192.Tsunomure Castle Part1

Local lords in Kusu area built their own castles using mesas or buttes which were the area’s natural features. Tsunomure Castle was one of these castles.

Location and History

One of Castles in Kusu area, important place in traffic

Tsunomure Castle was located in the Mori area of Kusu District, Bungo Province, which is the modern day Mori area of Kusu Town, Oita Prefecture. Kusu District and Kusu Town have been on the way between the eastern and western Northern Kyushu Region. For example, if you want to move from Oita City to Fukuoka or Saga Cities, you will pass Kusu Town either using car or public transportation. In addition, the district bordered on Buzen Province in the north, so the governor of Bungo Province, the Otomo Clan, which long owned the province during the Middle Ages, always focused on Kusu District to protect its territory.

The range of Bungo Province and the location of the castle

The Kusu area also has the interesting natural feature of many mesas or buttes which originate from volcanic activity. They look like mountains or hills with steep slopes but have a plain area on the top, created by erosion. Kirikkabu (or Stump) Mountain in the area is typical among them. Local lords in the area built their own castles using these mesas or buttes during the Middle Ages. Tsunomure Castle was one of the castles, built on the Tsunomure Mountain by a local lord, the Mori Clan. Part of the name “mure” can be found in other mountains in the Kyushu Region, such as Togamure in Saiki City, Oita Prefecture. The word might derive from “mura” (or village) or “mori” (or forest), which indicates that the mountain and castle might have been used with local peoples’ daily life. They could cut down trees from the mountain for fuel and materials, or escape from their village to the castle when a battle happened.

The Stump Mountain (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)

Broadly speaking, the history of Tsunomure Castle can be divided into three periods. The first one was from the castle’s foundation to the end of the Otomo Clan’s rule at the end of the 16th Century. The clan’s government continued stably and the Kusu area was divided by many local lords which had their own castles made from mesas or buttes. The Otomo Clan didn’t rule their lands directly, so as long as they paid taxes to and served the clan, they were able to maintain their properties. Tsunomure Castle, governed by the Mori Clan, was built made of soil, by processing natural terrain into tier-wise enclosures, ditches, vertical cliffs, vertical moats, and so on. The mountain, where the castle was built, had been protective enough, which was surrounded by natural steep cliffs in all the directions except for the south. That’s why the defenders would gather the defensive items in the one direction. The castle actually became the only one which the Simazu Clan couldn’t capture when they invaded the Otomo Clan’s territory in 1586, therefore it was considered impregnable.

The diorama of Tsunomure Castle Ruins, exhibited by Bungo-Mori Domain Museum

The relief map arond the castle

Takamasa Mori modernizes Castle

The second period started from 1593 when the Otomo Clan was fired by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the ruler of Japan. After that, Hideyoshi sent his retainers to the former Otomo’s territory to govern it directly. The Kusu area was assigned by Hideyoshi to Takamasa Mori (different from the previous Mori Clan and in Chinese letters for writing). Takamasa lived in and improved Tsunomure Castle by building high stone walls, defensive entrances called Koguchi, and buildings with roof tiles and stone foundations. These items are also seen in other local castles in Japan where Hideyoshi’s other retainers built or improved them, making the castles more defensive as well as showing their authority to people. In particular, the high stone walls of Tsunomure Castle in front of its Main Gate were piled in an advanced way called Ano-zumi, using natural stones and rubble. Takamasa’s government ended in a few years before he was transferred to the Saiki area, where he would build Saiki Castle, by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1601. This may be the reason why the improvement to Tsunomure Castle was only partially done.

The wooden statue of Takamasa Mori, from the signboard at Saiki City Historical Museum
The high stone walls of Tsunomure Castle, built in the Ano-zumi way
The ruins of Saiki Castle

Lord of Navy becomes that of Inland Domain

Nagachika Kurushima came to Tsunomure Castle in the same year instead of Takamasa. However, the Kurushima Clan must have felt uncomfortable moving to this inland area. This was because they had originally been one of the Murakami Navies which flourished in the Geiyo Islands of the Seto Inland Sea. The clan was located in Kurushima Island in front of the Kurushima Strait which is known as a rapid stream. They escorted ships which paid protection money, otherwise, they became pirates. They also join battles sometimes as a navy and one of the backed-up persons was the ruler Hideyoshi, which resulted in their sea territory being maintained. Nagachika was the lord of the clan at that time, who joined the West Alliance which was beaten in the decisive battle in 1600 by the East Squad (alliance) led by Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the shogunate. That was the reason for his transportation to the strange place, however, he may be lucky as many other lords joining the West Squad were killed or fired by the shogunate.

