129.Tatsuoka Castle Part2

The five star pointed shape is still remaining.

Features

Castle Ruins are used as School

Today, the ruins of Tatsuoka Castle are used as the Taguchi Primary School, which are still surrounded by the five pointed star shaped perimeter. Local people often called them “Tatsuoka Goryokaku (which means Pentagonal Style Fort)”. They are also famous for cherry blossoms. Because of the current usage, the facilities for visitors, such as the information center called “Goryokaku deai-no-yakata”, are located outside of the ruins.

The aerial photo around the castle

The information center

Visitors usually go to the Main Gate Ruins first which have the most precise stone walls in the castle, such as the Tortoise Shell and Hanedashi styles. The restored wooden bridge is over the water moat, where you can feel a traditional atmosphere. There are also two other gate ruins you can pass, one is Kuro-mon and the other is the side gate.

The Main Gate Ruins
The stone walls of the Main Gate
The water moats and stone walls around the Main Gate
The side gate

Walking around Castle Ruins

You can easily walk around the perimeter of the ruins because they are not so large. You will see the moats expire and the stone walls look rough as you go to the back. This is because the construction of the castle, in fact, ended halfway through due to the lack of budget or because of another priority. Please make sure that you don’t walk across the route around the ruins because it is private property.

The stone walls in the back side
There is private property ahead

Only one remaining building

You can also enter the inside of the ruins except for the facilities and playground of the school. If you look around the inside, you will see the five pointed star shape is basically made out of soil. There is the only one remaining building in the castle, called the Kitchen House. It was originally used as part of the Main Hall, then turned int o a school house, a warehouse, and finally moved to the current position as a historical item. Only group tours which has a previous booking can enter this building. Therefore if you want to see it you have to be part of a group.

The inside of the castle ruins
The ruins are surrounded by the earthen walls inside
The remaining Kitchen House

View of Castle Ruins from Observation Platform

Tatsuoka Castle was designed flat, so today’s visitors might not be able to grasp its shape. Therefore, I recommend you consider visiting the Goryokaku observation platform, located on a mountain in the northside, about 500m away from the ruins. In fact, that spot is the ruins of another castle called Taguchi Castle in the Sengoku Period, where you can see several enclosures made of soil.

The relief map around the castle

The Goryokaku observation platform
The ruins of Taguchi Castle

Of course, you can also see a nice view of the five pointed star shape clearly. This has probably been the best spot to overlook the area around. You could easily target Tatsuoka Castle if you were an artillery man attacking the castle during the end of the Edo Period.

A view of Tatsuoka Castle Ruins from the observation platform
The area around the Main Gate Ruins
The Kitchen House

To be continued in “Tatsuoka Castle Part3”
Back to “Tatsuoka Castle Part1”

129.Tatsuoka Castle Part1

The second Goryokaku

Location and History

Matsudaira Clans are Shogun’s Relatives

Tatsuoka Castle was located in Shinao Province which is modern day Nagano Prefecture. It was built at the end of the Edo Period and it is one of the two Pentagonal Style Forts in Japan, with Goryokaku in Hokkaido. The builder of the castle was Norikata Matsudaira, who was the lord of the Tatsuoka Domain. In fact, there were so many Matsudaira Clans at that time, which were the relatives of the Tokugawa families in the shogunate. The family name “Tokugawa” was only allowed to be used with the few core family members who could be the Shogun. The other Tokugawa’s relatives used “Matsudaira” as their family name which had been their original before the first Shogun, Ieyasu started to use Tokugawa.

The photo of Norikata Matsudaira, in the Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Matsudaira Clans can roughly be categorized into three groups. The first group is those which originated from Ieyasu or other Shogun’s children, such as the Echizen Matsudaira Clan at Fukui Castle and the Aizu Matsudaira Clan at Wakamatsu Castle. They were very reliable to the Shogunate, so they often had large territories and castles. The second group is those which had existed before Ieyasu was born, and are sometimes called the Eighteen Matsudaira Clans. In fact, Ieyasu came from one of them, called the Anjo Matsudaira Clan. They were also certainly Ieyasu’s relatives, but he trusted them less than the first group because they could be a competitor to him. As a result, they often had smaller territories which sometimes weren’t allowed to have their own castles because of the area criterion. The last group is those who didn’t have any blood relation with Ieyasu or other Shoguns, but were allowed to use Matsudaira for special reasons.

The ruins of Fukui Castle
Wakamatsu Castle

Norikata from Matsdaira Clans builds Castle

Norikata Matsudaira belonged to the Second group and his clan was also called the Ogyu Matsudaira Clan. Ogyu was the name of their original territory and has been used to identify them among many other Matsudaira Clans. In fact, the clan itself had several branch families because of its long history. Norikata was the lord of the Okutono Domain with an earning of only 16 thousand koku of rice, which meant he was not allowed to have a castle. In addition, his territory was divided into the smaller Okutono in Mikawa Province (now part of Aichi Pref.) and the larger Tatsuoka. His domain had been based in Okutono, so called the Okutono Domain, and the lords had lived in a hall, called the Okutono Camp.

