105.Shiroishi Castle Part1

Each independent lord was not allowed to have castles, excluding the only one the lord lived in, by the shogunate. However, Shiroishi Castle, where the Katakura Clan as a retainer lived in, remained as an exemption. This was probably due to Date’s strong influence as well as Katakura’s contributions.

Location and History

Castle owned by Katakura Clan, Senior Vassal of Date Clan

Shiroishi Castle is located in modern day Shiroishi City at the southern edge of Miyagi Prefecture. It was also located in the southern edge of the Date Clan’s territory during the Edo Period. The lords of the clan had the area around the castle being governed by their trusted senior vassal family, the Katakura Clan all through the period. The castle had a three level turret called the Large Turret which was actually equivalent to the Main Tower. That’s why the castle looked like a symbol of an independent lord.

The range of MIyagi Prefecture, the range of the Sendai Domain was larger than the prefecture

The restored Main Tower of Matsumoto Castle

The founder of the Katakura Clan, Kagetsuna Katakura served his master, Masamune Date from his childhood because Kagetsuna’s older sister, Kita became Masamune’s foster mother. Since then, Kagetsuna contributed to Masamune becoming the greatest warlord in the Tohoku Region during the late 16th Century by joining many battles and being a diplomatic agent with other warlords. When the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the Kanto Region to complete his unification of Japan in 1590, Masamune was wondering if he should follow Hideyoshi or not. Kagetsuna advised Masamune to do so, and as a result, they were able to survive. Masamune eventually gave Kagetsuna the important Shiroishi area in 1602 after the Date Clan’s territory was fixed as the Sendai Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Kagetsuna Katakura, owned by Sendai City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masamune Date, owned by Sendai City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kagetsuna’s son, Shigenaga was very active in the summer campaign of the Siege of Osaka in 1615 where the shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan. There is a heroic story about him and his rival, Nobushige Sanada. They once fought each other in the battle, but Nobushige sent a letter (affixed to an arrow) to Shigenaga, which asked him to accommodate Nobushige’s children before his death. Kagetsuna accepted it, and then, Oume, Nobushige’s daughter would be Shigenaga’s second wife and another son, Daihachi would be a retainer of the Sendai Domain. One theory seems to be that Shigenaga took Oume away from Osaka Castle when it was falling and accommodated the other children when they later visited her in Shiroishi Castle. In either case, Shigenaga must have been a man of great capacity.

The portrait of Shigenaga Katakura, drawn in a Ukiyoe-painting, attributed to Yoshiiku Ochiai (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobushige Sanada, owned by Ueda City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle survives as exemption of One Castle per Province

Shigenaga’s successor, Kagenaga was also important for the domain. When an internal trouble of the Date Clan, called Date-sodo (feud), happened in 1671, the government of the domain got out of control due to a bloody affair at the shogunate court in Edo. Kagenaga stayed local to keep other retainers calm and kept the government. These events were decisive for the position of the Katakura Clan. In addition, each independent lord was not allowed to have castles, excluding the only one the lord lived in, by the shogunate. However, Shiroishi Castle, where the Katakura Clan as a retainer lived in, remained as an exemption. This was probably due to Date’s strong influence as well as Katakura’s contributions.

The ruins of Sendai Castle, the home of the Date Clan

Castle is completed by Gamo and Katakura Clans

As for Shiroishi Castle itself, it is uncertain when it was first built, but it was considered an important strategic location for transportation. After the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, Satonari Gamo, a senior vassal of the clan owned and modernized the castle by building stone walls and the Main Tower. He would later improve several other castles like Kasama Castle, which can be seen as a hidden master of castle constructions. The Katakura Clan lived and improved the castle more based on the essential structures Satonari built.

The ruins of Kasama Castle

The castle had several enclosures on a hill. The Main Enclosure on the top had the main buildings of the castle, such as the three-level Main Tower, Main Gate, Back Gate, Main Hall, and two two-level turrets. They were exactly the same items as what other independent lords had. However, the Main Hall also had an interesting feature. The hall had two front entrances, one for locals and the other only for the lord of the Date Clan, the master of the Katakura Clan. The hall also had the rooms, called Onari-goten, where only the lord could stay.

