179.Kagomori Castle Part1

A castle located around the border between provinces

Location and History

Area of Border Dispute

The ruins of Kagomori Castle are now located in Matsuno Town in Ehime Prefecture, near the Kochi border. Similarly, the castle was located in Iyo Province which was near the border of Iyo Province and Tosa Province in the past. This location was often tense because it was important to the lords of both provinces in order to maintain their territories.

The range of Iyo Province and the location of Kagomori Castle

It is often said The Watanabe Clan owned the castle since the 12th Century. The clan eventually followed the Saionji Clan which governed the southern Iyo Province, and became one of the fifteen commanders of Saionji. Kanesada Ichijo, the lord of Tosa Province in the first 16th Century, sent one of his relatives, to the Watanabe Clan to become their adopted heir. In fact, this was his preparation for the invasion of Iyo Province. The adopted Noritada Watanabe did nothing for his master, Kinhiro Saionji when Kanesada actually invaded the Iyo Province in 1567. Kinhiro got angry and decided to attack Noritada in Kagomori Castle before Noritada could surrender. This event happened at the castle near the border.

The portrait of Kanesada Ishijo, owned by Ryushu-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is built on U shape Ridge

Kagomori Castle was built on a mountain where the ridge looked like the letter U. A lot of its enclosures were in a line on the long and narrow ridge. The Main Enclosure was on the center of the U shape, in the northernmost section. Nine enclosures were from the western edge of the U shape which was the next to the Main Enclosure. Another three enclosures were east of the Main Enclosure. In addition, the two Kojo Enclosures and the Sinjo Enclosure were in the eastern edge of the U shape. There were 16 enclosures in total, though each of them was small. They were basically made of soil, divided by artificial ditches, and the slope of the mountain which was intentionally cut vertically. Moreover, the mountain was surrounded by rivers in three directions except for the south. Overall, the castle can be seen as a stronghold using natural terrain.

The relief map around the castle

During the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the 1580s, his retainer, Katsutaka Toda became the lord of the southern Iyo Province which included Kagomori Castle. Katsutaka became the leader, and then, Takatora Todo became the next leader in 1595 after Katsutaka died. Kagomori Castle continued to be an important castle near the border of Tosa Province even during the unification of Japan. This is because the governance of Japan was still unstable. The lord of Iyo Province needed to keep monitoring the movements of the Chosogabe and Yamanouchi Clans.

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is improved during Unification of Japan

Kagomori Castle had basically been a simple mountain castle, but was eventually improved with the latest technology from Katsutaka or Takatora. For example, stone walls were built around the Main Enclosure. The enclosure originally had the Main Hall for the lord, and a building like the Main Tower was added. The excavation team managed to find large sized rooftiles including grampuses at the site, which could have been used for the Main Tower. According to Takatora’s biography, the Main Tower of Kagomori Castle was moved to his home base, Uwajima Castle and used as a turret. However, this is still not entirely proven, but Kagomori Castle might have looked like a modern castle.

The partially remaining stone walls at the Main Enclosure of Kagomori Castle
Uwajima Castle

In 1615, Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, defeated the Toyotomi Clan in Osaka Castle. After that, the authority of the shogunate was established. The shogunate ordered all of the lords in Japan to follow one castle rule, the Law of One Castle per Province to make its government more stable. Because of the new law, Kagomori Castle, which was owned by the Date Clan after Takatora was moved to another province, was eventually abandoned.

The ruins of Kagomori Castle

To be continued in “Kagomori Castle Part2”

80.Yuzuki Castle Part3

The castle ruins were saved by the decision of Ehime Prefecture.

Features

Great View from Top of Hill

Of course, you can climb up to the top of the hill, which is called the Hondan (like the Main Enclosure) which is now used as the observation platform. You can find a few explanations of the castle there because the excavation team didn’t find any relics. However, you can enjoy a view of Matsuyama Castle and the Dogo Spring Spot Town from the same platform. In fact, in the first 17th Century, Takatora Todo, who shared Iyo Province with his rival, Yoshiaki Kato, once used the abandoned Yuzuki Castle to monitor Matsuyama Castle which Yoshiaki built. Takatora would have seen the same view as we see now from Yuzuki Castle.

