108.Tsurugaoka Castle Part3

You should also check out the partially remaining Chidokan domain school buildings in the third enclosure. They are the only remaining domain school buildings in the Tohoku Region, including two gates, the Confucian temple, a lecture hall and Oiri-no-ma Rooms which were used as the waiting rooms for the lord.

Features

Chidokan Domain School

You should also check out the partially remaining Chidokan domain school buildings in the third enclosure, on the opposite side of the Chidokan Museum. They are the only remaining domain school buildings in the Tohoku Region, including two gates, the Confucian temple, a lecture hall and Oiri-no-ma Rooms which were used as the waiting rooms for the lord.

The aerial photo around the castle

The front gate of the domain school
The Confucian temple
The lecture hall
The waiting rooms for the lord

The interior of the buildings are also used to exhibit the history of the school and the domain. The other missing buildings’ bases can be seen outside. The surrender ceremony of the Shonai Domain to the New Government Army was held at this site during the Meiji Restoration. In addition, the site of the domain school has been designated as a National Historic Site since 1951.

The exhibitions in the lecture hall
The living room for the load
The other missing buildings’ bases

Later History

Despite the defeat of the domain, it was allowed to maintain its territory while its ally, the Aizu Domain,was transferred to a much smaller and poorer land. It’s believed this was possible because of the tolerance of the government’s leader, Takamori Saigo. On the other hand, the domain had to pay large sums of money, which was mainly funded by the Honma Clan, to the government in return for it. However, since then, the people in Shonai have greatly respected Saigo and the head of the domain, including the former lord, Tadazumi Sakai, visited and communicated with him. When Saigo rebelled against the government in 1878, known as the Seinan War, two warriors of Shonai supported and died with him. Even after Saigo was defeated, Shonai people still loved his works and published his last instructions in 1890, called Nanshu-ou-ikun, (meaning “the last instructions of the old Nanshu” (Saigo’s pen name)).

The portrait of Takamori Saigo by Edoardo Chiossone (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Tadazumi Sakai (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

As for Tarugaoka Castle, it was abandoned in 1871 and turned into the Tsuruoka Park with all the castle buildings being removed in 1876. However, local people have been doing their best to maintain the castle ruins in a way of each period, as we can now see.

The Tsuruoka Park

My Impression

When I visited the ruins of Tsurugaoka Castle, I learned about its history in the three museums at the site, each which seems to focus on distinct perspectives. It felt like the Chidokan Museum focuses on the castle in the lord’s retreat, and the Taihokan Museum focuses on the famous historical local figures, and the Chidokan domain school focuses on the domain’s history. I was able to learn a lot about them in a short time and could feel the passion the locals have for passing on their culture and history to the next generations. I also want to visit Sakata City someday and its ruins of Kamegaoka Castle, which are the partner city and castle to Tsuruoka City and Tsurugaoka Castle.

The entrance of the retreat in the Chidokan Museum
The entrance of the Taihokan Museum
The entrance of the lecture hall in the Chidokan domain school

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10 minutes drive away from Tsuruoka IC on the Yamagata Expressway. There are several parking lots around the park.
By public transportation, take the Shonai Kotsu Bus bound for Yunohama-onsen from Tsuruoka Satation and get off at the Shiyakusho-mae bus stop.
From Tokyo to the station: Take the Joetsu Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Inaho limited express at Nigata Station.

The parking lot beside the eastern entrance

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Tsurugaoka Castle Part1”
Back to “Tsurugaoka Castle Part2”

108.鶴ヶ岡城 その3

一部残っている藩校致道館の建物にも行ってみて下さい。東北地方では唯一現存している藩校の建物です。二つの門、聖廟、講堂、そして藩主の訪問時に使われた「御入りの間」が残っています。

特徴、見どころ

藩校致道館

また、致道博物館とは反対側の三の丸にある、一部残っている藩校致道館の建物にも行ってみて下さい。東北地方では唯一現存している藩校の建物です。二つの門、聖廟、講堂、そして藩主の訪問時に使われた「御入りの間」が残っています。

城周辺の航空写真

致道館の表御門
聖廟
講堂
御入りの間

建物の中は、藩校や藩の歴史についての展示も行っています。今はなくなってしまった他の建物跡は、屋外に平面展示されています。明治維新のときの、庄内藩の新政府軍への降伏式はここで行われました。また、この藩校があった範囲は、1951年以来、国の史跡に指定されています。

講堂内の展示
藩主のための御居間
屋外にある平面展示

その後

庄内藩は戦いに敗れましたが、その領地を維持することを認められました。一方、同盟を結んでいた会津藩は、狭く貧しい土地に移動させられていました。この大きな差は、新政府のリーダー、西郷隆盛が庄内藩に対して寛容を示したからだとされています。しかし、庄内藩はその代償として新政府に対し、主には本間家から用立てされた莫大な献金をしなければならなかった一面もあります。それでもそれ以来、庄内の人たちは西郷を大いに尊敬し、前藩主の酒井忠篤(さかいただずみ)など藩の首脳たちは西郷の許を訪れ、交流を重ねました。1878年に西郷が政府に反乱を起こしたとき(西南戦争)、庄内の2人の士族が西郷とともに戦い、命を落としました(もっと多くの庄内人も加わろうとしましたが、周りに引き留められたそうです)。西郷が敗れた後も、庄内の人たちは彼を敬愛し続け、1890年には西郷の教えをまとめた「南洲翁遺訓」を出版しました。

西郷隆盛像、エドアルド・キヨッソーネ作 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
酒井忠篤 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

