174.Ouchi Clan Hall/Konomine Castle Part1

The land of the Ouchi Clan’s prosperity

Location and History

Ouchi Clan builds Town and Hall at Yamaguchi

Ouchi Clan Hall was the homebase of the clan which had great power in western Japan in the Middle Ages. Konomine Castle was a mountain castle near the hall, which the clan built during their last years. The Ouchi Clan was originally an official family of the local government in Suo Province which is modern day part of Yamaguchi Prefecture. The clan got power by supporting the Ashikaga Shogunate in the 14th Century. As a result, the clan became the governors of several provinces in western Japan, including Suo and Nagato as their core, which was equal to Yamaguchi Prefecture. They had a complex relationship with the Shogun. For example, Yoshihiro Ouchi, the lord of the clan in the late 14th Century was given 6 provinces by the Shogun, Yoshimitsu Ashikaga. However, he was beaten and killed by the shogunate in the Oei Rebellion in 1399. That’s because the shogunate wanted to rely on, but sometimes feared the power of the Ouchi Clan.

The range of Suo Province and the location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

The portrait of Yoshimitsu Ashikaga, owned by Rokuonji Temple  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ouchi Clan Hall was first built by Yoshihiro’s father, Hiroyo after he set his homebase at Yamaguchi in 1560. Provincial governors often stayed in Kyoto at that time, so they brought the ways of life and cultures from Kyoto when they went back to their homebase. The hall was said to be a typical example of it, being on a square enclosure which was nearly 200m on one side, surrounded by earthen walls and water or dry moats. Not only did it have the Main Hall, but it also had at least three different gardens like a pond garden and a dry landscape or Karesansui, emulating the shogun’s palace. The hall was eventually developed as the clan gained more power, and even a villa was built called Tukiyama Hall in the north. The Yamaguchi town around the hall was also developed and was often called Western Kyoto.

the shogun’s palace drawn on the Folding Screens of Scenes in and around Kyoto (Uesugi Version), owned by Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Part of the Old Map of Yamaguchi, the yellow block in the lower center is Ouchi Clan Hall, and another one above is Tukiyama Hall, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

The Ouchi Clan continued to grow in power every generation even after they lost the battle in 1399. Norihiro Ouchi, the lord in the middle 15th Century, added Chikuzen Province which had the international Hakata port to his territory. He started to trade with Ming dynasty in China on behalf of the shogun via the port. The Tsukiyama Hall villa was first built as his retreat. Norihiro’s son, Masahiro fought in Kyoto during the Onin War (1467 to 1477) as the main force of the Western Squad for about 10 years. He also stated his clan was a decedent of a prince of Paekche, making their diplomacy and trading smoother and their authority much stronger.

A tea jar excavated at Ouchi Clan Hall Ruins, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore
The whole view of Tukiyama Hall Ruins, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

Ouchi Clan helps Shogun as Great Warlord

During the Sengoku Period after the Onin War, the Ouchi Clan became one of the greatest warlords. The shogun’s power decreased however, and he could not survive without help from a great warlord. For example, the 10th Ashikaga Shogun Yoshitane was banished by the Hosokawa Clan from Kyoto. The banished shogun went to Yamaguchi in 1500, where Masahiro’s son, Yoshioki governed. Yoshioki invited Yoshitane to the Ouchi Clan Hall for dinner. It was called one of the greatest dinners in the Middle Ages, with 32 courses and over 110 dishes. Yoshitane spent 14 hours (from 2pm to 4am) enjoying the dinner that day. In 1508, Yoshioki went to Kyoto with Yoshitane with large troops so that Yoshitane came back to the shogun. The shogun rewarded Yoshioki by giving him Yamashiro Province including Kyoto and a Court noble rank.

The portrait of Yoshioki Ouchi, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Yoshitane Ashikaga, owned by Tokyo National Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Replicas of a dinner served at Ouchi Clan Hall, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

The power of the Ouchi Clan reached its peak when Yoshioki’s son, Yoshitaka became the lord. They managed to govern 4 provinces (Nagato, Suo, Chikuzen, and Buzen) and was invading 3 provinces at the same time (Iwami, Aki, and Bingo). Yamaguchi town prospered more while Kyoto continued to be devastated as the power of the shogunate continued to decrease. Many nobles, high priests, and intellectuals managed to escape from Kyoto and Yamaguchi accommodated them. Even, a famous missionary of the Society of Jesus, Francisco Xavier visited the town twice. He gave a tribute to Yoshitaka instead of the Emperor of Kyoto so that he would be allowed to take Christianity to Japan. He seemed to consider Yoshitaka as the king of the country.

The portrait of Yoshitaka Ouchi, owned by Ryufukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Francisco Xavier, owned by Kobe City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ouchi Clan builds Konomine Castle, but declines

However, a bad sign came to Yoshitaka in 1543. He failed to capture Gassan-Toda Castle, the homebase of the Amago Clan in Izumo Province. There were also internal conflicts between the senior vassals, officers and dependent people from the outside, which Yoshitaka didn’t notice. In 1551, a senior vassal, Takafusa Tou rebelled against Yoshitaka. Yoshitaka managed to escape from Ouchi Clan Hall, tried to board a ship, but failed, and finally he committed Harakiri.

