112.Kasama Castle Part2

Today, the ruins of Kasama Castle have been convenient for both drivers and hikers. For example, if you drive to the ruins, you can choose either parking at the foot of the mountain before a long walk or parking at the mid slope near the top.

Features

Walking from Foot is recommended

Today, the ruins of Kasama Castle have been convenient for both drivers and hikers. For example, if you drive to the ruins, you can choose either parking at the foot of the mountain before a long walk or parking at the mid slope near the top. However, if you have enough time to visit there, it may be better to take the former route because there are many more attractions of the castle widely spread throughout.

The map around the castle

Therefore, let us start from the parking lot at the foot to reach the top via the forest road to the mid slope for visiting the ruins by walk mentioned earlier in this article. Please be careful of the many cars that might pass your side. There are several hills around the castle ruins, so you will go on the winding road among the hills. The road eventually turns right at a right angle, which is the entrance to the castle ruins. In addition, if you go straight passing though the spot on the narrow path, you will get to the ruins of the northern gateway called Sakao-no-dorui (meaning the earthen walls of Sakao).

The parking lot at the foot of the mountain
The forest road to the castle ruins
If you turn right, you will get to the castle ruins, or you will be at the earthen walls of Sakao if you go straight
The earthen walls of Sakao

Looking at Mysterious Huge Rock and Outer Dry Moats

Going back to the forest road to the castle, you will see a huge rock which partially blocks the road on the left. It is called Daikokuseki (meaning the Rock of Mahakala) which has an interesting folklore as the following. When Shofukuji Temple fought against Tokuzoji Temple but was outnumbered and was at disadvantage, the huge rock near the top suddenly collapsed. The rock crushed the monk soldiers of Tokuzoji side on the narrow path, which resulted in their withdrawal. Since then, the rock has been called the Rock of Mahakala because it looks like the sack Mahalaka has and brought a fortune to the Shofukuji side which was located on the mountain (Mahalaka is the god of wealth in Japan).

Getting close to the rock
Be careful when you pass through the rock

You will next see a large ditch on the left, which is part of the outer dry moats surrounding the whole castle area. That means this is where the entrance of the castle is. You will then walk on the road with a hill on the left and another hill over the valley on the right. They are all the ruins of the forts, so if you were an enemy, you would be attacked from both sides.

The Outer Dry Moats
There was a fort on the hill on the left of the road
There was another fort on the right of the road across the valley

Sennin-Damari Enclosure and One Hundred Quarters Ruins at Mid Slope

You will eventually turn right and go across an earthen bridge over the valley before arriving at the parking lot at the mid slope. It was actually a large enclosure called Sennin-Damari (meaning Accommodating Ten Thousand Soldiers), which was probably used as a military post or barracks.

If you turn right, you will get to Sennin-Damari Enclosure, and there are the ruins of the One Hundred Quarters on the left
The Sennin-Damari Enclosure, seen from the ruins of the One Hundred Quarters
The Sennin-Damari Enclosure (the parking lot at mid slope)

There is also the ruin of the One Hundred Quarters of Shofukuji Temple opposite the enclosure across the forest road, where the temple prospered. However, there are no buildings and structures, but only the signboard and leveled ground with few graves, so it may look like another ruins of the castle’s fort.

The ruin of the One Hundred Quarters
There are few graves remaining

From Main Gate to Main Enclosure

All visitors have to walk from the Sennin-Damari Enclosure to the center after passing a gate built by alternating stone walls. However, you can easily go on the restricted road to the top beside some castle items such as the Main Gate Ruins and partially remaining stone walls.

Every visitor has to walk from the Sennin-Damari Enclosure
The ruins of the Main Gate
You can easily get to the Main Enclosure along the restricted road
The remaining stone walls on the way

You actually have another option to get to the top by walking on a rough path through the original gates. You can first take the stone steps of the Main Gate and pass its Masugata system. Then, you will once meet the restricted road, but you can find other stone steps to the path on the right.

The map around the castle, the red broken line indicates the route through the original gates

Climbing the stone steps of the Main Gate
You will once meet the restricted road
You will find other stone steps to the path on the right

If you go on the path crossing the slope, you will pass beside the Second Enclosure and reach the ruins of the Main Enclosure Gate which are similar to the Main Gate. No matter which way you choose, you will arrive at the same place, the Main Enclosure.

