129.Tatsuoka Castle Part1

The second Goryokaku

Location and History

Matsudaira Clans are Shogun’s Relatives

Tatsuoka Castle was located in Shinao Province which is modern day Nagano Prefecture. It was built at the end of the Edo Period and it is one of the two Pentagonal Style Forts in Japan, with Goryokaku in Hokkaido. The builder of the castle was Norikata Matsudaira, who was the lord of the Tatsuoka Domain. In fact, there were so many Matsudaira Clans at that time, which were the relatives of the Tokugawa families in the shogunate. The family name “Tokugawa” was only allowed to be used with the few core family members who could be the Shogun. The other Tokugawa’s relatives used “Matsudaira” as their family name which had been their original before the first Shogun, Ieyasu started to use Tokugawa.

The photo of Norikata Matsudaira, in the Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Matsudaira Clans can roughly be categorized into three groups. The first group is those which originated from Ieyasu or other Shogun’s children, such as the Echizen Matsudaira Clan at Fukui Castle and the Aizu Matsudaira Clan at Wakamatsu Castle. They were very reliable to the Shogunate, so they often had large territories and castles. The second group is those which had existed before Ieyasu was born, and are sometimes called the Eighteen Matsudaira Clans. In fact, Ieyasu came from one of them, called the Anjo Matsudaira Clan. They were also certainly Ieyasu’s relatives, but he trusted them less than the first group because they could be a competitor to him. As a result, they often had smaller territories which sometimes weren’t allowed to have their own castles because of the area criterion. The last group is those who didn’t have any blood relation with Ieyasu or other Shoguns, but were allowed to use Matsudaira for special reasons.

The ruins of Fukui Castle
Wakamatsu Castle

Norikata from Matsdaira Clans builds Castle

Norikata Matsudaira belonged to the Second group and his clan was also called the Ogyu Matsudaira Clan. Ogyu was the name of their original territory and has been used to identify them among many other Matsudaira Clans. In fact, the clan itself had several branch families because of its long history. Norikata was the lord of the Okutono Domain with an earning of only 16 thousand koku of rice, which meant he was not allowed to have a castle. In addition, his territory was divided into the smaller Okutono in Mikawa Province (now part of Aichi Pref.) and the larger Tatsuoka. His domain had been based in Okutono, so called the Okutono Domain, and the lords had lived in a hall, called the Okutono Camp.

The restored Okutono Camp (licensed by Bariston via Wikimedia Commons)

The situation changed after Japan opened the country to several Western countries in 1854. The shogunate relaxed the restrictions for the lords against the threats from these countries. Norikata was an excellent politician and he learned a lot about the Western items. He thought it was a good chance to do something using his knowledge to follow the government’s new policies. One of them was to move his home base to the larger Tatsuoka, and another was to build his own castle, called Tatsuoka Castle.

The location of the castle

Norikata’s attempts were allowed by the shogunate and the construction of the castle (officially it was still called a camp) started in 1864. The castle was designed to be a European style fort which had five bastions like a star. It came from Norikata’s ideas and was thought to be an effective way to protect it from enemies’ attacks from any directions. The five pointed star shape was all surrounded by advanced stone walls like the Tortoise Shell style and Hanedashi style (in which all the stones in the top row are so layered to prevent enemies from invading). It was expected that water moats were dug all around the castle and canons were placed inside all the bastions. There were the Main Hall for the lord and a parade ground inside. The castle was finally completed in 1866, following the first Pentagonal Style Fort known as Goryokaku in Hokkaido, which was completed back in 1864. Norikata was very pleased to see it, inviting local people to show it, then his domain would be re-considered the Tatsuoka Domain.

The ground plan of Tatsuoka Castle, from the signboard at the site
The stone walls of Tatsuoka Castle
Goryokaku in Hokkaido

Castle for Experiment

However, in fact, there were some disadvantages for the castle. First, Tatsuoka Castle was much smaller than Goryokaku. It was about 150m long, about half of Goryokaku at about 300m, so in terms of size, it was about one forth the size. The stone walls were 3.5m high and the moats were about 10m wide at most, which would be insufficient even in the Sengoku Period. The moats actually covered two thirds of the perimeter and only one bastion had a cannon. Moreover, the castle could be easily targeted by a cannon from a mountain, at about 500m away from it. What did the facts mean for the castle? Norikata probably meant the castle to not be used for a battle, but for authority of his government and an experiment of new technologies instead. The life of the castle only lasted a few years because of the Meiji Restoration.