The ruins of Gassan-Toda Castle

After that, the situation changed significantly. Takafusa helped Yoshitaka’s relative, Yoshinaga being the new lord of the Ouchi Clan, but he was unfortunately defeated in 1555 by Motonari Mori, the lord of Yoshida Koriyama Castle in Aki Province. Yoshinaga built Konomine Castle on a mountain near the hall to protect themselves when he noticed that the Mori Clan could invade his territory. The clan actually did it in 1557, so Yoshinaga stayed in the castle. The castle was good defensively, but could not survive without reinforcement and supply. He managed to escape to another site, but could not do anything to counter, and finally he committed Harakiri like Yoshitaka, which meant the destruction of the Ouchi Clan. It was unknown when the Ouchi Clan Hall was burned down. Konomine Castle was used by the Mori Clan until it was abandoned in 1615 due to the One Castle per Province Law by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The red solid model of Konomine Castle, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

To be continued in “Ouchi Clan Hall/Konomine Castle Part2”

174.大内氏館・高嶺城 その1

大内氏繁栄の地

立地と歴史

大内氏が山口に町と館を建設

大内氏館は、中世の西日本で強大な勢力を誇った大内氏の本拠地でした。高嶺(こうのみね)城は、大内氏がその最後の時期に築いた、館近くにあった山城です。大内氏はもともと、現在の山口県の一部である周防国国府の在庁官人の一族でしたが、14世紀に足利幕府を支持したことをきっかけに勢力を広げていきました。その結果大内氏は、現在の山口県にあたる周防と長門をコアとする西日本のいくつもの国の守護となりました。彼らと足利幕府の将軍とは複雑な関係にありました。例えば、14世紀後半の大内氏当主の大内義弘は、将軍の足利義満から6ヶ国の守護職を与えられていました。ところが、1399年の応永の乱において幕府と戦い、敗死してしまいます。将軍家は大内氏を頼りたい一方、強大になりすぎることも恐れていたのです。

周防国の範囲と城の位置

城周辺の起伏地図

足利義満肖像画、鹿苑寺蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

大内氏館は最初は、義弘の父、弘世(ひろよ)が1560年に山口を本拠地とした後に築かれました。その当時、各国の守護は京都に頻繁に留まっており、本拠地に帰るときには京都の生活様式や文化を持ち込みました。大内氏館は、そういった風潮の典型例であり、一辺が200m近くある四角い曲輪を土塁と水堀あるいは空堀が囲んでいました。その内部には御殿だけはなく、池泉庭園や枯山水など少なくとも3つの庭園が存在していました。これらは京都の将軍の御所を模したスタイルでした。この館は大内氏の勢力が増すとともに拡張されていき、その北側には築山館(つきやまやかた)と呼ばれる別邸も建設されました。館の周りの山口の町も整備され、度々「西の京」と称されました。

将軍が住んでいた「花の御所」、「上杉本洛中洛外図屏風」より  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
「山口古図」部分、真ん中下の黄色い区画が大内氏館、その上が築山館、山口市歴史民俗資料館にて展示

大内氏は、1399年の敗戦後であっても、代を重ねるごとに勢力を蓄えていきました。15世紀中頃の当主であった大内教弘(のりひろ)は、当時の国際貿易港であった博多がある筑前国を領地に加えました。そして、将軍の名代としてその港経由で明王朝との交易を始めました。築山館は、最初は彼の隠居所として築かれたのです。教弘の息子、政弘(まさひろ)は京都で応仁の乱(1467年から1477年)を西軍の主力として約10年間戦いました。彼はまた、大内氏は百済国の王子の子孫であると称することで、外交と貿易を円滑にし、その権威をも高めました。

大内氏館跡で発掘された輸入茶壷、山口市歴史民俗資料館にて展示
築山館跡全景、山口市歴史民俗資料館にて展示

有力戦国大名として将軍の後見役に

応仁の乱後の戦国時代には、大内氏は最有力の戦国大名の一つとなりました。一方で将軍の権威は衰え、有力戦国大名の助けがなければ存在できなりました。例えば、10代将軍の足利義稙(よしたね)は、細川氏により京都から追放されました。義稙は1500年に政弘の息子、義興(よしおき)が治めていた山口に逃れてきました。義興は、義稙を大内氏館の宴に招待しました。そのときの献立は中世最大の宴とも言われており、三十二献110品以上の料理が供されたとされています。義稙は午後2時から翌日午前4時までの14時間の宴を大内氏館で過ごしたのです。1508年、義興は義稙と大軍を率いて上洛を果たし、義稙を再び将軍職に就任させました。義稙は義興に報いるために、京都がある山城の守護職と朝廷の公卿にあたる官位(従三位)を与えました。

大内義興肖像画、山口県立山口博物館蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
足利義稙肖像画、東京国立博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
大内氏館で出された献立のレプリカ