Going on the path crossing the slope
There is the Main Enclosure ahead and the Second Enclosure on the right
Arriving at the ruins of the Main Enclosure Gate
The Masugata system of the Main Enclosure Gate remains maybe better than the Main Gate
In the miniature model of Kasama Castle, the gate in the red circle is the Main Gate and that in the blue circle is the Main Enclosure Gate, I think

To be continued in “Kasama Castle Part3”
Back to “Kasama Castle Part1”

112.笠間城 その2

現在、笠間城跡は車で行く人にとっても、歩いていく人にとっても便利なように整備されています。例えば、車で城跡に行った場合、山麓の駐車場に停めて長距離を歩くこともできますし、頂上に近い中腹に駐車することもできます。

特徴、見どころ

山麓からの歩きがおすすめ

現在、笠間城跡は車で行く人にとっても、歩いていく人にとっても便利なように整備されています。例えば、車で城跡に行った場合、山麓の駐車場に停めて長い距離を歩くこともできますし、頂上に近い中腹に駐車することもできます。ただ、もし現地で十分時間が確保できるのであれば、前者を選択されるのをお勧めします。この城の見どころが広範囲に広がっているからです。

城周辺の地図

したがって、この記事でも先ほど述べた通りに、山麓の駐車場から歩いて中腹にある林道を経由して頂上に至る方法で城跡に向かってみようと思います。歩く際には多くの車が通り過ぎるかもしれませんので、気を付けて下さい。城跡の周りには、いくつもの丘陵があるため、その間を曲がりくねっている道を進んでいきます。そうするうちに道は、右方向に直角に曲がりますが、ここが城跡への入口となります。ちなみに、その道を曲がらずにまっすぐ進み狭い道に入ると、城の北側の関門である「坂尾の土塁」に至ります。

山麓の駐車場
城跡に向かう林道
右に曲がると城跡、まっすぐ行くと坂尾の土塁
坂尾の土塁

不思議な巨石や外郭空堀を見学

城に向かう林道に戻ってみると、左側に道を半ば塞いでいる巨石が見えてきます。この石は「大黒石」と呼ばれていて、次のような面白い逸話が伝わっています。正福寺が徳蔵寺と争い、多勢に無勢で不利になっていたとき、山頂近くにあったこの巨石が突然転がってきたのです。そして、この細道で徳蔵寺方の僧兵たちを押しつぶし、撤退に追い込んだということです。それ以来、この石は大黒石と呼ばれるようになりますが、大黒様が担いでいる袋に似ているとか、山上にあった正福寺側に幸運をもたらしたという所から来ています(実際にはこの石は築城のはるか以前から存在しているようです)。

大黒石が見えてきました
通行には気を付けましょう

次には、左側に大きな堀切が見えます。これは全城域を囲む、外郭の空堀の一部です。つまり、ここは城の入口ということになります。そして、左側には丘陵が、右側には谷を越えたところにもう一つの丘陵がある道を進んでいきます。これらは皆、堡塁の跡であり、もし敵であったなら両側から攻撃を受けることになるでしょう。

外郭の空堀
林道の左側の丘陵には堡塁がありました
林道の右側の谷向こうにも堡塁跡があります

中腹にある千人溜と笠間百坊跡

ずっと進んでいってから右に曲がり、谷にかかる土橋を渡ると、中腹にある駐車場に到着します。ここは実際には千人溜と呼ばれる大きな曲輪(「的場丸」ともいいます)で、恐らくは駐屯地か兵舎のために使われていたと思われます。

右に曲がると千人溜、左側に百坊跡があります
百坊跡から見た千人溜
千人溜(中腹駐車場)

林道を渡った反対側には、正福寺の百坊跡があり、そこが寺が繁栄していた場所でした。しかし今では建物や構造物はなく、説明板と整地された土地に若干の墓地があるだけです。ここも城の堡塁の一つであったようにも見えます。

笠間百坊跡
僅かに墓地が残っています

大手門から本丸へ

全てのビジターは、千人溜からは食い違いの入口を通り過ぎて、中心部まで歩いていくことになります。しかし、頂上まで作業道が通じているので、大手門跡、部分的に残っている石垣などを見ながら、楽に登って行くことができます。

