192.Tsunomure Castle Part2

The path to the top becomes zigzagging and the highlight of the castle, the great Ano-zumi high stone walls appear soon.

Features

Third Enclosure as Parking lot

Today, the ruins of Tsunomure Castle have been developed by Kusu Town since they were designated as a National Historic Site in 2005. If you drive to the ruins, you can go from the foot of the mountain to the Third Enclosure at the middle of the slope through the paved forest road. However, please be careful when passing each other as the road is narrow. The Third Enclosure has become a parking lot which is still surrounded by stone walls. You can also see some collapsed stones lying around the enclosure. Some historians speculate that they came from the Climbing Stone Walls which the builder, Takamasa Mori might have brought and built from his experience of the invasion of Korea.

The map around the castle

The entrance of the forest road
The Third Enclosure became a parking lot
Some of the lying stones around the enclosure

Great Ano-zumi High Stone Walls

You will walk from the Third Enclosure to the center of the ruins above. You will also see some Vertical Moats made of soil on the slopes to prevent enemies from moving freely, which had been built before Takamasa came. That’s why the final version of the castle was mixed with the older and newer items. The path to the top becomes zigzagging and the highlight of the castle, the great Ano-zumi high stone walls appear soon. These stone walls made of natural stones and rubble, which remain for about 100m long by over 7m high, may look rough but were actually piled elaborately. You can feel the unique techniques of the past stone guild.

The vertical dry moats
Climbing the zigzagging path
The high stone walls
The stone walls, built in the Ano-zumi way, look so great

Going to Second Enclosure after passing Main Gate Ruins

You will next pass the Main Gate Ruins beside the current path, which had the defensive Koguchi entrance and its turret gate. The gate was also the entrance of the Well Enclosure, a lifeline of the castle. In fact, the gate was once called “the Back Gate” by local people and historians according to traditions, however, it is now considered “the Main Gate” as the studies about the castle improve. Please make sure that some of the official pamphlets and signboards still say it is the Back Gate. In that case, you need to understand it is actually the Main Gate.

The ruins of the Main Gate
A signboard still says it is the Back Gate Ruins, inside the red circle in Japanese

You will eventually walk up to the Second Enclosure, which is also surrounded by stone walls. The excavation team found stone foundations for some buildings in the enclosure. The enclosure also had the Western Gate Ruins, which had a gate with roof tiles and entrance, similar to the Main Gate. In addition, the gate was once called “the Main Gate”. Overall, the area above the Ano-zumi stone walls below the second enclosure was certainly modernized by Takamasa Mori.

Going to the Second Enclosure
The stone walls of the Second Enclosure
The inside of the Second Enclosure
The ruins of the Western Gate

To be continued in “Tsunomure Castle Part3”
Back to “Tsunomure Castle Part1”

192.Tsunomure Castle Part1

Local lords in Kusu area built their own castles using mesas or buttes which were the area’s natural features. Tsunomure Castle was one of these castles.

Location and History

One of Castles in Kusu area, important place in traffic

Tsunomure Castle was located in the Mori area of Kusu District, Bungo Province, which is the modern day Mori area of Kusu Town, Oita Prefecture. Kusu District and Kusu Town have been on the way between the eastern and western Northern Kyushu Region. For example, if you want to move from Oita City to Fukuoka or Saga Cities, you will pass Kusu Town either using car or public transportation. In addition, the district bordered on Buzen Province in the north, so the governor of Bungo Province, the Otomo Clan, which long owned the province during the Middle Ages, always focused on Kusu District to protect its territory.

The range of Bungo Province and the location of the castle

The Kusu area also has the interesting natural feature of many mesas or buttes which originate from volcanic activity. They look like mountains or hills with steep slopes but have a plain area on the top, created by erosion. Kirikkabu (or Stump) Mountain in the area is typical among them. Local lords in the area built their own castles using these mesas or buttes during the Middle Ages. Tsunomure Castle was one of the castles, built on the Tsunomure Mountain by a local lord, the Mori Clan. Part of the name “mure” can be found in other mountains in the Kyushu Region, such as Togamure in Saiki City, Oita Prefecture. The word might derive from “mura” (or village) or “mori” (or forest), which indicates that the mountain and castle might have been used with local peoples’ daily life. They could cut down trees from the mountain for fuel and materials, or escape from their village to the castle when a battle happened.

