83.Uwajima Castle Part2

The Main Tower of peace time remains

Features

Entrance to Castle

Today, Uwajima Castle has few buildings, but including one of the twelve remaining Main Towers in Japan. The sea and water moats around the castle were removed and only the mountain parts remained. If you want to visit the castle from Uwajima Station, you can walk through the city area and enter the eastern side of the mountain beside the fire station. There was the Third Enclosure in the past. You will see a traditional building like the Main Gate at the entrance. It is actually the Nagaya-mon Gate of the house of the Kori Clan, a senior vassal of the Uwajima Domain, which was moved from another place in 1963.

The map around the castle

The entrance to the castle from Uwajima Station
The Nagaya-mon Gate of the house of the Kori Clan

Climbing up with Seeing Stone Walls

You can climb up to the top of the mountain through the zigzagged trail, seeing old stone walls which might have been built in Takatora’s period. You will first be the Well Enclosure on the way. This is one of the many small enclosures of the castle, which had not only a well but also a set of defense; a gate, turret and stone walls. If you go farther, you will be under the high stone walls of the Main Enclosure. You can see half of the stone was built using some old stones and you can also see the trace of some parts that were repaired. After that, you will reach the Main Enclosure, passing the Second Enclosure.

The stone walls along the trail
The Well Enclosure
The high stone walls of the Main Enclosure
The right side of the blue line was built using old stones, while the left side was repaired, from the signboard

Views from Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure originally had many buildings around the Main Tower which was the only thing that remained. You can enter the enclosure through the stone walls of the Kushigata-mon Gate. You can also enjoy views of the city area in the northeast and the Uwajima Bay in the northwest. In fact, the bay was beside the mountain, but the reclamation of the bay started in the Edo Period, probably it was reclaimed earlier than other castles.

The ruins of the Kushigata-mon Gate
The Main Enclosure
The past Main Enclosure drawn in the “Folding Screen of Illustration of Uwajima Castle and Town”, from the signboard
A view of Uwajima city area from the Main Enclosure
A view of Uwajima Bay from the Main Enclosure

Elegant Appearance of Main Tower

The highlight of the Main Enclosure is, of course, the Main Tower. The tower is not so large (15.7m high) compared with other remaining Main Towers in Japan. However, it looks very elegant with white plaster walls and lots of decorations. It has three levels with three roofs which all have a good design. The top roof has a Chinese styled gable. The second roof has a large triangular shaped gable, and the first roof has two smaller gables. In addition, the entrance of the first floor has another Chinese styled gable on its roof.

The Main Tower seen from below the high stone walls
The front side of the Main Tower
The right side of the Main Tower

To be continued in “Uwajima Castle Part3”
Back to “Uwajima Castle Part1”

83.宇和島城 その2

平和の時代の天守が健在です。

特徴、見どころ

城への入口

現在、宇和島城にはあまり多くの建物は残っていませんが、日本の現存12天守の内の一つがここにあります。城の周りの海や水堀は既になくなっていて、山の部分のみが残っています。もし宇和島駅から城の方へ行かれるのでしたら、市街地を通り過ぎて消防署の脇の山の東側から入っていきます。そこは、かつては三の丸でした。入口のところに、大手門のような古い建物が見えます。これは、実は宇和島藩の家老だった桑折(こおり)氏の長屋門だったものを1963年にこの地に移築したのです。

城周辺の地図

宇和島駅方面からの宇和島城への入口
桑折氏長屋門

石垣を見ながら登る

そこからは、高虎の時代に築かれたかもしれない古い石垣を見ながら、曲がりくねった山道を通って山の頂上の方に登っていきます。まずは、その途中にある井戸丸に着きます。この曲輪は、城にある多くの小さな曲輪の一つなのですが、井戸があるだけではなく、防御のための門、櫓、石垣が組み合わされていました。更に進んでいくと、本丸の高石垣の下に至ります。その石垣をよく見てみると、半分は古い石を使って築かれたままですが、他の箇所は修理された痕跡があります。その後、二の丸を通り過ぎて本丸に到着します。

山道沿いにある古い石垣
井戸丸
本丸の高石垣
青線の右側が古い石の部分、左側が修繕された部分、現地説明板より

本丸からの眺め

本丸にはもともと天守の周りに多くの建物があったのですが、今では天守だけが残っています。本丸には櫛形(くしがた)門跡の石垣を通って入っていきます。本丸からは、北東の方には市街地が、北西の方には宇和島湾の景色が見えます。実は、この湾は山の際まで迫っていたのですが、湾の埋め立ては江戸時代から始まりました。他の城の事例よりはずっと早い事だったと思われます。