The miniature model of Kasama Castle, exhibited by Shiroishi Castle History Museum
The miniature model of the main enclosure of Shiroishi Castle
The part of the Main Hall in the miniature model above, the entrance for the locals is marked by the blue circle and that only for the lord of the domain is marked by the red circle

The Katakura Clan also developed the castle town below the hill, where the retainers and other citizens lived in. Waterways were also developed in the town for defensive purposes and living. For example, there were Samurai residences in the Third Enclosure, part of the town, which was surrounded by the Sawabata River and the waterways. The residences were relatively smaller than other residences of independent domains. This was because the retainers under the Katakura Clan had lower incomes than those who served independent lords.

Part of the Illustration of Shiroishi Castle in the Sendai Domain, Oshu Region, the third enclosure along the Sawabata River is in the front, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
The remaining Samurai residence along the Sawabata River

One of stages of Meiji Restoration

In 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, an important event happened to the castle again. Many domains against the New Government in the Tohoku Region held the Shiroishi Meeting in the castle. This was because the Sendai Domain was their leader and the castle could also be a hub for them. This event would be the trigger for the Boshin War between the government and the domains. However, the castle was eventually opened as its real master, the Sendai Domain had surrendered to the government.

The current Shiroishi Castle

To be continued in “Shiroishi Castle Part2”

105.白石城(Shiroishi Castle)

復元された白石城天守(The restored Tenshu of Shiroishi Castle)

Location and History

白石城は、宮城県南端の白石市にあります。この地域は、江戸時代にはまた仙台藩の南端にもあたりました。この城は、中世初期には築かれたと言われています。それ以来、この城の城主は何度も入れ替わりました。その位、この地域は重要な所だったのです。戦国時代の終わりには、ついには伊達氏がこの城を手に入れました。伊達氏は、重臣の片倉氏をこの城に据えました。この城の天守を含む構成は、この時期に整備されました。
The Shiroishi castle is located in Shiroishi city, in the southern tip of Miyagi prefecture. The area was also in the southern tip of the feudal domain of Sendai in the Edo period. It is said that the castle was built in the early Middle Ages. Since then, the lords of the castle were changed several times because of the importance of the area. Finally, the castle belonged to the Date clan at the end of the Civil War period. They placed their senior vassals, the Katakuka clan, as the lord of the castle. The structures of the castle, including the keep tower “Tenshu” were developed then.

白石市の宮城県内での位置(The position of Shiroishi City in Miyagi pref.)
仙台藩は宮城県より大きな領地でした。(Sendai Domain had a larger territory than Miyagi pref.)

しかし、徳川幕府が確立されると、幕府は各藩主に本拠地の城以外は一切認めないとの命令を下しました(一国一城令)。この命令によれば、白石城は撤去されるべき存在でした。ところが、この城は例外として生き残ることができたのです。それは恐らく伊達氏の強い影響力によるものだったのでしょう。片倉氏は、江戸時代を通じてこの城と周りの地域を支配しました。二番目の城としての立場が考慮されてか、天守は「天守」とは呼ばれず、「大櫓」と呼ばれました。何度か災害や火災には遭ったのですが、城は再建と修理により維持されました。しかしついには明治維新後に、城は石垣をも含めて解体され売却されてしましました。
But, after the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, it ordered all of the domain lords to restrict all castles to no more than the one in their home ground (The law of one castle per province). According to this order, the Shiroishi castle was to be demolished. However, the castle remained as an exemption probably because of Date’s strong influence. Katakuka governed the castle and the surrounding area all through the Edo period. Considering the spot of the second castle, the keep tower was not called “Tenshu” but “Oyagura” which means large turret. Despite several disasters and fires, the castle was kept through reconstruction and maintenance. After the Meiji restoration, the castle was demolished and sold, including its stone walls, in the end.

奥州仙台領白石城絵図部分、江戸時代(Part of the illustration of Shiroishi Castle in Oshu-Sendai Domain in Edo Period)|出典:国立公文書館

Features

白石城には今、木造復元された天守と大手門があります。この復元は、発掘の成果や古絵図から考証されました。
Shiroishi castle now has a restored wooden Tenshu and main gate “Otemon”. The restoration was planned from excavation, old paintings and drawings.

