178.Noshima Castle Part1

Noshima Castle was located on Noshima Island, which is in a narrow strait called Miyakubo-Seto, and part of the Geiyo Islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It was also built and operated by the Noshima-Murakami Clan, one of the three Murakami Navies which were very active around these islands.

Location and History

Murakami Navies, Excellent Guides of Seto Inland Sea

Noshima Castle was located on Noshima Island, which is in a narrow strait called Miyakubo-Seto, and part of the Geiyo Islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It was also built and operated by the Noshima-Murakami Clan, one of the three Murakami Navies which were very active around these islands. Before modern times, sailing along the coast was a major way of transportation. Seto Inland Sea was one of the most important sea routes, which connected central and western Japan. However, the Geiyo Islands area has lots of islands and narrow straits, which made the sea currents fast and difficult. For example, in Kurushima Strait, the direction and speed of the current frequently changes mainly due to the pull of the moon. Ships are still now required to follow instructions from the sea traffic center and its traffic signals.

The Kurushima Strait

The location of the castle

In the Middle Ages, boatmen and pilots, who sailed there, were required to have great competence instead. In addition, sailing alone could be very dangerous at that time as the police power of the central government was still weak. Each area was governed by a local lord or others, such as pirates. People at that time thought travelers should pay a toll when they passed others’ territories. The Murakami Navies, which were also some of the local lords, came out to guarantee safe travel to ships around the islands. The earliest record about them in 1349 says the Noshima-Murakami Clan guarded the sea around Yuge Island. Their system was roughly as follow: they escorted ships which had paid protection money (basically 10% of the value of the cargo), otherwise, they became pirates by chasing the ship using their boats called Kobayabune (meaning “small fast boat”).

The restored Kobayabune boat, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

Home of Noshima-Murakami Clan

The navies were eventually divided into three clans: the Innoshima-Murakami, Noshima-Murakami, and Kurushima-Murakami Clans. Their territories were based on the northern, middle, and southern Geiyo Islands respectively. Noshima is a small island in the Miyakubo-Seto Strait which is between Ushima Island to the north and Oshima Island to the south. The strait was on one of the shortest paths for ships to pass through the Seto Inland Sea. However, the speed of the current is at most around 10 knots and kept changing constantly. The sea around the island is shallow and kept swirling, which is uncontrollable for regular ships. For the navy members, Noshima is about 300m away from Oshima Island where they usually live, so they could communicate verbally. That meant they could immediately ask or provide help to each other in the event of an emergency. From the top of Noshima, they were able to see the whole strait, beacon fires on mountains of Oshima Island and even Shikoku Island over Oshima between the mountains. Overall, it was suitable for the home base of the Noshima-Murakami Clan.

The diorama of the area around Noshima Island (marked by the red circle), exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
The Oshima Island seen from Noshima Castle Ruins, can we communicate with voice?
The ruins of Koga Yashiki residence in the Oshima Island, which was said to have been the residence of the Noshima-Murakami Clan

They operated Noshima Castle on the island between the 14th and 16th Centuries. Several enclosures and buildings were built after leveling the land. The navy members lived in or were stationed at the site not only to guard the strait, but also to trade and fish. The defensive systems of the castle were few, excluding artificial vertical cliffs on the sides, because its sea barrier was strong. Instead, they constructed harbors, landing places and maintenance yards at the seaside. On the other hand, the island didn’t provide water, food and other supplies they needed, which had to be brought from other islands.

The imaginary drawing of Noshima Castle, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

“Largest Pirates of Japan”

The Murakami Navies also often joined battles to support other warlords. In the case of the Noshima-Murakami Clan, it had a good relationship with the Kobayakawa Clan, a branch of the Mori Clan which was the greatest warlord in the Chugoku Region nearby. They needed the superior navy power to survive during the harsh Sengoku Period. Other warlords, such as the Otomo Clan, also invited the Noshima-Murakami Clan. When it once switched to the Otomo’s side, the Kobayakawa Clan, which also had a navy, attacked and blocked Noshima Castle by interrupting the supplies (laying siege) to the castle until it returned to the Kobayakawa’s side.

