばれています。その後、松平氏がこの城を支配していました。その子孫、徳川家康が更に城を拡張します。その当時の城がどうだったか定かでありませんが、いくつかの曲輪があり、石垣や天守はなかったと思われます。歴史家は、今に残る持仏堂曲輪の形が、その当時の城の特徴を残していると言います。 It is said that Tsuguyori Saigo first built the castle in the middle of the the 15th Century. One of the moats still carries his Buddhist name. It’s called “Seikai” moat of the Main Enclosure or “Honmaru”. After that, the Matsudaira clan took control over the castle. Their descendant Ieyasu Tokugawa improve it. We don’t know exactly what the castle looked like back then, but it seemed to have just a couple of enclosures, no stone walls, and no Main Tower or “Tenshu”. Historians say the shape of the Jibutsu-do enclosure shows the features of the castle at that time.
清海堀～Seikai moat持仏堂曲輪～Jibutsu-do enclosure
城の完成～The completion of the castle
豊臣氏に仕えた田中吉政が１５９０年に関東地方に移っていった徳川氏に代わって城に入ってきました。彼は、初代の天守を築き、石垣で取り囲み、外郭を巡らした城下町を作り、城を近代化しました。１６００年に家康が天下を取った後は、城は江戸時代を通して譜代大名によって所有されました。本田氏は１６世紀中頃までに、天守を置き替え、城の周りの石垣を完成させました。 Yoshimasa Tanaka who served the Toyotomi clan was governing the castle in 1590, instead of Tokugawa who had been transferred to Kanto Region. He modernized the castle by building the first Main Tower or “Tenshu”, surrounding it with stone walls, and making the castle town with an outline. After Ieyasu got the power in 1600, the castle was owned by hereditary feudal lords all through the Edo Period. The Honda clan replaced the Tenshu, and completed the stone walls around the castle by the middle of the 16 century.
現在の復興天守～The present reconstructed Tenshu三州岡崎城図、江戸時代～The illustration of Okazawaki Castle in Mikawa Province（出典：国立国会図書館）
維持するのは大変～It was hard to maintain
城を統治した大名たちの領地や石高は大きくなかったのですが、幕府創始者である家康ゆかりの城として維持する必要がありました。更には川の氾濫や地震の被害も受けながら、城と周辺地の修繕、改修に努めました。２０１５年、乙川に沿った４００ｍもの長さの石垣が発見されました。この石垣を築いた理由の一つは洪水を防ぐためだったようです。 Several clans that governed the castle didn’t have large territories and earnings, but they had to maintain it as the founder Ieyasu’s home. They also suffered from river floods as well as earthquakes. They struggled to repair and improve the castle and the area around. In 2015, 400m-long stone walls were discovered along the Oto River. One of the reasons for building them was to prevent floods.
過去の岡崎城のミニチュアモデル～The miniature model of Okazaki Castle in the past（岡崎城内博物館より）乙川と発見された石垣～Oto River and the stone walls alongside it
その後～Later History
日本最初の「公園」～The first “Park” in Japan
明治維新後、岡崎城は廃城となり、その全ての建物は撤去されました。城跡はその後すぐの１８７４年に岡崎「公園」となりました。２０世紀の初め、有名な造園家である本田静六と、当時岡崎市長であった小瀧喜七郎は、木を植え、図書館や病院などの公共施設を建設し、公園を整備しました。 After the Meiji Restoration, Okazaki Castle was abandoned, and all of their buildings were demolished. The ruins were soon turned into a park called Okazaki “Park” in 1874. In the early 20th century, Seroku Honda, a famous garden designer, and Kishichiro Odaki, the mayor of Okazaki City at that time, improved the park by planting trees, and building public facilities such as a library, and a hospital.
「公園」碑～The monument of “Park”公園にある小瀧喜七郎の銅像～The statue of Kishichiro Odaki in the park
城の建物の再建～Rebuilding of castle buildings
第二次世界大戦後、公園は歴史公園としても注目されました。城の中心の石垣を伴った基礎部分はよく残っていたためです。１９５９年、元からあった天守台の上に天守が復興されました。元の天守の詳細は不明でしたが、建築家の城戸久が古写真を参考にして設計しました。戦後日本復興のシンボルの一つと言われています。最近、大手門や東隅櫓なども伝統的建築物として再建されてます。 After World War II, the park was also featured as a historical park, since the foundation with stone walls in the center of the castle still remained. In 1959, the Tenshu was reconstructed on the original Tenshu base. The details of the original Tenshu were uncertain, but Hisashi Kido, an architect, designed it based on old photographs. It is said to be one of the symbols for the reconstruction of Japan. More traditional buildings were recently restored like the Main Entrance Gate “Ote-mon” and the East Corner Turret “Higashi-Sumi Yagura”.
復興天守～The reconstructed Tenshu再建された東隅櫓～The rebult East Corner Turret
最近の動向～The recent movement
更に最近では、岡崎市は公園を、徳川幕府の創始者、徳川家康の生誕地として位置づけようとしてます。恐らくこれは、観光振興や市のシンボルとするためなのでしょう。市は更に城の建物を復元しようとしていますが、歴史家は植物が育つことで石垣が痛んだり、城としての景観が損なわれると指摘しています。困ったことですが、どう解決するのか見ていきたいと思います。 In more recent years, Okazaki City has been trying to identify the park as the place where Ieayasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate was born. That’s probably done for tourism and in order to make it a symbol of the city. The city plans to restore more castle buildings, but historians say that growing plants are damaging the stone walls and landscape for the castle. Removing some plants is essential for conserving the ruins of the castle. That’s troubling. I am yet to see how they will solve this problem in the future.
