89.Saga Castle Part1

The Saga Domain contributed to the modernization of Japan.

Location and History

Nabeshima Clan develops Castle as Home Base

Saga Castle was located in what is now Saga City, the prefectural capital of Saga Prefecture. The castle was originally named Muranaka Castle and built by the Ryuzoji Clan which was a great power in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. However, the power of the clan decreased after it was defeated by the Shimazu Clan in the Battle of Okita-nawate in 1584. Instead, the Nabeshima Clan, a senior vassal of the Ryuzoji Clan, got the power and was finally assigned as the lord of the Saga Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Nabeshima Clan improved Muranaka Castle sometime in the early 17th Century, when it was renamed Saga Castle.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Naoshige Nabeshima, the founder of the Saga Domain, owned by Nabeshima Houkoukai  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The castle was built in the riverside area on the Saga Plain. The castle mainly consisted of the Main, Second and Third Enclosures, which were surrounded together by the large Outer Moat. The Main and Second Enclosures were connected directly in the southeastern part of the castle, separated from the Third Enclosure by the Inner Moat. Only the Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls, but others were surrounded by earthen walls. The Main Enclosure also consisted of the Main Tower, but its details are uncertain, as most of the castle buildings were burned down by a great fire in 1726. After that, the center of the castle was at the Main Hall on the Second Enclosure. However, it was burned down as well due to another significant fire in 1835.

The illustration of Saga Caste, from the signboard aft the site, adding my comments
The Main Enclosure including the Main Tower and Main Hall, featured in the illustration above

Naomasa Nabeshima modernizes Saga Domain

Much focus was on the Saga Domain and Saga Castle at the end of the Edo Period. The domain had been responsible for the police escort in Nagasaki which was the only official international port in Japan at that time. However, they failed and allowed a British ship, whose crew started a riot in the port in 1808, known as the Phaeton Incident. After that, the domain promoted its modernization led by the 10th lord, Naomasa Nabeshima. He governed the domain from the new Main Hall in the Main Enclosure, rebuilt in 1837. Under his leadership, the domain imported the latest cannons from the West and began to produce their own cannons themselves. Surprisingly, they were successful at it for the first time in Japan, which was before the arrival of Matthew Perry’s fleet from the U.S. in 1853. The Tokugawa Shogunate asked Naomasa to provide the domestic cannons for Shinagawa Batteries in Edo Bay which were prepared for the second arrival of Perry. The domain offered 50 cannons.

The statue of Naomasa Nabeshima at the ruins of Saga Castle
The restored Main Hall of the Main Enclosure
One of the replicas of the imported cannons at the ruins of Saga Castle
The ruins of Shinagawa batteries

Saga Domain was relied on due to their modern military power by both the Tokugawa Shogunate and the New Government during the Meiji Restoration. The domain chose to support the New Government, becoming one of the four powerful domains including the Satsuma, Choshu and Tosa. It is said that one reason that the New Government defeated the shogunate was the strong cannons the Saga Domain imported or made. Naomasa became one of the most important politicians at the beginning of the Meiji Era until he died in 1871. Naomasa also promoted his retainer, Shinpei Eto, to another important position in the government before he retired. Shinpei tried to bring the latest social systems from the West – such as education, justice and the idea of a parliamentary system – to Japan to help modernize the country. He has often been recognized as the father of the modern Japanese judicial system.

A picture drawing a battle between New Government Army and the shogunate  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Shinpei Eto, from a book called “Eto Nanpaku vol.1 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is burned during Saga Rebellion

However, lost power and authority to other politicians from Satsuma and Choshu in the political strife in 1873. He returned to Saga, asking for the launch of the parliament by democratic election to form a government. The government leader from Satsuma, Toshimichi Okubo, did not allow Shinpei’s agenda. It has been even said that he feared and envied Shinpei’s excellent abilities which might have overpowered him. Toshimichi intentionally spread the information as if Shinpei was planning to rebel against the government. He also sent his troops to Saga to force Shinpei along with his supporters to fight, known as the Saga Rebellion in 1874. Shinpei was defeated by the government, and subsequently put to death without judicial proceedings by Toshimichi, who ruled as a dictator. Saga Castle was one of the battle locations of the rebellion; unfortunately, most of the castle was burned down, again due to fire, during the battle.

The portrait of Toshimichi Okubo  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
 The Ukiyoe painting drawing the Saga Rebellion (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Saga Castle Part2”

89.佐賀城 その1

佐賀藩は日本の近代化に貢献しました。

立地と歴史

鍋島氏が佐賀藩の本拠地として整備

佐賀城は、現在佐賀県の県庁所在地である佐賀市にありました。この城はもとは村中城という名前で、戦国時代の16世紀に大きな力を持っていた龍造寺氏が築きました。ところが、1584年に沖田畷(おきたなわて)の戦いで島津氏に敗れてからはその力は衰えました。その代わりに龍造寺氏の重臣であった鍋島氏が力をつけ、ついには徳川幕府により佐賀藩主となったのです。鍋島氏は村中城を強化し、その城は17世紀初期のいずれかのときには佐賀城という名前に変わりました。

城の位置

佐賀藩初代藩主、鍋島直茂肖像画、鍋島報效会蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

この城は、佐賀平野に流れる川沿いに築かれました。この城には、主には本丸、二の丸、三の丸があり、全体が広大な外堀に囲まれていました。本丸と二の丸は、城の南東部分にあり、直接つながっており、内堀によって三の丸と隔てられていました。石垣に囲まれていたのは本丸のみであり、その他の曲輪は土塁によって囲まれていました。本丸には天守がありましたが、その詳細はわかっていません。ほとんどの城の建物が1726年の大火により焼けてしまったからです。その後、本丸にあった城の中心部は二の丸に移りました。ところが、これもまた1835年の大火により燃えてしまったのです。

