16.Minowa Castle Part1

The castle of Narimasa Nagano, the strongest general

Location and History

Nagano Clan builds Castle in Sengoku Period

Minowa Castle was located on a hill at the foot of Mt, Haruna in Kozuke Province which is now Gunma Prefecture. The Nagano Clan first built this castle at the start of the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. The clan was thought to originally be an official family of the local government in the ancient times, and eventually became a powerful local lord in the Middle Ages. They had lived near the Provincial Office on a plain land in the center of the province. However, it got dangerous to continue to do so, because many battles happened all over the Kanto Region since the late 15th Century. That’s why the clan built the castle beside the mountain area near western part of the province.

The location of the castle

Narimasa Nagano fights alone

The Nagano Clan worked under the Uesugi Clan, the governor of Kozuke Province. Norimasa Uesugi, the lord of the clan at that time, was defeated by the Hojo Clan from the south in the Battle of Kawagoe Castle in 1546. After that, he escaped from Kozuke Province to Echigo Provence in the north of the Kozuke Province. As a result, most of the local lords supported the Hojo Clan. However, Narimasa Nagano who was the lord of the clan, didn’t do so, showing his loyalty to the Uesugi Clan. He was considered as one of the strongest generals at that time, against large warlords such as the Hojo and Takeda Clans. He organized a group of local lords in the region, called the Minowa Group, to maintain their territories. He even accommodated some other generals who lost their territories due to defeats of battles, such as Yukitaka Sanada.

The wooden statue of Narimasa Nagano, owned by Chojunji Temple, quoted from the website of Takasaki City
The portrait of Yukitaka Sanada, owned by Chokokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

After some years of his binding time, Kenshin Uesugi, the successor of Norimasa, invaded the Kanto Region including Kozuke Province from Echigo Province in 1560. Narimasa became one of senior vassals of the Uesugi Clan again and succeeded to be the lord of the western Kozuke Province. However, when Kenshin returned to his home base, Kasugayama Castle in Echigo Province, the Hojo Clan started to get the territories back. In addition, Narimasa tried to subject the Obata Clan in Kunimine Castle to the southwest of Narimasa’s territory, but failed. This was because Nobuzane Obata, the lord of the clan, asked Shingen Takeda, one of the greatest warlords, for help and became his retainer. Yukitaka Sanada, who was saved by Narimasa, also became a senior vassal of Shingen after leaving Narimasa. Shingen was a lifetime competitor of Kenshin, so he started to invade the western Kozuke in 1561.

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary drawing of Kunimine Castle, exhibited by Kanra Town Museum of History and Folklore
Norizane Obata drawn in the “Battle of Nagashino” folding screens, exhibited by Kanra Town Museum of History and Folklore
The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle falls with Destruction of Nagano Clan

Narimasa could somehow maintain Minowa Castle and the area around in his life, but died of illness in 1561. His son, Narimori Nagano followed his father’s way not to surrendering to their enemies. However, Shingen did a full-scale attack on Minowa Castle in 1566 before the castle fell. Narimori and his relatives fought to the end and finally killed themselves in the Gozen Enclosure of the castle. It is said that they threw the memorial tablets of their ancestors into the well in the enclosure before their deaths.

The family crest of the Nagano Clan, called Hiogi or A fan made of wood
The ruins of well in the Gozen Enclosure of Minowa Castle

After that, Nobuzane Obata changed their master to the Oda and Hojo Clans to maintain their territory after the destruction of the Takeda Clan. In 1590, when the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded Hojo’s Kanto Region, Obata’s own castle fell, then the clan loss their territory as well. On the other hand, the Sanada Clan struggled to be independently based in Ueda, Numata and Iwabitsu Castles. They finally succeeded to achieve this, however it was very hard to climb.

Ueda Castle
The ruins of Numata Castle
The miniature model of Iwabitsu Castle at the information center at the site

Naomasa Ii modernizes and abandons Castle

After Minowa Castle fell, the Takeda Clan owned the castle, followed by the Oda, Hojo and Tokugawa Clans. Naomasa Ii, the head of senior vassals of the Tokugawa Clan, was the last lord of the caste. He entered the castle when the Tokugawa Clan was moved to the Kanto Region in 1590. Minowa Castle was large, but originally had enclosures mainly made of soil, surrounded by dry moats. Naomasa improved and modernized the castle as much as he could. For example, he developed new enclosures such as the Inari Enclosure with a water moat to be more defensive. Stone walls were built alongside the Main Route to show the castle lord’s authority. Some turret gates were also built in the important positions of the castle, such as the Kaku-umadashi Western Entrance Gate. However, Naomasa finally moved to his new home base called Takasaki Castle on a plain land in 1598 before Minowa Castle was abandoned.

The portrait of Naomasa Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Inari Enclosure
The restored Kaku-umadashi Western Entrance Gate
The stone walls of the Third Enclosure Gate Ruins

To be continued in “Minowa Castle Part2”

141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part3

The oldest wooden rebuilt Main Tower

Features

Pine Enclosure and Back in Castle

Other than the Main Tower, you can visit the neighboring Pine Enclosure through the path on the upper tier of the Belt Enclosures. There is a monument of the Ryosotai Party which escaped the Gujo Domain which supported the New Government during the Meiji Restoration. They joined the domains supporting the shogunate and fought against the New Government Army located Wakamatsu Castle.