The portrait of Nagachika Kurushima, owned by Anrakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Kurushima Strait

His new territory was part of the Kusu District, called Mori, so the territory would be called the Mori Domain. It earned 14,000 koku of rice, which was considered as an independent lord, but was too small to have a castle. Therefore, he had to abandon Tsunomure Castle on the mountain and lived in the encampment at its southern foot instead. However, his clan managed to own and maintain the mountain part with no buildings but the former castle’s foundations, probably for cases of emergency like a battle. The clan also developed the castle town around the encampment and governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The ruins of Kurushima Clan’s encampment
The ruins of Samurai residences in the castle town

To be continued in “Tsunomure Castle Part2”

192.角牟礼城 その1

豊後国玖珠地域の国人領主たちは中世の間、この地域の特徴的な地形、メサやビュートを使ってそれぞれの城を築きました。角牟礼城は、それらの城の一つでした。

立地と歴史

交通の要衝、玖珠地域の城の一つ

角牟礼(つのむれ)城は、かつての豊後国玖珠(くす)郡の森地区、現在の大分県玖珠町の森地区にあった城です。玖珠郡及び玖珠町は、北九州地方の東西を結ぶ交通路の途上にあります。例えば、大分市から福岡市か佐賀市まで行こうとすると、車を使っても公共交通機関でも玖珠町を通ることになります。それに加えて、かつての玖珠郡は北方を豊前国に接していて、中世に長く豊後国を守護として支配してきた大友氏にとっては、領土を守るために常に玖珠郡に注意を払ってきました。

豊後国の範囲と城の位置

また、この玖珠地域には面白い自然の特徴があり、火山活動に由来するメサやビュートというものです。これらは急傾斜をもった山や丘のように見えるのですが、頂上部分は浸食により平らになっています。この地域にある切株山はそれらの中でも典型的な形をしています。地域の国人領主たちは中世の間、メサやビュートを使ってそれぞれの城を築きました。角牟礼城は、それらの城の一つであり、国人領主の森氏によって角埋(つのむれ)山の上に築かれました。この名前の一部「牟礼・埋(むれ)」は、同じ大分県の佐伯市の栂牟礼(とがむれ)のように、九州地方の他の山の名前にも見ることができます。この言葉は「村」や「森」に由来するとも言われ、このことはこの山や城が地元の人たちによっても日常的に使われていたことを示唆しています。すなわち、山から燃料や部材のために木を伐採したり、戦が起こったときには村から城に避難していたようなことが考えられます。

切株山  (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)

大まかに言って、角牟礼城の歴史は3つに分けられます。最初の時代は、城の創建から16世紀末に大友氏の支配が終わるまでの期間です。その当時、大友氏の支配は安定し、玖珠地域はメサやビュートを利用した城を持つ多くの国人領主たちによって分割されていました。大友氏は彼らの領地を直接統治することはせず、彼らが大友氏に所定の年貢を納め、奉仕を行っている限り、領土や財産を保全することができました。森氏によって治められた角牟礼城は土造りで、自然の地形を加工して、段状の曲輪群、堀切、切岸、縦堀などが作り出されたのです。城が築かれた山は南側を除く三方を自然の急崖に囲まれていて、それだけでも十分高い防御力を有していました。そのため、城の守備兵は防御設備を南側一方に集中させることができたのです。この城は実際に、1586年に島津氏が大友氏の領土に侵攻したときに唯一落とせなかった城となり、難攻不落の城と称されました。

角牟礼城跡のジオラマ、豊後森藩資料館にて展示

城周辺の起伏地図

毛利高政が城を近代化

二番目の時代は、天下人の豊臣秀吉により大友氏が改易となった1593年から始まりました。その後秀吉は、以前大友領だったところに直属の部下をを派遣し、直接統治することを始めたのです。玖珠地域には、秀吉によって領主として毛利高政が宛がわれました。高政は角牟礼城を居城とし、高石垣や虎口と呼ばれる防御力の高い出入口、そして瓦屋根や礎石をもった建物を築くことで改修を行いました。これらは、秀吉の他の部下たちが日本の他の地域で築いたり改修したりした城でも見ることができます。城を強化するとともに、人々に権威を見せつけたのです。特に、角牟礼城の大手門前の高石垣は、「穴太積み」と呼ばれる当時としては最新の方法によって自然石や粗く加工された石が積み上げられました。しかし高政の統治は数年で終わってしまい、1601年には徳川幕府によって、佐伯地域に転封となりました。彼はそこで佐伯城を築くことになります。このことは、角牟礼城の改修が部分的にしか行われなかった理由になるのかもしれません。

毛利高政木造、佐伯市歴史資料館の説明板より
角牟礼城の穴太積みの高石垣
佐伯城跡

水軍の棟梁が内陸の藩の領主に

来島長親(くるしまながちか)が同じ年に高政の代わりに角牟礼城にやってきました。しかし、来島氏はこの内陸の地に異動することにとても戸惑いを感じたはずです。どうしてかというと、来島氏はもともと瀬戸内海の芸予諸島で村上水軍の一族として繁栄していたからです。彼らは、急流で知られる来島海峡に面する来島を根拠地としていました。そして、通行料を支払った船を安全な航路に案内する一方、そうでない船にはいわゆる海賊行為を働いていました。また彼らは時には水軍となって戦いに加わっていて、その支援先の一つが天下人の秀吉でした。そのおかげで彼らの海域は安堵されたのです。長親はその当時の当主でしたが、1600年に起こった天下分け目の戦いでは西軍に加わり、徳川幕府の創始者となる徳川家康率いる東軍に敗れてしまいました。それが慣れない場所への転封の理由だったのです。しかしそれでも、他の多くの西軍に加わった武将が死罪となったり改易となる中、ラッキーだったのかもしれません。

