Shirakawa city – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3

Go along the former Oshu Road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls.

Features

Walking around Main Enclosure

If you want to see other attractions of the castle, you can get out of the main enclosure through the ruins of Sakura-no-mon (meaning the cherry gate) to walk around the stone walls of the enclosure on the belt enclosure, the lower tier of the main portion. The ruins of Tsukimi-Yagura (meaning the moon viewing turret) are in front of the gate ruins of the enclosure, which look very strong with their remaining stone wall base.

The map around the main enclosure

The ruins of Tsukimi Turret seen from the second enclosure below

The belt enclosure surrounds the western and northern sides of the main enclosure. You can feel relaxed by walking on the belt enclosure, while enjoying looking at the great, long and high stone walls of the main enclosure. These stone walls look well-maintained. However, they collapsed heavily during Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011 and were repaired by Shirakawa City for the following eight years (completed in 2019).

The great stone walls of the main enclosure

The explanation board of the stone walls being destroyed by the earthquake and repaired later on

You will eventually reach the other gate ruins of the belt enclosure, called Ya (arrow)-no-mon. You can see a great view of the three-level turret at the northeastern edge of the main enclosure on the right. However, if you were an enemy, the defenders would attack you through the turret’s machicolations and loopholes facing you.

Going to Outside of Castle

Another recommendation for you is to visit the former third enclosure, which is the east of the main portion. It has turned into the city area mainly including public facilities. There is only one remaining castle building among the area, the Taiko-Yagura Turret, which was originally used beside the Taiko-mon Gate in the second enclosure. It was moved to a private sector, converted to a tea room, and finally moved to the current position where it has been since 1930.

The map around the castle

If you go further to the east until the National Route 294 (the former Oshu Road), go along the road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls. In fact, they were recently discovered when the pine trees on the hill were cut down for the bypass road constructions. They must have been built to protect the castle from the threats from the north. These stone walls connect to the back gate of the castle, which opens to the north, but you can’t go directly to the gate due to the construction site between them.

Looking the stone walls from the bridge over the Abukuma River

No entry is allowed around the stone walls due to the constructions

My Impression

While visiting the well-remaining structures and restored buildings of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, I felt the strong intentions of Nagashige Niwa, the builder of them, to protect the castle from possible enemies from the north. He must have been one of the few lords to do it properly and quickly. I also think that the history during the Boshin War lets us to know that such a strong castle had a weak point and could not survive without enough soldiers and proper instructions

The three-level turret seen from Abukuma River, north of the castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Shirakawa-Chuo Smart IC on the Tohoku Expressway.
There is a parking lot in the park.
By public transportation, the castle is very near the JR Shirakawa station. You can even see the nice view of the three-level turret from the platform.
From Tokyo to the station: Get the Tohoku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tohoku Line at Shin-Shirakawa Station. The destination will be the next station.

The castle ruins seen from the platform of the station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2”

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2

the ruins of the castle were turned into a park. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

Later History

During the Meiji Era, the ruins of the castle were turned into a park in which the baseball stadium was constructed in during the Showa Era. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because a lot of citizens complained and the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

The aerial photo around the castle during the 1970’s

The detailed drawing of the three-level turret Sadanobu Matsudaira left

However, there was a big problem with the law. Japan’s Building Standard Act has very strict restrictions on wooden buildings which are over 13m tall. According to this law, new large old-style wooden buildings like the Shirakawa-Komine castle turret are not allowed to be built. So officials continued the restoration of the turret not as a building, but as a structure that would be allowed by the law. It was finally completed in 1991. However, another problem occurred as the government made the most part of the turret inaccessible to visitors, because it was not “a building”. At last, the law had the provisions to be exempt for historical buildings in 1993. The three story-level was finally opened to visitors.

Features

Castle Ruins still look Strong

Today, if you stand in front of the ruins of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, called Shiroyama Park, you will be impressed by its wide remaining stone walls and the slim restored three-level turret on the top. The entrance of the park was that of the second enclosure, which had Taiko (drum)-mon Gate. The enclosure has become an open space where people can enjoy relaxing and exercising. It is also partially used by public facilities such as Komine-jo(castle) History Museum and a tea house.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the second enclosure (the ruins of Taiko-mon Gate

The appearance around the second enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by *Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The main portion of the castle ahead still looks very strong, which is surrounded by the inner moat and two-tiered high stone walls. These tiers consist of the main enclosure on the top and the surrounding Take (bamboo)-no-maru Enclosure. You need to go across the earthen bridge over the moat and the ruins of Shimizu(pure water or spring)-mon Gate to enter it. The gate was the largest one in the castle and Shirakawa City is actually planning to restore it by 2026 (as of January 2024). Next, if you climb the stone steps and turn right on the Take-no-maru Enclosure, you will see the three-level turret close by.