千人溜から先は皆歩きです
大手門跡
作業道を進めば本丸に着きます
途中に残る石垣

しかしここでも頂上に行く別の選択肢があって、荒れた小道となりますが、オリジナルの門跡を通って頂上に行く方法もあります。まず、大手門の石段を上がって、桝形を通り過ぎます。一旦は作業道に合流しますが、右側に別の石段を見つけていただくと、そこから小道に入っていけます。

城中心部の地図、赤破線はオリジナルの門跡を通るルート

大手門の階段を登ります
一旦作業道に合流します
作業道の右側に階段を見つけます

斜面に沿った道を渡っていくと、二の丸の脇を過ぎて、本丸門跡にたどり着きます。ここは大手門と同様の作りとなっています。どちらのルートを選んでも、同じ本丸に到着します。

斜面に沿った小道を進みます
前方が本丸、右側が二の丸
本丸門跡に着きます
大手門より桝形がはっきり残っています
井筒屋の模型では、赤丸が大手門、青丸が本丸門だと思います

「笠間城その3」に続きます。
「笠間城その1」に戻ります。

60.Ako Castle Part3

According to Historians, The 47 Ronin assaulted Kira due to their Samurai Spirit. If it’s true, why is the story still so popular among many current Japanese people?

Features

Many Attractions in Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure is compact and all surrounded by stone walls and water moats, so you can easily see its complex layout. There are three entrances to it but only two of them are available excluding Hanebashi-mon (meaning Draw Bridge Gate) in the back of the southern side.

The aerial photo around the Main Enclosure of the castle, the red markers indicates its three entrances

The stone walls and water moats of the Main Enclosure
The ruins of the Draw Bridge Gate

The front gate of the northern side was restored and has the Masugata system as well.

The front gate
The inside of the Masugata system

The other one of the eastern side, called Umaya-guchi-mon (meaning Stable Side Gate), was also restored. The gate was simple but the stone walls around are bent elaborately to protect the gate from guns and arrows from the walls.

The front side of the Stable Side Gate
The back side of the Stable Side Gate

There was the Main Hall inside where the lords including Asano (Takumi-no-kami) lived. Now, there is a flat exhibition of the hall instead, where you can see its layout and what rooms were in it.

The layout of the Main Hall drawn in the illustration during the Edo Period, from the signboard at the site
the flat exhibition of the layout

The large stone wall base for a Main Tower stands out at its corner and you can climb it and see the view of the area around from the top.

The Main Tower base
A view from the top of the base

There is also a small but beautiful pond garden which is designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty, together with that of the Second Enclosure.

The pond garden

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Ako Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were sold or demolished. Most of the moats were buried and turned into fields and residences area with other castle’s land. The Main Enclosure was used as a school until 1981. The Oishi Shrine was established in 1912. The restoration of the castle started in 1935 where the moats in front of the Main Enclosure were re-dug. Since then, many other buildings and structures of the castle have been restored probably because of the popularity of the incident and Ronin. The ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1971.

The old photo of the Main Enclosure front gate, from the signboard at the site
The old photo of the Second Enclosure gate, from the signboard at the site
The ruins of Ako Castle in the 1930’s  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

My Impression

I honestly say I don’t like the Ako Incident story because there was no good reason for killing Kira (in addition, in the very popular play “Chushin-gura” based on this incident, Asano cuts Kira at the front (in fact, it was from the back) after Kira’s bullying due to Asano refusing the huge bribe or Asano’s wife refusing Kira’s love). Historians say this was done due to Bushi-do (the Samurai Spirit) which refers to their devotion to their master or domain with honor and pride even without any reasons. If it’s true, why is the story still so popular among many current Japanese people? I guess it’s because they still have the same or similar devotion to Samurai in the Edo Period as they sometimes look devoted to their boss or company without any reasons to survive. I also speculate that Oishi might have understood his master was mad but he didn’t have any other choice.

A Ukiyoe-painting of Asano assaulting Kira in the Edo Castle, attributed to Kuniteru Utagawa (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10 minutes’ drive away from Ako IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There are several parking lots around the castle ruins.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to get there from JR Banshu-Ako Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to the station: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express express and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Himeji Station or the Ako Line at Aiou Station.

Banshu-Ako Station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “AKo Castle Part1”
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