37.Ichijodani Castle Part1

The castle started and ended with the Asakura Clan.

Location and History

Integration of Castle and Castle Town

Ichijodani Castle was located in Echizen Province (now Fukui Prefecture) which the Asakura Clan governed during the Sengoku Period. People usually consider this castle as a fortified city the Asakura Clan built. The city was integrated with a castle and castle town parts. Because of that, people at that time called the castle, just “Ichijodani”. People in the present time call it the Ichijodani Aasakura Clan Ruins.

The location of the castle

The Asakura Clan originally served the Shiba Clan, the family of the governor of Echizen Provence. Takakage Asakura was distinguished in the Onin War in Kyoto in the late 15th Century to support the Ashikaga Shogunate. As a result, the Shogunate assigned him the governor of Echizen Provence instead of the Shiba Clan. After that, the Asakura Clan governed the province over five generations for about 100 years. The clan chose a long narrow valley called Ichijodani as their home base, not the flat area called Fuchu which the Shiba Clan lived. The reason for the Aasakura Clan’s choice is thought that the clan had to continue fighting with the Shiba Clan and others like the Ikkoshu Sect.

The portrait of Takakage Asakura, owned by Shingetsuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The relief map around the castle

The valley was about 3km long from the north to the south, and about 500m wide. It was protected by several mountain castles on the mountains in the eastern and western side of the valley. “Ichijo-dani Castle” was one such castle but provided a limited amount of protection. Both edges of the valley also had fortress entrances built using earthen walls and water moats called the Inbound Fortress Entrance and Outbound Fortress Entrance. The area between the entrances, where Ichijo-dani River flowed, was called the Inside of the Entrances. The castle town was built along the narrow area, including the Asakura Clan Hall, the warriors’ houses, the merchants and craftsmen area, and temples.

The entrance to “Ichijo-dani Castle” as a mountain castle
The Inbound Fortress Entrance
The Outbound Fortress Entrance
The miniature model of the castle town, exhibited by the Restored Town area

One of Largest City in Sengoku Period

Ichijodani greatly prospered. Echizen Province was basically wealthy and the Asakura Clan earned lots of profits from trading by ships. The clan also united with their relatives and retainers to prevent enemies, like the Ikkoshu Sect, from invading their territory. These made the people in Ichijodani rich. The hall of the clan was very similar to that of the shogun’s deputy in Kyoto and had a gorgeous Japanese garden. The clan accommodated many nobles, high priests, and intellectuals from Kyoto, which was devastated after the Onin War. Warriors played Japanese chess inside their houses and priests enjoyed tea ceremonies. Trading and production were actively done in the town. The population of Ichijo-dani was said to reach about 10,000. The city became one of the largest cities in Japan, sometimes called a Little Kyoto.

The miniature model of the Asakura Clan Hall, from the signboard at the site
The gate of the Asakura Clan Hall Ruins

Destroyed by Nobunaga Oda

In 1567, Yoshiaki Ashikaga, who would be the last shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate, visited Yoshikage Asakura, the last lord of the clan, in Ichijodani. Yoshiaki asked Yoshikage to take Yoshiaki to Kyoto and defeat his enemies. Yoshikage rejected it, so Yoshiaki left Ichijodani and visited Nobunaga Oda in Owari Province (now part of Aichi Pref.). Nobunaga went to Kyoto with Yoshiaki who became the shogun in 1568. They ordered Yoshikage to go to Kyoto and serve them. Yoshikage rejected it again and finally became an enemy of the shogun in 1570. Nobunaga and Yoshikage fought against each other for three years. The unity of the Asakura Clan collapsed after the long battle. Yoshikage had to escape from Ichijo-dani and was defeated in the end. Nobunaga’s soldiers attacked Ichijodani without its master. The city burned for three days and ended its history in 1573. The castle was destroyed.

The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Yoshikage Asakura, owned by Shingetsuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Ichijodani Castle Part2”

138.Echizen-Ohno Castle Part3

Will you be able to see the castle in the sky?

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, all the buildings of Echizen-Ohno Castle were demolished. The mountain of the castle was turned into Kameyama Park. After World War II, some castle buildings including Tenshu were rebuilt.