The upper tier Belt Enclosure as the path connecting the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure
Going to the Pine Enclosure through the upper tier Belt Enclosure
The inside of the Pine Enclosure
The monument of the Ryosotai Party

The parking on the top was one of the ditches behind the castle where most of the fierce fightings happened in 1600. There is a well in the ruins, which was said to have been used to wash the head of slain warriors in battle.

The parking lot on the top
The ruins of the well for washing the head

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Gujo-Hachiman Castle was eventually abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. In 1932, the mayor, Chuhei Nakagami suggested the Main Tower be rebuilt in order to revitalize the town. Other people agreed with him and began making donations. The tower was constructed using the external design plans of Ogaki Castle whose Main Tower remained at that time, however it would be burned down by an air raid in 1945. People also considered how the tower would have looked like when they look up at it from the town. The rebuilt tower was finally completed in 1933.

The old photo of Ogaki Castle, the Main Tower on the right (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The rebuilt Main Tower of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

My Impression

When I visited Gujo-Hachiman town, I thought the purpose of the town was to successfully built a beautiful castle as its symbol. You can see a good view of the Main Tower from any parts of the town. I also finally understood that no matter weather the original tower was there or not, the castle is still very important and much needed by the people of the town.

A view of the Main Tower from the town
Stone walls of the Belt Enclosures
A view from the Main Tower

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Gujo-Hachiman IC on the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway. There are several parking lots for visitors aroud the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the Gujo-Hachiman Jokamachi Plaza.
To get to the plaza from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, transfer to Tokaido Local Line at Nagoya Station and get off at Gifu Station. Then, take the Gifu bus on the highway Hachiman line and get off at the Jokamachi Plaza bus stop.

The parling lot at the foot of the mountain
The parking lot at halfway up

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1”
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141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part2

A beautiful symbol of the town

Features

Symbol of Gujo-Hachiman Town

Today, Gujo-Hachiman Castle has become a symbol of the Gujo-Hachiman town. You can see the rebuilt Main Tower of the castle on the mountain from any parts of the town. The mountain is covered with cherry blossoms in spring, green leaves in summer, autumn leaves in fall, and snow in winter. A famous writer, Ryotaro Shiba said the castle was “the most beautiful mountain castle in Japan” when he visited it in the early spring when the snow remained on the ground. If you drive to the castle, you can park either at the foot, halfway up, or on the top of the mountain. You can also hike up the mountain from wherever you park.

A view of Gujo-Hachiman Castle from the town

The map around the castle

If you climb from the parking lot at the foot, you will pass by the ruins of the rice warehouse where the farmers gathered during the Gujo uprising and the Shiroyama Park where the Main Hall was built. From this point, you can enter the mountain trail.

The route from the parking lot at the foot
The ruins of the rice warehouse
Going to the halfway up of the mountain
Around the Shiroyama Park
The route from the halfway up

Three-tier Belt Enclosures

After about a 10-minute climb, you will see the three-tier Belt Enclosures surrounded by old stone walls that were piled up naturaly. The first (lower) tier is now used as the paved road to the parking lot on the top. The second (middle) tier is used as the promenade for visitors from the parking lot to the castle facilities. The third and final upper tier is for the path connecting the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure on the top.

The route is mixed with the roadway and trail
The stone walls of the lower tier
The paved road on the lower tier (on the left) and the stone walls of the middle tier (on the right)
The observation platform on the middle tier (originally a barbican?)
The promenade on the middle tier (on the left) and the stone walls of the upper tier (on the right)
The path on the upper tier (on the left) and the stone walls of the Cherry Enclosure (on the right)

Rebuilt Main Tower has Traditional Taste

You can enter the Cherry Enclosure to visit the rebuilt Main Tower. Experts speculate the three-level Main Tower would have been built in this area. However, because it was only seen in some drawings, and not scientifically proven by excavations and records. It would be difficult to call the current tower the reconstructed one. If the original towers was not built on the past, we can call the current tower the imitation tower. Since we can’t be certain of that fact, let’s simply refer to it as the rebuilt main tower.

The map around the top

The entrance of the Cherry Enclosure
The rebuilt Main Tower
The original stone wall base for the tower
The Main Tower in the drawing of the battle in 1600 at the castle, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

It is the oldest wooden rebuilt Main Tower in Japan, built back in 1933, nearly 90 years ago. However, it is not the original, but it has a taste of traditional Japanese architecher. You can hear squeak noises from wooden floors as you walk or climb in the tower because of this old wooden building. The tower has 4 levels and 5 floors including the lower floors which are used for exhibitions of the castle and town. You can easily climb up on the stairways to the top floor. There, you can enjoy a great view of the area around.

The interior of the rebuilt Main Tower
Climbing up to the top floor
A view of Gujo-Hachiman town from the top floor

To be continued in “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part3”
Back to “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1”