192.Tsunomure Castle Part1

Local lords in Kusu area built their own castles using mesas or buttes which were the area’s natural features. Tsunomure Castle was one of these castles.

Location and History

One of Castles in Kusu area, important place in traffic

Tsunomure Castle was located in the Mori area of Kusu District, Bungo Province, which is the modern day Mori area of Kusu Town, Oita Prefecture. Kusu District and Kusu Town have been on the way between the eastern and western Northern Kyushu Region. For example, if you want to move from Oita City to Fukuoka or Saga Cities, you will pass Kusu Town either using car or public transportation. In addition, the district bordered on Buzen Province in the north, so the governor of Bungo Province, the Otomo Clan, which long owned the province during the Middle Ages, always focused on Kusu District to protect its territory.

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Tsunomure Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The range of Bungo Province and the location of the castle

The Kusu area also has the interesting natural feature of many mesas or buttes which originate from volcanic activity. They look like mountains or hills with steep slopes but have a plain area on the top, created by erosion. Kirikkabu (or Stump) Mountain in the area is typical among them. Local lords in the area built their own castles using these mesas or buttes during the Middle Ages. Tsunomure Castle was one of the castles, built on the Tsunomure Mountain by a local lord, the Mori Clan. Part of the name “mure” can be found in other mountains in the Kyushu Region, such as Togamure in Saiki City, Oita Prefecture. The word might derive from “mura” (or village) or “mori” (or forest), which indicates that the mountain and castle might have been used with local peoples’ daily life. They could cut down trees from the mountain for fuel and materials, or escape from their village to the castle when a battle happened.

The Stump Mountain (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)

Broadly speaking, the history of Tsunomure Castle can be divided into three periods. The first one was from the castle’s foundation to the end of the Otomo Clan’s rule at the end of the 16th Century. The clan’s government continued stably and the Kusu area was divided by many local lords which had their own castles made from mesas or buttes. The Otomo Clan didn’t rule their lands directly, so as long as they paid taxes to and served the clan, they were able to maintain their properties. Tsunomure Castle, governed by the Mori Clan, was built made of soil, by processing natural terrain into tier-wise enclosures, ditches, vertical cliffs, vertical moats, and so on. The mountain, where the castle was built, had been protective enough, which was surrounded by natural steep cliffs in all the directions except for the south. That’s why the defenders would gather the defensive items in the one direction. The castle actually became the only one which the Simazu Clan couldn’t capture when they invaded the Otomo Clan’s territory in 1586, therefore it was considered impregnable.

The diorama of Tsunomure Castle Ruins, exhibited by Bungo-Mori Domain Museum

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Tsunomue Castle
Leaflet|国土地理院
The relief map arond the castle

Takamasa Mori modernizes Castle

The second period started from 1593 when the Otomo Clan was fired by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the ruler of Japan. After that, Hideyoshi sent his retainers to the former Otomo’s territory to govern it directly. The Kusu area was assigned by Hideyoshi to Takamasa Mori (different from the previous Mori Clan and in Chinese letters for writing). Takamasa lived in and improved Tsunomure Castle by building high stone walls, defensive entrances called Koguchi, and buildings with roof tiles and stone foundations. These items are also seen in other local castles in Japan where Hideyoshi’s other retainers built or improved them, making the castles more defensive as well as showing their authority to people. In particular, the high stone walls of Tsunomure Castle in front of its Main Gate were piled in an advanced way called Ano-zumi, using natural stones and rubble. Takamasa’s government ended in a few years before he was transferred to the Saiki area, where he would build Saiki Castle, by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1601. This may be the reason why the improvement to Tsunomure Castle was only partially done.

The wooden statue of Takamasa Mori, from the signboard at Saiki City Historical Museum
The high stone walls of Tsunomure Castle, built in the Ano-zumi way
The ruins of Saiki Castle

Lord of Navy becomes that of Inland Domain

Nagachika Kurushima came to Tsunomure Castle in the same year instead of Takamasa. However, the Kurushima Clan must have felt uncomfortable moving to this inland area. This was because they had originally been one of the Murakami Navies which flourished in the Geiyo Islands of the Seto Inland Sea. The clan was located in Kurushima Island in front of the Kurushima Strait which is known as a rapid stream. They escorted ships which paid protection money, otherwise, they became pirates. They also join battles sometimes as a navy and one of the backed-up persons was the ruler Hideyoshi, which resulted in their sea territory being maintained. Nagachika was the lord of the clan at that time, who joined the West Alliance which was beaten in the decisive battle in 1600 by the East Squad (alliance) led by Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the shogunate. That was the reason for his transportation to the strange place, however, he may be lucky as many other lords joining the West Squad were killed or fired by the shogunate.

