142.Naegi Castle Part1

A rare castle which was built and maintained on the rocky mountain

Location and History

Castle monitoring Nakasendo Road

The Nakasendo Road is known for being one of the major roads in Japan and was designated as one of the Five Major Roads in the Edo Period. In particular, the road was the most useful one when large amount of troops moved between western and eastern Japan before the period. The area of what is now Nakatsugawa City in the eastern part of Gifu Prefecture had Nakatsugawa Post Town in a basin at the center with the road going to mountain areas in the east. That’s why the warlords in the Sengoku Period wanted to own the area to monitor this important spot on the road. Naegi Castle was built on Takamori Mountain beside Kiso River which was sandwiched by the castle and the town. That meant the castle was the most suitable for monitoring what happened on Nakasendo Road.

The location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

”Nakatsugawa” from the series “Kiso-kaido Road” attributed to Hiroshige Utagawa in the Edo Period (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Toyama Clan builds and somehow maintains Castle till end

In the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, The Toyama Clan was one of the local warlord families in the area, which was called the eastern Mino Province. It is said that the clan first built the castle in the first part of the16th Century as a branch castle of their home base, Iwamura Castle. However, the clan was affected by other larger warlords such as the Takeda and Oda Clans which also wanted to own the area. For example, both the Takeda and Oda Clans battled each other between 1572 and 1582, gaining and losing this castle.

The ruins of Iwamura Castle
The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, the lord of the clan at that time, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

After the declines of both, the Mori Clan, under the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi captured the castle. Tomomasa Toyama, with his father Tomotada, the lord of the castle at that time, had to escape from the castle to Ieyasu Tokugawa at Hamamatsu Castle. In 1600 when the Battle of Sekigawara occurred, Tomomasa succeeded in getting Naegi Castle back with Ieyasu’s approval. After Ieyasu established the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Toyama Clan governed the castle again as the Naegi Domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The present Hamamatsu Castle
The portrait of Tomomasa Toyama, the founder of the Naegi Domain, owned by Naegi Toyama Historical Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle on Rocky Mountain, Main Tower on Huge Rock

Naegi Castle had a very special location as far as permanent castles in Japan go. The mountain the castle is located on has a rocky terrain and steep cliffs. It was good for the defenders to make very difficult to attack, but if the lord of the castle wanted to develop it, there would be few spaces to do so. Generally, buildings or inter routes of castles were built on stone walls surrounding natural terrain or stone wall bases at that time. However, in the case of Naegi Castle, it was difficult to cut the rocky surface for buildings or routes. As a result, they were built on bases mixed with natural rocks and stone walls or filled valleys. Even if more buildings were needed, they were built on natural rocks directly. For example, the Main Tower of the castle was built on the huge rock on the top of the mountain.

The base of the Large Turret of Naegi Castle, which is mixed with natural rocks and stone walls
The huge rock as the base of the Main Tower of Naegi Castle

Traditionally, when Japanese people wanted to build a building on natural rocks, they used a method called Kake-zukuri. The method is to build the foundation by combining many columns and horizontal beams like lattices on a steep rock or cliff. Buildings using this method have still been seen in some old shrines and temples like Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. It is said the reason for using this method is that the mountains themselves, which have the rocks or cliffs, are the objects of worship. When many castles were built during the Sengoku and the first part of the Edo Period, the method was applied to castles. Naegi Castle is a good example, and another case in Sendai Castle is known.

The Main Hall of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, built using the Kake-zukuri method
The ruins of Sendai Castle

The Naegi Domain earned only 10 thousand koku of rice which was a minimum amount for an independent lord. Because of this, their castle buildings had wood shingle roofing and wood siding or mud walls, not roof tiles and plaster walls which were too expensive for them. However, they built and maintained these buildings under such severe conditions even during the long lasting peace of the Edo Period. This was because staying there to be ready for any emergency was their most important duty.

The imaginary drawing of Naegi Castle, from the signboard at the site

To be continued in “Naegi Castle Part2”

142.苗木城 その1

岩山の上に築かれ、維持された珍しい城

立地と歴史

中山道を見張る城

中山道は日本の主要街道の一つであり、江戸時代には五街道の一つに指定されていました。特に江戸時代以前には、中山道は西日本と東日本の間に大軍を移動させるのにはもっとも便利なルートでした。現在中津川市となっている岐阜県東部の地域には、盆地の中心部に中津川宿があり、そこから街道が東側の山間部に向かっていました。そのため戦国時代の大名は、この街道の重要地点を監視するためにこの地域を手に入れたがっていました。苗木城は、木曽川沿いにある高森山に築かれ、川を挟んで宿場とは反対側にありました。つまり、この城は中山道で何が起こったのか見張るためには絶好な位置にあったのです。

城の位置

城周辺の起伏地図

歌川広重「木曽街道」より「 中津川」 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

遠山氏が築き、何とか最後まで維持

戦国時代の16世紀、遠山氏は東美濃と呼ばれた地域における地方領主の一つでした。彼らは岩村城を本拠地としていましたが、16世紀の初頭に支城として苗木城を築いたと言われています。しかし遠山氏は、武田氏や織田氏のような他のより有力な戦国大名からの影響を受けていました(両方にうまく従うか、どちらかの勢力下に入るかせざるを得なかったのです)。彼らもこの地域を領有したがっていたからです。例えば、武田、織田の両氏が1572年から1582年の間戦っているとき、この城は取ったり取られたりしていました。

