141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1

The castle in a small town had a hard history.

Location and History

Endo Clan first builds it as Stronghold for battle

Gujo-Hachiman town is well known for its attractions such as an old street atmosphere, the beauties of nature, and the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the summer. It was originally the castle town of Gujo-Hachiman Castle which was first built on Ushikubi-yama Mountain back in 1559. At that time during the Sengoku Period, almost all the people in Japan had to protect themselves and govern their communities all by themselves. In a small region called Gujo District in the northern mountain part of Mino Province, which is now the modern day Gujo City in Gifu Prefecture, the Endo and Tou Clans battled each other over the district. Eventually, the Endo Clan would win and their stronghold for the battle directly became Gujo-Hchiman Castle. The name “Hachiman” originates from a shrine’s name which the clan established at the foot of the mountain. The castle was said to be a simple mountain castle made of soil.

Gujo-Hachiman town with the beauties of nature

The location of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

Yoshitaka Endo, the lord of the castle in the late 16th Century, had to work under other greater warlords in the Chubu Region, such as the Saito Clan and the Oda Clan. This was because lords of small regions did not power, therefore, needed to be guaranteed by great warlords in order to maintain their territories. On the other hand, they also needed to find out the next leader whom they would be working under. In the case of Yoshitaka, he supported Nobutaka Oda in Gifu Castle, who fought against Hideyoshi Toyotomi and was defeated in 1583. Unfortunately, he made a bad choice and surrendered to Hideyoshi. He was once overlooked, however he was eventually transferred from the lord of Gujo-Hachiman Castle to a much smaller territory by Hideyoshi in 1588.

The family crest of the Endo Clan, called Kikko ni Hanabishi or A diamond shaped flower in a tortoise shell  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Inaba Clan’s Modernization and Endo Clan’s revenge

After that, Sadamichi Inaba became the lord of the Gujo-Hachiman Castle and started to renovate and modernize the castle by building stone walls around the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain. The enclosure had the stone wall base for a Main Tower on it, but it was uncertain weather or not the Main Tower was built. It was also surrounded by the Belt Enclosures with tripled stone walls. Moreover, the back of the Main Enclosure which was the part connecting to other mountains was separated by doubled deep ditches. Gujo-Hachiman Castle became a strong castle protected not only by natural terrain but also by the advanced structures.

The portrait of Sadamichi Inaba, owned by Gekkeiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

On the other hand, Yoshitaka Endo was waiting to recover. The chance to recover came in 1600 when the battle of Sekigahara would take place. He found out that Sadamichi Inaba supported the Western squad, therfore, he decided to join the Eastern squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa. He began attacking Gujo-Hachiman Castle after Ieyasu’s approval in advance of Sekigahara. Both troops by Yoshitaka and Sadamichi fought a hard battle, especially in the back of the Main Enclosure. The castle survived most lilely because it got much stronger than Yoshitaka underestimated the strength of the castle. However, Yoshitaka eventually got the castle back in the end as the Eastern squad was victorious in the Battle of Sekigahara. Yoshitaka became the founder of the Gujo Domain under the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The picture of the battle at Gujo-Hachiman Castle in 1600, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

Gujo uprising before Government by Aoyama Clan

A big incident happened in the Gujo Domain, which was called the Gujo uprising, in 1758 when the Kanamori Clan governed following the Endo and Inoue Clans. Yorikane Kanamori was the lord of the domain and had an important role for the shogunate which cost a lot of money. Unfortunatelly, his domain was relatively small and had lower income than what he needed. Therefore, he decided to raise the tax rate by changing how to estimate the amount of harvested rice with the cooperation from some high class officers of the shogunate. This made farmers in the domain very angry, together in the rice warehouse at the foot of the mountain. They submitted a petition asking not to raise the tax. However, the domain refused this petition. So then the farmers brought this action in the lord in Edo, a member of shogun’s council of elders, and finally the shogun itself. This incident resulted in many farmers being executed, some shogunate officers were also displaced, and the Kanamori Clan were fired from the lord of the Gujo Domain.

