15.足利氏館 その1

足利氏の本拠地

立地と歴史

源氏の一族が足利荘を開発し定住

足利氏館は、現在の栃木県足利市の中心部に位置していました。実は、その場所は現在では鑁阿寺(ばんなじ)という有名なお寺になっています。そのため、私たちが通常想像する典型的な城のようには見えないかもしれませんが、この館跡は防御機能を伴った日本の武士の館の、初期の形態を残しているとされています。

鑁阿寺楼門(山門)

足利氏は、地方領主としてより、14世紀から15世紀の室町時代の足利幕府の将軍家としての存在の方がずっと知られているでしょう。しかし事実として足利氏の歴史は、12世紀に下野国(現在の栃木県)で足利荘(ほぼ現在の足利市に相当)を開発したときから始まりました。皇室の子孫で清和源氏の足利義国が、最初にその場所に定住し、足利氏の祖先となりました。

足利市の範囲と城の位置

鎌倉幕府が設立される前は、武士たちは自身で開発した土地を維持するためには、形式的に荘園として高位の貴族に寄付する必要がありました。そうでなければ、公的機関から領地を保証されることは一切なかったのです。そのために義国は足利荘となる地に定住し、大変な労力を投じて開発を進めました。それ以来、この一族は自身の苗字として、その地の名前である足利を名乗ったのです。義国の息子、足利義康は足利氏の創始者であり、最初に足利氏館を築いたと言われています。そして、館はその息子で2代目の義兼に引き継がれました。

伝・足利義兼肖像画、鑁阿寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

初期の武士の館の典型

館の特徴として挙げられるのは、そのエリアを囲む土塁とその外側の水堀でしょう。こられにより館の敷地は四角形に区切られ、歴史家はこのような典型的な武士の館を「方館(ほうかん)」と呼びならわしています。その四角形の一辺は約200mで、この館の形式は戦国時代の17世紀まで長い間踏襲されました。その類型として、武田氏館大内氏館などがあります。領主や武士たちは普段このような館に住み、戦のような緊急事態にも対処できるようにしていました。したがって、足利氏館は武士が建てた最も初期の日本の城の一つとみなされています。

足利氏館跡(現鑁阿寺)を囲む土塁と水堀
武田氏館の模型、甲府市藤村記念館にて展示
大内氏館跡(現・龍福寺)

義兼は12世紀末に。源氏の棟梁であり日本の武家政権で最初の将軍となった源頼朝による鎌倉幕府の設立に、頼朝の親族として貢献しました。義兼はまた信仰心が深く、館の中に持仏堂を建立し、仏画を掲げて祈りを捧げました。これが鑁阿寺の起源となります。更には、彼は隠居所として樺崎寺を建て、また足利学校の設立者の一人とも言われています。足利学校は、日本中世の最高学府の一つとなりました。これらにより、足利は中世における一大文化都市となったのです。

樺崎寺跡
現存する足利学校の「学校門」

足利氏は鎌倉時代を生き抜き室町将軍家に

その後源氏将軍の血筋が絶え、北条氏が執権として実権を握りましたが、義兼の息子、義氏は鎌倉幕府の重臣となりました。足利氏としても、現在の愛知県の一部にあたる三河国に新しい領地を獲得しました。そのため、義氏は普段は武家の都、鎌倉に住んでいました。そこには政所が設置され、領地全体をコントロールしていました。もとの本拠地であった足利荘でさえ、足利氏の当主ではなく当地に置かれた公文所の役人によって治められました。よって、義氏は足利の父親の館(足利氏館)を1234年に鑁阿寺とし、父親の冥福と氏族の繁栄を祈る場所としたのです。

足利義氏肖像画、江戸時代の作、鑁阿寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
足利荘の公文所が置かれたとされる勧農山(現・岩井山)

鎌倉幕府の他の重臣たちが北条氏によって粛清される中、足利氏は鎌倉時代を生き延びました。多くの足利氏当主は、北条氏から輿入れした母親から生まれました。そのために足利氏は、幕府で第2の地位を維持できたものと思われます。その一方で、多くの武士たちが足利氏に対して、源氏の棟梁を継ぐ者として世の中を変えてほしいという期待を持っていました。義氏から5代後の当主、足利尊氏は北条氏出身でない母親から生まれました。そういったことが尊氏が、後醍醐天皇やもう一人の源氏の子孫である新田義貞とともに、鎌倉幕府を倒す要因の一部になったと考えられています。

足利尊氏肖像画、浄土寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
後醍醐天皇肖像画、清浄光寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
新田義貞肖像画、藤島神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「足利氏館その2」に続きます。

17.Kanayama Castle Part3

This castle might have become more popular.

Features

Living and Religious places in Castle

The enclosures on the upper tiers were used as another pivot point as well as a place for living. The team found traces of kitchen stoves and a well, which were restored with a hut on the Southern Upper Tier Enclosure at the same time as the stone walls. The Southern Enclosure on the top of the tiers is used as the rest house, which is another viewing spot.

The map of the main portion of the castle

The restored hut on the Southern Upper Tier Enclosure
The restored kitchen stoves in the hut
The Southern Enclosure and the rest house on it
A view from the Southern Enclosure

To reach the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain, you will pass and see a larger pond being covered with stone mounds as well, called Hi-no-ike or the Sun Pond. This is actually not a reservoir but a well, which had been famous as a holy place since the Ancient Times before the castle was built. That’s why people in the castle used it for religious services.

