191.Nakatsu Castle Part3

Nakatsu City planned to replace old stones with new ones to re-pile the walls because it didn’t think the stones were original. The construction was just on the point of starting.

Features

Many Shrines in Main Enclosure

There are now many shrines in the Main Enclosure such as Nakatsu Shrine, Nakatsu Grand Shrine, and Okudaira Shrine. An interesting one among them is Kii Shrine, which worships a local warlord, Shigefusa Kii who was invited but murdered in the castle by Nagamasa Kuroda, Yoshitaka’s son. A tradition says Nagamasa established the shrine because he was feared by a ghost of Shigefusa’s revenge and regretted his action.

The map around the Main Enclosure

Nakatsu Shrine
Nakatsu Grand Shrine
Okudaira Shrine on the left
Kii Shrine, quoted from the Tourism Nakatsu Yabakei website
The portrait of Shigefusa Kii, owned by Tentokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Third and Second Enclosures

The Third Enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure, but has become the city area. It has the Main Gate Ruins to the center of the castle, where the past visitors had to pass one more gate, Kuro-mon to reach the Shiki-mon Gate of the Main Enclosure. You can still see part of the great stone walls of the Main Gate among the modern residences.

The map around the castle

The current THird Enclosure
The remaining stone walls of the Main Gate, the front part was first built by the Kuroda Clan and the back part was added by the Hosokawa Clan to make a defensive square space called Masugata
The inside of the gate was like this illustration, the remaining part is marked white, the Kuro-mon Gate and the Shiiki-mon Gate are below it, from the signboard at the site

The other neighboring Second Enclosure has become a park where you can see some remaining stone foundations of Samurai residences.

The Second Enclosure Park
The ruins of the Samurai residences

Fukuzawa’s Old House

Another recommendation you can visit is the old house of Yukichi Fukuzawa, about 1km away from the enclosure in the east. He bought this house when he was 16 years old and lived in it until 19. He came from a lower warrior class in the Nakatsu Domain, so the house can be seen as an example of those which lower class warriors lived in. The house is well maintained, for instance, the thatched roof of it is supported by wooden bars. A storehouse made with thick earthen walls also remains beside the house, where Yukichi studied on its second floor.

Fukuzawa’s Old House
The interior of the house
The supported thatched roof
The storehouse where Fukuzawa studied

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Nakatsu Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings, except for the Main Hall in the Main Enclosure, were demolished. The hall was used as a government office for a while, but was burned down in 1877 by a disturbance during the Seinan War. After that, the castle ruins were used for the several shrines and the Imitation Main Tower was built in 1964. A recent topic about the castle ruins was that there was an internal controversy among the officials of Nakatsu City when it was planning to repair the stone walls opposite the riverside in the Main Enclosure in 2002. The department in charge planned to replace old stones with new ones to re-pile the walls because it didn’t think the stones were original. The construction was just on the point of starting. However, the Cultural Heritage Division argued that the wall might be original and should be preserved. As a result, the stone walls were repaired using the old stones, as it had been discovered that they were the original ones used when Yoshitaka Kuroda first built the castle. The city announced that they are the oldest remaining stone walls in the Kyushu Region.

The repaired stone walls which use the original stones

My Impression

When I visited the current Nakatsu Castle, I was little confused that the site was mixed with the original items and many ones added later such as the Imitation Tower and the shrines. However, as I learned about history of the castle and people in Nakatsu, I understood that these items came from how they made great efforts on maintaining the castle and ruins. I also understood that running castle buildings can be difficult for private sectors which need profit to continue operating. Please give it your consideration to visit Nakatsu Castle when you travel around Nakatsu City.

The Imitation Main Tower seen from the riverside

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 15 minutes drive away from Sadanomi IC on the Nakatsu-Hita Road. There are several parking lots around the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to get there from JR Nakatsu Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Nakatsu Station: Take the express bus to Oita Station from Oita Airport after using a plane, and get the train on the Nippo Line from the station.

