main enclosure – ページ 33 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

91.Shimabara Castle Part2

The castle looks like a battleship.

Features

You can feel power of nature

Shimabara City, which owns Shimabara Castle, is located on the skirts of Mt. Unzen. If you walk around the city area, you will notice the particular geography. The hill called Moritake, where Shimabara Castle was built, was created by the explosion of Mt. Mayuyama about 4,000 years ago. You can feel the power of nature there. If you also walk around the castle, it conserved its appearance with the great stone walls surrounded by the Inner Moat and some restored castle buildings. In particular, the high stone walls remain in good condition, so you can see the line of the walls is folded like a folding screen. The castle may be compact, but strongly built, looking like a battleship.

walking on the slope of the skirt from the city area to the castle

Shimabara Castle looks like a battleship

Collaboration of remaining Stone Walls and rebuilt Buildings

The area inside the original Inner Moat, including the Main and Second Enclosures, is designated as a historic site by Nagasaki Prefecture and is developed as a historical park. If you drive to the castle site, you can easily enter the Main Enclosure by crossing the earthen bridge, built in the present time, and park inside it.

The aerial photo around the castle

Great View from rebuilt high Main Tower

The rebuilt five-level Main Tower stands out with its 33-meter height, the third tallest existing Main Tower in Japan. It is actually a modern building used as a museum and observation platform. Inside the tower, you can learn more about the history of the castle and the Shimabara Rebellion. On the top floor, you can enjoy see a great 360-degree view of the city. For example, Mt. Aso on Kyushu Island over Ariake Sea in the east. The Main, Second and Third Enclosures form in a line in the north. You can also see Mt. Mayuyama with Mt. Unzen behind it in the west.

A view of the eastern side from the tower

A view of the northern side from the tower

A view of the western side from the tower

Exhibition of rebuilt Turret

The Main Enclosure has more attractions. The three rebuilt turrets also have distinct exhibitions. For example, one of the turrets, called Tatsumi Turret, is used as an art gallery dedicated to a local famous sculptor, Seibo Kitamura. You can see his representative statue works such as the Peace Statue (the reduced version of that in Nagasaki Peace Park) inside. You can even see his other works outside such as the statues of Shiro Amakusa, who led the Shimabara Rebellion, and a young Nobunaga Oda, who was a great warlord in central Japan.

To be continued in “Shimabara Castle Part3”
Back to “Shimabara Castle Part1”

91.Shimabara Castle Part1

A castle sharing the fate of the Shimabara Rebellion

Location and History

Matsukura Clan builds Castle as their Home base

Shimabara Castle is located in the Shimabara Peninsula, the western part of the Kyushu Region. The Arima Clan basically governed the area around the peninsula in the Middle Ages. Harunobu Arima, the lord of the clan in the late 16th Century, was known as a Christian feudal lord. Because of that, Christianity spread around the peninsula greatly. However, he was punished by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1612. His son was also transferred to another place in 1614. After that, Shigemasa Matsukura was appointed to the lord of the Shimabara Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1616. He first lived in Hinoe Castle, where the Arima Clan lived, but soon decided to build a new castle as his home base, known as Shimabara Castle and completed in 1624.

The location of the castle

The replica of the statue of Harunobu Arima, exhibited by Arima Christian Heritage Museum, the original statue is owned by Daiunji Temple

The Shimabara Domain was a relatively a small domain which earned 43,000 koku of rice. However, the castle was said to be worth that of a domain with 100,000 koku of rice. That meant the people in the Shimabara Domain suffered high taxes and worked hard to build the castle. The castle had three enclosures in a line from the south to the north. The Main and Second Enclosures were in the Inner Moat and both were connected by only the roofed Passage Bridge called Roka-bashi. If enemies from the outside wanted to attack the Main Enclosure, they had to first enter the entrance of the Second Enclosure.

Part of Illustration of Shimabara Castle and environs with my comments, owned by Kumamoto Prefectural Library, exhibited by Shimabara Castle

High Stone Walls and Five leveled Main Tower

All the enclosures were also surrounded by zigzagging high stone walls allowing the defenders to eliminate blind spots and make a flank attack. In particular, the Main Enclosure had the Main Tower and eleven turrets. The Main Tower had five levels and was built in a typical method called Multi-storied type. Other Main Towers in other castles usually had decorations such as gables and bell-shaped windows. The Main Tower of Shimabara Castle simply had square floors diminishing towards the top with minimal roofing. This method made building the tower more efficient and also easy to protect.

