How can we evaluate the Terasawa Clan’s achievement?
Later History
After the Meiji Restoration, Karatsu Castle was abandoned and all the buildings of the castle were demolished. Most of the castle area was turned into the city area, but the mountain part became Maizuru Park in 1877. The Imitation Main Tower was built and opened in 1966 as new Karatsu Castle. Since then, the castle site has been a modern tourist attraction as well as a historical spot.
The Imitation Main Tower of Katatsu CastleThe Imitation Main Tower seen from the outside of the Main Enclosure
My Impression
I didn’t have a good impression of the Terasawa Clan because of the result of the Shimabara Rebellion. The founder of the clan, Hirotaka seemed to be loyal to the Tokugawa Shogunate in his new territory called Amakusa. I guess his oppression was a way for him to do so like the Matsukura Clan at Shimabara Castle and Nobutoshi Sanada at Numata Castle. I also think we should evaluate what he did in Karatsu and Amakusa separately. He at least built Karatsu Castle and the foundation of Karatsu City. I also recommend enjoying Karatsu pottery Hirotaka promoted, which is still a well-known product in the city.
Shimabara CastleThe ruins of Numata CastleOne of the masterpieces of Karatsu pottery called Platter with Pine Tree, owned by the Metropolitan Museum (licensed by the Metropolitan Museum via Wikimedia Commons)
How to get There
I recommend using a car when you visit the castle. It is about 15 minutes away from Nijo-Shikaka IC on the Nishi-Kyushu Expressway. You can park at the parking lot near the entrance of the castle. By train, It takes about 20 minutes on foot from Karatsu Station. To get to Karatsu Station from Fukuoka: Take the Fukuoka City Subway on the Kuko Line, transfer to the JR Chikuhi Line at Meihama Station. From Tokyo or Osaka to Fukuoka: Take the Shinkansen super express or plane.
Today, Karatsu Castle is open to the public as a modern tourist facility. If you visit the castle site, you will first see the five-layer Imitation Main Tower on the mountain. It is actually a modern building, but its appearance looks like a Main Tower with a popular style when the castle was first built. It is still uncertain if the castle had a Main Tower, however, the tower looks great.
The aerial photo around the castle
If you drive to the castle site, you can park beside the estuary of Matsuura-gawa River. Crossing the road from the parking lot, you will be at the entrance of the castle. You can see the great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left, where the government main hall was in the past and a school is now.
A view of the Imitation Main Tower from the parking lotThe stone walls of the Second Enclosure
Climbing on Top, Enjoying great views
Visitors usually go to the center of the castle from the ruins of Sakaguchi-mon Gate. You will climb on the long stone steps to the Secondary Enclosure. The enclosure has the Masugata Entrance which has a square space and is surrounded by stone walls for defense. The enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure where you can look up the stone wall base for the Main Tower including the Imitation Main Tower. You can also enter the Main Enclosure through the restored Main Enclosure Turret Gate.
The long stone steps from the ruins of Sakaguchi-mon GateThe entrance of the Secondary EnclosureLooking up the remaining stone wall base and Imitation Main TowerThe restored Main Enclosure Turret Gate
Alternatively, you can go to the Main Enclosure more easily from the foot of the mountain by using the elevator. This is because the castle is now developed as a modern facility. The Imitation Main Tower is used as a historical museum and observation platform. Inside the tower, you can learn more about the history of the castle and the culture of Karatsu City.
The elevator to the Main EnclosureThe inside of the Main EnclosureThe Imitation Tower used as the historical museum and observation platform
On the top floor, you can enjoy a great 360-degree view of the city. For example, A beautiful pine forest along the beach can be seen over the estuary of Matsuura-gawa River in the east. It is known as Nijino-Matsubara or the Rainbow Pine Forest which Hitotaka Terasawa developed. In fact, the mountain you are standing was connected to the beach before the castle was built. You can also see a view of Genkai-nada Sea in the north, the city area in the south, and the former castle area along the beach to the west.
A view including the Rainbow Pine Forest in the eastGenkai-nada Sea in the northThe Second Enclosure along the beach in the westThe city area and Matsuura-gawa River in the south
Walking around to see what castle was like
If you want to see more about what Karatsu Castle was like in the past, how about walking around the present castle? For example, you can walk along the foot area of the mountain along the coast. This area is called the Belt Enclosure where some turrets on the stone walls were built to prevent attacks from the sea. The stone walls remain and some plaster walls were restored recently on them. You can see these stone walls stand by the shore and they protected the castle strongly.
The Belt Enclosure at foot of the mountainOne of the ruins of the turretsThe stone walls standing by the shore
You can also walk from the mountain to the west along the beach. The area is called the Second Enclosure where many warriors’ houses were built. The area was turned into the city area, but you can see the long stone walls along the enclosure remain. You will also see the water moat dividing the Second and Third Enclosures and the restored Drum Tower at the Second Gate Ruins.
The long stone walls along the Second EnclosureThe moat between the Second and Third EnclosuresThe restored Drum Tower
Toyma City should be more proud of the real history of the castle.
Later History
After the Meiji Restoration, Toyama Castle was abandoned. All the buildings of the castle were demolished or burnt. The center of the castle was turned into the Toyama prefectural office, and the other areas were turned into the city area. Toyama Park was established in 1939 after the prefectural office was moved to the ground of the former Jintsu-gawa River. However, Toyama City was reduced to ashes due to the Great Toyama Air Raid in 1945. After World War II, People in Toyama held an industrial exhibition at the ruins of the castle in 1954. The Imitation Main Tower was built for the event to celebrate the revival of the city. Since then, the ruins are being developed as an urban park.
The ruins of the prefectural assembly hall in the park The Imitation Tower when it was completed (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
My Impression
The ruins of Toyama Castle are not designated as a historic site at all. That means Toyama City can develop the park however it likes. The city can build imitation buildings as new attractions. However, I think the city should inform the citizens and visitors of what the castle really looked like since there are still some original items. I’m afraid that people would be not sure why the city and people are there and how they survived until today. The city might lose its identity. The city might also think castles must have a great Main Tower and stone walls. However, Toyama Castle has a great history without them. If the city thinks so, I recommend learning what the people in Takaoka City in the same prefecture have been doing. They have been maintaining the ruins of Takaoka Castle with soil-made enclosures and water moats after the castle abandoned, while using them as a natural park and for modern facilities.
The Imitation Tower on the original stone walls, connected to the imitated stone walls on the rightThe Imitation Tower and the original stone walls of the Iron GateThe ruins of Takaoka Castle is maintained as a natural park
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car: It is about 15 minutes away from Toyama IC on Hokuriku Expressway. The park offers a parking lot. By train, it is about 10 minutes on foot from Toyama Station. To get to Toyama Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express.
Toyama StationThe entrance of the parking lot in the park
