English – ページ 130 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

149.Komakiyama Castle Part1

The castle had a very short life but rich history.

Location and History

Nobunaga’s Foothold

Komakiyama Castle was located on an 86m high mountain called Komakiyama, on Nobi Plain in Owari Province, what is now the western part of Aichi Prefecture. The mountain had no castle until Nobunaga Oda built a castle on it in 1563. The reason for it was that he wanted to move his home base from Kiyosu Castle in now Nagoya City to this castle. He aimed to capture Inabayama Castle, what is now Gifu City, which the Saito Clan owned at that time. Komakiyama was much closer to Inabayama than Kiyosu. However, it was very rare for warlords and their retainers to move their home to another. They always continued to live in places where their ancestors had been.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Three Distinct Features

Komakiyama Castle by Nobunaga had three distinct features. First, the Main Enclosure or Honmaru on the top was surrounded by stone walls made using huge stones. Some of the stones were carried from another mountain. At that time, building stone walls for castles was rare, and there was likely no other case like Komakiyama. It was one of the earliest examples of using stone walls as a show of authority.

The remaining stone walls on the mountain

Secondly, the castle had two residences for the lord, one was on the mountain, the other was at the foot. Other warlords who had a mountain castle also often had two residences. They usually lived in the one on the foot and used the one on the mountain when a battle happened. However, in the case of Nobunaga, he seemed to live in his residence on the mountain. He might have considered the mountain as a special place. Another similar example can be seen in Gifu Castle, his next home base.

Lastly, the Main Route went straight from the foot to the mid-slope of the mountain like Azuchi Castle, his last home base. It was abnormal for other warlords to have such a route on the mountain, because it was not defensive. The reason is still unsure, but it must have depended on Nobunaga’s idea. In addition, its castle town was built in an advanced way in an area where nothing existed prior. The town was divided orderly to accommodate warriors, merchants, and craftsmen separately. Such a way to develop castle town is commonly seen in those in the next century.

The miniature model of the castle town distribution at the site

Ieyasu’s Stronghold

The life of the castle by Nobunaga was just four years, as he was successful in capturing Inabayama Castle in 1567. He moved his home base again to Inabayama castle and renamed it Gifu Castle. Komakiyama Castle was abandoned right away. In 1584, the castle was reused by Ieyasu Tokugawa when he fought with the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute. Ieyasu reinforced earthen walls and dry moats surrounding the castle to establish a stronghold there against Hideyoshi at Inuyama Castle. This battle resulted in a dead heat and Ieyasu showed his great presence towards the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate later.

*The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

To be continued in “Komakiyama Castle Part2”

39.Gifu Castle Part3

A popular spot for tourism and history

Later History

After the battle in 1600, Gifu Castle was abandoned, instead, Tokugawa Shogunate built Kano Castle in a nearby plain area. In 1910, the first imitation Main Tower was built by the local people. The present Main Tower is the second generation which was built in 1956. Both of them are seen as important symbols of city and have been contributing to the increase in tourism. As the excavations and studies improve in recent years, the area around Mt. Kinkazan is focused on as a historic spot. As a result, it has been a National Historic Site as the ruins of Gifu Castle since 2011.

My Impression

I actually thought that the Gifu Castle was just on the top of mountain, until recently. After I visited and learned more about the castle, I found that it offered many perspectives. Especially, Nobunaga Oda received and improved it on his own way. He used the potential abilities of the castle to increase his authority. I think that something new about the castle will be discovered again soon to surprise us.

The replica of the wooden statue of Nobunaga Oda (Gifu Castle Museum)

The ruins of Nobunaga’s residence on the foot of the mountain

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 6 km away from Kagamigahara IC on Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway.
The Gifu Park offers a parking lot.
By public transportation, take the Gifu Bus from the No.12 or 13 bus stops at JR Gifu Station, and get off at the Gifu-Koen-Rekishi-Hakubutsukan-Mae bus stop.
To get JR Gifu Station from Tokyo: Get the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, and transfer to Tokaido Local Line at Nagoya Station.

Links and References

・Gifu Castle castle tower, Gifu city official web site

That’s all.
Back to “Gifu Castle Part1”
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39.Gifu Castle Part2

Please pay attention to both the top and foot of the mountain.

Features

The map around the castle

To Castle Ruins on Top

Now, the area around Mt. Kinkazan has become one of the most popular tourist spots in the Gifu Prefecture. You can easily go to the top of the mountain by the Kinkazan Ropeway. If you want to climb up there, it is common to use the Nanamagari Trail which was the Main Route for the castle. The tail is relatively gently sloped, so it takes around one hour to reach the top, climbing to about 300m from the ground.

A view of the Main Tower from the city area

The top is actually also a tourist spot where the ropeway terminal, a restaurant, a zoo, and the imitation Main Tower stand. The routes around the top have also been paved in a modern style. However, you can see rocky surfaces made of chert everywhere on the top. As for the ruins of the castle, there are the ruins of the First Gate where the huge stones for the gate collapsed. After seeing the defensive trenches called “Horikiri”, next comes the ruins of the Second Gate. Their plaster walls have been rebuilt recently, but some of the stone walls are original. You should check out the two steps of stone walls under the route from the Second Gate to the Main Tower. The method for building the stone walls is very old, so it is thought that they were built by Nobunaga.

The defensive trenches called “Horikiri”

The stone walls under the route to the Main Tower

A Great View from Main Tower

The imitation Main Tower was built in 1956, based on the drawings of the Three-Story Turret in Kano Castle. The turret was burned in the Edo Period, but there was a rumor that it might have been moved from the Gifu Castle. The interior of the tower is used as a museum which exhibits the history of the castle and Nobunaga. The top floor is also a sightseeing tower where you can see a great view of the area around, including Nagara-gawa River. The stone wall base of the tower looks very old. In fact, the stones are original, but the style is not, as the stones were re-piled when the tower was rebuilt.

A view from the Main Tower (Nagaragawa River side)

*A view from the Main Tower (Mountain side)*

You can also climb down on another tail, for example, from the ruins of the Back Gate. The gate also used huge stones of which you can see the remains on the route. After going down for a while, you can also see the huge, holy rock called “Eboshi-iwa”. The Inaba Shrine was originally located around the rock.

You can see rocky surfaces made of chert here and there

Ruins of Nobunaga’s Residence

At the foot of the mountain, I recommend that you visit the ruins of Nobunaga’s palace residence, because, in fact, it might have been the center of the castle. At the entrance, you can see the remains of the alternate huge stones which were 1.7m high in the past. Walking up the stairs around the terraced stone walls, there is an empty spacious space where the main building was constructed. In the back of it, there were also buildings for the tearoom and sightseeing with an artificial water garden using huge stones. Another pond garden was next to it, and an artificial river flew from the fountain between them. Moreover, these gardens were connected to the main building by the air corridors. Nobunaga seemed to use his palace residence for official ceremonies and for hosting important visitors.

The stairs to the ruins of the main building

The imaginary drawing of around the gardens *(Gifu Castle Museum)*

The imaginary drawing of the residence (from the signboard at the site)

To be continued in “Gifu Castle Part3”
Back to “Gifu Castle Part1”