second enclosure – ページ 10 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

72.Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part3

Motonari might have been a great lord as well as a prophet.

Features

Main Portion of Castle

The Third and Second Enclosures had each alternative entrance called Koguchi to avoid enemies from entering easily. You can still see their traces today. The Third Enclosure is the largest one in the castle.

The map around the main portion of the castle

The entrance ruins of the Third Enclosure

Looking down the stone walls of the Third Enclosure

The Second Enclosure also had stone walls, but it was said that their stones were partially taken to use for Motonari’s grave during the Meiji Era as well.

The Main Enclosure is highest in the castle. It was thought that it had Motonari’s residence and a lookout tower. Unfortunately, the view from there today is not clear because it is covered by trees.

Going to Main Castle though Ozaki-maru Enclosure

The tour route will eventually lead you to Ozaki-maru Enclosure where Motonari’s son, Takamoto lived by climbing down along another ridge. This enclosure is still separated by an artificial ditch from the others. Others were said to have been divided by each other in the same way. A viewing spot is nearby to see the area around the mountain.

The map around the castle

Climbing down towards the edge of another ridge

The remaining ditch beside Ozaki-maru Enclosure

The viewing spot which could have been an enclosure

Finally, you will be at the intersection to the starting point or the Main Castle where Motonari and Takamoto originally lived in. I recommend visiting the Main Castle if you have time. This is the only route to it, so you will have to continue to climb down on the steep ridge to the edge of it. You will also see several ditches to avoid enemies from attacking from the back. You will eventually arrive at the Main Castle which is much lower and smaller than so many other enclosures on the top. Its name originates from the original main portion of the castle. You will realize what the Mori Clan was developing with this castle. To return to the starting point, you will need to climb up the same steep ridge. You will also realize why Takamoto wanted to move near the top from there.

Looking down the edge of the ditch from the enclosure

My Impression

Perhaps I shouldn’t say this, but I honestly felt that it was incredible that such a great warlord came from such a local location when visiting the Yoshida town of Aki-Takada City which owns the ruins of Yoshida-Koriyama Castle. That probably proves why Motonari Mori was an outstanding leader. In addition, Motonari also managed to persuade his children not to get more territory than him. However, his grandchild, Terumoto wanted to be the ruler of Japan in the Battle of Sekigahara but failed. That’s why he had to leave Aki Province where he was originally from. Motonari might have also been a great prophet.

The remaining earthen walls of the Warehouses Ruins

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins because there are only a few trains and buses available. It is about a 20-minute drive away from Takada IC on the Chugoku Expressway. There is a parking lots at the foot of the mountain.

That’s all. Thank you.
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74.Iwakuni Castle Part2

Let us try to look into more of the castle.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, the residence at the foot of the mountain was turned into the Kikko Park in 1885. Kintaikyo Bridge survived for 277 years, however it was flown out because of the flood caused by Kezia Typhoon in 1950. People in Iwakuni City restored the bridge in the original method in 1953. It was rebuilt again in 2004 due to deterioration. That’s why it still looks new. It has been designated as a National Scenic Spot since 1922.

As for Iwakuni Castle, the Main Tower on the mountain was rebuilt in 1963, but its position was moved by about 50m from the original in ordered to be more well seen from the foot with the bridge. The cable car between the foot and the top also opened in 1964 which has been boosting tourism.

The present Main Tower of Iwakuni Castle which can be seen from the foot

Features

From Kintaikyo Bridge to Rebuilt Main Tower

For visitors who visit the area around Iwakuni Castle site today, the castle itself might not be popular for them. They probably want to see and walk across Kintaikyo Bridge first. They can also ride a cable car to the top of the mountain to enjoy the great view of the area including the bridge. Visiting the rebuilt Main Tower may be their third option because they can get a better view of the bridge from the foot. However, if you try to look into more of the castle, you can find new perspectives of it.