*The appearance around the Shimizu-mon Gate and the Take-no-maru enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

Good Combination of restored Turret and Gate

You can also see Mae-gomon (meaning the front gate) next to the turret which has been restored in the original way since 2004, following the turret. The set of the turret and the gate looks very good and shows the authority of the castle. If you enter the gate, you will be at the main enclosure, which is an empty space but had the main hall for the lord in the past.

The three-level turret (in the back) and the Mae-gomon Gate (in the front), seen from the Take-no-maru Enclosure

The ruins of the main hall of the main enclosure

*The appearance around the main hall in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The three-level turret stands on the northeastern corner of the enclosure. Its three floors are simply built with the 11.7meters (6 Ken in the traditional Japanese unit of length) square of fist floor, the 7.8 meters (4 Ken) square of the second one and the 3.9 meters (2 Ken) square of the top one. Each level also has simple roofing and has two-tones of colored walls from white plaster and black-painted lumber. Overall, the tower looks very beautiful with its good design and color arrangement.

The three-level turret, seen from the inside of the main enclosure

Interior of Turret is completely restored as well

You can enter the turret from the inside of the enclosure. From the processes of restoring this turret, officials always stay inside and monitor the safety of the visitors. For example, only five visitors can stay above the first floor at the same time under the current regulations. That’s because the turret was restored exactly in the same way as the original one except for the minimum safety equipment and explanation boards. If you walk around the first floor, you will find that it is not bright and many columns standing inside. Some of the columns came from pine trees of Inari Mountain, one of the hills where the severe battles occurred in 1868 during the Boshin War. That’s why you can see the bullet marks, caused by the war, on one of them.

the bullet marks on the column of the first floor

You can also see the defense systems like machicolations, loopholes and bay windows at the northern and eastern sides of the floor. These sides face the outsides of the enclosure, which could have been attacked by enemies.

A machicolation built in the first floor

The loopholes built in the first floor (the black square ones)

If you want to go to the second and third floors, please be careful when climbing the very steep stairways, but you can use the handrails and ropes.

As you go above, the floor becomes smaller and you may feel you are in a box on the top floor. The floor also has defense systems similar to other floors, where you can understand the turret is very practical for battles. In addition, you can see views of the outside through the lattice windows of the floor.

To be continued in “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3”
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”

13.白河小峰城（Shirakawa-Komine Castle）

白河駅から見た白河小峰城（A view of Shirakawa-Komine Castle from Shirakawa Station）

Location and History

現在白河市となっている地域は、日本の東北地方の入り口でありました。古代にはこの地域には、現代においてもよく知られている白河の関がありました。中世にはこの地域にはいくつか城が築かれましたが、白河小峰城はそのうちの一つでした。江戸時代になって、丹羽氏がこの城を治め、御三階櫓と呼ばれた三層の櫓を含め城を完成させました。御三階櫓は１４ｍの高さがあり、その大きさからは事実上の「天守」と言っていいものでした。
The area now called Shirakawa city was the entrance of the Tohoku district in Japan. In the Ancient Ages, the area had the Shirakawa Barrier which is very famous even now. In the Middle Ages, several castles were built in this area, one of them was the Shirakawa-Komine Castle. In the Edo Period, the Niwa clan took over and completed the castle including the three story turret called “Gosankai-Yagura”. Gosankai-Yagura was so large that it could actually be the castle keep “Tenshu” which was 14m tall.

*奥州白河城絵図部分、江戸時代（Part of the illustration of Shirakawa Castle in Oshu District in Edo Period）｜出典：国立公文書館*

城主は丹羽氏から松平氏など他の大名に何度か変わりました。明治維新のとき、白河口の戦いがこの城の周辺で、新政府軍と旧幕府軍の間で起こりました。幕府軍は新式の装備を備えた政府軍に敗れ去りました。そしてこの城は破壊され、御三階櫓もまた焼け落ちたのです。
The lords of the castle changed from Niwa to others such as the Matsudaira clan. During the Meiji Restoration, the Battle of Shirakawaguchi took placed between the new Government Amy and the former Shogunate Amy around the castle. The Shogunate Amy was beaten by the Government Amy with modern equipment, and the castle was destroyed. Gosankai-yagura was also burned down.

破壊された白河小峰城（The destroyed Shirakawa-Komine Castle）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

Features

それでも今なお、元の御三階櫓と全く同じ木造建築を見ることができています。
We can still see the wooden building exactly the same as the original Gosankai-Yagura.