The water moats of this castle is not so wide
The back side has no moats

The relief map around the castle

To be continued in “Tatsuoka Castle Part2”

129.龍岡城 その1

二番目の五稜郭

立地と歴史

将軍家の親族、松平家

龍岡城は、現在の長野県にあたる信濃国にありました。この城は江戸時代末期に築かれ、北海道の五稜郭とともに、日本で2つしかない星形城郭の一つとなります。この城を作ったのは、龍岡藩の藩主であった松平乗謨(まつだいらのりかた)です。実はこの時代には、徳川幕府将軍家の親族である、数多くの松平家が存在していました。「徳川」という苗字は、将軍になる資格がある数少ない家系にのみ使用が許されていました(いわゆる徳川宗家、御三家、御三卿)。それ以外の徳川の親族は「松平」と苗字を名乗りましたが、この苗字は初代将軍の家康が「徳川」を名乗り始めるまで、もともと使っていたものだったのです。

松平乗謨写真、明治時代  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

この松平家(氏)は大体のところ、3つに分類することができます。1つめのグループは、家康か他の将軍の子どもたちから由来するもので、例えば福井城にいた越前松平家や若松城にいた会津松平家がそれに当たります。彼らは将軍家からとても信頼されていて、多くは広大な領地や巨大な城を有していました。2つめのグループは、家康が生まれる前から存在していた家系で、十八松平とも称されます。実は家康も、このうちの一つ、安城松平家(あんじょうまつだいらけ)出身なのです。彼らも家康の親戚であることには変わらないのですが、家康にとっては競合する相手になりうる存在だったため、1つめのグループよりは信頼されていなかったようです。その結果、2つ目のグループの多くは領地が小さく、その規模の制限から城を持てないこともしばしばでした。最後のグループは、家康や他の将軍と直接の血のつながりはないが、特別な事情により松平姓の使用を許された人たちです。

福井城跡
若松城

松平家の一人、乗謨が築城

松平乗謨は、上記のうち2つ目のグループに属しており、彼の家系は大給松平氏(おぎゅうまつだいらし)とも呼ばれていました。大給は彼らの発祥の地であり、その地名が他の多くの松平氏と区別するためにも使われているのです。実は、大給松平氏自体も長い歴史のうちにいくつもの支流が生じていました。乗謨は、奥殿藩(おくとのはん)の藩主でしたが、藩の石高はわずか1万6千石であり、城を持つことは許されていませんでした。更には彼の領地は、三河国(現在の愛知県の一部)の奥殿の小さい領地と、龍岡の大きな領地に分割されていました。藩は奥殿を本拠地にしており、そのため奥殿藩と呼ばれていたのですが、藩主は奥殿陣屋と呼ばれた御殿に住んでいました。

復元された奥殿陣屋  (licensed by Bariston via Wikimedia Commons)

この状況は、日本がいくつかの西洋諸国に対して開国した1854年に変わりました。幕府はこれらの国からの脅威に対抗するため、大名たちへの規制を緩和したのです。乗謨は優れた政治家であり、多くの西洋の文物を学んでいました。彼はこの新状況を、幕府の新しい政策に従い、これまで学んだ知識を使って何かできるチャンスであると考えました。その一つが、本拠地を大きな方の領地である龍岡に移すことであり、もう一つが彼自身の城を築くことでした。それが龍岡城です。

城の位置

乗謨の試みは幕府に承認され、城の建設は1864年に始まりました(公式にはまだ陣屋ということにされました)。この城は西洋式城郭として設計され、星の形のように五つの稜堡(りょうほ)を備えていました。城の形は乗謨の構想に基いており、敵の攻撃がどの方向から来たとしても城を守れるように考えられました。この五芒星(ごぼうせい)の形をした城は、全て当時最新の石垣に囲まれており、亀甲積みや跳ね出し(一番上の列の石垣がはみ出して作られ、敵の侵入を防ぐもの)といった技術が採用されていました。また、水堀が城全体を囲んで掘られ、大砲が全ての稜堡の内側に設置される予定でした。城の内部には、領主のための御殿と練兵場がありました。城はついに1866年に完成し、これは1864年に北海道に築かれた最初の星形城郭として知られる五稜郭に次ぐものでした。乗謨は大変満足し、地元の民衆を招待し、城を見学させたりしました。そして、彼が藩主を務める藩の名前は、龍岡藩と改められました。