The portrait of Nagachika Kurushima, owned by Anrakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Kurushima Strait

His new territory was part of the Kusu District, called Mori, so the territory would be called the Mori Domain. It earned 14,000 koku of rice, which was considered as an independent lord, but was too small to have a castle. Therefore, he had to abandon Tsunomure Castle on the mountain and lived in the encampment at its southern foot instead. However, his clan managed to own and maintain the mountain part with no buildings but the former castle’s foundations, probably for cases of emergency like a battle. The clan also developed the castle town around the encampment and governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The ruins of Kurushima Clan’s encampment
The ruins of Samurai residences in the castle town

To be continued in “Tsunomure Castle Part2”

192.角牟礼城 その1

豊後国玖珠地域の国人領主たちは中世の間、この地域の特徴的な地形、メサやビュートを使ってそれぞれの城を築きました。角牟礼城は、それらの城の一つでした。

立地と歴史

交通の要衝、玖珠地域の城の一つ

角牟礼(つのむれ)城は、かつての豊後国玖珠(くす)郡の森地区、現在の大分県玖珠町の森地区にあった城です。玖珠郡及び玖珠町は、北九州地方の東西を結ぶ交通路の途上にあります。例えば、大分市から福岡市か佐賀市まで行こうとすると、車を使っても公共交通機関でも玖珠町を通ることになります。それに加えて、かつての玖珠郡は北方を豊前国に接していて、中世に長く豊後国を守護として支配してきた大友氏にとっては、領土を守るために常に玖珠郡に注意を払ってきました。

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角牟礼城
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
豊後国の範囲と城の位置

また、この玖珠地域には面白い自然の特徴があり、火山活動に由来するメサやビュートというものです。これらは急傾斜をもった山や丘のように見えるのですが、頂上部分は浸食により平らになっています。この地域にある切株山はそれらの中でも典型的な形をしています。地域の国人領主たちは中世の間、メサやビュートを使ってそれぞれの城を築きました。角牟礼城は、それらの城の一つであり、国人領主の森氏によって角埋(つのむれ)山の上に築かれました。この名前の一部「牟礼・埋(むれ)」は、同じ大分県の佐伯市の栂牟礼(とがむれ)のように、九州地方の他の山の名前にも見ることができます。この言葉は「村」や「森」に由来するとも言われ、このことはこの山や城が地元の人たちによっても日常的に使われていたことを示唆しています。すなわち、山から燃料や部材のために木を伐採したり、戦が起こったときには村から城に避難していたようなことが考えられます。

切株山  (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)

大まかに言って、角牟礼城の歴史は3つに分けられます。最初の時代は、城の創建から16世紀末に大友氏の支配が終わるまでの期間です。その当時、大友氏の支配は安定し、玖珠地域はメサやビュートを利用した城を持つ多くの国人領主たちによって分割されていました。大友氏は彼らの領地を直接統治することはせず、彼らが大友氏に所定の年貢を納め、奉仕を行っている限り、領土や財産を保全することができました。森氏によって治められた角牟礼城は土造りで、自然の地形を加工して、段状の曲輪群、堀切、切岸、縦堀などが作り出されたのです。城が築かれた山は南側を除く三方を自然の急崖に囲まれていて、それだけでも十分高い防御力を有していました。そのため、城の守備兵は防御設備を南側一方に集中させることができたのです。この城は実際に、1586年に島津氏が大友氏の領土に侵攻したときに唯一落とせなかった城となり、難攻不落の城と称されました。

角牟礼城跡のジオラマ、豊後森藩資料館にて展示

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角牟礼城
Leaflet|国土地理院
城周辺の起伏地図

毛利高政が城を近代化

二番目の時代は、天下人の豊臣秀吉により大友氏が改易となった1593年から始まりました。その後秀吉は、以前大友領だったところに直属の部下をを派遣し、直接統治することを始めたのです。玖珠地域には、秀吉によって領主として毛利高政が宛がわれました。高政は角牟礼城を居城とし、高石垣や虎口と呼ばれる防御力の高い出入口、そして瓦屋根や礎石をもった建物を築くことで改修を行いました。これらは、秀吉の他の部下たちが日本の他の地域で築いたり改修したりした城でも見ることができます。城を強化するとともに、人々に権威を見せつけたのです。特に、角牟礼城の大手門前の高石垣は、「穴太積み」と呼ばれる当時としては最新の方法によって自然石や粗く加工された石が積み上げられました。しかし高政の統治は数年で終わってしまい、1601年には徳川幕府によって、佐伯地域に転封となりました。彼はそこで佐伯城を築くことになります。このことは、角牟礼城の改修が部分的にしか行われなかった理由になるのかもしれません。