大内氏の勢力は、義興の息子、義隆(よしたか)が当主のときに最高潮に達しました。4ヶ国(長門、周防、筑前、豊前)を完全に支配し、3ヶ国(石見、安芸、備後)に対して同時に侵攻中でした。幕府の力が衰えていき京都が荒廃していくのとは対照的に、山口の町はますます繁栄しました。多くの貴族、高僧、知識人たちが京都から逃れ、山口は彼らを受け入れたのです。有名なイエズス会の宣教師、フランシスコ・サビエルも山口を2度訪れています。彼は、京都にいる天皇ではなく、義隆に貢物を献上し、日本でのキリスト教の布教を許されたのです。サビエルは、義隆の方を国王と認識したのでしょう。

大内義隆肖像画、龍福寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
フランシスコ・ザビエル肖像画、神戸市立博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

高嶺城の築城と大内氏の滅亡

ところが、1543年に義隆に不幸が訪れます。出雲国の尼子氏の本拠地であった月山富田城の攻略に失敗したのです。また、大内氏の内部にも義隆が気付かないうちに、重臣や官僚たち、そして外部から大内氏を頼ってきた人たちの間で内部分裂が生じていました。1551年、重臣の一人、陶隆房(とうたかふさ)が義隆に対して反乱を起こしました。義隆は何とか大内氏館から逃れ、海上に逃れようとしたのですが失敗し、ついには自害に追い込まれました。

月山富田城跡

その後、状況は急激に変化しました。隆房(晴賢に改名)は、義隆の親族である義長(よしなが)を大内氏の当主に据えました。しかし、不幸にも1555年に安芸国吉田郡山城の城主、毛利元就との戦いに敗れ、自害して果てました。義長は毛利氏が彼の領土に侵攻してくることに備え、防衛のため、館の近くの山上に高嶺城を築きました。毛利氏は実際に1557年に山口に攻めてきて、義長は城に籠りました。しかし、城自体の防御性は高かったものの、援軍や兵糧がなくてはどうにもなりません。彼は他所に逃れましたが、反撃することもままならず、ついには義隆のごとく切腹せざるをえませんでした。これにより、大内氏は滅亡します。大内氏館は、それまでのいずれかの時期に焼亡しました。高嶺城は、徳川幕府が発した1615年の一国一城令による廃城のときまでは毛利氏が使用しました。

毛利元就肖像画、毛利博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
高嶺城の赤色立体模型、山口市歴史民俗資料館にて展示

「大内氏館・高嶺城その2」に続きます。

66.Tsuwano Castle Part3

Tsuwano Town is making great efforts to maintain the ruins.

Features

Sanjukken-dai and Main Tower Bases

The next is the highest point of the castle, called Sanjukken-dai or the about 54m long base. It was surrounded by mud walls in the Edo Period, and it is a square now which is definitely a great view spot. Please enjoy a view of Tsuwano Town with reddish brown colored roofs.

The map around the castle

Sanjukken-dai or the about 54m long base
A view from the Sanjukken-dai base
The view of Tsuwano Town with reddish brown colored roofs
A view of the Hostage Turret Ruins from the Sanjukken-dai base
A steep slope beside the Sanjukken-dai base where many of its stone walls have collapsed

The next is the stone wall base for the Main Tower just blow the Sanjukken-dai Base. It was rare that the Main Tower was not at the highest point among Japanese castles.

The Main Tower base blow the Sanjukken-dai Base
The top of the Main Tower base

Attractions of former Castle Town

If you have time, you should check out many historical items in the former castle town such as the restored domain school, some remaining gate buildings of senior vassals, the old houses of Amane Nishi and Ogai Mori, and the carps in the waterways which Naomori started to breed.

The restored domain school called Yorokan
The interior of the school
The front gate of the residence of the Tako Clan, a senior vassal of the Tsuwano Domain
The old house of Amane Nishi
Carps in the waterways

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Tsuwano Castle was abandoned and most of the castle buildings were demolished. One of them, a gate at the foot was used as the front gate of Hamada Prefectural Government and finally moved to the ruins of Hamada Castle. The Tsuwano Domain was just merged to the prefecture at that time. The gate is still remaining at the site. Tsuwano Castle Ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1942. Tsuwano Town has been researching and repairing them one by one to maintain them.

The gate of the Tsuwano Castle at Hamada Castle Ruins

My Impression

I can’t imagine how tough the castle construction including the stone walls on such a steep mountain was in a short period of Naomori Sakazaki at only 16 years. I hope Tusuwano Town will somehow maintain and develop the castle ruins, which should be hard work. I would like to visit the ruins again by climbing the trail from the foot next time, where the older castle ruins the Yosimi Clan first built can be seen.

The stone walls of the Southern Turret Gate Ruins on the mountain

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about 40 minutes away from Muikaichi IC on the Chugoku Expressway. There is a parking lot in front of the lift platform at the foot of the mountain.
By public transportation, It takes about 20 minutes on foot from Tsuwano Station. Or you can take the Iwami-Kotsu Bus or Tsuwano Town Bus from the station and get off at the Mori bus stop to get the lift.
To get to Tsuwano Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Yamaguchi Line at Shin-Yamaguchi Station.

Tsuwano Station

That’s all. Thank you.
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