You can enjoy both of real buildings and stone walls.
Features
Main Compound and Main Tower on it
The highlight of the castle is the Main Compound including the Main Tower in the back of the Main Enclosure. It looks so great as it was by mixing the remaining and restored buildings.
The map around the Main Compound
To reach the tower, you need to pass the zigzagging inner route again through the remaining First, Second and Third Gates. There are also remaining mud walls with loop holes on the way. You can see other visitors though the holes.
Then, you will eventually arrive at the inner court of the Main Tower. Its style is called the Tower Grouping, so the court is surrounded by the Large and Small Towers and other turrets. Enemies would be destroyed if they could pass through that complex route earlier on.
Visitors today first enter the Cellar, basement of the Large Tower, and walk around the other buildings like a corridor, seeing the exhibitions about the castle. In fact, the buildings there except for the Large Tower were all restored after the arson in 1933. They were built the same as the original one, so you may think they were not restored.
After walking around, you will eventually enter the remaining Large Tower again. You can climb up the steep wooden steps to the top third floor. The floor is open and you can enjoy an even more great view there.
Great Stone Walls
If you have time. I recommend seeing the back side of the Main Enclosure, as there are also several remaining or restored buildings. For example, Nohara Turret is said to be one of the oldest buildings in the castle, which is the only remaining example of a two-tier Lookout Tower style turret.
The map around the Main Enclosure
If you also get out of the restored Inui-mon or Northwest Gate, which is the back gate, and go back to the Main Gate Ruins, you can see the long, great, high stone walls of the Main Enclosure along the way. They look very beautiful having vertical curves like a folding fan and horizontal lines like a folding screen. However, they were originally built to attack enemies efficiently.
Finally, I recommend you using the Kencho-ura Route when you return to the foot, because the route is well developed and you can see the remaining Southern Climbing Stone Walls close by. Though the Northern Climbing Stone Walls were unfortunately mostly destroyed, the southern stone walls were still intact, which is over 230m long covering the slope. It is said to have the best condition among the other remaining climbing stone walls such as in Sumoto, Hikone and Yonago Castles.
My Impression
Matsuyama Castle has become one of the most famous symbols of Matsuyama City. If you walk around the city area, you can see the castle buildings on the mountain from almost anywhere. In addition, if you visit and see them, you can still find and re-experience how to build and use the castle like people in the past used to do. This is because the city made great efforts not only for maintaining the original items but also for restoring many buildings like the original ones. I learned a lot from the castle and recommend you visiting and seeing it.
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car, it is about 30 minutes from Matsuyama IC on the Matsuyama Expressway. There is a parking lot in the park. By public transportation, you can take the city tram bound for Dogo-Onsen from JR Matsuyama Station or Matsuyama-shi Station on the Iyo Railway and get off at the Okaido stop. It takes about 5 minutes on foot from the stop to get to the park. From Tokyo or Osaka to Matsuyama City: I recommend traveling by plane and you can take the bus or rent a car to get there.
Many clans developed Ozu Castle and the area around.
Location and History
Utsunomiya Clan first builds Castle
Ozu Castle was located in the southern part of Iyo Province on Shikoku Island, which is now Ozu City in Ehime Prefecture. The castle was first built on a hill called Jizogadake by the Utsunomiya Clan in the 14th Century. This location was near the intersection of Ozu-Uwajima Road and Hijikawa River, an important point for transportation. The Utsunomiya Clan eventually became one of the local warlords in the province during the Sengoku Period in the late 15th to the 16th Century.
The range of Iyo Province and the location of the castle
Takatora Todo modernizes Castle
After Hideyoshi Toyotomi achieved his unification of Japan, Takatora Todo, who worked under Hideyoshi owned Ozu Castle in 1595. He was based in Uwajima Castle, but he modernized both Ozu and Uwajima Castles. The details of improved Ozu Castle by Takatora are uncertain, because the ruins of it are under the current Ozu Castle. However, it is thought that the basic structure of the castle was completed by him. The Main Enclosure was on the hill beside Hijikawa River flowing from the east to the north of the castle. The Second Enclosure was below the hill on the opposite side of the river. Both enclosures were surrounded by the Inner Mort in the south and west. The Third Enclosure and the Outer Moat were also outside of them. The water of the moats was from the river, so the castle is also called a River Castle.
Yasuharu Wakizaka builds Main Tower?
In 1609, Yasuharu Wakizaka, was transferred from Sumoto Castle to Ozu Castle as the founder of the Ozu Domain. It is said that he built the four leveled Main Tower in the Main Enclosure. Some historians also speculate that he might have moved the Main Tower of Sumoto Castle to Ozu. This is because the sizes of the stone wall bases for both castles are almost the same, according to the recent research. The two two-story turrets called Daidokoro-Yagura and Koran-Yagura were built at both sides of the Main Tower, connected by the Passage Turrets. Many other turrets were also built in the important positions of each enclosure.