櫛形門跡
本丸
「宇和島城下絵図屏風」に描かれたかつての本丸の姿、現地説明板より
本丸から見た宇和島市街
本丸から見た宇和島湾

優雅な姿の天守

本丸の見どころはもちろん天守です。この天守は、他の現存天守と比べると、それ程大きくはありません(高さ15.7m)。しかし、白い漆喰壁と多くの飾りによってとても優雅に見えます。天守は三階建てであり、三層の屋根はそれぞれよくデザインされています。最上階の屋根は唐破風となっています。そして二階の屋根には大型の千鳥破風があり、一階の屋根は2つの小振りの千鳥破風となっています。更には、一階への入口には、もう一つの唐破風が屋根に付いています。

高石垣下から見た天守
天守(正面)
天守(側面)

「宇和島城その3」に続きます。
「宇和島城その1」に戻ります。

83.Uwajima Castle Part1

Takatora Todo built and the Date Clan maintained the castle.

Location and History

Takatora Todo builds Castle

Uwajima Castle is located in Uwajima City in the southern part of Ehime Prefecture which was called Iyo Province in the past. The province was divided by many warlords during the Sengoku Period between the late 15th and 16th Century. The Saionji Clan lived in Itajima-Marugushi Castle on the mountain where Uwajima Castle would be built later. When Hideyoshi Toyotomi was processing his unification of Japan, Takatora Todo who served under Hideyoshi, became the lord of the southern Iyo in 1595. For Takatora, who would be known for a master of castle construction, that was the first time to be an independent lord. He chose the mountain, the former Itajima-Marugushi Castle as his home base, and started to build Uwajima Castle on it in 1596.

The range of Iyo Province and the location of Uwajima Castle

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Itajima-Maruguchi Castle had been a simple mountain castle. Takatora changed it to a modernized castle using advanced technology and his ideas. The mountain faced Uwajima Bay in the north and west, then he built moats filled with sea water also in the south and east. The line of the seaside and moats were shaped like a pentagon, which might have made enemies upset when they would attack the castle. He also built stone walls like covering the mountain, and some castle entrances using Masugata style which had a square space to prevent enemies’ attack. Moreover, the three-leveled Main Tower was built on natural rocks at the top. The castle construction was completed in 1601.

The illustration of Uwajima Castle and Town in 1703, owned by Uwajima Date Bunka Hozonkai, from the signboard

On the other hand, the castle had many small enclosures on the mountain, such as Main, Second, Third, and Nagato-maru. This is one of the features old mountain castles including Itajima-Marugushi Castle had, which Uwashima Castle had to follow. The Main Tower, which was built using waste materials, became too old about 60 years after completion. According to Takatora’s biography, the Main Tower of Kagomori Castle, a branch castle of Takatora’s territory, was moved to Uwajima Castle in 1604 and used as a turret. Considering these situations, Takatora might not have had enough resources to complete his ideal castle. He eventually moved to Imabari Castle in his new territory in 1600.

The location map of the gathered enclosures around the mountain, from the signboard adding comments by myself
The ruins of Kagomori Castle

Main Tower is replaced

In 1614, the Date Clan became the lord of Uwajima Castle and the Uwajima Domain until the end of the Edo Period. The second lord, Munetoshi Date renovated the castle in the 1660s because of aging and the damage from an earthquake. In particular, the Main Tower was replaced completely with a new one. The new Main Tower had three levels same as the old one, but its appearance was very different. The old one was the lookout-tower type, while the new one was the multi-storied type. However, the most important point of the new one is that it was built in the peace time. It was built on the stone wall base at the center of the Main Enclosure independently, not connected to other buildings. It had many decorations just for appearance, and had few equipment for battles. Overall, it has often been called “Main Tower for the symbol of peace time”, which we can now see.

The old tower on the right and the new tower on the left, from the signboard
The remaining Main Tower of Uwajima Castle

Many talented people together in Uwajima

The eighth lord, Munenari Date was very active in Japanese politics at the end of the Edo Period. With the arrivals of strong Western steam warships to Japan, which was a treat to the country, Munenari tried to build his domain’s own steamship. He invited people with unusual power to achieve this, such as Zoroku Murata, a doctor who would be the leader of the first Japanese Army, Choei Takano, another doctor, who were running away from the Tokugawa Shogunate, and low-class craftsmen. He finally succeeded. He might have thought Uwajima Castle was not suitable in that situation and create the steamship like a moving castle to deal with the new situation.

The photo of Munenari Date, from a Japanese book “徳川慶喜公伝” (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Zoroku Murata from a Japanese book called Kinsei Meishi Shashin vol.2 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Choei Takano, owned by Choei Takano Memorial Hall (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Uwajima Castle Part2”