59.Himeji Castle Part3

Every time you go the castle, you will have a new perspective.

Features (The Large Main Tower)

The Large Main Tower has five layers, but its inside has six levels with a basement. The tower was built using the lookout tower style. This type of tower usually has a small look-out tower on a large-scale turret with hip-and-gable roofs. But Himeji’s tower looks smart and doesn’t have a veranda at the top floor that other look-out towers usually have. The tower is categorized as the late lookout tower type that would evolve into the multi-storied type later.

The Large Main Tower of Himeji Castle (the late lookout tower type)
The Main Tower of Inuyama Castle (the lookout tower style)
The Main Tower of Fukuyama Castle (the multi-storied type)

Its roofs are decorated with many Chinese style gables and triangular shaped gables. White plaster is painted thickly over its walls as well as the gaps among the roof tiles to protect against fire, that makes it looks like a white heron. On the other hand, it is also equipped with lots of machicolations and loopholes for battles. You can enter into the tower, but please note that you may have to stand in a line over an hour because the tower is very popular. In addition, only a limited number of visitors are allowed inside at a time. Unlike its gorgeous appearance, its inside is built very practically. The tower was actually built as a place just for battle.

The beautiful decorations of the Main Tower
The interior of the Main Tower (licensed by alisdair via Wikimedia Commons)

The inside has kitchens, toilets and warehouses to accommodate many soldiers for a long siege. You can also see how soldiers could use machicolations and loopholes inside. The Large Main Tower is mainly supported by two large pillars (the East and West). The West Large Pillar had actually been spoiled, so it was replaced with new one when The Showa Great Repairs were done in 1959. The foot of the East Large Pillar was also fixed then. You can now see these large pillars clearly above the third floor.

A kitchen in the Main Tower (licensed by Corpse Reviver via Wikimedia Commons)
The West Large Pillar  (taken by あけび from photoAC)

Features (Sides and Back of Castle)

The map around the castle

Himeji Castle has a lot of perspectives even in the sides and back. Let me introduce some of them. First, on the front foot of Himeyama mountain, you can see terraced stone walls which are piled with natural stones, a primitive method called “Nozura-zumi”. They are said to be built by Hideyoshi Hashiba or Kanbe Kuroda. They also surround Kamiyamazato Enclosure which is one of the oldest enclosures in the castle.

The old stone walls surrounding Kamiyamazato Enclosure

Moving to the right side of the castle, you can see the edge of the moat which is separated from the Inner Moat. There was the warehouse for freight called Uchisenba-gura nearby. This meant that the moat was used as a port.

The Inner Moat used as a port

The stone walls on the eastern side of Ido Enclosure are among the highest stone walls in the castle. In addition, the right side of the Large Main Tower is outstanding where you can see the great hip-and-gable roof on the second layer. The combination of them is perfect for a picture.

The high stone walls under Ido Enclosure
The right side of the Main Tower
The combination of the Main Tower and the high stone walls

On the back side of the castle, you can see another edge of the moat. In fact, the edge is the starting point of all the swirling moats in the castle. The back of Himeyama mountain still remains natural, so its appearance with the Main Towers has a unique perspective. The area around has the doubled Inner Moats as the second turn of the moats starts there and they offered strong protection to the back of the castle.

The start point of the moat
The Main Tower on the back of the mountain
The second turn of the moat

To be continued in “Himeji Castle Part4”
Back to “Himeji Castle Part2”

59.姫路城 その3

毎回この城に行くたびに新しい発見があります。

特徴(大天守)

大天守は5層で6階+地階という構造です。この天守は望楼型という形式です。この形式の天守には、通常は入母屋式の屋根を持つ大型の櫓の上に、小さな望楼が立っています。しかし、姫路の天守には、他の天守には通常ある最上階の欄干がないため、スマートに見えます。この天守は、後に層塔型として発展することになる後期望楼型として分類されています。

姫路城大天守(後期望楼型)
犬山城天守(望楼型)
福山城天守(層塔型)

屋根は多くの華頭窓や千鳥破風によって装飾されています。火災を防ぐため、白い漆喰が壁だけではなく、屋根瓦の間にも厚く塗りこめられていいます。それが城を白鷺のように見せています。一方、戦いのために多くの石落としや狭間も装備されています。天守の中に入ることはできますが、とても人気があるので、1時間以上並んで待たなければいけないかもしれません。更に、同時に中に入ることができる人数も制限されています。豪華な外見と違って、内部は実に実用的です。天守は実際には正に戦いのための場所なのです。

大天守の美しい装飾
大天守の内部 (licensed by alisdair via Wikimedia Commons)