復元された大手門(The restored Otemon)

特に天守の場合には、石垣までもが復元されました。「野面積み」という自然石を積み上げる、築城時と同じ方法により作られたのです。
Especially in the case of Tenshu, even its stone walls were restored. They are made in the original way from piled-up field stones called “Nodurazumi”.

復元された石垣(The restored stone walls)taken by あけび from photo AC

実は、日本の建築基準法はこの天守のような新築の巨大な木造建築を認めていません。しかし今回のケースは例外として認められたのです。ビジターは天守の中にも入ることができます。
Actually, Japan’s Building Standard Act prohibits the building of such a new large wooden building like the Tenshu, but the act allowed it to be built as exemption at this time. Visitors can enter the inside of Tenshu.

天守の内部、二階部分(The inside of Tenshu, the second floor)

この建物は明らかに伝統的な木造建築であるのですが、最近の建物の中にいるようなくつろいだ雰囲気を感じます。これは多分、部屋の中が明るく、階段も広く急でない作りになっているなどの理由によるのでしょう。設計者や大工の人たちが、細かいところで快適さが増すよう配慮しているように思います。
Though it is certainly a traditional wooden style building, you may feel relaxed like in a modern style building. This is probably because the inside is bright, the stairs are wide and not steep and so on. It seems like designers and carpenters made details more comfortable.

今風に作られた階段(The modernized stairs)
天守の三階部分(The third floor of Tenshu)
天守からの眺め、左下は大手門(A view from Tenshu, Otemon at the lower left)

Later Life

空になった城跡は公園となり、いつしか桜の名所として知られるようになりました。しかし白石市の人々は長い間、城を再建するよう行政側に強く求めてきました。予算や細部をどう作り込むかなどいくつか問題はありましたが、市の市長は1988年に再建することを決断しました。
The vacant castle ruins were turned into a park which has became famous for cherry blossoms for some time, but the people in Shiroishi city had urged officials to rebuild the castle for a long time. Though there would be problems like the budget ,the way of making details and so on, the mayor of the city decided to do that in 1988.

復元された白石城天守(The restored Tenshu of Shiroishi Castle)

この再建においてもっと重要なトピックの一つは、城が伝統的な木造による工法で復元されたことでした。この出来事は、日本における城を維持する方法に新しい流れを導いたと言われています。城の復元は1997年に完成しました。
One of the most important topics about the rebuild was that the castle would be restored by the traditional wooden construction. It is said that the event led to the flowing of new methods for castles’ maintenance in Japan. The restoration was completed in 1997.

大手門の内側(The inside of Otemon)taken by あけび from photo AC

My Impression

新しくも伝統的で大型の木造城郭建築を見ることは、とてもよい経験になると思います。白石市から130kmほど離れた白河市の白河小峰城には、もう一つこのような建築物があります。距離はありますが、新幹線を使って両方回ってみるというのもよいかもしれません。
It is a very good experience for visitors to see new traditional large wooden castle buildings. There is another such building in the Shirakawa-Komine castle in Shirakawa city about 130km away from Shiroishi city. But it may be a good idea to plan a tour of both castles by using Shinkansen.

福島県白河市にある白河小峰城(Shirakawa-Komine Castle in Shirakawa City, Fukushima Pref.)



How to get There

JR白石駅から歩いて10分か、または新幹線の白石蔵王駅から車で5分です。
東京から白石駅まで:東北新幹線で福島駅まで行き、東北本線の普通列車に乗り換え
東京から白石蔵王駅まで:東北新幹線で直通です。
10 minutes walk from the JR Shiroishi train station or 5 minutes drive from the Shiroishi-Zao shinkansen station.
From Tokyo to Shiroishi st.: Take the Tohoku Shinkansen super express to the Fukushima station and transfer to the Tohoku local line.
From Tokyo to Shiroishi-Zao st.: Take the Tohoku Shinkansen super express direct to the station.