181.Kokura Castle Part3

In the morning of the 9th August of 1945, a US B-29 bomber, called Bockscar, was carrying the second atomic bomb to Japan. In fact, its first target was the arms factory of Kokura (in the third enclosure of Kokura Castle).

Features

Other Enclosures of Castle

The park still has other enclosures. Kita-no-maru (meaning the northern enclosure) was used as the lord’s family residence or retreat and is used as Kokura-Gion-Yasaka Shrine. It is connected to the main enclosure via Tamon-guchi-mon Gate where you can see the oldest stone walls in the castle around. The walls had been built by Katsunari Mori before Tadaoki Hosokawa came. There are also well-maintained stone walls and water moats around the Kita-no-maru Enclosure, so this is a good walking spot.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Kita-no-maru enclosure (the current Kokura-Gion-Yasaka Shrine)
The Tamonguchi-mon Gate, quoted from Kokura Castle Website
The stone walls and water moats surrounding the Kita-no-maru Enclosure

Matsu-no-maru (meaning the pine enclosure) is in the south of the main enclosure. It was used as Tadaoki’s father’s residence or warehouses when the castle was active; it is currently an event square. It was once used as the headquarters of the 12th Brigade like the main enclosure.

The Matsu-no-maru Enclosure

Third Enclosure including Monument for Atomic Bomb Victims

If you go further to the south, there is a modern park area which was the third enclosure used as the senior vassals’ residences. During World War II, there was a large arms factory, but now there is a monument for atomic bomb victims. The reason for it will be written in the next section.

The third enclosure

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, the main portion of Kokura Castle was turned into military facilities and the other area became the city area of Kokura. It changed from a Samurai city to a military city. In the morning of the 9th August of 1945, a US B-29 bomber, called Bockscar, was carrying the second atomic bomb to Japan. In fact, its first target was the arms factory of Kokura. However, it could not focus on the target because of thick cloud and finally dropped the bomb into Nagasaki. As a result, people in Kokura were lucky, but they should not be pleased about it. That’s why the former factory site has the monument. After the the war, the occupation army used the castle site until 1957. The current Main Tower was rebuilt in 1959.

Bockscar, exhibited by National Museum of the United States Air Force  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The monument for the atomic bomb victims in the third enclosure

My Impression

I think that if the current Main Tower of Kokura Castle had kept the original design of the Western style, it would be more popular than now. This is because the design is very unique which would attract more current visitors. However, the people who wanted to rebuild the tower chose another direction. That was probably because they wanted a tower which was competitive with other castles. I don’t think the tower ever needs to be replaced with a new one with an original design because it would cost a lot and the current tower is also a historical item.

The current Main Tower of Kokura Castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 5-minute drive away from Katsuyama Exit on the Kitakyushu Expressway.
There is a parking lot in the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from JR Kokura Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to the station: take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express.

Kokura Station

Links and References

Kokura Castle Official Website

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kokura Castle Part1”
Back to “Kokura Castle Part2”

181.小倉城 その3

1945年8月9日の午前、アメリカ軍のB-29爆撃機「ボックスカー」号が日本に投下する2発目の原爆を搭載し飛行していました。実は、その第1目標は小倉の陸軍造兵廠(小倉城の三の丸)でした。

特徴、見どころ

北の丸と松の丸

公園の中には他の曲輪もあります。北の丸は本丸の北側にあり、領主の家族の屋敷や、隠居所として使われました。今では小倉祇園八坂神社となっています。本丸とは多聞口門を通じてつながっていて、その周辺には城では最も古い石垣を見ることができます。細川忠興が小倉に来る前に、毛利勝信が築いたものです。北の丸の周りでは石垣と水堀がよく維持されていて、歩いてみるには丁度よい場所です。

城周辺の航空写真

北の丸(現・小倉祇園八坂神社)
多聞口門、小倉城ホームページより引用
北の丸を囲む石垣と水堀

本丸の南にある松の丸は、城の現役時代には忠興の父親(細川幽斎)の屋敷や倉庫として使われていました。今はイベント広場になっていますが、一時は本丸と同じように、第12旅団の司令部として使われました。

松の丸

原爆慰霊碑がある三の丸

更に南の方に行ってみると近代的な公園になっていますが、かつては三の丸として重臣たちの屋敷地になっていました。第二次世界短戦中には陸軍の造兵廠(兵器工場)がありました。現在公園の中には原爆犠牲者の慰霊碑があります。これについては、次に述べます。

三の丸

その後

明治維新後、小倉城の主要部分は軍関係の施設に転用され、他の部分は小倉の市街地となりました。武士の都から軍都になったわけです。1945年8月9日の午前、アメリカ軍のB-29爆撃機「ボックスカー」号が日本に投下する2発目の原爆を搭載し飛行していました。実は、その第1目標は小倉の陸軍造兵廠でした。しかし厚い雲のために目標を捕捉できず、第2目標地である長崎に投下することになったのです。結果的には小倉の人々は不幸を逃れたということになりますが、喜ぶべきことではありません。そのために造兵廠跡地である場所に慰霊碑があるのです。戦後は占領軍が城地を1957年まで使っていました。現在の天守が再建されたのは1959年のことです、

