57.Sasayama Castle Part2

Visiting the main portion of the castle

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Sasayama Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings, except for O-shoin or the Large Study Hall out of the Main Hall, were demolished. The hall was used as a school and a community center for a while, however, it was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire in 1944. After World War II, the Inner Moat out of the double water moats was filled to became a normal park. However, since the castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1956, the trend changed. Tanba-Sasayama City has been developing the ruins as a historical site such as the hall being restored in 2000 and the moat being dug up again.

The photo of the Large Study Hall, in 1943, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Large Study Hall which was restored in 2000
The Inner Moat which was dug up again

Features

From Main Gate Ruins to Main Portion

Today, the ruins of Sasayama Castle have been developed by Tanba-Sasayama City with the remaining warriors’ houses and the castle town atmosphere. Visitors usually first visit the Main Gate Ruins in the north in front of the Outer Moat. Unfortunately, the gate and its Umadashi system were destroyed, so only their traces remain now.

The ruins of Umadashi system on the Main Route

The aerial photo around the castle

If you walk the path to the center of the ruins passing the Outer and Inner Moats, you will reach the ruins of the Front Gate and Kurogane-mon or the Iron Gate, the entrance of the main portion. These ruins are still surrounded by stone walls of double Masugata system, which you can imagine the main gate had a similar system to it.

The Onter Moat at the northern side
The path over the Outer Moat
The area around the former Main Gate
The earthen bridge over the inner Moat
The ruins of the Front Gate, which has the first Masugata system behind
Going to the second Masugata system
The ruins of the Iron Gate

Restored Large Study Hall in Second Enclosure

The main portion has the Second Enclosure in the front and the Main Enclosure in the back. You can enter the restored Large Study Hall with the historical museum. You will first get in the museum where you can learn the history of the castle

The entrance of the historical museum
One of the exhibitions in the museum

Then, go in the hall where you can experience what it looked like in the past. The Large Study Hall was used for public ceremonies which has an impressive large hip-and-gable roof above the front entrance. Visitors enter it not from the front but from the side and walk around the corridors surrounding the rooms. There are eight rooms inside such as Honored Guest Room, Dark Room for storing, and Tiger Room for waiting.

The front side of the Large Study Hall
Visitors enter the hall form the right side
The Tiger Room
Here is the inside of the front entrance
The Honored Guest Room

There are also the flat exhibitions of the residential area for the lord and the ruins of Uzume-mon or the Small Back Gate behind the hall.

The flat exhibitions of the residential area in the Second Enclosure
The ruins of the Small Back Gate

Stone Wall Base for Main Tower with Viewing Spot

The Main Enclosure is the highest point of the castle. The inside of it looked to be a square during the Edo Period, but the Aoyama Shrine, which worships the Aoyama Clan, the last lord family of the castle, has been there since its launch in 1882.

The Second Enclosure in the front, the Main Enclosure in the back
The Aoyama Shrine in the Main Enclosure

The large stone wall base for the Main Tower is at a corner of the enclosure, which is a good viewing spot of the city area. You can also see a triangle-shaped Takashiroyama-Mountain in the distance, where the ruins of Yagami Castle, which was active in the Sengoku Period, is. The stone wall base had a very small single turret for its scale at the edge during the Edo Period.

The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The top of the base
The ruins of Ygami Castle
The appearance of the Main Enclosure during the Edo Period, exhibited by the historical museum in the Large Study Hall of Sasayama Castle

To be continued in “Sasayama Castle Part3”
Back to “Sasayama Castle Part1”

81.Matsuyama Castle Part2

The long way to the Main Tower

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, The buildings at the foot of the mountain were demolished or burned by accidental fires. The Japanese Army used the area including the Second and Third Enclosures at the foot. After the World War II, the area was used as public facilities such as the civic hall, an NHK broadband station, a museum, a library, a hospital, a school, and playgrounds. The Second Enclosure was finally developed as Ninomaru Historical Garden in 1992 after the hospital and school moving to others. It looks like the original Main Hall with repaired stone walls and restored walls when you look it from the outside. The Third Enclosure has been developing as a public park with a large square which can be used for events. Excavation has also been done to find out the castle’s history after the playgrounds had been moved.

The aerial photo around the castle in the 1970’s

The perimeter of the restored Second Enclosure
The inside of the Second Enclosure has become a garden
The former site of a playground at the Third Enclosure
The Third Enclosure has become a square

On the other hand, many buildings on the mountain including the Main Tower remained. There were 44 buildings in the beginning of 1933. However, they were reduced by an arson in the same year to 35, by an air raid in 1945 to 24, and finally by another arson in 1949 to 21. Matsuyama City designated the 21 buildings as Important Cultural Properties in 1950 and started to restore other buildings in 1958. So far, 31 buildings were restored by 1992 in the original method, mostly using wooden materials. That means the number of the buildings became larger than 1933. In addition, the whole range of the castle, called the Shiroyama Park, has been designated as a National Historic Site since 1952.

The remaining or restored buildings of Matsuyama Castle on the mountain

Features

Going on Kuromon Route to Top

Today, visitors can choose four routes to visit Matsuyama Castle on the mountain. The most popular one is the Shinonome Route where visitors can use a cable car or lift and get around the top easily. However, if you are a history fan, I recommend visiting it by walking on the Kuromon Route which was the Main Route to the castle.