A view of Kintaikyo bridge from the top of the mountain

After arriving at the platform of the cable car, you will find the guide plate of the two routes to the castle. The guide plate recommends taking the left road, but I suggest taking the right road. This is because the path on the right leads you the front side of the castle. You will see the edge of the remaining stone walls with triangular stones on the right side of the trail. You can also see the great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left. As you go further, the Barbican Enclosure overhangs in front of you. It has a defensive square space called Masugata inside which was the Main Gate of the castle. The inside of the Gate Ruins is the Second Enclosure which is used as a modern rock garden, modified in the present time.

The map around the castle

The guide plate recommends the left wide road

The stone walls below the Second Enclosure

The stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure overhangs

Rebuilt Main Tower and Original Main Tower Base

The Main Enclosure is next to the Second Enclosure in the north. The restored Main Tower stands out in front of you. The tower probably has a similar appearance to the original one because its designer used the cross section drawing which was said to come from the original. It has four levels with the third one of which hanging out. This type of Main Towers was rare, called Nanban-zukuri or the Western Style. The tower is actually a modern building which is used as a historical museum and an observation platform. The original stone wall base for the Main Tower was also restored in the original position according to the excavation.

The Main Enclosure including the rebuilt Main Tower seen from the Second Enclosure

The explanation about the cross section drawing of the Main Tower, exhibited by Iwakuni Castle

To be continued in “Iwakuni Castle Part3”
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170.Hamada Castle Part3

Castles look very different depending on people’s perspectives.

Features for History Fans

From Approach Entrance to Nakanomon Gate Ruins

For serious history fans, consider getting back to the starting point of the shrine approach. Let us seek together the original route to the Nakanomon Gate Ruins which we talked about above. The foot had the Main Hall and warriors’ houses and turned into residential areas, so you will need to follow narrow paths among the modern houses. Then the large stone walls of the gate will suddenly appear. These walls are original and they look so great, but are partially covered with wiring nets to prevent them from collapsing.

The map around the casltle, the red broken line is the estimated original route

The shrine approach on the left and the residential area on the right

The narrow path among the residential area

the stone walls of the gate suddenly appears

The stone walls are partially covered with wiring nets

After passing the gate ruins, you will go on a promenade along the valley probably similar to the original route while seeing old stone walls around. You will eventually reach the mid slope beside the shrine.

The promenade which is nearly on the original route

You can see some old stone walls beside the promenade

Going through Third and Second Enclosures

Let us pass the gate building and turn left again, but make sure not to go straight, instead, turn right this time. You can begin now to enter the two tiers of enclosures, surrounded by stone walls, which are original. However, these walls were piled up again during the Showa Era. It was said that the stones for the walls had collapsed before the repair. The lower tier is the Third Enclosure, and the upper is the Second Enclosure. The Second Gate was built between them. A square defensive space called Masugata which was also behind the gate where you can still see the same shape. You will finally reach the Main Enclosure as well from the Second Enclosure passing by the First Gate Ruins.

The restored image by CG of the Second Gate, from the signboard at the site

The square defensive space behind the gate

The ruins of the First Gate to the Main Enclosure

My Impression

After visiting the ruins of Hamada Castle, I realized that people would have different impressions from the same place depending on their purposes such as relaxing or learning about history. I think this idea was similar to the people in the past. Records show that after the warriors in Hamada Castle had gone, children played in the remaining Main Tower until it finally collapsed during the earthquake. There were also very different impressions about the castle between the warriors (the high class) and local people (the low class).

The area around the Main Tower base ruins

The restored image by CG of the Main Enclosure, from the signboard at the site

How to get There

If you want to visit Hamada Castle Ruins by car, it is about a 15-minute drive away from Hamada IC on the Chugoku Expressway. There are parking lots in the western and southern sides of the ruins.
By public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from JR Hamada Station to get there.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend traveling by plane, using an express bus or combining them with trains.

The parking lot in the western side of the ruins

That’s all. Thank you.
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