「佐嘉小城 内絵図」、現地説明板に加筆
上記絵図の本丸部分を拡大、天守と御殿が描かれている

鍋島直正が藩を近代化

江戸時代末期になって、佐賀藩と佐賀城が注目される時が来ました。佐賀藩は、当時日本で唯一公に認められていた国際貿易港であった長崎の警護役の任に就いていました。ところが、1808年のフェートン号事件においてその役目を果たせず、長崎に侵入してきたイギリス船の船員の横暴を許してしまったのです。その後佐賀藩は、第10代藩主の鍋島直正の指導により近代化を進めました。彼は、1837年に再建された本丸の新しい御殿から藩を統治しました。彼のリーダーシップの下、佐賀藩は西洋から最新の大砲を輸入し、彼ら自身により大砲を製造することを始めました。そして驚くべきことに、1853年にペリー艦隊が来航する前に、日本で初めてその大砲の製造に成功したのです。徳川幕府は直正に対し、ペリーの2回目の来航に備えて江戸湾に築造した品川台場のために、その製造した大砲を提供するよう依頼しました。そして50基の大砲が供給されたのです。

佐賀城跡にある鍋島直正の銅像
復元された本丸御殿
佐賀城跡にある輸入大砲の複製品
品川台場跡

佐賀藩は、近代的な軍事力を持っているがために、明治維新のとき、徳川幕府と新政府の両方から当てにされました。そしてついには新政府に味方することにし、薩摩、長州、土佐とともに、四大雄藩の一つとなりました。新政府が幕府を倒すことができた一つの理由は、佐賀藩が輸入したか製造した強力な大砲にあると言われています。直正は1871年に亡くなるまで、明治時代初期における最も重要な政治家の一人であったのです。直正はまた、引退する前に政府の重要ポジションに、部下の江藤新平を登用していました。新平は、教育、司法、議会制の考え方など、西洋の最新の社会システムを日本に導入し、国の近代化に資するよう努めました。彼は、しばしば近代日本司法制度の父とされています。

新政府軍の戦いの様子を描いた絵画 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
江藤新平肖像、「江藤南白 上」より (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

佐賀の乱により城が焼亡

ところが、明治六年政変(1873年、征韓論政変とも言われています)が起こり、薩摩や長州の他の政治家たちによりその地位を奪われてしまいます。新平は、民主的選挙による議会開設を政府に要求し、佐賀に戻りました。薩摩出身で政府を主導していた大久保利通は新平の要求を認めませんでした。利通は、新平の卓越した能力に嫉妬し、それが利通を凌駕してしまうことを恐れていたとさえ言われています。利通は、新平が政府に対して反乱を企てているとの情報を流しました。また、佐賀に軍隊を派遣し、新平とその支持者たちが戦わなければならないよう仕向けました。1874年の佐賀の乱はこのようにして起こったのです。新平は政府軍に敗北し、今や独裁者と化した利通により、司法手続きなしに死に追いやられました。佐賀城はこの戦いの戦場の一つとなり、残念ながらその戦いの最中、火災によりほとんどが焼け落ちてしまいました。

大久保利通肖像 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
佐賀の乱の様子を描いた浮世絵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「佐賀城その2」に続きます。

91.Shimabara Castle Part3

The castle reclaimed its appearance.

Features

Second Enclosure and Inner Moat

Consider walking to the Second Enclosure. You can go down and up the stairs from the Main Enclosure to the Second Enclosure over the dry Inner Moat. There was the roofed Passage Bridge connecting both enclosures in the past, which was the only entrance to the Main Enclosure. If you look back to the Main enclosure from somewhere around the Inner Moat, you can find the stone walls are arranged elaborately to protect the castle. The Second Enclosure is now used as the Shimabara Cultural Hall.

Going to the Second Enclosure
The former entrance of the Main Enclosure
Looking up the Main Enclosure from the bottom of the Inner Moat

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Shimabara Castle was abandoned and all the its buildings were demolished. The Main Enclosure once became fields and the Third Enclosure was used for schools. In 1957, the castle ruins were turned into Shimabara Castle Park. The Main Tower and the turrets were rebuilt between 1960 and 1980. The park became the new Shimabara Castle again. Shimabara City has been developing the castle as a tourist center of the city.

The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The rebuilt Ushitora Turret
The rebuilt Western Turret

My Impression

When I visited Shimabara Castle, I felt both the strength of the castle and its historical atmosphere. I recommend walking in and out of the remaining stone walls to understand how wisely they were built. Shimabara City has been damaged by natural disasters such as the Mt. Unzen eruption in 1991, yet it has also received gifts from of nature such as hot springs. The city is known as a city of water. You can enjoy visiting the castle as well as food and drinks made with water.

The great and heavy stone walls of Shimabara Castle
Looking the Inner Moat from the Main Enclosure
You can glance at Mt. Unzen behind Mt. Mayuyama

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is about 60 minutes away from Isahaya IC on the Nagasaki Expressway.
You can park in at the parking lots for visitors in the castle.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from Shimabara Station on the Shimabara Railway.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend going to Nagasaki Airport by plane. After that, you can take the shuttle bus to Isahaya Station and transfer to the Shimabara Railway

That’s all. Thank you.
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