Kato Clan maintains Castle
In 1617, the Kato Clan was transferred from Yonago Castle to Ozu Castle, which governed the castle and the Ozu Domain over 13 generations until the end of the Edo Period. The domain didn’t have a large territory (60 thousand rice of koku) which meant they were not rich. However, it promoted industries such as Tobe pottery, Japanese papers and Japan wax. It also founded the domain school called Meirinkan to educate warriors. At the end of the Edo Period, one of the warriors, Ayasaburo Takeda learned the Western military science after graduation. He lastly built the first Western style castle called Goryokaku in Hakodate, Hokkaido Island, he also worked as the instructor of the Tokugawa Shogunate.
As for Ozu Castle, the Second Enclosure became the center of the castle in the peaceful time, having the Main Hall, warehouses surrounded by the Main Gate and some turrets.
この城には2つの天守が並び立っていました。
Two main towers stood in a row at the castle.
立地と歴史~Location and History
海に面した城~A castle facing the sea
米子市は、中国地方の鳥取県西部にあり、ゆったりした雰囲気を感じる所です。戦国時代には中国地方のほとんどを毛利氏が支配していました。その一族である吉川広家は、天下人の豊臣秀吉に海の近くに新しい城を築くよう命じられ、それは1592年の秀吉の朝鮮侵攻の補給基地の役割がありました。この辺りは朝鮮に近かったからです。それが米子城でした。 Yonago City has a relaxed atmosphere, located in the western part of Tottori Prefecture, Chugoku Region. In the “Sengoku”, or Warring States Period, the Mori clan governed most of this region. Its relative Hiroie Kikkawa was ordered to build a new castle near the sea by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi as a supply base for Hideyoshi’s invasion of Korea in 1592. Because the area is close to Korea. That was Yonago Castle.
城の位置~The location of the castle
この城は、湊山と呼ばれる90mの高さの山の上に築かれました。城の背後はちょうど中海に面しており、港として使われていました。初期の城に関する詳細は不明なのですが、頂上には4階の天守がありました。 The castle was built on a 90 m mountain called Minato-yama. The back of the castle just faced Nakaumi Lake, and was used as a port. The details regardomg the first castle are uncertain, but there was a four-story main tower or Tenshu on the top.
城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo of around the castle
2つの天守が並ぶ~Two Main towers stands
徳川幕府が設立された後は、1600年に米子城と米子藩の領主として、中村一忠が配置されました。一忠は城と城下町の拡張を続け、完成させました。彼はまた、新しく元あった天守より大きな5階の天守を築きました。その当時、大きな天守を築くことが大名たちの間でブームとなっていました。民衆に権威を示すためです。既に古い天守があった場合には、大抵は置き換えられました。 After the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, they placed Kazutada Nakamura as the lord of Yonago Castle and the Yonago feudal Domain in 1600. He continued to improve and complete the castle along with the castle town. He also built a new five-story Tenshu that was larger than the old one. At that time, building large Tenshu was a boom for lords, as they tried to show their authority to people. If there was already an old Tenshu, it was often replaced with the new one.
しかし、米子城の場合は、元あった4階の天守は残され、単に名前が副天守または四階櫓と変えられただけでした。つまりそれ以来、2つの天守が並び立っていたのです。何と勇壮な姿だったことでしょう。 However, in the case of Yonago Castle, the old four-story Tenshu remained and was just renamed the Sub Main Tower or the Four-Story Turret. That meant two Tenshu were standing in a row since then. They must have looked so great!
鳥取藩の所有となる~Tottori feudal Domain owns
1609年、一忠は若くして亡くなり、彼には後継ぎとなる子どもがいなかったため、改易となってしまいました。最終的には米子は池田氏による鳥取藩に属することになります。池田氏は一時、当時の本拠地である鳥取城から、米子城に移り、ここを新本拠地にすることを検討しました。それだけ米子城が魅力的だったのですが、結局は中止になりました。結果、鳥取藩の家老である荒尾氏が米子城とその城下町を江戸時代いっぱい統治しました。 In 1609, Kazutada died young, then his clan was disbanded because he didn’t have children or successors. Lastly the Yonago area belonged to the Tottori feudal Domain owned by the Ikeda clan. The clan once considered Yonago Castle as their new home base by moving from their current home base, Tottori Castle. Yonago Castle was attractive to them, but the plan was canceled. Finally, the Arao clan, chief retainer of Tottori Domain governed Yonago Castle and the castle town until the end of the Edo Period.
