19.Kawagoe Castle Part1

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. Its former castle town is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. The castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

Location and History

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. The city is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. In fact, the streets were mostly rebuilt after Kawagoe Great Fire in 1893 of the Meiji Era, not during the Edo Period. However, the city area originates from the castle town of Kawagoe Castle. In addition, the castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

The range of Kawagoe City and the location of the castle

The Osawa Clan’s residence, the originator of the Kura storehouses, which survived the great fire and was followed by the others
Toki-no-kane (time bell tower) of Kawagoe

Dokan Ota builds Castle

The Kawagoe area is surrounded by curved Iruma River in three directions, the north, east and west. That’s why the city’s name may come from the place you need to go over (Goe) the river (Kawa). The first lord family of the area is said to be the Kawagoe Clan which lived in the western riverside of the Iruma River between the 12th and 14th Centuries. The clan’s residence was still not located in the later Kawagoe Castle. The castle was first built in 1457 by Dokan Ota who was a senior vassal of the Ogigayatsu Uesugi Clan. The clan had been fighting against the Ashikaga Clan since 1455, together with the relative Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan. They confronted at Tone River, the largest river in the Kanto Region. The Uesugi Clans took their positions at the western side of the river, that’s why they needed several new castles behind the river. Kawagoe Castle was one of the three major ones, followed by Edo and Iwatsuki Castles.

The map around the castle

The ruins of the Kawagoe Clan’s residence
The copy of the sitting statue of Dokan Ota, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum
Part of “View of Edo” left screen. pair of six-panel folding screens, in the 17th century, owned by National Museum of Japanese History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Stage of Night Battle of Kawagoe

Kawagoe Castle eventually became the home of the Ogikayatsu Uesugi Clan. When the clan had an internal conflict with the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan during the beginning of the 16th Century, the castle became the frontline of the battle. This was because the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan reused the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence as its encampment across the Iruma River. During their internal fighting, the Hojo Clan invaded the Kanto Region and finally captured Kawagoe Castle in 1537. Both Uesugi Clans noticed their crisis and made peace with each other to get the castle back. The clans’ large troops surrounded the castle which was owned by Tsunanari Hojo in October of 1545.

The ruins of the moats the Yamanouchi-Uesugi Clan built at the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence

The castle was still small at that time and located at the edge of Musashino Plateau with few enclosures made of soil. However, it was protected by natural waterlogged areas around the Iruma River in three directions, the north, south and east. It was thought that artificial ditches and moats were built in the other direction and around the castle. In April of 1546, Ujiyasu Hojo, the lord of the clan reinforced the castle. He announced that he and the castle would surrender to the Uesugi Clans, which threw them off their guard. On 20th of April, Ujiyasu started a night attack against the Uesugi Clans, which was called the Night Battle of Kawagoe. A severe battle happened at Tomyoji Temple, just about 800m away from the center of the castle. That resulted in the Hojo’s hegemony and the Uesugi’s destruction in the region.

The relief map around the castle, the slight elevation around Shingashi RIver is the Musashino Plateau

Isanuma Marsh, located in the east of the castle ruins, around the castle may have been like this in the past
The current Tomyoji Temple
The portrait of Ujityasu Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Place to Stay for Shoguns

The region was owned by the Tokugawa Clan at the end of the 16th Century and the Tokugawa Shogunate was established in 1603. Edo Castle became the shogun’s home, so Kawagoe Castle became an important defense for Edo Castle to the north. That’s why the Sakai Clan, which was trusted by the shoguns, became the lords of Kawagoe Castle. Oher than that, the 1st shogun (Ieyasu) and the 3rd shogun (Iemitsu) often stayed in Kawagoe Castle when they went hunting. There was an episode which indicated their relationship with Kawagoe as following. The Kitain Temple in Kawagoe was re-established by Priest Tenkai who was also trusted by the shoguns in 1599. However, it was burned down by a great fire in 1638. The shogun, Iemitsu ordered to immediately restore the temple, offering some Edo Castle’s buildings including his birth room and his foster mother, Lady Kasuga’s make-up room. They are remaining in the temple.

The main enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, the buildings inside seem to have been the shogun’s loggings, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories
The portrait of Iemitsu Tokugawa, owned by Kinzanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Kitain Temple (its multi-treasure pagoda)
The buildings of the former Edo Castle Main Hall, remaining in the temple

Important Defense and Satellite City for Edo

The castle and the area around were followed by several other hereditary vassals of the shoguns as the Kawagoe Domain. Some of them became members of the shogun’s council of elders in the central government. One of them, Nobutsuna Matsudaira improved the castle. He doubled the castle’s range by building new enclosures, turrets and gates. However, the castle was still basically made of soil without the Main Tower, which looked like a group of halls. To prevent enemies from invading, complex routes were built with earthen walls, mud walls, and water moats, instead of high stone walls and turrets in other castles. The castle town was also developed with Kawagoe Road, Shingashi River as waterways, and agricultural land. As a result, the town prospered by providing their products, such as Somen noodles, silk goods, and Kawagoe sweet potatoes which is still popular, to Edo City which was already one of the largest cities in the world.