The restored Okutono Camp (licensed by Bariston via Wikimedia Commons)

The situation changed after Japan opened the country to several Western countries in 1854. The shogunate relaxed the restrictions for the lords against the threats from these countries. Norikata was an excellent politician and he learned a lot about the Western items. He thought it was a good chance to do something using his knowledge to follow the government’s new policies. One of them was to move his home base to the larger Tatsuoka, and another was to build his own castle, called Tatsuoka Castle.

The location of the castle

Norikata’s attempts were allowed by the shogunate and the construction of the castle (officially it was still called a camp) started in 1864. The castle was designed to be a European style fort which had five bastions like a star. It came from Norikata’s ideas and was thought to be an effective way to protect it from enemies’ attacks from any directions. The five pointed star shape was all surrounded by advanced stone walls like the Tortoise Shell style and Hanedashi style (in which all the stones in the top row are so layered to prevent enemies from invading). It was expected that water moats were dug all around the castle and canons were placed inside all the bastions. There were the Main Hall for the lord and a parade ground inside. The castle was finally completed in 1866, following the first Pentagonal Style Fort known as Goryokaku in Hokkaido, which was completed back in 1864. Norikata was very pleased to see it, inviting local people to show it, then his domain would be re-considered the Tatsuoka Domain.

The ground plan of Tatsuoka Castle, from the signboard at the site
The stone walls of Tatsuoka Castle
Goryokaku in Hokkaido

Castle for Experiment

However, in fact, there were some disadvantages for the castle. First, Tatsuoka Castle was much smaller than Goryokaku. It was about 150m long, about half of Goryokaku at about 300m, so in terms of size, it was about one forth the size. The stone walls were 3.5m high and the moats were about 10m wide at most, which would be insufficient even in the Sengoku Period. The moats actually covered two thirds of the perimeter and only one bastion had a cannon. Moreover, the castle could be easily targeted by a cannon from a mountain, at about 500m away from it. What did the facts mean for the castle? Norikata probably meant the castle to not be used for a battle, but for authority of his government and an experiment of new technologies instead. The life of the castle only lasted a few years because of the Meiji Restoration.

The water moats of this castle is not so wide
The back side has no moats

The relief map around the castle

To be continued in “Tatsuoka Castle Part2”

2.Goryokaku Part3

If the Benten Cape Battery remained…

Features

Goryokaku Tower

Apart from the ruins themselves, you should consider visiting Goryokaku Tower, a 107m tall observation platform built exclusively for viewing Goryokaku. Goryokaku was designed flat to prevent enemies’ canons from targeting anything, so today’s visitors might not be able to grasp its shape. If you go up in the elevator of the tower to its observation room at 90m high, you will enjoy a great view of the star shaped fort.

Goryokaku Tower
The miniature model of Goryokaku, exhibited in the tower
A view of Goryokaku from the observation room
Hakodate Mountain and the city area can also be seen from the observation room

Ruins of Square Style Fort

Another attraction related to Goryokaku is the ruins of Shiryokaku, the Square Style Fort, about 5km away from Goryokaku in the northeast. It is much smaller than Goryokaku, so you can see its unique structure once you arrive at the ruins.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the Square Style Fort Ruins
You can see the square shape when standing at the edge
The edge seemed to have a cannon

Later History

After the Battle of Hakodate ended, almost all the buildings of Goryokaku were demolished. The Imperial Japanese Army owned the ruins to use as a parade ground during the Meiji Era. In addition, the water in the moats was used to make ice blocks called Hakodate Ice between 1870 and 1953. This was because the water had been led from Kameda River and was clean since the foundation of Goryokaku. In 1913 during the Taisho Era, Hakodate City asked the Minister of the Army to open the ruins as a park, which was accepted in the next year.

The water moat was used to make ice blocks
Looking outside from the edge of a bastion

My Impression

I regret that there are no ruins of the Benten Cape Battery at all. It was completely scrapped and its stone materials were reused for the improvement of Hakodate Port in 1899. Only the signpost stands now where the battery was. If only a little of it remained like Shinagawa Batteries in Tokyo Bay, people could easily understand the sharing of roles between it and Goryokaku. Anyway, I hope Goryokaku will keep its unique position in the Japanese history with its unique style among Japanese castles.

The ruins of the Benten Cape Battery
The monument of the improvement of Hakodate Port
The stone materials from the Benten Cape Battery must hove been used somewhere in the port

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, It is about a 20-minute drive away from Hakodate Airport or the center of Hakodate City. From Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, it takes about 40 minutes to get there. There is a parking lot for visitors beside the park.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Tram Hakodate bound for Yunokawa from Hakodate Station and get off at the Goryokaku-koen-mae stop. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the stop to get there.
To get to Hakodate Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station and transfer to the Hakodate Line at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station.

Links and References

Official Website of Goryokaku Tower

That’s all. Thank you.
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