岩村城跡
当時の武田氏当主、武田勝頼肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
当時の織田氏当主、織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

両氏が没落した後は、豊臣秀吉配下の森氏がこの城を占拠しました。その当時の城主だった遠山友忠(ともただ)・友政(ともまさ)父子は、浜松城にいた徳川家康のもとに退避せざるを得ませんでした。関ヶ原の戦いが起こった1600年、彼らは家康の承認を得たうえで苗木城の奪還に成功します。家康が徳川幕府を設立した後は、遠山氏はこの城を苗木藩として江戸時代の終わりまで統治しました。

現在の浜松城
苗木藩初代藩主となった遠山友政肖像画、中津川市苗木遠山史料館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

岩山に築かれた城、巨石の上の天守

苗木城は、日本の常設の城としてはとても特殊な立地にありました。城が築かれた山は岩山であり、急崖に囲まれていました。この立地は守備兵にとってはありがたく、攻撃するのはとても難しいです。しかし城主が城を拡張しようと思ってもそのための余地はとても少ないということにもなります。当時は、城の建物や内部の通路は、自然の地形を石垣で囲んだ上か、石垣台の上に築くのが一般的でした。しかし苗木城の場合には、建物や通路のために岩の表面を削ったりするのは困難でした。よって、自然の岩と石垣を組み合わせた台の上か、谷を埋めた上に築かれました。更に建物が必要な場合は、自然石の上に直接築かれたりしました。例えば、苗木城の天守は、山の頂上にある巨石の上に築かれました。

自然の岩と石垣が組み合わされた苗木城大矢倉の台座
苗木城天守台となった巨石

伝統的に、日本の人たちが自然石の上に建物を築こうとする場合には、懸け造りという工法を採用しました。これは岩か崖の急斜面に、多くの柱や梁を組み合わせて格子のようにした基礎を築くというものです。この工法を使った建物は、京都の清水寺のように、今でも古い神社や寺で見ることができます。この工法が使われた理由は、これらの建物が築かれた岩や崖がある山自体が、信仰の対象だったからと言われています。多くの城が築かれた戦国時代や江戸時代初期には、この工法が城にも応用されたのです。苗木城はこの好例でしょう。他には仙台城でのケースが知られています。

懸け造りの清水寺本堂 (licensed by Kakidai via Wikimedia Commons)
仙台城跡

苗木藩は1万石の石高しかなく、これは独立した大名としては最低限のものでした。そのため、城の建物は板葺きで、板壁か土塀が使われていました。瓦葺きや漆喰塀などはとても高価で使えなかったのです。しかしそれでも彼らは、平和であった長い江戸時代の間じゅう、厳しい状況下で建物を維持し続けたのです。それはどのような非常事態にも備えるため、そこにいることが最大任務だったからです。

苗木城想像図、現地説明板より

「苗木城その2」に続きます。

141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part3

The oldest wooden rebuilt Main Tower

Features

Pine Enclosure and Back in Castle

Other than the Main Tower, you can visit the neighboring Pine Enclosure through the path on the upper tier of the Belt Enclosures. There is a monument of the Ryosotai Party which escaped the Gujo Domain which supported the New Government during the Meiji Restoration. They joined the domains supporting the shogunate and fought against the New Government Army located Wakamatsu Castle.

The upper tier Belt Enclosure as the path connecting the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure
Going to the Pine Enclosure through the upper tier Belt Enclosure
The inside of the Pine Enclosure
The monument of the Ryosotai Party

The parking on the top was one of the ditches behind the castle where most of the fierce fightings happened in 1600. There is a well in the ruins, which was said to have been used to wash the head of slain warriors in battle.

The parking lot on the top
The ruins of the well for washing the head

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Gujo-Hachiman Castle was eventually abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. In 1932, the mayor, Chuhei Nakagami suggested the Main Tower be rebuilt in order to revitalize the town. Other people agreed with him and began making donations. The tower was constructed using the external design plans of Ogaki Castle whose Main Tower remained at that time, however it would be burned down by an air raid in 1945. People also considered how the tower would have looked like when they look up at it from the town. The rebuilt tower was finally completed in 1933.

The old photo of Ogaki Castle, the Main Tower on the right (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The rebuilt Main Tower of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

My Impression

When I visited Gujo-Hachiman town, I thought the purpose of the town was to successfully built a beautiful castle as its symbol. You can see a good view of the Main Tower from any parts of the town. I also finally understood that no matter weather the original tower was there or not, the castle is still very important and much needed by the people of the town.

A view of the Main Tower from the town
Stone walls of the Belt Enclosures
A view from the Main Tower

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Gujo-Hachiman IC on the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway. There are several parking lots for visitors aroud the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the Gujo-Hachiman Jokamachi Plaza.
To get to the plaza from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, transfer to Tokaido Local Line at Nagoya Station and get off at Gifu Station. Then, take the Gifu bus on the highway Hachiman line and get off at the Jokamachi Plaza bus stop.

The parling lot at the foot of the mountain
The parking lot at halfway up

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1”
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