The miniature model of Kawagoe Castle after the improvement, the Kitain Temple is over there, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum
Kawagoe sweet potatoes

The center of the castle was the Main Hall in the second enclosure. While the main enclosure had been used as the loggings for the shoguns it was abandoned for sometime. After the Main Hall was burned down in 1846, the Kawagoe Domain decided to rebuild the hall in the main enclosure. Although the domain was facing huge financial problems due to being in charge of the coast guard of Edo Bay against possible invasions form the Western ships, the hall was completed in 1848 thanks to lots of additional taxes and donations from locals.

The second enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories
The remaininng Main Hall of Kawagoe Castle

To be continued in “Kawagoe Castle Part2”

19.川越城 その1

川越城は、関東地方の中央部、現在の埼玉県川越市にあった城でした。旧城下町は蔵造りの街並みとしてよく知られ、「小江戸」とも呼ばれて、多くの観光客を引きつけています。城と城下町は、将軍の都・江戸(現在の東京)と深い関わりを持ちながら発展してきました。

立地と歴史

川越城は、関東地方の中央部、現在の埼玉県川越市にあった城でした。川越市は蔵造りの街並みとしてよく知られ、「小江戸」とも呼ばれて、多くの観光客を引きつけています。実は蔵造りのほとんどは、江戸時代ではなく、明治時代の1893年の川越大火の後に再建されたものです。しかし、市街地そのものは川越城の城下町に由来しています。また、城と城下町は、将軍の都・江戸(現在の東京)と深い関わりを持ちながら発展してきました。

川越市の範囲と城の位置

蔵造りの元祖、大沢家の住宅(重要文化財)、川越大火で焼け残り蔵造りの街の先駆けとなりました
街のシンボル、時の鐘

太田道灌が築城

川越地域は、北と東西の三方を、蛇行した入間川に囲まれています。そのため、川越の名前の由来は、「川」を「越」えて行かなければならない場所である、とされています。最初にこの地域を治めたのは、12世紀から14世紀まで入間川西岸(蛇行した川の外側)に住み着いた河越氏であると言われています。河越氏の館があった場所は、後の川越城のところではありませんでした。川越城を最初に築いたのは、扇谷上杉(おうぎがやつうえすぎ)氏の重臣であった太田道灌で、1457年のことでした。親族の山内上杉(やまのうちうえすぎ)氏とともに、1455年から足利氏と戦っている最中でした。両軍は、関東地方最大の大河・利根川をはさんで対峙していました。上杉側は利根川の西岸に陣取っていたため、川の後方に新しい城をいくつも築く必要があったのです。川越城は、そのための主要な3つの城の一つで、他は江戸城と岩槻城でした。

城周辺の地図

河越氏館跡
太田道灌座像(複製)、川越市立博物館にて展示
「江戸図屏風」左隻部分、17世紀、国立歴史民俗博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

川越夜戦の舞台

川越城はやがて扇谷上杉氏の本拠地となりました。16世紀の初め頃、山内上杉氏との間で内部抗争が起こったとき、この城は戦いの最前線となりました。山内上杉氏が、入間川を隔てた、河越氏の元館だったところを陣屋として再利用していたからです。この内部抗争の間、北条氏が関東地方に侵攻し、ついには1537年に川越城を占領します。両上杉氏はようやく危機に気づき、講和を結んで城を取り返そうとしました。1545年10月になって、北条綱成(ほうじょうつななり)が守る川越城を、大軍をもって包囲しました。

山内上杉氏が河越氏館に堀を築いた跡

その当時は城の規模は小さく、土造りの曲輪がいくつか、武蔵野台地の端に築かれているだけでした。しかし城は、自然の要害として入間川周辺の沼沢地に三方(南北と東)を囲まれていました。残りの一方(西)と城の周辺には、人工の堀切や堀が築かれていたと考えられています。1546年の4月、北条氏の当主、北条氏康(ほうじょううじやす)が城を救援にやってきました。彼は上杉軍に対し、城はもうすぐ降伏するから城兵を助けてやってほしいと懇願し、油断させました。4月20日、氏康は上杉軍に夜襲をかけ、これが川越夜戦と呼ばれた戦いです。城の中心部からわずか800mのところ、東明寺(とうみょうじ)の辺りで激戦が繰り広げられました。この戦いにより、関東地方での北条氏の覇権が確立し、上杉氏は没落しました。

