82.Ozu Castle Part3

People in Ozu struggled to restore the Main Tower.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Ozu Castle was abandoned and once used as a government office. However, the castle land was eventually sold and the castle buildings were demolished. Four turrets lastly remain as Owata Turret in the Second Enclosure, the Southern Corner Turret in the Third Enclosure, and the two ones in the Main Enclosure. People in Ozu were afraid to lose the castle ruins, so they turned them into a park with peach trees in the Meiji Era.

The remaining Owata Turret in the Second Enclosure
the remaining Southern Corner Turret in the Third Enclosure
The remaining Handrail Turret
The old photo of the Main Enclosure after being planted with peach trees, exhibited in the castle

After World War II, people in Ozu had been thinking about restoring the Main Tower in the original way, while many other Main Towers in Japan were restored in a modern way like Nagoya Castle. This was because many materials for the restoration remained, such as drawings, the frame model of the tower made when it was repaired, and several clear photos taken before it was scraped, which was a very rare case in Japan.

The Main Tower of Nagoya Castle, restored in a modern way
the frame model of the Main Tower of Ozu Castle, used for the restoration, from the signboard at the site

However, there was a big problem with the law. Japan’s Building Standard Act has very strict rules on wooden buildings which are over 13m tall. The original Main Tower of Ozu Castle was over 19m, which meant it couldn’t be restored. The good news came in the 1990’s, the wooden towers in the other castles of Shirakawa-Komine, Kakegawa and Shiroishi were allowed to be restored. Ozu Castle’s Main Tower is the tallest among other towers, but after a long negotiation with the officials, the tower’s restoration was completed in 2004.

The restored wooden three-leveled turret of Shirakawa-Komine Castle
The restored wooden Main Tower of Kakegawa Castle
The restored wooden Main Tower of Shirakawa-Komine Castle
The restored wooden Main Tower of Ozu Castle

My Impression

I think the Main Tower of Ozu Castle is the best one out of the restored Main Towers in Japan. This is because the tower and two remaining turrets both sides are in perfect harmony. In addition, I recommend seeing the castle from the riverside. River traffic was one of the main means of transportation, so the castle’s design was done considering the view from the riverside. You can see a beautiful completely restored appearance of the Main Tower and the collaboration with the turrets.

A view of Hijikawa River from the Main Enclosure
The riverside of Hijikawa River
A view of the Main Tower and the Handrail Turret from around the river

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 10 minutes away from Minami-Ozu IC on the Matsuyama Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in the city area near the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 25 minutes on foot from the JR Iyo-Ozu Station.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend traveling by plane or using an express bus.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Ozu Castle Part1”
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82.Ozu Castle Part2

You can enjoy both the restored Main Tower and the remaining turrets.

Features

From Entrance to Second Enclosure

Today, Ozu Castle is open to the public as the Shiroyama Park. The range of the park is the Main Enclosure and part of the Second Enclosure. The water moats, which was one of the most important features of the castle, were unfortunately reclaimed. This is so, the entrance of the park faces the public road. However, you can see the Main Tower, which had been scraped in 1888, but was restored in almost the same way in 2004.

MarkerMarkerMarkerMarkerMarker
Second Enclosure Main Gate
Leaflet|国土地理院
The aerial photo around the castle

You can also walk on the road, which was probably one of the moats, into the park. You will pass the ruins of the Main Gate with some remaining stone walls, then you will be in the Second Enclosure. The enclosure had the Main Hall and lots of warehouses, and the only warehouse that remained is called” Shimo-daidokoro”.

The entrance to the castle
The ruins of the Second Enclosure Main Gate
The remaining Shimo-daidokoro Warehouse

Restored Main Tower and Remaining Turrets at Main Enclosure

After that, you will climb on the hill which is the Main Enclosure. The enclosure has the lower and higher tiers. The lower tier has the ruins of a large well, so it was also called the Well Enclosure in the past. The higher tier is the highest and the center of the castle. It was surrounded by the gates, walls and turrets, but now you can easily enter the main enclosure. The restored Main Tower with the two remaining turrets both sides still stand out, which are definitely the highlight of the castle.

The stone walls around the Well Enclosure
Going to the higher tier of the Main Enclosure
The restored Main Tower (in the center), the remaining Kitchen Turret (on the right), and Handrail Turret (on the left)

These buildings are connected to each other by the other restored Passage Turrets. Visitors enter the entrance of the Kitchen Turret or Daidokoro Yagura, one of the remaining turrets. It is thought that this turret was used for a kitchen like the name as there are lots of lattice windows for ventilation. You will next go to the restored area. The materials of the area still look new unlike those of the remaining area. However, you may not feel strange because both areas were built in the same way using wooden materials. You will enter the Main Tower after going through the Passage Turret.