内部には、長い籠城で多くの兵士を収容するための洗い場、厠、倉庫があります。また、内部では石落としや狭間を兵士がどのように使うのか見学することもできます。大天守は主に日本の大柱(東と西)によって支えられています。西大柱は実は腐ってしまい、そのため1959年に行われた昭和の大修理で新しいものに交換されました。そのとき東大柱の根元も修理されました。3階より上ではこれらの柱をはっきり見ることができます。

大天守内の洗い場 (licensed by Corpse Reviver via Wikimedia Commons)
西大柱  (taken by あけび from photoAC)

特徴(城の側面と背面)

城周辺の地図

姫路城には側面や背面であってもたくさんの見所があります。そのうちのいくつかを紹介しましょう。まずは、姫山の正面山裾のところでは、「野面積み」と呼ばれる自然石を使って積まれた階段状の石垣を見ることができます。羽柴秀吉か黒田官兵衛によって作られたと言われています。この石垣は、この城で最も古い曲輪の一つと言われている上山里曲輪を囲んでいます。

上山里曲輪を囲む古い石垣

城の右側面に回り込むと、内堀から分かれ出た堀の端が見えます。この近くには内船場蔵という船荷のための倉庫がありました。この堀は船着き場として使われていたのです。

船着き場として使われた内堀

井戸曲輪の東側の石垣は、この城で最も高い石垣の一つです。更には、大天守の右側には二層目に大入母屋が見え、とても際立っています。石垣との組み合わせは写真を撮るにはもってこいです。

井戸曲輪下の高石垣
大天守の右側面
大天守と高石垣のコンビネーション

城の裏側では、もう一つ堀の末端を見ることができます。実はこの端っこはこの城の渦巻き状の堀の始発点なのです。姫山の裏側はいまだ自然のままに残っていて、大天守との取り合わせは独特の眺望です。この辺は、内堀が二重になっていて、二周目の堀が始まる所でもあります。これらが城の裏側を強力に守っていたのです。

堀の始発点
裏山から見える大天守
二周目の堀

「姫路城その4」に続きます。
「姫路城その2」に戻ります。

59.Himeji Castle Part2

The castle and the town are united as one.

Features (From Himeji Station to the Main Towers)

When you go out of the north (Himeji-jo) exit of Himeji Stataion, you can see the Main Towers towards the main street in front of the station in the distance. You get the feeling that the castle and the town are united as one. The Outer Moat was built around this area. The Main Towers are still over 1.5 km away. On the way to the castle along the street, you will see the stone walls of Nakanomon Gate Ruins on the left, where the Middle Moat existed. The area around there has become the city area now, but the street looks like the approach to the castle.

The aerial photo around the castle

Himeji Castle that can be seen from Himeji Station
The ruins of Nakanomon Gate

Soon, you will reach the front of the Inner Moat. The inside of the moat is the main portion of the castle called “Naikaku”. The Main Gate called Sakura-mon is the entrance of Naikaku, which is accessible after walking across the bridge. The gate was once demolished but was restored. You can see a large empty square called the Third Enclosure where many halls once stood. You can now get to see the Main Towers on Himeyama mountain up close.

The restored Sakura-mon Gate (the Main Gate)
The Third Enclosure Square
The Main Tower on Himeyama Mountain

The ticket office is at the back of the square. After buying the ticket, you will enter Hishinomon Gate, the entrance of the Second Enclosure. You can go to both the Main Towers on Himeyama mountain and Nishinomaru Enclosure on Sagiyama mountain from the gate because it is located in the valley between the mountains. Inside the gate, you can also see Sangokubori Moat which is said to once be a water reservoir. The Main Towers start to look bigger.

Hishinomon Gate
Sangokubori Moat  (taken by わゆすけ from photoAC)
The Main Tower is looking bigger

To reach the Main Towers, you will need to go through many gates in front of you. In fact, the shortcuts to the Main Towers are set on the right of Sangokubori Moat, but the routes can be hard to find for visitors. That meant enemies could be led to the difficult route easily. You can see a lot of loopholes on the plaster walls along the route. The loopholes have several interesting shapes, but they were also a threat to enemies.

The map around the castle

The route to the Main Tower
The loopholes on the plaster walls

The farther you go, the closer the Main Towers get; however, the route suddenly changes direction before the Ninomon Gate. In addition, the entrance of the gate is very low and narrow under the turret building for the gate. Enemies would have been very confused to see such a defense system. You will enter the Main Tower Enclosure after passing the next gate called Honomon. You can see a mud wall on the right, which looks different from the castle’s other white plaster walls. It is called “Abura-kabe” or the Oil Wall and said to derive from Hideyoshi’s period. The wall actually hid other gates to the Large Main Tower. You will need to go through five more gates to reach the tower! The three Small Main Towers are along the route to protect the Large Main Tower.

Ninomon Gate  (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)
The Oil Wall (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)
The Small Main Towers protecting the Large Main Tower

To be continued in “Himeji Castle Part3”
Back to “Himeji Castle Part1”