城周辺の起伏地図、新河岸川に囲まれた微高地が武蔵野台地

城跡東方にある伊佐沼、城の周りもこのようであったと思われます
現在の東明寺
北条氏康肖像画、小田原城蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

徳川将軍家の逗留地

関東地方は16世紀の終わりには徳川氏の領地となり、1603年には徳川幕府が設立されました。その際、江戸城が将軍の本拠地となったため、川越城は江戸城の北の守りを固める存在となりました。そして、将軍の信頼が厚い酒井氏が城主となったのです。それ以外にも、初代将軍・家康や3代将軍・家光は、狩りに出たときには度々川越城に逗留しました。将軍と川越の関係を表わす興味深いエピソードがあります。同じく将軍に信頼された天海僧正が、1599年に川越の喜多院を再興しました。ところが、1638年の大火により焼失してしまいます。それを聞いた時の将軍・家光は、直ちに喜多院を復興するよう命じたのです。それだけではなく、彼自身が江戸城の建物を提供し、その中には家光誕生の間や、乳母の春日局の化粧の間が含まれていました。この建物は喜多院に現存しています。

「江戸図屏風」に描かれた川越城本丸、中にある建物が将軍が泊った宿泊所とされています、出典:国立歴史民俗博物館
徳川家光肖像画、金山寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
喜多院(多宝塔)
喜多院に残る旧江戸城御殿の建物

江戸の防衛拠点、衛星都市として繁栄

川越城と周辺地域は、川越藩として何人もの譜代大名によって引き継がれました。その中には老中として政権中枢で活躍する人もいました。そのうちの一人が松平信綱で、彼は城の拡充も行いました。新しい曲輪や櫓・門を築くことで城の範囲を倍にしました。しかし城は従来と同じように基本的には土造りで、天守もありませんでした。館の集合体のような姿をしていたようです。敵の侵入を防ぐ手段としては、他の城のような高石垣や櫓を使う代わりに、土塁・土塀・水堀によって複雑な通路を形作りました。また、川越街道や水路の新河岸川とともに、農地が開発され、城下町も整備されました。産業が発展し、素麺、絹織物、そして今でも有名な川越芋などの名産品が、その頃既に世界有数の都市となっていた江戸に提供されました。その結果、城下町は大いに栄えました。

拡張された後の川越城の模型、向こう側に見えるのが喜多院、川越市立博物館にて展示
現代も名産品である川越いも

城の中心は、二の丸にあった御殿でした。本丸には将軍の宿泊所があったからです。しかし将軍が来なくなると、いつしかなくなっていました。1846年に二の丸御殿が燃えてしまうと、川越藩は本丸に御殿を再建することを決めました。その当時は西洋船が日本近海に出没していて、川越藩はその脅威から江戸湾を守るための警備を担当していました。そのため藩財政は大いに逼迫していたのですが、御殿は領民による増税負担や寄付もあって1848年に完成しました。

「江戸図屛風」に描かれた川越城二の丸、出典:国立歴史民俗博物館
現存する本丸御殿

「川越城その2」に続きます。

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181.Kokura Castle Part1

The top floor of the Main Tower hanged out, which was called Western Style. This was because its balcony and handrails were covered by black outer walls to prevent damage from bad weather and strong wind.

Location and History

Castle is built as Bridgehead in Kyushu

Kokura Castle is located in the Kokura area of Kitakyushu City at the northern edge of the Kyushu Region. For example, if you visit the region using a Shinkansen super express, the first station will be Kokura Station near the castle. The area was more well known as the entrance of the region, which had Kokura Port facing the Kanmon Strait, sandwiched by Kyushu Island and the main island of Japan. That’s why warlords, who wanted to invade the region from the mainland, tried to build a bridgehead in this area. Certain records say that Motonari Mori, who was a great warlord of the Chugoku Region, built it in 1569, which would be the former Kokura Castle. After the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the region in 1587, he gave the castle to his trusted vassal, Katsunobu Mori. However, Katsunobui was eventually fired because he was against Ieyasu Tokugawa, who would become the next ruler, in the decisive battle in 1600.

The range of Buzen Province and the location of the castle

Tadaoki Hosokawa renovates Castle

Instead, Tadaoki Hosokawa (also known as Sansai after his retirement), who had greatly supported Ieyasu in the battle, was assigned as the lord of Buzen Provence including the Kokura area and would be the founder of the Kokura Domain. He first lived in Nakatsu Castle, which the former lord of the castle, the Kuroda Clan had built, but soon started to renovate the castle in Kokura in 1602 as his new home, which would be what we call Kokura Castle.