国立アメリカ空軍博物館に展示されるボックスカー号 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
三の丸にある原爆犠牲者慰霊碑

私の感想

もし現在の小倉城天守がオリジナルの南蛮造りのまま再建されていたら、今よりももっと人気が出ていたと思うのです。オリジナルの外観はとても独特であり、現在のビジターにとってはそちらの方が魅力的だったでしょう。しかし、現在の天守を再建したいと思った人たちは違う選択をしました。恐らく、他の天守がある城に負けないものにしたかったのではないでしょうか。とはいっても天守をオリジナルのデザインに替えた方がいいとまでは思いません。大変なお金がかかることですし、現在の天守もある意味では歴史的な建物になりうるからです。

現在の小倉城天守

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:北九州都市高速勝山出口より約5分のところです。公園内に駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR小倉駅より歩いて約15分かかります。
東京または大阪から小倉駅まで:山陽新幹線に乗ってください。

小倉駅

リンク、参考情報

小倉城 公式サイト
・「小倉城と城下町/北九州市立自然史歴史博物館編」海鳥社
・「よみがえる日本の城20」学研
・「日本の城改訂版第95号」デアゴスティーニジャパン
・「幕末維新の城/一坂太郎著」中公新書

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「小倉城その1」に戻ります。
「小倉城その2」に戻ります。

105.Shiroishi Castle Part3

You can also visit other attractions regarding Shiroishi Castle in the former castle town. First of all, there is a remaining Samurai Residence in the former third enclosure, in the north of the castle. The residence was confirmed to be built in 1730.

Features

My Impression

Interior of Main Tower

You can enter the Main Tower from the inside of the enclosure by climbing the roofed stone steps. In fact, the steps were used only for the lord of the domain, the Date Clan, like their private rooms in the Main Hall of the enclosure. The others used the side entrance in the connecting tower next to the Main Tower.

The Main Tower seen from the inside of the main enclosure
The miniature model of the tower also has the roofed steps
The stone steps to the entrance

The tower has three floors, which were all wooden in a traditional manner. Its columns are made of Japanese Yoshino cypress which would be usable for about 250 years. The design of the first floor was discovered by the excavations, so the floor has the storage space in the center and the surrounding defense passage. Defense systems like machicolations, loopholes, and lattice windows, are built along the passage or on the walls.

The first floor of the tower
Armors are exhibited in the center
A lattice window on the left and a machicolation on the right
A loophole

The steps to the upstairs are very steep, but more gentle than the original and you can use modern handrails for support. The second and top floors are designed by the builder’s assumption because there was no evidence of them, but are orthodox. The top floor was built as a lookout position, which is probably a fact and a good viewing spot for the current visitors.

The steps at the second floor
The top floor
A view from the top
A view of the main enclosure and the city area from the top

Attractions of Castle Town

You can also visit other attractions regarding Shiroishi Castle in the former castle town. First of all, there is a remaining Samurai Residence in the former third enclosure, in the north of the castle. The residence was confirmed to be built in 1730. The Koseki Clan, one of the middle-class warriors under the Katakura Clan, lived in it for a long time. Their descendants also lived in it until 1991 before they donated it to the city. The city restored it to its original conditions and opened it to the public the following year.

The former Koseki’s residence

The aerial photo around the city area

The residence is small and simple with a thatched roof and four rooms ( 2 wooden floors, 1 earthen floor, amd 1 Tatami matted floor). This was probably because the warriors in Shiroishi had lower incomes than those who directly served the Date Clan. However, the Sawabata River flows along two sides of the residence, which is a very good location.

The living room (one of the wooden floors)
The Tatami room (probably for the master)
The Japanese garden beside the residence
The Sawabata River flows around the residence

Other than that, you can walk along the waterways and find the two moved castle gates in Toshinji and Enmeji Temples.

A gate moved from the castle to the Toshinji Temple
Another gate moved from the castle to the Enmeiji Temple (under repairing)

My Impression

Overall, Shiroishi Castle survived thanks to the two exemptions. One is that of the Law of One Castle per Province (or the lord’s territory) by the shogunate during the Edo Period. The other is that of Japan’s Building Standard Act in the present time. In addition, I think we would not be able to see the Main Tower of the castle without the great contributions of the Katakura CLan and the current Shiroishi people.

The restored Main Tower

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Shiroishi IC on the Tohoku Expressway.
There is a parking lot at the eastern foot of the hill called “Joka-hiroba”.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from JR Shiroishi Station or it takes about 5 minutes by taxi from Tohoku Shinkansan Shiroishi-Zao Station.
From Tokyo to Shiroishi Station: take the Tohoku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tohoku Line at Fukushima Station.

Shiroishi Station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shiroishi Castle Part1”
Back to “Shiroishi Castle Part2”