118.Oshi Castle Part3

Other attractions around Oshi Castle

Features

Ishida Bank

I recommend visiting some historical spots near the castle regarding the Battle of Oshi Castle. One of them is Ishida Bank Ruins, about 4km away from Oshi Castle Ruins in the southeastern direction. The bank is the nearly 300m remaining one out of the 28km banks Mitsunari Ishida originally built when the battle happened.

The map around the Ishida Bank

The Ishida Bank Ruins
The monument of the bank, built at the end of the Edo Period

It goes along a river in the north and a road in the south, with some pine trees planted on it, which show it is an old road. The road was actually a byway of Nikko Road during the Edo Period and is said to have been on the major Nanasendo Road before the period.

The river in the north
The pine trees planted on the bank and the road in the south

The Horikiri-bashi Bridge over the river at the edge of the remaining bank is also said to be the place where the defenders of Oshi Castle cut and drained the water inside the bank against Mitsunari.

The Horikiri-bashi Bridge

Sakitama Ancient Burial Mounds

Another recommendation is to visit the Sakitama Ancient Burial Mounds which were built between the 5th and 7th Centuries, much earlier than Oshi Castle, but some of them are related to it. Maruhakayama-Kofun or the Round Burial Mountain was one of them and the largest round burial mound in Japan, which is 17m high and its diameter is 105m. When the Battle of Oshi Castle happened, Mitsunari put his stronghold on the mound and instructed the bank construction. You can see the top of the rebuilt three-level turret of Oshi Castle from the top of the mound, where could have been a good place for Mitsunari to see the situation of the inundation tactics. The approach to the mound is also said to have been another Ishida Bank Ruins.

The aerial photo around the Sakitama Ancient Burial Mounds

The Maruhakayama Ancient Burial Mound
The top area of the ancient burial mound
A view from the top of the direction of Oshi Castle
A view of the three-level turret, being zoomed in
The approach to the mound

In addition, Teppoyama-Kofun or the Gun Burial Mountain was involved in the history of the Oshi Domain at the end of the Edo Period. They cut one side of the mound to train their gunnery skill to prepare for their responsibility for protecting Shinagawa Batteries on Edo Bay.

The Teppoyama Ancient Burial Mound
The ground plan of the ancient burial mound, from the signboard at the site, the dark blue part was the training area

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Oshi Castle was abandoned and its water area was turned into a modern park with office buildings but being filled in. It could be needed for modernizing the city. The city was called Gyoda, named after the district which manufactured Japanese socks, Tabi and prospered.

An example of the Gyoda Tabi socks (licensed by katorisi via Wikimedia Commons)
The reproduced manufacturing site of Tabi, exhibited by the Gyoda City Local Museum
One of the remaining Tabi warehouses in the city

The park once had a baseball stadium, officials replaced it with Gyoda City Local Museum whose building looks like The Three-Level Turret the castle had. Some other buildings like a bell-tower, gates and walls were also restored around it, making them the city’s attractions.

The aerial photo around the Main Enclosure in the 1970’s

The current Main Enclosure
The entrance of Gyoda City Local Museum

My Impression

The result of the Battle of Oshi Castle has been said to be the only failure of Hideyoshi Toyotomi during the invasion to the Kanto Region to complete his unification of Japan in 1590, which was blamed to Mitsunari Ishida who was a foolish general. However, I think the reputation comes from being wise after the event that Mitsunari was defeated by Ieyasu Tokugawa in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. It is not fair. Mitsunari was the faithful executor of Hideyoshi’s order in the battle, being successful in surrounding the castle. If the defenders were not instructed by Nagachika Narita, but a magistrate from the Hojo Clan, they might have soon surrendered to Mitsunari. I think the Battle of Oshi Castle was an excellent match where Nagachika and Mitsunari took on each other.