来島長親肖像画、安楽寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
来島海峡

長親の新しい領地は、玖珠郡の一部、森地区でした。そのため森藩と呼ばれることになります。その石高は1万4千石で、独立大名としては認められても、城を持つことは許されませんでした。そのため、長親は山上の角牟礼城を廃城とせねばならず、その代わりに南麓に陣屋を構えてそこに住んでいました。しかし、彼の一族は山の部分を維持し続け、建物は撤去したもののその基礎部分は残していました。戦いが起こった場合に備えていたのでしょう。久留島氏(来島より改姓、読みは同じ)はまた、陣屋の周りに城下町を整備し、江戸時代末期まで藩を統治しました。

久留島氏の陣屋跡
城下町の武家屋敷跡

「角牟礼城その2」に続きます。

191.Nakatsu Castle Part3

Nakatsu City planned to replace old stones with new ones to re-pile the walls because it didn’t think the stones were original. The construction was just on the point of starting.

Features

Many Shrines in Main Enclosure

There are now many shrines in the Main Enclosure such as Nakatsu Shrine, Nakatsu Grand Shrine, and Okudaira Shrine. An interesting one among them is Kii Shrine, which worships a local warlord, Shigefusa Kii who was invited but murdered in the castle by Nagamasa Kuroda, Yoshitaka’s son. A tradition says Nagamasa established the shrine because he was feared by a ghost of Shigefusa’s revenge and regretted his action.

The map around the Main Enclosure

Nakatsu Shrine
Nakatsu Grand Shrine
Okudaira Shrine on the left
Kii Shrine, quoted from the Tourism Nakatsu Yabakei website
The portrait of Shigefusa Kii, owned by Tentokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Third and Second Enclosures

The Third Enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure, but has become the city area. It has the Main Gate Ruins to the center of the castle, where the past visitors had to pass one more gate, Kuro-mon to reach the Shiki-mon Gate of the Main Enclosure. You can still see part of the great stone walls of the Main Gate among the modern residences.

The map around the castle

The current THird Enclosure
The remaining stone walls of the Main Gate, the front part was first built by the Kuroda Clan and the back part was added by the Hosokawa Clan to make a defensive square space called Masugata
The inside of the gate was like this illustration, the remaining part is marked white, the Kuro-mon Gate and the Shiiki-mon Gate are below it, from the signboard at the site

The other neighboring Second Enclosure has become a park where you can see some remaining stone foundations of Samurai residences.

The Second Enclosure Park
The ruins of the Samurai residences

Fukuzawa’s Old House

Another recommendation you can visit is the old house of Yukichi Fukuzawa, about 1km away from the enclosure in the east. He bought this house when he was 16 years old and lived in it until 19. He came from a lower warrior class in the Nakatsu Domain, so the house can be seen as an example of those which lower class warriors lived in. The house is well maintained, for instance, the thatched roof of it is supported by wooden bars. A storehouse made with thick earthen walls also remains beside the house, where Yukichi studied on its second floor.

Fukuzawa’s Old House
The interior of the house
The supported thatched roof
The storehouse where Fukuzawa studied

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Nakatsu Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings, except for the Main Hall in the Main Enclosure, were demolished. The hall was used as a government office for a while, but was burned down in 1877 by a disturbance during the Seinan War. After that, the castle ruins were used for the several shrines and the Imitation Main Tower was built in 1964. A recent topic about the castle ruins was that there was an internal controversy among the officials of Nakatsu City when it was planning to repair the stone walls opposite the riverside in the Main Enclosure in 2002. The department in charge planned to replace old stones with new ones to re-pile the walls because it didn’t think the stones were original. The construction was just on the point of starting. However, the Cultural Heritage Division argued that the wall might be original and should be preserved. As a result, the stone walls were repaired using the old stones, as it had been discovered that they were the original ones used when Yoshitaka Kuroda first built the castle. The city announced that they are the oldest remaining stone walls in the Kyushu Region.

The repaired stone walls which use the original stones

My Impression

When I visited the current Nakatsu Castle, I was little confused that the site was mixed with the original items and many ones added later such as the Imitation Tower and the shrines. However, as I learned about history of the castle and people in Nakatsu, I understood that these items came from how they made great efforts on maintaining the castle and ruins. I also understood that running castle buildings can be difficult for private sectors which need profit to continue operating. Please give it your consideration to visit Nakatsu Castle when you travel around Nakatsu City.

The Imitation Main Tower seen from the riverside

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 15 minutes drive away from Sadanomi IC on the Nakatsu-Hita Road. There are several parking lots around the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to get there from JR Nakatsu Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Nakatsu Station: Take the express bus to Oita Station from Oita Airport after using a plane, and get the train on the Nippo Line from the station.

A parking lot beside the Main Enclosure

Links and References

Nakatsu Castle Official Website

That’s all. Thank you.
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