The Stump Mountain (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)

Broadly speaking, the history of Tsunomure Castle can be divided into three periods. The first one was from the castle’s foundation to the end of the Otomo Clan’s rule at the end of the 16th Century. The clan’s government continued stably and the Kusu area was divided by many local lords which had their own castles made from mesas or buttes. The Otomo Clan didn’t rule their lands directly, so as long as they paid taxes to and served the clan, they were able to maintain their properties. Tsunomure Castle, governed by the Mori Clan, was built made of soil, by processing natural terrain into tier-wise enclosures, ditches, vertical cliffs, vertical moats, and so on. The mountain, where the castle was built, had been protective enough, which was surrounded by natural steep cliffs in all the directions except for the south. That’s why the defenders would gather the defensive items in the one direction. The castle actually became the only one which the Simazu Clan couldn’t capture when they invaded the Otomo Clan’s territory in 1586, therefore it was considered impregnable.

The diorama of Tsunomure Castle Ruins, exhibited by Bungo-Mori Domain Museum

The relief map arond the castle

Takamasa Mori modernizes Castle

The second period started from 1593 when the Otomo Clan was fired by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the ruler of Japan. After that, Hideyoshi sent his retainers to the former Otomo’s territory to govern it directly. The Kusu area was assigned by Hideyoshi to Takamasa Mori (different from the previous Mori Clan and in Chinese letters for writing). Takamasa lived in and improved Tsunomure Castle by building high stone walls, defensive entrances called Koguchi, and buildings with roof tiles and stone foundations. These items are also seen in other local castles in Japan where Hideyoshi’s other retainers built or improved them, making the castles more defensive as well as showing their authority to people. In particular, the high stone walls of Tsunomure Castle in front of its Main Gate were piled in an advanced way called Ano-zumi, using natural stones and rubble. Takamasa’s government ended in a few years before he was transferred to the Saiki area, where he would build Saiki Castle, by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1601. This may be the reason why the improvement to Tsunomure Castle was only partially done.

The wooden statue of Takamasa Mori, from the signboard at Saiki City Historical Museum
The high stone walls of Tsunomure Castle, built in the Ano-zumi way
The ruins of Saiki Castle

Lord of Navy becomes that of Inland Domain

Nagachika Kurushima came to Tsunomure Castle in the same year instead of Takamasa. However, the Kurushima Clan must have felt uncomfortable moving to this inland area. This was because they had originally been one of the Murakami Navies which flourished in the Geiyo Islands of the Seto Inland Sea. The clan was located in Kurushima Island in front of the Kurushima Strait which is known as a rapid stream. They escorted ships which paid protection money, otherwise, they became pirates. They also join battles sometimes as a navy and one of the backed-up persons was the ruler Hideyoshi, which resulted in their sea territory being maintained. Nagachika was the lord of the clan at that time, who joined the West Alliance which was beaten in the decisive battle in 1600 by the East Squad (alliance) led by Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the shogunate. That was the reason for his transportation to the strange place, however, he may be lucky as many other lords joining the West Squad were killed or fired by the shogunate.

The portrait of Nagachika Kurushima, owned by Anrakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Kurushima Strait

His new territory was part of the Kusu District, called Mori, so the territory would be called the Mori Domain. It earned 14,000 koku of rice, which was considered as an independent lord, but was too small to have a castle. Therefore, he had to abandon Tsunomure Castle on the mountain and lived in the encampment at its southern foot instead. However, his clan managed to own and maintain the mountain part with no buildings but the former castle’s foundations, probably for cases of emergency like a battle. The clan also developed the castle town around the encampment and governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The ruins of Kurushima Clan’s encampment
The ruins of Samurai residences in the castle town

To be continued in “Tsunomure Castle Part2”

191.Nakatsu Castle Part3

Nakatsu City planned to replace old stones with new ones to re-pile the walls because it didn’t think the stones were original. The construction was just on the point of starting.