それは、一時期城主だった松平定信が詳細な図面を作成させ、それが幸運にも現代に残っているからです。それに加えて白河市が、元来の工法で櫓を再建することを決断したからです。
That’s because the once lord Sadanobu Matsudaira ordered to make drawings of the castle in details and they luckily still remain. In addition, officials decided to rebuild the building in the original way.

松平定信自画像（The self-portlait of Sadanobu Matsudaira）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedea Commons

ビジターは中に入ることができます。中はどちらかというと狭く、暗く、階段は急です。それは元通りに作られ、そもそも戦いのための建物だったからなのですが。案内係の方が安全に見て回れるよう誘導してくれます。また、城の周りを囲む石垣も見ものです。この石垣は、２０１１年の東日本大震災でかなり崩れてしまったのですが、現時点では復旧しています。
Visitors can enter inside. The inside is rather narrow, dark and the stairs are steep as it is made in the old style and originally made for battles. Official instructors will guide you in order to look around safely. It is also recommended to see stone walls surrounding the castle. These walls partly collapsed due to the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011. But they have already been restored now.

石垣とその向こうに見える御三階櫓（The stone walls with Gosankai-Yagura over there）

Later Life

明治時代、城跡は公園に転用され、そこには野球場が建設されました。しかし、昭和時代の後半になって、市民の多くの要望により白河市は城跡の整備方針を変更しました。城を往時の状態のまま復元できないか考え始めたのです。それは、大型の城郭建築物を再建する方法としては、現代日本において初めての試みでした。
In the Meiji Era, the ruins of the castle were turned into a park in which the baseball stadium was constructed. But in the late Showa Era, officials changed its policy of developing the ruins because of a lot of request from citizens. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to the original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in present day Japan.

１９７０年代の城周辺の航空写真（The aerial photo of the area around the castle in 1970s）

しかし、そこには大きな法的制約がありました。日本の建築基準法は高さ１３ｍを超える木造建築物に厳しい規制を課していました。この法に従えば、白河小峰城の櫓のような新築で大型の、且つ伝統的工法の木造建築物は作れないことになっているのです。そこで白河市は櫓の復元を続けるにあたって、それを建築物ではなく、法で認められる工作物として届け出ました。そして１９９１年に復元は完成したのです。
However, there was a big problem with the law. Japan’s Building Standard Act has very strict restrictions on wooden buildings which are over 13m tall. According to this law, new large old-style wooden buildings like the Shirakawa-Komine castle turret are not allowed to be built. So officials continued the restoration of the turret as not a building, but a structure that would be allowed by the law. It was completed in 1991.

ところが新たな問題が発生しました。国の当局が、櫓は「建築物」ではないのだからビジターを櫓のほとんどの場所には入れてはいけないと言ってきたのです。最終的には１９９３年に建築基準法に歴史的建築物に対する例外規定が追加され、御三階櫓は全て公開されることになったのです。
But another problem occurred as the government made the most part of the turret inaccessible visitors, because it was not “a building”. At last, the law had the provisions to be exempt for historical buildings in 1993. The three story turret Gosankai-yagura was finally open to visitors.

My Impression

本当に白河市の職員、市民の方々の成果に対しては尊敬の念を抱きます。その真摯な努力は、日本の城郭維持の新しい方法への流れを導いたと言えます。白河小峰城のケースは、その後続く白石城、掛川城、大洲城などの「平成の木造復元ブーム」のさきがけとなったのです。
I really respect the achievement of the officials and people in Shirakawa City. Their great effort led to the movement towards new methods for maintaining castles in Japan. The case of Shirakawa-Komine Castle was the pioneer of “The boom of wooden restoration in the Heisei era” followed by other castles such as Shiroishi, Kakegawa, Ozu and so on.

復元された掛川城（The restored Kakegawa Castle）taken by Oshiro-man from photo AC

How to get There

白河小峰城は、ＪＲ白河駅からすぐ近くです。白河駅のプラットフォームからも御三階櫓の素晴らしい眺めを見ることができます。
東京から白河駅まで：東北新幹線で新白河駅まで行き、東北本線に乗り換え。次の駅が白河駅です。
The castle is very near the JR Shirakawa station. You can even see the nice view of Gosankai-yagura from the platform.
From Tokyo to the station: Get the Tohoku Shinkansen super express to the Shin-Shirakawa st., and transfer to the Tohoku Line. The destination will be the next station.

白河駅のプラットフォームからの眺め（A view from the platform of Shirakawa Station）

Links and References

・小峰城跡【こみねじょうあと】 | 白河市公式ホームページ(City of Shirakawa)
・埋木帖～城の復元と法令①　白河小峰城三重櫓（only Japanese）