A parking lot beside the Main Enclosure

Links and References

Nakatsu Castle Official Website

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Nakatsu Castle Part1
Back to “Nakatsu Castle Part2”

191.中津城 その3

中津市が石垣を積み直す際、古い石を新しいものに交換しようと考えていました。その石垣が城のオリジナルであると思っていなかったからです。

特徴、見どころ

本丸内のたくさんの神社

本丸には、中津神社、中津大神宮、奥平神社などたくさんの神社があります。その中でも興味深い存在が城井神社で、この城の中で孝高の息子、黒田長政に殺された地場の戦国大名であった城井鎮房(きいしげふさ)を祀っています。言い伝えによれば、長政は鎮房の恨みによる亡霊に苦しめられ、自身の行為を後悔してこの神社を創設したとのことです。

本丸周辺の地図

中津神社
中津大神宮
奥平神社(左側)
城井神社(中津耶馬渓観光協会ホームページより引用)
城井鎮房肖像画、天徳寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

三の丸と二の丸

三の丸は本丸のとなりにありますが、現在では市街地となっています。ここには城の中心部に向かうための大手門の跡があります。城があったときに本丸の椎木門に至るためには、もう一つの門(黒門)も通っていく必要がありました。現代の住宅街の合い間に、大手門の立派な石垣の一部が残っています。

城周辺の地図

現在の三の丸
大手門の石垣、手前が黒田時代のもので、奥の方は細川時代に桝形空間を作るために増築されました
かつてはこのようになっていました、現地説明版より(白枠内が残存部分)

本丸の向こう隣りの場所、二の丸は公園になっていて、武家屋敷跡の礎石がいくらか残っています。

二の丸公園
武家屋敷跡

福沢諭吉旧居

他のお勧めの場所は、二の丸の東方約1kmのところにある福沢諭吉の旧居でしょう。福沢は16歳のときにこの家を買い、19歳のときまで住んでいました。彼は中津藩の下級武士階級出身であるので、この家屋は当時の下級武士が住んでいた家屋の一例と言えるでしょう。この家屋はよくメンテナンスされていて、例えば茅葺の屋根は、角材によって下から支えられています。土蔵造りの倉庫も残っていて、ここの2階で福沢が勉強していたそうです。

福沢諭吉旧居
家の内部
支えられている茅葺屋根
福沢が勉強していた土蔵

その後

明治維新後、中津城は廃城となり、本丸の御殿を除く全ての城の建物は撤去されました。御殿はしばらくは役所として使われましたが、1877年に西南戦争が起こったときにその混乱の中で焼け落ちてしまいました。その後、城跡は神社の敷地として使われたり、1964年には模擬天守が建てられました。この城跡に関する最近のトピックは、2002年に中津市の組織内で、川沿いの反対側にある本丸石垣を修理する際に論争があったことです。担当部署は、石垣を積み直す際、古い石を新しいものに交換しようと考えていました。その石垣が城のオリジナルであると思っていなかったからです。その工事がまさに行われようとしたとき、文化財部門が石垣はオリジナルではないか、そうであれば保存されるべきだと言ってきたのです。調査の結果、石垣は黒田孝高が最初に城を築いた当時のものだと判明し、古い石をそのまま使って積み直されました。中津市は、この石垣は九州地方で最も古い現存石垣であると言っています。

オリジナルの石を使って修繕された石垣

私の感想

現在の中津城を訪れてみて、最初は少々違和感を覚えました。そこにはオリジナルのものもあれば、模擬天守や神社のような後の時代に加えられたものが多く混在していたからです。しかし、この城や中津の先人の歴史を学んでみると、これらの文物は城や遺跡をいかに維持していこうとする彼らの努力の結果だということがわかりました。また、継続的に利益を出す必要がある民間企業にとって、城の建物を経営していくのは大変なことだということも理解できました。もし中津市周辺を旅行されるのであれば、中津城に寄ってあげてほしいです。

川岸から見た模擬天守

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:中津日田道路の定留(さだのみ)ICから約15分かかります。公園周辺にいくつか駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR中津駅から歩いて約15分かかります。
東京または大阪から中津駅まで:飛行機で大分空港に行って、そこから高速バスで大分駅に行き、日豊本線の列車に乗ってください。

本丸脇の駐車場

リンク、参考情報

中津城公式ホームページ
中津城(奥平家歴史資料館)、中津耶馬渓観光協会
破壊の危機からうまれたもの -中津市の事例-、文化遺産の世界
・「人物叢書315 黒田孝高/中野等著」吉川弘文館
・「シリーズ藩物語 中津藩/三谷紘平著」現代書館
・「歴史群像123号、戦国の城 豊前中津城」学研
・「よみがえる日本の城20」学研
・「日本の城改訂版第14号」デアゴスティーニジャパン

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「中津城その1」に戻ります。
「中津城その2」に戻ります。

93.Hitoyoshi Castle Part3

A big event for the Hitoyoshi area happened in 1877, when a hero of the restoration, Takamori Saigo started a rebellion against the government known as the Seinan War.