The family crest of the Kanamori Clan, called Ura Umebachi or Back of a plum flower inside pots (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The monument of the Gujo uprising (licensed by のりまき via Wikimedia Commons)

The Aoyama Clan followed the lord of the domain caring for farmers so that another incident would not happen. The clan also allowed people to dance in the town freely, which was said to be the origin of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival. As for the Gujo-Hachiman Castle, the clan moved the center of the castle from the top of the mountain to the Second Enclosure at the foot, where the Main Hall was. This was a typical way for the lords in the Edo Period to govern their domain in the peaceful time. As a result, the Second Enclosure was turned into the Main Enclosure. The former Main Enclosure was then divided into the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure.

The family crest of the Aoyama Clan, called Aoyama Zeni or The Aoyama coin (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
The statues of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the town
The miniature model of Gujo-Hachiman Castle and its castle town in the Edo Period, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

To be continued in “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part2”

141.郡上八幡城 その1

小さな町にある城ですが、苦難の歴史がありました。

立地と歴史

遠藤氏が戦の本陣として築城

郡上八幡は、古い町並みや自然の美しさ、夏には郡上おどりが開催されることにより観光地としてよく知られています。この街はもともと郡上八幡城の城下町であり、この城は最初1559年に牛首山という山に築かれました。戦国時代の間、日本のほとんどの人々は自らの力で身を守り、コミュニティを運営していかなければなりませんでした。現在の岐阜県の郡上市に当たる、かつて美濃国郡上郡と呼ばれたこの小さな地域でも事情は同じでした。この地域では、遠藤氏と東(とう)氏が覇権を争っていました。やがて遠藤氏が勝利を収めますが、その戦いで本陣として使われた場所がそのまま郡上八幡城となりました。城の名前にある「八幡」は、遠藤氏が山麓に勧請した神社の名前に由来します(現在も同じ場所に八幡神社があります)。この頃の城は、単純な土造りの山城だったと言われています。

郡上八幡の自然と一体化した街並み

郡上八幡城の位置

16世紀後半の城主であった遠藤慶隆(よしたか)は、斎藤氏や織田氏など中部地方の有力な大名の下で働かなければなりませんでした。小さな地域の領主は単独では力不足のため、その領土を維持するためには、より有力な大名から保障してもらう必要があったからです。一方、将来働くに足る次のリーダーを見極める必要もありました。慶隆の場合1583年に、岐阜城にいた織田信孝に味方して豊臣秀吉と戦ったのですが敗れてしまいます。残念ながら彼は間違った選択をしたことになりますが、秀吉に降伏し、このときは大目に見られました。しかし、やがて慶隆は1588年に秀吉により、郡上八幡城城主からかなり小さな領地に左遷されてしまったのです。

遠藤氏の家紋、亀甲に花菱  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

稲葉氏による城の近代化と遠藤氏の巻き返し

その後、稲葉貞通が郡上八幡城主となり、山頂にあった本丸周辺に石垣を築き、城の大改修と近代化を開始しました。本丸には天守台石垣も作られたのですが、天守が実際に築かれたかどうかはわかっていません。また本丸は、腰曲輪と三重の石垣によって囲まれました。その上に、本丸の背後の他の山に連なっている部分は、深い堀切により二重に遮断されました。郡上八幡城は、自然の地形だけでなく、先進的な構造によっても守られる強力な城となったのです。

稲葉貞道肖像画、月桂寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

一方、遠藤慶隆も捲土重来の時期を伺っていました。その時は、1600年に関ケ原の戦いが起ころうとしていた頃にやってきました。彼は、稲葉貞通が西軍に味方したことを知ると、徳川家康率いる東軍に加わることにしました。彼は、関ケ原に先駆けて家康の了承を得たうえで、郡上八幡城への攻撃を開始しました(八幡城の戦い)。慶隆と貞通の両軍は激戦を繰り広げ、特に本丸背後での戦いは熾烈でした。恐らくは慶隆が(自分が元いた城であり)過小評価していたよりずっと強化されていたため、城は持ちこたえました。しかし、関ケ原の戦いで東軍が勝利したため、慶隆は最終的には城を取り返すことができたのです(稲葉貞通も東軍に寝返ったのですが、九州の臼杵城に転封となりました)。慶隆は徳川幕府の下、初代郡上藩藩主となりました。