The portrait of Tadaoki Hosokawa, owned by Eisei Bunko Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The current Nakatsu Castle Ruins

The former castle and the port was along the large estuary of Murasaki River, like a bay, when Tadaoki greatly developed the area. The area was broadly separated into the Western and Eastern Enclosures, binding the river. The Western Enclosure was also divided by water moats into smaller sub enclosures, such as the Main Enclosure, for the lord and warriors. The Eastern Enclosure became the castle town for people like merchants, craftsmen and monks. Furthermore, the whole area was surrounded by other natural or artificial rivers as the outermost moat whose perimeter was about 8km. Tadaoki thought if a large enemy force attacked the castle, he would flood the enemy by breaking the banks of the rivers.

the whole Kokura Castle drawn in “the illustration of Kokura Samurai residences”, from the signboard at the site, adding the English comments
Sunatsu River, the western part of the outermost moat

Characteristic Main Tower

The main portion of the castle was surrounded by high stone walls. In particular, the stone wall base for the Main Tower was built at the northeastern corner of the Main Enclosure and was 18.8m high. The Main Tower itself was 22.8m high, so 41.6m in total. The tower had 4 levels and 5 floors inside because they were no roofs between the fourth and fifth floors. Also, the existing roofs were very simple without any decorations except for the top. It is a method called Soto-siki (meaning multi-storied type). This method made the builders efficient and made the tower easier to protect. The defenders would actually look out over the surronding area and counterattack the enemies at any direction from the tower. In addition, the tower had one more feature called Nanban-zukuri (meaning Western Style) or Kara-zukuri (the Chinese Style). It refers to some of the levels or floors hanging out over the other levels of the tower. In the case of Kokura Castle, it was the top floor because its balcony and handrails were covered by black outer walls to prevent damage from bad weather and strong wind. This Kokura style would be later emulated by other castles like Tsuyama and Takamatsu Castles.

The restored image by CG of the main portion of Kokura Castle, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower
The miniature model of the original Main Tower of Kokura Castle, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower
The old photo of Tsuyama Castle including its Main Tower, in the early Meiji Period, taken by Kunitada Matsudaira (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The old photo of the Main Tower of Takamatsu Castle

Prosperity and Destruction of Ogasawara Clan

The castle and the domain were followed by Tadazame Ogasawara Ogasawara in 1632 after the Hosokawa Clan was transferred to Kumamoto Castle of the Kumamoto Domain. The Ogasawara Clan was a hereditary feudal lord family of the Tokugawa Shogunate, so it was expected to monitor non-hereditary feudal domains in the Kyushu Region. While the government of the Kokura Domain became stable, its castle town commercially prospered, especially around Tokiwa Bridge which connected the Western and Eastern Enclosures over the Murasaki River. The bridge was also the starting point of the Nagasaki Road where many passengers came and went between the main land and the region. the lords in the region and the Korean Envoys also used the road when they went to Edo.

The portrait of Tadazane Ogasawara, owned by Fukuju-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The diorama of the town around Tokiwa Bridge, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower
The current Tokiwa Bridge, it was restored using wooden materials
The figures of the Korean Envoys, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

Meanwhile, a bad sign for the castle occurred in 1837. The Main Tower was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire though it had survived through some lightning strikes. The tower was not rebuilt by the domain after that. Next, a severe event happened to the castle at the end of the Edo Period. The Choshu Domain at the edge of the mainland over the Kanmon Strait rebelled against the shogunate twice. The Second Conquest of Choshu was planned by the shogunate in 1866. The shogunate ordered the Kokura Domain and its allies to attack the Choshu through the Kokura Route, one of the four battlefields.

A Kawaraban newspaper called the scenes of the Battle of Kokura in Kyushu, exhibited by Cultural Heritage Online

The battles on the Kokura Route started in June. Against all odds, the Choshu troops landed on the Kokura area and counterattacked the shogunate side instead. Moreover, all the allies withdrew after they heard about the death of the shogun, Iemochi Tokugawa, by illness on the 20th of July. The Kokura troops, which were left alone, finally fired at the castle by themselves on the 1st of Aug and continued to fight against the Choshu like a guerrilla army. However, the fall of the castle and the Choshu capturing it became a symbol of the shogunate’s big failure in the battles which would accelerate its destruction and the Meiji Restoration by the New Government including the Choshu Domain.

The current Kokura Castle

To be continued in “Kokura Castle Part2”

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