The family crest of the Narita Clan, called Maru-ni-mitsuhiki or Three horizonal lines inside a Circle, exhibited by the Gyoda City Local Museum
The Ishida Bank Ruins seen from the Horikiri-bashi Bridge

How to get There

If you want to go there by car, it is about 30 minutes from Kazo IC or Hanyu IC on the Tohoku Expressway. there are a few parking lots around the castle ruins. It may be better to use a car if you also want to visit Ishida Bank Ruins or the Sakitama Ancient Burial Mounds as well.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from Gyodashi Station on Tobu line to get to the castle ruins.
From Tokyo to Gyodashi Station: Take the Joetsu Shinkansen super express and transfer to Tobu line at Kumagaya Station.

The parking lot of Gyoda City Local Museum with the monument of the Main Enclosure

That’s all. Thank you.
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118.忍城 その3

忍城周辺のお勧めスポット

特徴、見どころ

石田堤

石田堤周辺の地図

城の近くにある、忍城の戦いに関する歴史スポットにも行かれてはいかがでしょうか。一つは石田堤跡で、忍城跡から南東に約4km離れたところにあります。その戦いのときに石田三成が築いた28kmあったとも言われる堤のうち、一部分の300m近くが残っています。

堤沿いにある「石田堤歴史の広場」
江戸時代末に建てられた石田堤碑

その堤は、北側を川に南側を道に沿っています。そして、上には松の木が植えられていて、古い街道であることを示しています。江戸時代には日光街道の脇街道として使われ、それ以前には中山道そのものであったとも言われています。

堤の北側にある川
南側の街道と堤上にある松並木

現存する堤の端にあって、川にかかっている堀切橋は、忍城の守備兵が三成に対抗するため、堤を切って中の水を溢れさせた場所とも伝わっています。

堀切橋

さきたま古墳群

もう一つのお勧めのスポットは、忍城よりずっと早い5世紀から7世紀にかけて築かれた「さきたま古墳群」です。しかし、忍城と関係しているものがあります。丸墓山古墳は古墳群の一つで、円墳としては日本最大であり、高さ17m、直径は105mあります。忍城の戦いが起こったとき、三成はここに本陣を置き、堤の工事を指揮しました。実際、この古墳の頂上からは再建された忍城の三階櫓の上層部分を遠くに眺めることができます。三成にとっては、水攻めの状況を見て取るのに格好の場所であったでしょう。古墳への参道もまた、石田堤の一部であったと言われています。

さきたま古墳群周辺の航空写真

丸墓山古墳
丸墓山古墳の頂上部分
丸墓山古墳から忍城方面の景色
忍城三階櫓をズームアップ
石田堤の一部と言われる丸墓山古墳への参道

更には、鉄砲山古墳は江戸時代末期の忍藩の歴史に関わっています。藩士たちは、この古墳の側面を加工して鉄砲の砲術訓練をしていました(「角場(かくば)と呼ばれていました)。江戸湾にある品川台場などでの防衛任務の準備をしていたと思われます。

鉄砲山古墳
鉄砲山古墳の平面図、現地説明版より、濃紺部分が角場

その後

明治維新後、忍城は廃城となり、水城であった部分は埋められて、近代的公園や建物がある場所に変わっていきました。これはこの都市を近代化するのに必要なことだったのでしょう。市の名前は、日本の伝統的な靴下である「足袋」を生産して栄えた地区の名前から、「行田」となりました。

行田足袋  (licensed by katorisi via Wikimedia Commons)
足袋の製造現場を再現した展示(行田市郷土博物館)
行田市に残る足袋倉

公園には一時球場がありましたが、城にかつてあった三階櫓のような外観を持つ行田市郷土博物館に置き替えられました。市の観光施設として、博物館周辺には鐘楼、門、塀なども復元されています。

1970年代の本丸周辺の航空写真

現在の本丸
行田市郷土博物館の入口

私の感想

忍城の戦いの結果は、1590年に秀吉が天下統一のために関東地方に侵攻したときの唯一の失敗と言われてきました。そしてそれは石田三成が愚かな武将だったからともされています。しかしその評価は、1600年の関ヶ原の戦いで三成が徳川家康に敗れたという結果から後付けされたものであって、正当とは言えません。三成は忍城の戦いにおける秀吉の命令の忠実な実行者であり、少なくとも城を包囲することには成功しているのです。仮に城の守備兵が成田長親ではなく、北条氏から派遣された代官に指揮されていたらどうだったでしょうか。三成にすぐに降伏していたかもしれません。忍城の戦いは、長親と三成ががっぷり四つに渡り合った名勝負だったのではないでしょうか。