The rebuilt Main Tower on the stone walls at Kameyama Park

Ohno City, which now owns the castle, promotes it as “Castle in the Sky” like Takeda Castle. The meaning of Castle in the Sky is when clouds spread below the mountain, the castle on the mountain looks like its floating in the sky. If this happens while you are at Echizen-Ohno Castle, you can take a photo of the castle in the sky from Inuyama Mountain where you can see the whole view of the castle. The city also says this situation is most likely to occur in October and November. However, according to the records, the chance to see the castle in the sky happens about 10 days per a year.

The “Castle in the Sky” can be seen at Echizen-Ohno Castle (licensed by Keisuke MAEDA via Wikimedia Commons)
The “Castle in the Sky” can be seen at Takeda Castle (licensed by abok via Wikimedia Commons)

My Impression

I visited Echizen-Ohno Castle to see the castle in the sky on a day in November. The castle was open from early in the morning during the month to make it possible for visitors to see if the castle in the sky situation happens.

The entrance of the Southern Route in the early morning

When I looked up from the top floor of the Tenshu building, the sky around the castle was very clear. Inuyama Mountain, from which you could see the castle in the sky, was rather cloudy. I realized that staying just one night is not enough. Even if the weather conditions for the castle in the sky are ideal, you cannot always see it. You may need to spend several days to see it.

The sky around the castle was very clear
Inuyama Mountain was rather cloudy

If you stay for only one night in the town, you can at least take a beautiful photo of the illuminated Echizen-Ohno Castle.

The illuminated Echizen-Ohno Castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 30 minutes away from Fukui IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
There is a parking lot near the entrance of the Southern Route to the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 40 minutes walking from JR Echizen-Ohno Station.
To get to Echizen-Ohno Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the limited express on the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station, and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.

Links and References

Echizen Ohno Castle Official Site

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Echizen-Ohno Castle Part1”
Back to “Echizen-Ohno Castle Part2”

138.越前大野城 その3

天空の城を見ることはできるでしょうか。

その後

明治維新後、越前大野城の全ての建物は撤去されました。城があった山は亀山公園となりました。第二次世界大戦後、天守を含む城の建物がいくつか再建されました。

亀山公園にある復興天守と石垣

現在この城を所有している大野市はこの城を、竹田城のように、「天空の城」として宣伝しています。天空の城とは、山の下の方に雲が広がったとき、山の上にある城が雲に浮かんでいるようにみえることを言います。越前大野城に来ているときにその現象が起これば、城全体を見渡すことができる戌山に行けば、そこから天空の城の写真を撮ることができます。大野市の情報では、天空の城は10月と11月に一番よく現れるとのことです。しかし、これまでの実績によると、天空の城を見ることができるのは、1年に約10日間しかありません。

越前大野城で見ることができる「天空の城」  (licensed by Keisuke MAEDA via Wikimedia Commons)
竹田城で見ることができる「天空の城」 (licensed by abok via Wikimedia Commons)

私の感想

私は、11月のある日、天空の城を見るために越前大野城を訪れました。この月は、天空の城の現象が起こっているかどうか確認できるように、城は早朝から開いていました。

早朝の南登り口の入口

天守の建物の最上階から見てみましたが、城周辺の空は晴れ渡っていました。天空の城を観察できるという戌山の方がむしろ雲がかかっていました。一泊だけの滞在ではとても不十分とそのとき思いました。天空の城が現れるための気象条件が揃ったとしても、いつもそれを見れるとは限りません。何日も逗留しないといけないかもしれません。

城の周りは晴れ渡っていました
戌山にかかる雲

但し、もしこの町に一泊だけしかできないとしても、ライトアップされた美しい越前大野城の写真を撮ることはできます。

ライトアップされた越前大野城

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:
北陸自動車道の福井ICから約30分かかります。
城に向かう南登り口の入口近くに駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR越前大野駅から歩いて約40分かかります。
東京から越前大野駅まで:北陸新幹線に乗り、金沢駅で北陸線の特急に乗り換え、福井駅でまた九頭竜線に乗り換えてください。
大阪から:特急サンダーバード号に乗り、福井駅で九頭竜線に乗り換えて下さい。

リンク、参考情報

天空の城 越前大野城
・「歴史群像165号、戦国の城 越前大野城」学研
・「よみがえる日本の城8」学研

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「越前大野城その1」に戻ります。
「越前大野城その2」に戻ります。