「八幡城の戦い」を描いた絵画、郡上八幡城天守内で展示

郡上一揆とその後の青山氏の統治

その郡上藩で1758年、郡上一揆として知られる大事件が起こります。そのときは、遠藤氏と井上氏の後を継いで金森氏が統治していました。金森頼錦(かなもりよりかね)は藩主であると同時に幕府の重要な役職(奏者番)を兼ねており、多額の経費が必要でした。しかし残念なことに郡上藩は小藩であり、必要な収入を得られませんでした。そこで彼は、幕府の高官の協力のもと、年貢の徴収法を(定免方から検見法に)改めることで税収の増加を図りました。この決定に、藩の農民たちは怒り、山麓にあった米の収蔵庫(御蔵会所)の所に集まります。彼らは藩に対して増税を取りやめるよう請願(強訴)しますが、拒絶されました。そこで、農民たちは江戸藩邸(出訴)、幕府老中(駕籠訴)、そしてついには将軍(目安箱投函による箱訴)への訴えにまで及びました。この事件により、多くの農民たちが処刑され、幕府役人が罷免され、そして金森氏は郡上八幡城主から改易となりました。

金森氏の家紋、裏梅鉢 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
郡上義民顕彰碑 (licensed by のりまき via Wikimedia Commons)

その後は青山氏が藩主となりましたが、同様の事件が起こらないよう農民たちには気を使いました。また、人々が町中で自由に踊ることを許し、これが郡上おどりの起源になったと言われています。郡上八幡城に関しては、青山氏は城の中心地を山の上から山麓にある二の丸に移し、御殿を建てました。これは、平和な時代に藩を統治した江戸時代の領主の典型的なやり方です。その二の丸は、本丸と呼ばれるようになり、以前本丸だったところは、桜の丸と松の丸の二つに分けられました。

青山氏の家紋、青山銭 (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
街中にある郡上おどりの像
江戸時代の郡上八幡城と城下町の模型、郡上八幡城天守内で展示

「郡上八幡城その2」に続きます。

148.Hamamatsu Castle Part3

The castle still has many mysteries.

Features

Around Castle

The map around the castle

If you have more time, how about visiting the ruins of Hikema Castle which now becomes a Toshogu Shrine. You can see a view and good location of the present Hamamatsu Castle in the distance.

The ruins of Hikema Castle
The Toshogu Shrine

I also recommend visiting ruins regarding the Battle of Mikatagahara such as Saigagake valley. You can still see the deep valley at 13m, which was originally about 40 m. There is the Saigagake Museum beside the valley, where you can learn Ieyasu’s life.

The present Saigagake Valley
The diorama of Ieyasu going to the battlefield. exhibited by the Saigagake Museum

There is also the monument of the battle, about 10km north from the museum.

the monument of the Battle OF Mikatagahara

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hamamatsu Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. The Many parts of the castle were turned into a city area and only the central part remained as an observation platform. After World War II, Hamamatsu City bought and opened it as Hamamatsu Castle Park. The city is considering restoring the past castle.

The rebuilt Main Tower
The restored Main Tower Gate

My Impression

I once thought the remaining stone walls of Hamamatsu Castle were built by Ieyasu. However, I learned that the legacies of the castle come from many clans and periods. I also learned that the castle still has a lot of mysteries. I hope that these mysteries will be solved one by one through the excavation and studies in the future.

The remaining stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure
The rebuilt Main Tower seen over the stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 30 minutes away from Hamamatsu IC on the Tomei Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the JR Hamamatsu Station.
To get to Hamamatsu Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express.

Links and References

Hamamatsu Castle Park

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part1”
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part2”