特徴~Features
城周辺の地図~The map aroud the castle
頂上へ上る~Climbing up to the top
現在、米子城の城跡は湊山公園として残っています。基礎の上に石垣がありますが、現存する建物はありません。城を訪れる人は通常は城の正門であった大手門跡から頂上の方に上っていきます。他にもいくつか登り口があります。 Now, the ruins of Yonago Castle remain as Minato-yama Park. There are stone walls on their foundation, but with no remaining buildings. Visitors can usually climb up to the top from the ruins of the Main Gate or Ote-mon which was the front entrance of the castle. There are also several trails to climb.
山はそれ程高くありませんので、15分か20分くらいあれば頂にある城の中心地に到達できます。 The mountain is not so high, so you can reach the center of the castle at the peak in around 15 to 20 minutes.
2つの天守台~The two stone wall bases for Tenshu
そこには2つの天守のための天守台石垣があります。新しい天守用の方は古い石を使い、三段積みの形式となっています。 There are stone wall bases for two Tenshu. The one for the new Tenshu has a three-layer style using older stones.
一方、古い天守(副天守)用には新しい石を使い、一層積みとなっています。これは、江戸時代後期に古い天守が大改装されたからです。この時、天守台が置き換えられたと言います。 On the other hand, the one for the old Tenshu (Sub Main Tower) has a single-layer style using newer stones. This is because the old Tenshu was renovated in the late Edo Period. It is said its base was replaced then.
本丸とその他の曲輪~Main and other enclosures
鉄門と呼ばれる正門跡を通り過ぎると、本丸に入っていきます。 Going through the front gate ruins called Kurogane-mon, you will enter the Main enclosure or “Honmaru”.
この曲輪からは、城を囲む市街地、海そして山の素晴らしい景色を堪能できます。但し、周りに柵がありませんので、足元お気を付けてください。 From the enclosure, you can get a great view of the surrounding area such as the city, the sea and mountains, but watch your steps, because there are no fences.
本丸には水手門という裏門もあり、かつては港につながっていました。 Honmaru also has the back gate ruins called Mizunote-mon which led to the port in the past.
城には、他にも山麓に二の丸があり、内膳丸というのもありました。内膳丸は山の中腹なり、見張りや連絡のために使われました。最近の発掘調査により、かつてはこの曲輪から本丸にまっすぐ通じる石垣でできた通路があり、登り石垣と呼ばれました。歴史家は、朝鮮侵攻のときに日本軍が似たような仕組みを作ったことから、これは吉川氏がその時の経験を基に作ったのではないかと考えています。 The castle had other enclosures like the Second enclosure or “Ninomaru” on the foot and “Naizen-maru” enclosure. Naizen-maru is on the midslope and was used for observation and connection. A recent excavation found that this was the direct route made with stone walls called Nobori-Ishigaki from this enclosure to Honmaru in the past. Historians say it might have been built by Kikkawa from the experience of the invasion of Korea where Japanese warriors built similar systems.
その後~Later History
明治維新後、米子城は廃城となり、元藩士に無償で譲渡されました。しかしながら、城をそのまま維持するは大変困難でした。すべての城の建物は、廃材として売られていきました。1933年、米子市が城跡を取得し、しばらくして湊山公園として整備しました。2006年に城跡は国の史跡に指定されました。それ以来、発掘調査が進められています。 After the Meiji Restoration, Yonago Castle was abolished and assigned to former warriors for free. However, it was too difficult for them to keep the castle as it had been. They had to sell all of the buildings in the castle as waste materials. In 1933, Yonago City owned the castle ruins, then developed them as Minato-yama Park after a whole. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2006. Since then, excavation and investigations have been ongoing.
私の感想~My Impression
もし藩士たちが少しでも城の建物を残していてくれたらと思います。そうであったなら現在の松江城のようになっていたでしょう。どちらにしろ米子城跡に訪れる価値はあります。とてもゆったりできますし、観光客も市民も歴史を学ぶ場になります。 I wish the warriors could have kept some of the castle buildings so I could see them today like Matsue Castle. In any case, the ruins of Yonago Castle are still attractive. Visiting the ruins can be relaxing, an exercise and an opportunity to learn history for tourists and citizens.
ここに行くには~How to get There
車で行く場合:山陰自動車道米子西ICから約4kmです。公園に駐車場があります。 電車では、JR米子駅から歩いて約20分です。 米子空港から米子駅まで:米子空港駅から境線に乗るか、空港連絡バスに乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car: It is about 4 km from the Yonago-Nishi IC on San-in Expressway. The park offers a parking lot. By train, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from JR Yonago station. From Yonago Airport to Yonago station :Take the Sakai line from Yonago-Kuko station, or take the connecting bus for Yonago station.
リンク、参考情報~Links and References
・国史跡 米子城跡(Yonago City Official Website) ・「歴史群像150号、戦国の城/伯耆米子城」学研(Japanese Magazine) ・「よみがえる日本の城6」学研(Japanese Book)