毛利高政木造、佐伯市歴史資料館の説明板より
角牟礼城の穴太積みの高石垣
佐伯城跡

水軍の棟梁が内陸の藩の領主に

来島長親(くるしまながちか)が同じ年に高政の代わりに角牟礼城にやってきました。しかし、来島氏はこの内陸の地に異動することにとても戸惑いを感じたはずです。どうしてかというと、来島氏はもともと瀬戸内海の芸予諸島で村上水軍の一族として繁栄していたからです。彼らは、急流で知られる来島海峡に面する来島を根拠地としていました。そして、通行料を支払った船を安全な航路に案内する一方、そうでない船にはいわゆる海賊行為を働いていました。また彼らは時には水軍となって戦いに加わっていて、その支援先の一つが天下人の秀吉でした。そのおかげで彼らの海域は安堵されたのです。長親はその当時の当主でしたが、1600年に起こった天下分け目の戦いでは西軍に加わり、徳川幕府の創始者となる徳川家康率いる東軍に敗れてしまいました。それが慣れない場所への転封の理由だったのです。しかしそれでも、他の多くの西軍に加わった武将が死罪となったり改易となる中、ラッキーだったのかもしれません。

来島長親肖像画、安楽寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
来島海峡

長親の新しい領地は、玖珠郡の一部、森地区でした。そのため森藩と呼ばれることになります。その石高は1万4千石で、独立大名としては認められても、城を持つことは許されませんでした。そのため、長親は山上の角牟礼城を廃城とせねばならず、その代わりに南麓に陣屋を構えてそこに住んでいました。しかし、彼の一族は山の部分を維持し続け、建物は撤去したもののその基礎部分は残していました。戦いが起こった場合に備えていたのでしょう。久留島氏(来島より改姓、読みは同じ)はまた、陣屋の周りに城下町を整備し、江戸時代末期まで藩を統治しました。

久留島氏の陣屋跡
城下町の武家屋敷跡

「角牟礼城その2」に続きます。

191.Nakatsu Castle Part1

Yoshitaka Kuroda, who built Nakatsu Castle, is known to many Japanese people as the military strategist of Hideyoshi Toyotomi. However, he was actually a working general and a secretary under Hideyoshi.

Location and History

Yoshitaka works hard for Unification of Japan with Hideyoshi Toyotomi

Nakatsu Castle was located in Buzen Province which is equivalent to the eastern part of Fukuoka Prefecture and the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture. The province was also the northernmost part of Kyushu Island which was connected with the Main Island of Japan through Kanmon Straits. The castle was built on a delta in the estuary of Nakatsu River flowing into Buzen Sea, in the central part of the province, by Yoshitaka Kuroda (he is more often known as Kanbe Kuroda or Josui Kuroda after he retired). He is known to many Japanese people as Gunshi or the military strategist of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the end of the 16th Century. However, the degree was given by later people like historians, critics, and novelists, he was actually a working general and a secretary under Hideyoshi.

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Nakatsu Province
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The range of Buzen Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Yoshitaka Kuroda, owned by Sofukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yoshitaka was originally a senior vassal of a local lord, the Kodera Clan in Harima Province (now the southern part of Hyogo Province). When Hideyoshi invaded the Chugoku Region, which included the province, as a general under Nobunaga Oda, Yoshitaka supported Hideyoshi by providing his own Himeji Castle to Hideyoshi. After that, he did his best to help complete the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi. A famous story about him in the early stage is that he was confined for about one and a half years in Arioka Castle when he visited to persuade Murashige Araki who had decided to be against Nobunaga. While Hideyoshi had become the ruler after Nobunaga was killed by Mitsuhide Akechi, Yoshitaka worked at Hideyoshi’s beck and call. For example, he negotiated with the Mori Clan in the Chugoku Region to divide territories into each other without battles. When the invasion of Kyushu happened in 1587, Yoshitaka set the stage for Hideyoshi’s arrival by fighting against local lords or making them surrender.