The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa who was the clan’s lord at that time, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The power of the Noshima-Murakami Clan reached its peak when Takeyoshi Murakami was the lord during the late 16th Century. The most popular battle his navy fought in was the First Battle of Kizugawaguchi between the Mori and Oda Clans in 1576. In this battle, the Mori’s navies, supported by the Takeyoshi’s navy, who tried to bring supplies to Ishiyama Honganji Temple (currently Osaka Castle), and blocked by the Oda’s navies. Tekayoshi’s navy attacked the Oda’s ships with bombs, which eventually burned and sank. The supply operation was a success. In 1586, a Portugal missionary, Luis Frois visited Noshima Castle while sailing the Seto Inland Sea. He recorded in his book “The History of Japan” that they were the largest group of pirates. His crew was given a passport-flag which would guaranteed his safe voyage considerably.

The imaginary drawing of the First Battle of Kizugawaguchi, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
The imaginary drawing of Luis Frois‘s visit to Noshima Castle, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
One of the remaining passport-flags, owned by Yamaguchi Prefectural Archives (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sudden Ending of Navies and Castle

The three Murakami Navies basically cooperated with each other, however, they eventually took different paths. The Kurushima-Murakami Clan switched to the Oda’s side through the invitation of Hideyoshi Hashiba, who would later be the ruler. Therefore, Takeyoshi occupied the Kurushima’s territory. However, this would be a misfortune for him. In the process of the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi, he was asked to return it to the Kurushima by Hideyoshi. He seemed to want to maintain his clan’s independence. However, when the Kobayakawa Clan, which was the current boss of the Noshima-Murakami Clan, was transferred to the Kushu Region by Hideyoshi, Takeyoshi finally had no choice but to leave all his territories including Noshima Castle.

The current Noshima Castle Ruins, seen from the Oshima Island

To be continued in “Noshima Castle Part2”

173.Nitakayama Castle Part2

Today, the ruins of Nitakayama Castle have been well developed for visitors as a hiking course. The course is the same or similar to the original main route of the castle. If you go on a path from the entrance of the route, you will find the path going beside a ridge on the right.

Features

Defensive system using Natural Terrain

Today, the ruins of Nitakayama Castle have been well developed for visitors as a hiking course. The course is the same or similar to the original main route of the castle. If you go on a path from the entrance of the route, you will find the path going beside a ridge on the right. There is a shrine called Kojinsha on the ridge, but it was said to be a barbican enclosure to protect the route from enemies.

The map around the castle

The entrance of the main route
The route goes beside the ridge on the right
The Kojinsha Shrine on the ridge

After you see a large direction board, you will continue to walk the route beside another ridge on the left. The ridge was used as Kane-no-dan (meaning the bell enclosure) to control the route. This enclosure was said to be one of the oldest parts in the castle, which might have been used as a branch of Takayama Castle, the former home of the Kobayakawa Clan.

The direction board on the way
The bell enclosure is on the ridge on the left
The bell enclosure
The bell enclosure on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

The route next goes on a bridge over a river on the valley, to another ridge. The bridge might have been destroyed when a battle happened. The route goes beside the three-tiered ridge on the right, which were protected by guard houses similar to barracks. As you saw so far, the route was built strongly by using only natural terrain.

The road goes over the river on the valley
The ruins of the guard houses are on the right
The ruins of the guard houses
The guard house ruins on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

Takakage Kobayakawa hosted his father there

You will soon reach a spacious area on the middle of the mountain, called “Kyoshinji-Temple Ruins”. This temple was built in 1577 by Takakage Kobayakawa, the lord of the castle, to pray for the repose of his father, Motonari’s soul after his death. The temple was moved to another place near Mihara Castle after Nitakayama Castle was abandoned. You can still see lots of fragments of roof tiles and some remaining stones or rocks on the ground, which the temple left. In addition, the record of Motonari’s stay in this castle in 1561 says that there was a temple in the castle, where Takakage’s brother, Takamoto stayed in, and which had the same or similar name as the one mentioned above. Therefore, Historians speculate that there was also the Kaisho building, where their ceremonies were held, in this site at that time.