The Sun Pond
The Sun Pond viewed from above

Main Enclosure is used as Shrine

Around the top of the mountain is the Main, Second, Third Enclosures, but you can not access the two of the latter because they are privately owned. You will eventually go to the Main Enclosure on the top, which is now used as Nitta Shrine. As for the castle ruins, you can walk around the enclosure, called Musha-bashiri or the Defense Passage, and see the partially remaining original stone walls which are also uncertain as to who first built them.

The Second Enclosure is not allowed to enter
Nitta Shrine in the Main Enclosure
A view from the Main Enclosure
The remaining stone walls behind the Main Enclosure
The Defense Passage around the Main Enclosure

Later History

After Kanayama Castle was abandoned, the Tokugawa Shogunate banned people from entering its mountain area to provide Matsutake mushroom to the shoguns during the Edo period. In fact, the Matsutake produced at the mountain was served to the Imperial Families until 1964.

A view of the Eastern hiking course, there are still Japanese red pines that could provide Matsutake mushroom, but they can’t produce it now because of aging

The shogunate also conserved the former area of the Nitta Manor by building religious facilities such as Serada Toshogu Shrine, Kinryuji and Daikoin Temples as they had declared the shoguns were a branch of the Nita Clan, which meant they were descendants of the Minamoto Clan. Even the shogunate needed the authority to govern the whole country. As for castle ruins, Kanayama Castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1934. Ota City has been excavating and developing them as a historical site since 1995.

Serada Toshogu Shrine
Kinryuji Temple
Daikoin Temple

My Impression

When the Yura Clan was banished from Kanayama Castle, only the lord’s mother, Myoinni was against the idea of Hojo Clan keeping the castle. Even after she gave it up, she joined Maeda’s troops to attack the Hojo Clan in 1590 when she was already 77 years old. That caused the Yura Clan to survive while the Hojo Clan to decline in the end. I guess if she and the Yura Clan could still stay in the strong Kanayama Castle even with only a few defenders, there might have been a dramatic event at the castle when Hideyoshi invaded the Kanto Region like Nagachika Narita fought with Mitsunari Ishida at Oshi Castle.

The ruins of Ushiku Castle  (licensed by Monado via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Oshi Castle

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins because there are no buses that go directly to the ruins available. It is about a 10-minute drive away from Ota-Kiryu IC on the Kita-Kanto Expressway. There are several parking lots at the foot, halfway up, and at the top of the mountain.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes around 1 hour from Ota Station. It would be better to take a taxi from the station.
From Tokyo to Ota Station: Take the JR Ueno-Tokyo Line from Tokyo Station and transfer to the Ryomo limited express on the Tobu Isesaki Line at Kitasenju Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kanayama Castle Part1”
Back to “Kanayama Castle Part2”

17.Kanayama Castle Part2

An impregnable fortress on a hiking course

Features

Castle Ruins on Hiking Course

Today, the ruins of Kanayama Castle have been well developed by Ota City. The mountain, where the ruins were located, are covered by several hiking courses including the routes to the ruins, where you can see many people enjoying and relaxing on them. For history fans visiting the ruins, it may be better to climb Nishiyama (the Western Mountain) course from such as Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility.

The map around the castle

Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility
The entrance to the Western Mountain course from the facility
the Western Mountain hiking course
Arriving at the parking lot on the mountain

Drivers can also go straight to the parking lot on the mountain through the Kanayama Drive Way, about 700m away from the top, around Nishijo or the Western Castle area. The Western Mountain hiking course also meets the area, so a tour to the ruins usually starts there.

The entrance of the Kanayama Drive Way
The Kanayama Drive Way
The parking lot on the mountain
The entrance ruins of the Western Castle near the parking lot

Defense system to prevent enemies from attacking Castle easily

To go to the center of the ruins, you need to go on the original or recently developed route towards the east. You will find several ditches which were built for preventing enemies from attacking the castle easily.

The location map of the castle ruins at the site
a route to the center, developed in the present time
An original route, but it breaks on the way
One of the ditches

In particular, the one in front of the Lookout Tower was built by digging bedrock deeply, which looks very impressive. In addition, double entrances behind the ditch are surrounded by restored stone walls, and you can enter them after going across the earthen bridge over the ditch.

The ditch in front of the Lookout Tower
The first entrance under the tower
The second entrance
The miniature model of around the Lookout Tower, exhibited by Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility

The tower above the entrance was rebuilt as an observation platform, where you can see great views of the city area and mountains around. This area must have been a pivot point of the castle.

The rebuilt tower as an observation platform
Looking down the entrance from the tower
A view from the tower

Restored Main Entrance with Stone Walls and Paving

Next comes the main portion of the castle, called Mijo, which is divided by the Large Ditch, the largest one in the castle, and a small reservoir being covered with stone mounds, called Tsuki-no-ike or the Moon Pond.

The map of the main portion of the castle

The Large Ditch
The Moon Pond

Over the pond, you will see the outstanding Main Entrance in a valley, which are surrounded by great several tiered stone walls on both sides. The entrance also has stone paving with drainage ditches, so it looks like a European castle. These stone walls were recently restored by the officials based on the achievements of the excavations and studies, partially using the original stones.

The restored Main Entrance
The several tiered stone walls on the northern side of the valley
Seeing the southern side of the valley from the northern side
Seeing the Main Entrance from the inside

They were thought to be completed by the Hojo Clan, the final owner of the castle. This is because they were piled in a method called Agodome style (in which all the stones in the bottom row are layered heavily to prevent the walls from collapsing) which the clan used in Hachioji Castle, their other branch castle. However, the excavation team also found that the stone walls were improved many times, so other clans might have started to build them.

A part of the stone walls, having the Agodashi style
The ruins of Hachioji Castle

To be continued in “Kanayama Castle Part3”
Back to “Kanayama Castle Part1”

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