The restored Multi-storied type Main Tower

Shimabara Rebellion occurs due to Matsukura Clan’s oppression

Shigemasa oppressed the people in his territory with heavy taxes to have more income. After the Tokugawa Shogunate banned people from being Christians, he tortured them if they didn’t convert. His way seemed to be loyal to the shogunate. After he died in 1630, his son, Katsuie rapidly followed in his father’s footsteps. People, including the Christians in Shimabara Peninsula, were angry and started the Shimabara Rebellion in 1637. They first attacked Shimabara Castle. They were professionally trained by the masterless warriors who were former retainers of the Arima Clan. Katsuie was not in the castle but in Edo, however, his retainers repelled the uprising army. The castle ironically proved its strength by fighting against the citizens.

The figures showing Matsukura Clan’s oppression, exhibited by *Arima Christian Heritage Museum*

Otemon Battle in Shimabara Uprising, exhibited by Shimabara Castle

The uprising people were defeated after they were besieged in Hara Castle for three months. The shogunate banned the Matsukura Clan from ruling over the Shimabara Domain. Katsuie Matsukura was executed due to his misgovernment. After that, several clans governed the domain and Shimabara Castle by the end of the Edo Period. In 1792, when the Matsudaira Clan governed, a great natural disaster known as Shimabara Taihen happened. An earthquake and eruption from Mt. Unzen caused the collapse of Mt. Mayuyama in front of it. The debris flowing from the mountain killed a lot of people and the castle was also partly destroyed by the earthquake.

Part of the folding screens of Shimabara Rebellion, owned by Asakura City Akizuki Museum, from the exhibition of Arima Christian Heritage Museum

A drawing of Shimabara Taihen, exhibited by Shimabara Castle

To be continued in “Shimabara Castle Part2”

188.Hara Castle Part2

You can see the extensive castle ruins.

Features

Large hills and valleys in Castle Ruins

Today, the ruins of Hara Castle are still large with a perimeter of about 4km. The Main Enclosure has mainly been public owned and developed for visitors. The many other areas of the ruins, including the Second and Third Enclosures, are private owned and used as fields. If you walk around and look over the ruins, you can find the large hills and valleys and picture the castle remains. Generally, enclosures of many castles in Japan usually worked closely with each other. However, looking at the enclosures of Hara Castle, they seemed to work independently like a modern fortress. This may be the reason why that the uprising army fought had as equals with the shogunate.

The Main Enclosure has been developed as a historic site

The Second and Third Enclosures have become fields

Looking up the ruins from the bottom of a valley

Walking around Second and Third Enclosures

If you drive to the ruins, you will park at the parking lot between the Second and Third Enclosures beside the sea. You will have to walk for about 800m from the parking lot to the Main Enclosure. During the walk, you can see how large the castle was. If you turn right at the first intersection after passing the ruins of the Main Gate, you will reach the monument of Shigemasa Itakura at the Third Enclosure. He was shot and killed here in the first phase of the Shimabara Rebellion.

The map around the castle

The first intersection from the parking lot to the Main Enclosure

Going back to the route leading to the Main Enclosure, you will see the spacious Second Enclosure on the left and its Barbican on the right. Locals say the bones of as many as 20,000 uprising people are still buried under the fields.

The Second Enclosure Barbican is the right side of the valley

One of the Greatest Main Enclosure Entrances

As you approach the Main Enclosure, you will see its great stone walls still surrounding it. However, they were to be excavated after being almost buried by the shogunate. Even historians did not expect the castle had to have such great stone walls. Of course, the stone walls were much higher before the destruction.

The map around the Main Enclosure, the red line shows the estimated route in the entrance

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure, which were discovered by the excavation

Its entrance, called Koguchi, was also excavated and has been developed for visitors. In fact, this is where the bones of the killed uprising people, which were buried with the stone walls, were found. It had large connected square spaces, called Masugata, forming a maze protecting the entrance. Historians speculate that visitors in the past had to turn 5 to 10 times in the entrance to enter the enclosure. The excavation discovered that the Koguchi entrance of Hara Castle was one of the largest examples of those ever found in Japan.

The replica of the excavation site, exhibited by Arima Christian Heritage Museum

The ruins of the Uzumi-mon Gate inside the entrance

Inside of Main Enclosure has become Square

The inside of the Main Enclosure is basically a square now. There are the ruins of the Main Enclosure Gate, the Turret base, and the Ikejiri-guchi Gate along the perimeter. There are also the monument of the Shimabara Rebellion, the statue of Shiro Amakusa, and so on. This enclosure stands on the steep cliff by the sea, so you can enjoy a great view of Ariake Sea, and Mt. Unzen in the distance.

A view of Ariake Sea from the Main Enclosure

A view of the ruins and Mt. Unzen from the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Hara Part3”
Back to “Hara Castle Part1”