The ruins of Kyoshinji Temple
You can see lots of fragments of roof tiles
Some stones or rocks, used for the temple, remain
The Kyoshinji Temple Ruins on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

You can go further to the top area of the castle via a zigzagged path. You will eventually be at Naka-no-maru (meaning the central enclosure) which is placed between the main enclosure on the right (or the east) and the western enclosure on the left (or the west). This enclosure seemed to have been a pivot point of the castle. The western enclosure was built to monitor and control another route to the castle from this direction. This route is gentler than the main route you used, so many artificial vertical moats were built on the slope to prevent enemies from invading the castle easily. However, you still need to hire a guide to see them clearly because the western area has still not been developed for general visitors.

The central enclosure
The western enclosure
The central enclosure on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

Main Enclosure with few remaining Stone Walls

You will finally walk up to the main enclosure which was surrounded by stone walls using huge stones or rocks. Most of them were removed and brought to Mihara Castle when Nitakayama Castle was abandoned. However, you can still see a few remaining stone walls on its base, so you may imagine what the original stone walls looked like. The entrance of the enclosure has been built as a defensive square space, called Masugata, where the main gate building was also constructed. It was said that the building was moved to the current Koshinji Temple (now called Sokoji) as its gate. The inside of the main enclosure is an empty space, where only stone foundations remain at its corner. These foundations were probably used for the main hall or the pavilion where Takakage hosted his father.

Going to the main enclosure
The few remaining stone walls on the base
Walking up to the entrance of the main enclosure
The entrance seen from the inside, the square shape of the entrance slightly remains
The stone foundations in the main enclosure

To be continued in “Nitakayama Castle Part3”
Back to “Nitakayama Castle Part1”

173.Nitakayama Castle Part1

Ni-takayama Mountain, where Nitakayama Castle was built, is located on the western riverside of Nuta River while there is another mountain called Takayama across the river. The Kobayakawa Clan fist built their castle on Takayama, not on Ni-takayama. Takakage Kobayakawa who was its lord during the Sengoku Period moved his clan’s home to Ni-takayama.

Location and History

Kobayakawa Clan first builds Castle on Takayama Mountain

Nitakayama Castle was built and used by a great warlord, Takakage Kobayakawa on Ni-takayama Mountain along Nuta River in modern day Mihara City, Hiroshima Prefecture. The Ni-takayama (meaning the new high mountain, 198m above the sea level) is located on the western riverside of Nuta River while there is another mountain called Takayama (the high mountain, 190m high) across the river. These make a good contrast binding the river, so they are sometimes called Osu-takayama (the male mountain) as Ni-takayama and Mesu-takayama (the female mountain) as Takayama. The reason why Ni-takayama is called “male” seems to be because it is steeper than the other called “female”. In fact, the Kobayakawa Clan, Takakage’s ancestors fist built their castle on Takayama Mountain, not on Ni-takayama. Takakage moved his clan’s home to Ni-takayama for various reasons.

The range of Mihara City and the location of the castles

The relief map around the castle

The Kobayakawa Clan originally came from the Kanto Region when they served the Kamakura Shogunate during the 13th Century. The Shogunate gave them Nuta Manor after it defeated the Heike Family and Takehara Manor after the Jokyu War due to their contributions to the shogunate. The clan was eventually split into two, the Nuta-Kabayakawa Clan and the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan. Takayama Castle was built by the Nuta-Kobayakawa Clan on the Takayama Mountain as their home, but it’s not known when it was built. Both clans sometimes were in opposition of each other but usually they cooperated with each other to increase their power. They gained the force of the warriors who could battle in Geiyo Islands, which would be called Kobayakawa Navy. Their relatives became their senior vassal families, such as the Mukunashi Clan for the Nuta-Kobayakawa Clan, to support their lords.