鶴ヶ岡城に関しては、1871年に廃城となり、1876年には城の全ての建物が撤去され鶴岡公園となりました。しかし、地元の人たちは、現在見られるようなそれぞれの時代に応じたやり方で、城跡の維持に最善を尽くしています。

鶴岡公園

私の感想

鶴ヶ岡城跡を訪れたとき、現地にある3つの博物館でその歴史を学ぶことができました。そして、それぞれの博物館には特徴があったように思います。致道博物館では、隠居所に城についての展示が多くありました。大宝館では郷土の偉人についての展示が、藩校の致道館では藩の歴史についての展示がありました。短時間で多くのことを学ぶことができましたし、地元の人たちの文化や歴史を次世代に伝えていこうとする熱意も感じることができました。また、鶴岡市と鶴ヶ岡城と両輪の関係にあった酒田市や亀ヶ岡城跡にも行ってみたいと思っています。

致道博物館の隠居所入口
大宝館入口
致道館講堂入口

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:山形自動車道の鶴岡ICから約10分かかります。公園の周りに駐車場がいくつもあります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、鶴岡駅から湯野浜温泉行の庄内交通バスに乗って、市役所前バス停で降りてください。
東京から鶴岡駅まで:上越新幹線に乗って、新潟駅で特急いなほ号に乗り替えてください。

公園東入口にある駐車場

リンク、参考情報

鶴岡公園(鶴ヶ岡城址)の紹介、鶴岡市
・「シリーズ藩物語 庄内藩/本間勝善著」現代書館
・「藩祖・酒井忠勝 展示解説書」致道博物館
・「よみがえる日本の城17」学研

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「鶴ヶ岡城その1」に戻ります。
「鶴ヶ岡城その2」に戻ります。

124.Shinagawa Batteries Part2

The battery is basically a flat structure to avoid being targeted from enemies’ guns and cannons, so visitors can not easily recognize its whole view. That’s why I recommend seeing the bird’s eye view before or after your visitation.

Later History

The later lives of the Shinagawa batteries have been mixed.
The No.1 and 5 Batteries have been engulfed by landfills.
The No.2 and No.7 (which was left because of the canceled construction) have been removed due to the convenience of transportation.
The No.4 (same as No.7) was sold to the private sector before being used for the ground of a dock. The ground has finally become a redevelopmental area of the waterfront, called Tennoz Isle. The remaining stone walls of the No.4 Battery can be seen as the base of its boardwalk.
The No.3 and No.6 are the last remaining historical sites. They were designated as a National Historic Site in 1926 and the No.3 Battery was opened as the Daiba Park in 1928.

Shinagawa Batteries drawn in a Ukiyoe-painting called the illustration of a steam locomotive at the seaside below Yatsuyama Mountain in Tokyo, attributed to Hiroshige Utagawa the third, in the Meiji Era, exhibited by Tokyo Metropolitan Library, The No.2 Battery was used as a lighthouse

The aerial photo around the batteries around 1945 to 1950

The aerial photo around the batteries around 1975

The Tennoz Isle
The boardwalk of Tennoz Isle
The stone walls of the No.4 Battery support the boardwalk

How to get There

Currently, there are two remaining batteries, No.3 and No.6 out of the five completed ones as mentioned above. In addition, only the ruins of the No.3 Battery are open to the public as a park. If you want to visit the No.3 battery ruins, which has now become Daiba Park, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from Odaibakaihinkoen Station on the Yurikamome line.

Odaibakaihinkoen Station

Walking from Tamachi Station

However, in order to look over the whole view of the two ruins (No.3 and No.6), try this route.
Get out of the train at Tamachi station on the JR Yamanote Line. Exit from the east entrance of the station. Go along Nagisa street for the time being. You can see the Rainbow Bridge which has promenades on both sides (north and south).

The east entrance of Tamachi Station
The Nagisa street
Going along the street
You can see the Rainbow Bridge

Get in the Shibaura entrance of the bridge and go up using the elevator. Select the south route to see the ruins to the south. If you go straight through the promenade, you will first see the whole view of the No.6 Battery.

The Shibaura entrance of the bridge
The entrance to the promenade
In the elevator
The south route

No.6 Battery like Birds’ Paradise

The battery is still isolated in the Tokyo Bay, being left as it has been to keep its original condition as much as possible though the canons and relative facilities were already removed. That’s why it looks as if it was during the first sight. However, if you look at it carefully, it is all covered with trees with uncountable number of birds gathering. According to a historian who visited it with permission from the government, it smells very bad and some structures collapsed naturally. It might have just become the birds’ paradise, so we may need to re-consider how to preserve it.

Getting close to the No.6 Battery
The No.6 Battery
birds are gathering among the trees
Passing by the No.6 Battery

Great View of No.3 Battery

When the promenade goes down with moderate slope, you will be near the park and the view of the No.3 Battery is becoming bigger and bigger. At this point, you will be facing the pier of the battery, it is the biggest one and extremely amazing! It is really a bird’s eye view. It also looks very much better than the No.6 in my opinion. The battery is basically a flat structure to avoid being targeted from enemies’ guns and cannons, so visitors can not easily recognize its whole view. That’s why I recommend seeing the bird’s eye view before or after your visitation.

Getting close to the No.3 Battery
The great view of the No.3 Battery right in front
The signpost of the Shinagawa Batteries at the edge
The stone walls surrounding the battery

To be continued in “Shinagawa Batteries Part3”
Back to “Shinagawa Batteries Part1”