Features

Climbing to Moutain part

Next comes the hill area of the castle, which probably has existed since the first stage of it, but was modernized with stone walls in the later stage. There are no buildings but the foundations remain. You will climb the ruins of Oshita-mon or the Lower Gate which was the only entrance to the Third, Second, and Main Enclosures. You will need to climb wide stone steps and then turn right and walk around below the edge of the hill, where the defenders on the hill must have attacked enemies in the past.

The map around the castle

The ruins of Oshita-mon Gate
Climbing the stone steps
Enemies must have been attacked from above
The path goes around below the hill

You will first be in the Third Enclosure which widely covers the edge of the hill. The enclosure has mostly been made of soil and a square since the castle was active. It may be a good viewing spot of the Hitoyoshi city area.

The Third Enclosure
A view of the city area from the Third Enclosure

Going to Second and Main Enclosures

The Second Enclosure is higher than the Third Enclosure and surrounded by stone walls with two ruins of defensive gates, Nakano-gomon and Uzumi-gomon. This is because there was another Main Hall for the lord which had been considered as the center of the castle before the Mitachi hall was built below the hill.

The Second Enclosure seen from the Third Enclosure
The ruins of Nakano-gomon Gate
The ruins of Uzume-gomon Gate
The inside of the Second Enclosure

The Main Enclosure is the highest enclosure of the castle, but it is small and had no Main Tower. Instead, this enclosure seemed to be used as a religious spot of the Sagara Clan. Its stone steps and foundations have become curved which make us feel its long history.

The stone steps to the Main Enclosure
The inside of the Main Enclosure
The stone steps and foundations have become curved

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hitoyoshi Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were sold or demolished. Only one gate of the Main Hall, called Horiai-mon, was move to the residence of a senior vassal, the Shingu Clan and remains. A big event for the Hitoyoshi area happened in 1877, when a hero of the restoration, Takamori Saigo started a rebellion against the government known as the Seinan War. His troops started an attack on Kumamoto Castle from the south in Kagoshima, while many warriors of Hitoyoshi also joined the Saigo’s side as the Hitoyoshi Party. However, they failed to capture Kumamoto Castle and withdrew to the Hitoyoshi area. The party suggested for Saigo to go there because the area has natural defenses, surrounded by mountains.

The Horiai-mon Gate
The portrait of Takamori Saigo by Edoardo Chiossone (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Kumamoto Castle

Saigo’s headquarters was at the Eikokuji Temple in the area and his staff stayed in the Shingu Clan’s residence. They thought they would be able to hold the area for a long period of time, but the response of the government army was prompt. A gun battle occurred between the army in the north and the Saigo troops in the south, binding the Kumagawa River. The Saigo troops shot from around the Third Enclosure of Hitoyoshi Castle on the hill, however, the shot did not reach the enemy because their guns were outdated. As a result, Saigo withdrew again to other places and was eventually defeated at Kagoshima Castle, his home base. The Hitoyoshi Party surrendered before then.

The map aound the castle

The Third Enclosure of hitoyoshi Castle, where the Saigo troops set their butteries
The ruins of Kagoshima Castle

As castle ruins, they have been developed as Hitoyoshi Castle Park and were designated as a National Historic Site in 1961. Some castle buildings at the riverside, such as Sumi-Yagura or the Corner Turret and Otemon-waki-Tamon Yagura or the row-style turret beside the Main Gate, were recently restored. The Hitoyoshi Castle History Museum opened in 2005 but is currently closed as mentioned in the previous section.

The restored castle buildings
The closed Hitoyoshi Castle History Museum

My Impression

I was very impressed by the great view of Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins with a large stream of the Kumagawa River. I understood nature could provide not only good things like the terrain for the castle but also bad things like disasters. I really hope that the castle ruins will be completely repaired soon and would like to visit their again so that I will be looking forward to seeing the mysterious basement in the museum and walking over the castle ruins to see larger area of the first stage of the castle.

The panorama view of Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins from a bridge over the Kumagawa River

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Hitoyoshi IC on the Kyushu Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot to get there form JR Hitoyoshi Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Hitoyoshi Station: Get an express bus from Kagoshima Airport or Sin-Yatsushiro Station of the Kyushu Shinkansen super express, get off at the Hitoyoshi IC bus stop, and transfer to the Sanko bus bound for the station.

The parking lot at the riverside

Links and References

Hitoyoshi Tourist Information, Hitoyoshi City

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hitoyoshi Castle Part1”
Back to “Hitoyoshi Castle Part2”