The family crest of the Kobayakawa Clan, called “HIdari-Mitsudomoe” (licensed by BraneJ via Wikimedia Commons)

The location of Kimura Castle, the home of the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan

However, the situation became worse in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. Their province, called Aki (the western part of Hiroshima Pref.), was divided by about 30 small lords like the Kobayakawa Clans at that time. That’s why it was targeted by other great warlords, such as the Ouchi Clan from the west and the Amago Clan from the north. For example, Takayama Castle was temporarily occupied by the Ouchi Clan in 1539 and was attacked by the Amago Clan in 1543. In addition, the lords of both Kobayakawa Clans all died young which caused a lot of crisis for the clans.

The portrait of Yoshitaka Ouchi, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Ryufukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Haruhisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takakage Kobayakawa coming from Mori Clan builds Nitakayama Castle

Motonari Mori, who would become the greatest warlord in the Chugoku Region, came out as a savior (or a fund raiser for someone). He had also been a small lord of the province but eventually became the leader of the small lords. In 1543, Motonari had his son, Takakage adopted by the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan with no successor. He also consulted with the senior vassals of the Nuta-Kobayakaya Clan to make Takakage the successor of the clan as well. In 1552, they prohibited the current young and blind lord from taking over the clan. As a result, Takakage combined both Kobayakawa Clans. The first thing he did after the unification was to leave Takayama Castle and build Nitakayama Castle nearby.

The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The reasons why he did so are thought as the following; First, moving their castle would radically change the public sentiment. It would also make the retainers gather around the castle to live, which could establish a new hierarchy for Takakage. Second, the mountain, where Nitakayama Castle was built, was steeper and rockier than that of Takayama Castle (that’s why the mountains are also called “male” and “female”.), so it would be stronger. Finally, the foot of the mountain was along the river, which would be convenient for the Kobayakawa Clan to use for water transportation on the Nuta River to Seto Inland Sea.

Nitakayama Mountain on the left and Takayama Mountain on the right, seen from the riverside of the Nuta River

Castle works as Cultural Center as well

A record of the clan says Motonari stayed in Nitakayama Castle for 10 days in 1561. Takakage invited his father to celebrate becoming the governor of Mutsu Province in 1560. They held ceremonies and parties with their retainers, families and servants in the castle during that time. According to the record, there was a building used for hosting guests, called “Kaisho”, on the middle slope of the mountain. They enjoyed seeing “Noh” plays from its reception room and played “Kemari” football at its garden. Historians speculate that there was also a public ceremony hall, called “Shuden”, and kitchens, which were usually a set with the Kaisho building at that time. Motonari and Takakage also joined a Renga poem party at a pavilion on the top. Takakage also held a reading party of Taiheiki historical epic and a tea ceremony. That meant the castle had a library and a tearoom. Overall, the site was not only a castle for battles, but also a cultural center of the surrounding area.

The ruins of Koshinji Temple Ruins, which once had the Kaisho building, at the middle slope of Nitakayama Mountain

Takakage was not only a son of a great father, but also a great warlord himself. After Motonari died, he continued supporting his parents’ home, the Mori Clan to survive during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Hideyoshi relied on Takakage and his Kobayakawa Navy to complete his unification and his attempt to invade China and Korea. Takakage finally became an independent lord with large territories and was a member of Counsel of Five Elders under Hideyoshi’s government. Meanwhile, he built Mihara Castle in the estuary of the Nuta River as a naval base. As time passed, the castle continued growing. When he retired in 1596, he set Mihara Castle as his home while Nitakayama Castle was eventually abandoned. Its waste materials, such as those of stone walls, were brought over and reused for Mihara Castle.

The ruins of Mihara Castle
The current Nitakayama Mountain

To be continued in “Nitakayama Castle Part2”