成田氏の家紋、丸に三つ引き、行田市郷土博物館にて展示
堀切橋から見た石田堤

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:東北自動車道の加須ICか羽生ICから約30分かかります。城跡周辺にいくつか駐車場があります。もし石田堤跡やさきたま古墳群にも行かれるのでしたら、車を使った方がよいでしょう。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、東武線の行田市駅から歩いて約15分かかります。
東京から行田市駅まで:上越新幹線に乗って、熊谷駅で東武線に乗り換えてください。

本丸跡の石碑がある行田市郷土博物館の駐車場

リンク、参考情報

忍城跡、行田市
・「よみがえる日本の城15」学研
・「天正十八年~関東の戦国から近世~」行田市郷土博物館
・「描かれた忍城」行田市郷土博物館

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「忍城その1」に戻ります。
「忍城その2」に戻ります。

195.Nobeoka Castle Part3

A pleasure of visiting castle and castle ruins is …

Features

Main Enclosure, Final Strongpoint of Castle

You can next walk on the stone steps beside the stone walls to the Main Enclosure. The route turns left, enters a square space surrounded by other stone walls and turn left again to enter. This square space is called Masugata for protecting the entrance of the enclosure, where the gate buildings were also built on the walls. The inside of the Main Enclosure is an empty square now like the Second Enclosure, so it has a good view point of the city area. It must also have been the final strongpoint of the castle, which could use the 1,000 Murder Stone Walls to repel enemies.

Walking on the stone steps to the Main Enclosure

The map around the castle

The top of the hill next to the Main Enclosure is the Main Tower Enclosure or Base which actually didn’t have the Main Tower. The enclosure is small which could rather have been used as a lookout. There is a bell tower which the keeper still rings the bell 6 times a day at designated times. It has been done for over 140 years since 1878 after the former Drum Turret was burned down during the Seinan War in 1877. It is simple thing, but it is very rare to continue to do so without any holidays. The Three-level Turret was built below the enclosure probably as the substitute of the Main Tower. However, it unfortunately burned down in 1682 and only its stone wall base remains now.

Bell Tower still announces Time

The bell tower in the Main Enclosure, quoted from the Nobeoka City website
The ruins of the Three-level Turret  (licensed by PIXTA)

If you have time, I recommend visiting the western side of the Second Enclosure which was also surrounded by great stone walls. These stone walls were built for preventing enemies from attacking the castle and the Inner Moat was built outside of it as well. However, the outside area was turned into modern residences just across a narrow path. Therefore, you can see the great stone walls close by and an interesting contrast with many houses.

Stone Walls close to Residential Areas

The aerial photo around the castle, the stone walls of the Second Enclosure are close to residence areas

My Impression

I didn’t know about Mototane Takahashi who built the castle and the story of the 1,000 Murder Stone Walls at all before I visited the castle ruins. I think one of the pleasures of visiting castle ruins is that it will make you interested in what you really see and think much more than just reading about them or watching media.

The 1,000 Murder Stone Walls

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 10 minute drive away from Nobeoka IC on the Higashi-Kyushu Expressway. There are several parking lots for visitors around the ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot to get there form JR Nobeoka Station. You can also take the Miyazaki-kotsu bus bound for Kyushu-Hokenfukushi-Daigaku from the station and get off at the Shiyakusho-mae bus stop or take the Machinaka-junkan bus on the Uchimawari Line from the station and get off at the Kyuden-mae, Shiyakusho-nishi bus stop.
For visitors from Tokyo or Osaka: Get the JR Line at Miyazaki Airport after using a plane.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Nobeoka Castle Part1”
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