The aerial photo around the castle

Going to the top
The top called Hondan with the observation platform
A view of the Dogo Spring Spot Town
A distant view of Matsuyama Castle
The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Later History

In 1888 during the Meiji Era, Ehime Prefecture opened the Dogo Park at the ruins of Yuzuki Castle. The park became popular when a zoo opened in the park in 1953. However, the zoo was moved to another site in 1987 because of two issues. One was because of the bad odor, and another was because of the noise in the city area. The research of the Yuzuki Castle Ruins was done in the former area of the zoo before being turned into a modern Japanese garden. Plenty of relics were discovered in a good condition. Therefore, the prefecture reversed its decision to turn the ruins into a historical park in 1990. The restoration of Yuzuki Castle started in 1998 based on the results of the excavation and the examples of other sites like Ichijodani Castle before its eventual completion in 2001. the ruins were finally designated as a National Historic Site in 2002.

The remaining Inner Moat surrounded by the earthen walls
The flags of Yuzuki Castle at the entrance

My Impression

I didn’t know if Yuzuki Castle would have survived because of its severe history. I’m grateful for the prefecture’s decision to preserve them because no one would have remembered the history of Iyo Provence before Matsuyama Castle. The Dogo Park including the ruins has a good atmosphere. I recommend walking around the park as well as the town of the Dogo Hot Spring nearby where you can see other traditional buildings such as the Isaniwa Shrine and the Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse.

The Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse
The Isaniwa Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is about 20 minutes away from Matsuyama IC on the Matsuyama Expressway. The Dogo Park offers parking lots.
By public transportation, take the tram in front of JR Matsuyama Station and get off at the Dogo-koen station.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend traveling by plane or using an express bus.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Yuzuki Castle Part1”
Back to “Yuzuki Castle Part2”

80.Yuzuki Castle Part2

The beauty between the Inner and Outer Moats of Yuzuki Castle was restored.

Features

Entrance of Castle Ruins

Today, the ruins of Yuzuki Castle have been developed as the Dogo Park. The western and southern parts of it are the restored area. The western entrance, which was originally used as the back gate, looks like the front gate now. If you go across the earthen bridge over to the Outer Moat to enter the inside of the earthen walls, you may feel like you are inside a medieval castle. You can first visit the Yuzuki Castle Museum near the entrance to learn more about the history of the Kono Clan and how the area was first developed.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of Yuzuki Castle Ruins (the Dogo Park)
The earthen walls along the Outer Moat
The Yuzuki Castle Museum

Restored Warrior’s House

Next to the museum in the western part, which is a middle-class warrior’s house, including the gate and mud walls in front of it, was restored. If you enter the house, you will see its interior was also restored because the layout was discovered by the excavation team. There are five mannequins representing people who once lived in the castle enjoying a poetry party in the meeting room, while another mannequin is preparing a meal and tea in the kitchen.

One of the restored warrior’s house
A view in the restored meeting room
A view in the restored kitchen

You can visit the other restored warrior’s house with the exhibition room inside. The reason for this is the original layout of it is not clear to see even though the excavation was already done.

The other restored warrior’s house
An exhibition in the room

High-class Warriors’ Residential Area

The southern part was originally used as a Japanese garden as well as the residential areas for the high-class warriors. You can now see the diagram on the lawn of how the residential were back then. The wild rocks of the hill still face where the garden was used to be, so the rocks might have been used as a natural scenery for the garden. I recommend seeing the Inner Moat with the earthen walls nearby.

The former residential areas for the high-class warriors
The wild rocks of the hill
The remaining Inner Moat

Unique Earthen Wall Exhibition Room

As for the earthen walls beside the Outer Moat, there is the exhibition room showing the earthen walls, inside them. You can see the original cutout model of the walls confirming how the excavation team penetrated, and explanation for them. This model was taken when the excavation was done and used to visualize how other earthen walls would have been restored. It is very interesting and easy to understand how great the construction was.

The exhibition room in the earthen walls along the Outer Moat
The original cutout model of the walls in the room

To be continued in “Yuzuki Castle Part3”
Back to “Yuzuki Castle Part1”