The entrance of the Kitchen Turret
The interior of the Kitchen Turret
The interior of the Passage Turret

Interior of restored Main Tower

The Main Tower has four floors. The central part of the first and second floors is made in the open beam ceiling. For that, you can see lots of wooden pillars and how they are combined wisely. The wooden materials for the pillars were provided by many local organizations or individuals, which are shown on the panels in the tower. The panels also explain the history of the castle.

The first floor of the tower
The open beam ceiling between the first and second floors
The second floor of the tower

You can go up to the top floor by climbing the steep stairways but which is considered safe, using handles. You can enjoy a view of Hijikawa River from the top through a lattice window made in the original way.

The stairway from the third floor to the top floor
The top floor
A view from a lattice window

Handrail Turret with good views

You can also go to the other remaining turret called the Handrail Turret or Koran Yagura from the back of the Main Tower through the other Passage Turret. The turret has a veranda with the handrail at the second floor like the name. You can climb up to the floor using the original stairway. Actually, you can’t go out to the veranda probably to preserve the place. However, you can feel the floor is open and enjoy a view of the outside. The lord of the castle must have used the turret for viewing.

From the Main Tower to the Handrail Turret
The interior of the first floor of the turret
The stairway to the second floor
The interior of the second floor of the turret
A view from the handrail

To be continued in “Ozu Castle Part3”
Back to “Ozu Part1”

82.Ozu Castle Part1

Many clans developed Ozu Castle and the area around.

Location and History

Utsunomiya Clan first builds Castle

Ozu Castle was located in the southern part of Iyo Province on Shikoku Island, which is now Ozu City in Ehime Prefecture. The castle was first built on a hill called Jizogadake by the Utsunomiya Clan in the 14th Century. This location was near the intersection of Ozu-Uwajima Road and Hijikawa River, an important point for transportation. The Utsunomiya Clan eventually became one of the local warlords in the province during the Sengoku Period in the late 15th to the 16th Century.

MarkerMarker
Ozu Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The range of Iyo Province and the location of the castle

Takatora Todo modernizes Castle

After Hideyoshi Toyotomi achieved his unification of Japan, Takatora Todo, who worked under Hideyoshi owned Ozu Castle in 1595. He was based in Uwajima Castle, but he modernized both Ozu and Uwajima Castles. The details of improved Ozu Castle by Takatora are uncertain, because the ruins of it are under the current Ozu Castle. However, it is thought that the basic structure of the castle was completed by him. The Main Enclosure was on the hill beside Hijikawa River flowing from the east to the north of the castle. The Second Enclosure was below the hill on the opposite side of the river. Both enclosures were surrounded by the Inner Mort in the south and west. The Third Enclosure and the Outer Moat were also outside of them. The water of the moats was from the river, so the castle is also called a River Castle.

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The illustration of Ozu Castle in Iyo Province, exhibited by the National Diet Library of Japan

Yasuharu Wakizaka builds Main Tower?

In 1609, Yasuharu Wakizaka, was transferred from Sumoto Castle to Ozu Castle as the founder of the Ozu Domain. It is said that he built the four leveled Main Tower in the Main Enclosure. Some historians also speculate that he might have moved the Main Tower of Sumoto Castle to Ozu. This is because the sizes of the stone wall bases for both castles are almost the same, according to the recent research. The two two-story turrets called Daidokoro-Yagura and Koran-Yagura were built at both sides of the Main Tower, connected by the Passage Turrets. Many other turrets were also built in the important positions of each enclosure.

The portrait of Yasuharu Wakizaka, owned by Tatsuno Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The stone wall base for the Main Tower and the imitation Tower of Sumoto Castle
The old photo of the Main Tower and the Daidokoro-Yagura Turret of Ozu Castle, from the signboard at the site

Kato Clan maintains Castle

In 1617, the Kato Clan was transferred from Yonago Castle to Ozu Castle, which governed the castle and the Ozu Domain over 13 generations until the end of the Edo Period. The domain didn’t have a large territory (60 thousand rice of koku) which meant they were not rich. However, it promoted industries such as Tobe pottery, Japanese papers and Japan wax. It also founded the domain school called Meirinkan to educate warriors. At the end of the Edo Period, one of the warriors, Ayasaburo Takeda learned the Western military science after graduation. He lastly built the first Western style castle called Goryokaku in Hakodate, Hokkaido Island, he also worked as the instructor of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Sadayasu Kato, the first lord of the clan, owned by Ozu City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Ayasaburo Takeda (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Goryokaku

As for Ozu Castle, the Second Enclosure became the center of the castle in the peaceful time, having the Main Hall, warehouses surrounded by the Main Gate and some turrets.

The Second Enclosure drawn in the Illustration of Ozu Castle in 1692, exhibited in the castle

To be continued in “Ozu Castle Part2”

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