龍岡城の平面図、現地説明板より
龍岡城の石垣
北海道にある五稜郭

実験的要素が多い城

しかし、実際には城にはいつくもの弱点もありました。第一に、龍岡城は五稜郭よりもずっと小型でした。その全長は150m程で、約300mの五稜郭の約半分であり、面積では約4分の1でした。石垣の高さは3.5mで堀の幅は最大でも約10mでした。これでは戦国時代であっても不十分だったでしょう。堀は城の全周の3分の2しかカバーしておらず、大砲は1つの稜堡にしか設置されませんでした。その上にこの城は、城から約500m離れた山の上から大砲により容易に砲撃できる位置にあったのです。これらの事実をどう捉えればよいのでしょうか。恐らく乗謨は、この城を戦いにために使うことを想定しておらず、藩の権威を高めることや新技術を導入するための実験場として使ったものと思われます。その後すぐに明治維新を迎えたため、この城の歴史は数年で終わりました。

堀幅は大きくありません
裏側は堀なし

城周辺の起伏地図

「龍岡城その2」に続きます。

2.Goryokaku Part3

If the Benten Cape Battery remained…

Features

Goryokaku Tower

Apart from the ruins themselves, you should consider visiting Goryokaku Tower, a 107m tall observation platform built exclusively for viewing Goryokaku. Goryokaku was designed flat to prevent enemies’ canons from targeting anything, so today’s visitors might not be able to grasp its shape. If you go up in the elevator of the tower to its observation room at 90m high, you will enjoy a great view of the star shaped fort.

Goryokaku Tower
The miniature model of Goryokaku, exhibited in the tower
A view of Goryokaku from the observation room
Hakodate Mountain and the city area can also be seen from the observation room

Ruins of Square Style Fort

Another attraction related to Goryokaku is the ruins of Shiryokaku, the Square Style Fort, about 5km away from Goryokaku in the northeast. It is much smaller than Goryokaku, so you can see its unique structure once you arrive at the ruins.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the Square Style Fort Ruins
You can see the square shape when standing at the edge
The edge seemed to have a cannon

Later History

After the Battle of Hakodate ended, almost all the buildings of Goryokaku were demolished. The Imperial Japanese Army owned the ruins to use as a parade ground during the Meiji Era. In addition, the water in the moats was used to make ice blocks called Hakodate Ice between 1870 and 1953. This was because the water had been led from Kameda River and was clean since the foundation of Goryokaku. In 1913 during the Taisho Era, Hakodate City asked the Minister of the Army to open the ruins as a park, which was accepted in the next year.

The water moat was used to make ice blocks
Looking outside from the edge of a bastion

My Impression

I regret that there are no ruins of the Benten Cape Battery at all. It was completely scrapped and its stone materials were reused for the improvement of Hakodate Port in 1899. Only the signpost stands now where the battery was. If only a little of it remained like Shinagawa Batteries in Tokyo Bay, people could easily understand the sharing of roles between it and Goryokaku. Anyway, I hope Goryokaku will keep its unique position in the Japanese history with its unique style among Japanese castles.

The ruins of the Benten Cape Battery
The monument of the improvement of Hakodate Port
The stone materials from the Benten Cape Battery must hove been used somewhere in the port

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, It is about a 20-minute drive away from Hakodate Airport or the center of Hakodate City. From Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, it takes about 40 minutes to get there. There is a parking lot for visitors beside the park.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Tram Hakodate bound for Yunokawa from Hakodate Station and get off at the Goryokaku-koen-mae stop. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the stop to get there.
To get to Hakodate Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station and transfer to the Hakodate Line at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station.

Links and References

Official Website of Goryokaku Tower

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Goryokaku Part1”
Back to “Goryokaku Part2”