The remaining stone walls of Himeji Castle Yoshitaka built
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yoshitaka builds Castle in his territory in Bungo Province

After the invasion, Yoshitaka was given part of Buzen Province by Hideyoshi. His territory was small for his contribution so far, because, it has been said it was because Hideyoshi feared Yoshitaka’s potential power. However, some suggest that it could have been because Yoshitaka was a Christian which Hideyoshi had banned from spreading just after the invasion. Yoshitaka at first lived in Umagadake Castle, one of mountain castles which were common then, but launched the construction of Nakatsu Castle in 1588, which would be considered one of the Three Great Sea Castles in Japan, together with Imabari and Takamatsu Castles. Its location was decided by Yoshitaka for the convenience of the government and transportation, but probably also instructed by Hideyoshi. Hideyoshi’s other retainers also built sea castles in their new territories in the Kyushu Region during the same period, such as Kokura, Oita-Funai, and Yatsushiro Castles, which were used for the preparation for the invasion of Korea planned by Hideyoshi as well.

The remaining stone walls of Nakatsu Castle the Kuroda Clan built
Imabari Castle
Takamatsu Castle
The ruins of Yatsushiro Castle

Nakatsu Castle was also one of the earliest modernized castles with turrets and stone walls in the region. The Main Enclosure was in the center but along the estuary and had a gate directly to it, which is a rare case in Japanese castles. The Second Enclosure was in the front of the sea and the Third Enclosure was in the back. All of them were on the delta which looked like a folding fan. The number of the turrets was 22 at its peak, but the Main Tower was not built for some reason.

The old map of Nakatsu Castle, from the signboard at the site, there are the Second, Main, and Third Enclosures from above to the bottom

Did Yoshitaka want to be Ruler?

The highlight of Yoshitaka’s life came when the decisive battle happened in 1600 between the East Quad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Quad by Mitsunari Ishida after Hideyoshi died. Yoshitaka joined the East Squad with his son Nagamasa, who fought with Ieyasu against Mitsunari in the Battle of Sekigawara in central Japan. Yoshitaka himself stayed at Nakatsu Castle, and after he left, he captured castles in Kyushu, which other lords in the West Squad owned, one by one. The Battle of Sekigahara, where Ieyasu defeated Mitsunari, ended in only one day on the 15th of September. However, Yoshitaka continued to invade the region for about two more months until Ieyasu stopped him. Yoshitaka had already captured all the Kyushu Region with his allies except for the territory of the Shimazu Clan in southern Kyushu. This made people later speculate that Yoshitaka would have liked to be the ruler, but only he knew the answer. The Kuroda Clan was promoted to be the lord of much larger territory of Fukuoka Domain including Fukuoka Castle before Yoshitaka died in 1604.

The statues of Yoshitaka and his wife at the current Nakatsu Castle
The Portrait of Nagamasa Kuroda, the first lord of Fukuoka Domain, owned by Fukuoka City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Fukuoka Castle

Castle is followed by Nakatsu Domain which promotes learning Western sciences

Nakatsu Castle was followed by the Hosokawa Clan as their branch castle. The castle survived even after the Law of One Castle per Province, issued by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1615. It is said this was because Sansai Hosokawa, the father of the lord used it as his retreat. The castle was finally governed by the Okudaira Clan as the Nakatsu Domain until the end of the Edo Period. A remarkable event during the period was that the lords promoted learning about the Western sciences through Dutch language, called Rangaku. Japanese people were usually not allowed to learn them because trading the Western items and communicating with the Western people were strictly limited. Only the trading with Dutch at the Dejima trading house in Nagasaki and visiting Edo by the head of the house every four year were allowed. However, the third lord, Masashika Okudaira started to promote it after seeing his mother’s broken bones were mended by Western medicine. Ryotaku Maeno, who first translated a book of Western medicine with his colleagues such as Genpaku Sugita, was the domain’s doctor. Yukichi Fukuzawa, who was a great philosopher and educator in the Meiji Era, came from lower class samurais of the domain but started in life by learning Rangaku.

The portrait of Sansai Hosokawa, owned by Eisei Bunko Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masashika Okudaira, owned by Jishoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ryotaku Maeno, from the book “Ika-Sentetsu Partraits” in 1936 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Yukichi Fukuzawa, around 1891 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Nakatsu Castle Part2”

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