Features

Many Shrines in Main Enclosure

There are now many shrines in the Main Enclosure such as Nakatsu Shrine, Nakatsu Grand Shrine, and Okudaira Shrine. An interesting one among them is Kii Shrine, which worships a local warlord, Shigefusa Kii who was invited but murdered in the castle by Nagamasa Kuroda, Yoshitaka’s son. A tradition says Nagamasa established the shrine because he was feared by a ghost of Shigefusa’s revenge and regretted his action.

The map around the Main Enclosure

Nakatsu Shrine
Nakatsu Grand Shrine
Okudaira Shrine on the left
Kii Shrine, quoted from the Tourism Nakatsu Yabakei website
The portrait of Shigefusa Kii, owned by Tentokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Third and Second Enclosures

The Third Enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure, but has become the city area. It has the Main Gate Ruins to the center of the castle, where the past visitors had to pass one more gate, Kuro-mon to reach the Shiki-mon Gate of the Main Enclosure. You can still see part of the great stone walls of the Main Gate among the modern residences.

The map around the castle

The current THird Enclosure
The remaining stone walls of the Main Gate, the front part was first built by the Kuroda Clan and the back part was added by the Hosokawa Clan to make a defensive square space called Masugata
The inside of the gate was like this illustration, the remaining part is marked white, the Kuro-mon Gate and the Shiiki-mon Gate are below it, from the signboard at the site

The other neighboring Second Enclosure has become a park where you can see some remaining stone foundations of Samurai residences.

The Second Enclosure Park
The ruins of the Samurai residences

Fukuzawa’s Old House

Another recommendation you can visit is the old house of Yukichi Fukuzawa, about 1km away from the enclosure in the east. He bought this house when he was 16 years old and lived in it until 19. He came from a lower warrior class in the Nakatsu Domain, so the house can be seen as an example of those which lower class warriors lived in. The house is well maintained, for instance, the thatched roof of it is supported by wooden bars. A storehouse made with thick earthen walls also remains beside the house, where Yukichi studied on its second floor.

Fukuzawa’s Old House
The interior of the house
The supported thatched roof
The storehouse where Fukuzawa studied

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Nakatsu Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings, except for the Main Hall in the Main Enclosure, were demolished. The hall was used as a government office for a while, but was burned down in 1877 by a disturbance during the Seinan War. After that, the castle ruins were used for the several shrines and the Imitation Main Tower was built in 1964. A recent topic about the castle ruins was that there was an internal controversy among the officials of Nakatsu City when it was planning to repair the stone walls opposite the riverside in the Main Enclosure in 2002. The department in charge planned to replace old stones with new ones to re-pile the walls because it didn’t think the stones were original. The construction was just on the point of starting. However, the Cultural Heritage Division argued that the wall might be original and should be preserved. As a result, the stone walls were repaired using the old stones, as it had been discovered that they were the original ones used when Yoshitaka Kuroda first built the castle. The city announced that they are the oldest remaining stone walls in the Kyushu Region.

The repaired stone walls which use the original stones

My Impression

When I visited the current Nakatsu Castle, I was little confused that the site was mixed with the original items and many ones added later such as the Imitation Tower and the shrines. However, as I learned about history of the castle and people in Nakatsu, I understood that these items came from how they made great efforts on maintaining the castle and ruins. I also understood that running castle buildings can be difficult for private sectors which need profit to continue operating. Please give it your consideration to visit Nakatsu Castle when you travel around Nakatsu City.

The Imitation Main Tower seen from the riverside

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 15 minutes drive away from Sadanomi IC on the Nakatsu-Hita Road. There are several parking lots around the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to get there from JR Nakatsu Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Nakatsu Station: Take the express bus to Oita Station from Oita Airport after using a plane, and get the train on the Nippo Line from the station.

A parking lot beside the Main Enclosure

Links and References

Nakatsu Castle Official Website

That’s all. Thank you.
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