The location map of the mountain, from the signboard at the site, adding the red English letters

The route starts from the back of the Third Enclosure and passes by the Second Enclosure where the Main Hall was. There are no buildings remaining on the route, but it is still surrounded by great stone walls. First of all, you need to turn five times to go through the three gate ruins of Kuromon or The Black Gate, Tsuga-mon or the Hemlock Gate, and Keyaki-mon or the Zelkova Gate. Then you will enter the zigzagging trail partly with original stone steps to the top.

The map around the Kuromon RouteBlack Gate

The ruins of the Black Gate, the starting point of the route
The ruins of the Hemlock Gate
The route goes by the Second Enclosure on the right
The ruins of the Zelkova Gate
The trail to the top

Strong Defense system around Main Gate

You will eventually reach the Main Gate Ruins near the top. You will also see the great high stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure and many other visitors who used a cable car or lift. This is the meeting point with the Shinonome Route.

The map around the Main Enclosure

Arriving at the ruins of the Main Gate
The high stone walls of the Main Enclosure

Next, you will go on the path towards the direction where you can see the Main Tower, but it is a dead end and a trap for enemies, you have to turn at 180 degrees to enter the Main Enclosure (the dead end is not allowed to enter). Next comes the remaining Tonashi-mon or the Doorless Gate, which was probably built to lure enemies. Enemies would be confused around there.

You can see the Main Tower ahead
The path towards the tower is a dead end
You have to turn at 180 degrees to the next
The Doorless Gate

Then, you will see the restored Tsutui-mon Gate which looks like a single gate. In fact, there is also the remaining Kakure-mon or the Hidden Gate next to it, so the defenders would counterattack the enemies from the gate.

Tsutui-mon Gate
The Hidden Gate
The back side of Tsutui-mon Gate (on the right) and the Hidden Gate (on the left)

Great views from Main Enclosure

After that, you will finally arrive at the Main Enclosure going through the restored Taiko-mon or the Drum Gate. The center of the enclosure looks a square, and there are the restored well, Tatsumi-Yagura or the Southeast Turret and Bagu-Yagura or the Harness Turret around. This is definitely a good view spot for the Main Tower and the area around including Matsuyama City and Seto Inland Sea.

The Drum Gate
The well
The inside of the Main Enclosure
A view of the Main Tower
A view of Matsuyama city area from the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Matsuyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Matsuyama Castle Part1”

129.Tatsuoka Castle Part3

The renovated landmark will come.

Later History

Tatsuoka Castle was eventually abandoned in 1871. All the buildings of the castle excluding the Kitchen House were sold and demolished. Its stone walls and water moats were buried to be used as the school and fields. Norikata Matsudaira, the founder of the castle, changed his name to Yuzuru Ogyu, throwing the outdated family name “Matsudaira” away. He helped the establishment of the former Japanese Red Cross Society, called Hakuaisha, in the Meiji Era.

This photo was taken after he changed his name to Yuzuru Ogyu (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The drawing that Prince Arisugawa Taruhito grants Sano Tsunetami the permission to create Hakuaisha, attributed to Takeo Terasaki (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The drawing that Prince Arisugawa Taruhito grants Sano Tsunetami the permission to create Hakuaisha, attributed to Takeo Terasaki

People in Tatsuoka started to restore the castle ruins in 1932 by digging the moats up and repairing the stone walls. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1934 while the bridge in front of the Main Gate Ruins was restored at the same time. In addition, the Taguchi Primary School in the ruins has just closed in March, 2023 due to the school integration. Saku City, which owns the ruins, is thinking about restoring the castle as much as in the Edo Period after the closing. It plans to restore the Main Gate in the near future as well. It is also considering to restore the Main Hall by moving the Kitchen House to its original position, re-building some missing structures, and asking the owners of some removed buildings to return them to their original positions.

The water moats of Tatsuoka Castle
The Main Gate Ruins

My Impression

I guess if a battle happened, Norikata would not use Tatsuoka Castle for the battle. Instead, he would use the former Taguchi Castle which could easily target Tatsuoka Castle. When the enemy reached the castle, he would counterattack it. Tatsuoka Castle was an outstanding landmark which could easily pull the enemy in. That is my speculation. I am looking forward to how the new Tatsuoka Castle will appear in the future.

Tatsuoka Castle Ruins seen from Taguchi Castle Ruins (the observation platform)

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about a 20-minute drive away from Saku-minami IC on the Chubu-odan Expressway. There are several parking lots around the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from JR Usuda or Tatsuokajo Station.
To get to Usuda of Tatsuokajo Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Koume Line at Sakudaira Station.

The parking lot beside the information center

In addition, if you want to visit the Goryokaku observation platform, go on Nagano Prefectural Road 120 from the castle ruins to the north for about 500m. Once you see the signpost of the platform, turn right. The platform is 2.1km away from it along the forest road. You can reach it by following other signposts. If you drive there, you will need a small off-road vehicle to be able to reach the top. If not, you can park around the first signpost.

Nagano Prefectural Road 120
The entrance to the platform
The parking lot near the entrance is on the right
Going on the forest road
The parking lot near the platform

That’s all. Thank you.
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