徳川家康肖像画、加納探幽筆、大阪城天守閣蔵～The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）公園は木々に覆われています～The park is covered with trees
特徴～Features
城エリアに入る～Entering the castle area
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
東岡崎駅から来られる場合は、乙川の川縁から城の遠景が目に入ってきます。そこには、２０１５年に発見された長い石垣が川岸に沿っています。 If you come from Higashi-Okazaki Station, you can see the view of the castle ruins from the riverside of the Oto River. There are long stone walls along the riverside which were discovered in2015.
岡崎城の遠景～A dintant view of Okazaki Castle
最初に到着するのは菅生曲輪で、丘の上の城の中心部分も見えます。 You will first reach the Sugo enclosure where you can also see the center of the castle on the hill.
菅生曲輪～Sugo enclosure
復元された大手門に行くには、東曲輪に沿って掘られた道を進みます。この道はかつては堀の底でした。 To reach the restored Ote-mon Gate, go through the road cut along the Higashi enclosure. The road was once used as the bottom of the moat.
ここは堀の底でした～This is where the bottome of the moat was
大手門は岡崎公園の入り口でもあります。門を過ぎると、花壇がある近代公園となった二の丸に入っていきます。 The gate is also the entrance of Okazaki Park. After passing the gate, the Ninomaru enclosure can be seen as a modern park with a flower garden.
再建された大手門～The rebuilt Ote-mon Gate二の丸にある花時計～The flower clock at Ninomaru（taken by tkworks from photoAC）
本丸エリア～The Honmaru area
本丸の地図～The map of Honmaru
更に本丸の方に進むと、清海堀の前の持仏堂曲輪が見えます。この曲輪は明らかにその丸い形が突き出た格好になっています。空堀により囲まれています。これらは古い時代の徳川の城の特徴であり、家康の時代まで遡る可能性があります。 Going further to the Main Enclosure or “Honmaru”, you can see the Jibutsu-do enclosure in front of the Seikai moat. The enclosure clearly stick out due to its round shaped. It is surrounded with earthen walls. They are the features of the older Tokugawa castle’s defense system that could date back to the Ieyasu Era.
持仏堂曲輪の外側～The outside of Jibutsu-do enclosure持仏堂曲輪の内側～The inside of Jibutsu-do enclosure
本丸へは大手口、埋門口、風呂谷門口の３つのルートがあります。石垣が残っており、恐らく田中または本田時代に築かれたものです。過去には門や櫓によって厳重に守られていました。 There are three routes to Honmaru, the Ote route, the Uzumi-mon Gate route, and the Furotani-mon Gate route. Their stone walls still remain and they were probably built in the Tanaka and Honda Era. The routes must have been strictly protected by gates and turrets in the past.
復興天守は実際にはビル建築であり、歴史博物館としても使われていますが、天守台の石垣は田中氏によって積み上げられました。 The reconstructed Tenshu is actually a modern building which is also used as a historical museum, but the stone walls for its base were originally built by the Tanaka clan.
復興天守とオリジナルの石垣～The reconstructed Tenshu and the original stone walls
家康の史跡～Ieyasu’s landmarks
更には、徳川家康にまつわる史跡としては、家康の銅像や家康公産湯の井戸があります。 In addition, there are landmarks related to Ieyasu Tokugawa such as his statues and the well which was used for his first bath.
公園にある徳川家康の銅像～The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa家康公産湯の井戸～The well which was used for Ieyasu’s first bath
私の感想～My Impression
岡崎城の城跡には過去の遺産が染み渡っています。岡崎公園は城の主要の曲輪があった場所に作られました。外郭を含む他の曲輪は既に市街地に変わってしまっています。城の研究や発掘が進めば、新しい発見もあるでしょう。そういったニュースを聞くのが楽しみです。 The ruins of Okazaki Castle are steeped in along legacy. Okazaki Park is built on the spot of the primary enclosures of the castle. Other enclosures including the outline were already turned into the city area. As the studies and the excavation for the castle increase, new discoveries will come. I’m looking forward to hearing about them.
本丸の風呂谷門口近くの古い石垣～The old stone walls near Furotani-mon Gate route at Honmaru
ここに行くには～How to get There
名鉄線東岡崎駅から歩いて約１５分です。 東京から東岡崎駅まで： 東海道新幹線に乗り、豊橋駅で名鉄名古屋本線に乗り換えてください。 名古屋から東岡崎駅まで： 名鉄名古屋駅から名古屋本線に乗ってください。 車で行く場合：東名高速道路岡崎ＩＣから約３ｋｍです。公園に駐車場があります。 It takes about 15 minutes From Meitetsu Higashi-Okazaki station to get there on foot. From Tokyo to Higashi-Okazaki st.: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen superexpress to Toyohashi station, and transfer for Meitetsu Nagoya line. From Nagoya to Higashi-Okazaki st.: Take the train on Meitetsu Nagoya line at Meitetsu-Nagoya station. If you want to go there by car: It is about 3 km away from the Okazaki IC on Tomei Expressway. The park offer a parking lot.
