49.Odani Castle Part1

A large mountain castle the Azai Clan built

Location and History

Azai Clan built Castle as their Home Base

Odani Castle was a large mountain castle located in the northern part of Omi Province, which is now Shiga Prefecture. A local warlord of the Azai Clan, built the castle around 1520’s during the Sengoku Period. However, the clan was unfortunately defeated at this castle in 1573. As a result, the castle has been known to many people for Azai’s tragedy.

The range of Omi Province and the location of the castle

Omi Provence had been a very important location connecting western and eastern Japan. The Shoguns and rulers wanted to own or take control over this province. That’s why Nobunaga Oda made an alliance with Nagamasa Azai who was the lord of the clan by getting his sister Oichi married with Nagamasa before he went to Kyoto in 1568. However, Nagamasa rebelled against Nobunaga in 1570 when Nobunaga attacked the Asakura Clan which was another ally of the Azai Clan. The long battle between Nobunaga and Nagamasa had started.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nagamasa Azai, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is improved to fight against Nobunaga Oda

Odani Castle was built on a ridge of Odaniyama-Mountain (at 495m). It had many enclosures with halls which were surrounded by stone walls. It is thought that they were for living and showing authority to people rather than for battles at its first stage. This was because the lord of the castle sometimes escaped from the castle when it was attacked. However, in order to fight against Nobunaga, the castle was improved as a strong fortress with the help of the Asakura Clan. The castle also had many branch castles such as Ozuku Castle on the top of the mountain to protect the back side of Odani Castle.

The relief map around the castle

Nagamasa and the Asakura Clan fought against Nobunaga on a field in the Battle of Anegawa in 1570 but were beaten. Then, he decided to stay in Odani Castle waiting for his allies, the anti-Nobunaga Network beating Nobunaga. Nobunaga gave up making an aggressive attack on the castle, instead, he took actions to make it isolated bit by bit. His retainer such as Hideyoshi Hashiba persuaded some of Nagamasa’s retainers to support Nobunaga. That resulted in some branch castles of Odani Castle belonging to Nobunaga’s side without battles.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is isolated after long battle, then falls

Nobunaga also built a new battle castle called Toragoze-yama Castle as his stronghold in front of Odani Castle. This made Nobunaga get supplies easier, while making it much more difficult for Nagamasa. In 1573, Nobunaga drove the Asakura Clan away from the most important branch, Ozuku Castle which they had held and captured it. Moreover, Nobunaga chased the clan down to their home base, Ichijodani Castle, and defeated them. As a result, Odani Castle was completely isolated.

The relief map around the castle

The ruins of Ichijodani Castle

In the castle on the ridge, Nagamasa was at the Main Enclosure in the lower part and his father, Hisamasa was at the Komaru Enclosure in the upper part. Nobunaga’s retainer, Hideyoshi Hashiba rushed up from the foot to the Kyogoku-maru Enclosure in the middle part and captured it on Aug 27th. That meant the castle and the Azai Family were divided. Hisamasa fell into crisis and killed himself performing Hara-kiri on the same day. Nagamasa held on for a few more days, but finally killed himself in the same way as his father, and the castle fell on Sep 1st.

The portrait of Hisamasa Azai, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored map of the enclosures on the ridge, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters for some enclosures’ names

Fates of Namasa Azai’s wife and children

Oichi, who was Nobunaga’s sister, but also Nagamasa’s wife, had still been at the castle and was saved by Nobunaga. She and Nagamasa had three daughters and at least one son. These daughters were also saved and later known as Azai’s Three Sisters including the oldest Chacha being Hideyoshi’s wife after he became the ruler of Japan. The son called Manpuku-maru was unfortunately killed as a common rule at that time not to be revenged by him. The heads of Nagamasa and Hisamasa’s were on public display in Kyoto also as another common rule. Nobunada made skull cups using their heads to share them with his retainers in a party. There were many different common practices at that times from us.

The portrait of Oichi, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The statues of the three sisters, at the site of Kitanosho Castle Ruins

To be continued in “Odani Castle Part2”

49.小谷城 その1

浅井氏が築いた大規模な山城

立地と歴史

浅井氏が本拠地として築城

小谷城は、現在の滋賀県にあたる近江国のうち、北部にあった大規模な山城です。戦国時代の1520年代頃に、この地方の戦国大名であった浅井氏がこの城を築きました。ところが、浅井氏は不幸にも1573年にこの城で滅ぼされてしまったため、浅井の悲劇とともに人々に記憶されることになりました。

近江国の範囲と城の位置

近江国は、東日本と西日本をつなぐとても重要な位置にありました。歴代の将軍や天下人たちは、この国を統治するか、思いのままにコントロールしたがっていました。そのため、例えば織田信長は、1568年に上洛する前に、彼の妹お市を、浅井氏の当主であった長政に嫁がせ同盟を結んだのです。ところが長政は、1570年に信長が浅井氏のもう一つの同盟先である朝倉氏を攻めたとき、信長に反旗を翻しました。信長と長政の長い戦いはこうして始まりました。

織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
浅井長政肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

織田信長との戦いのために強化

小谷城は、小谷山(標高495m)の尾根上に築かれました。館を伴う多くの曲輪があり、石垣に囲まれていました。城の初期の段階では、これらの構築物は戦うためというよりも、居住のためや権威を象徴するものであったと考えられています。それは、この城の城主が敵から攻撃されたとき、度々城から逃亡していたからです。しかし、信長と戦うことになってからは、朝倉氏からの協力によって、城は強固な要塞として改良されました。また、この城には多くの支城がありました。例えば、大嶽(おおずく)城は小谷山の頂上にあり、峰上にある小谷城の背後を守っていました。

城周辺の起伏地図

長政と朝倉氏は、1570年の姉川の戦いで、信長と野戦を行いましたが、敗れてしまいます。そのため、長政は小谷城に籠ることにし、信長包囲網と呼ばれる他の味方の大名たちが信長を倒すのを待つことにしました。信長は、城を力攻めにすることは諦め、その代わりに少しずつ城を孤立化する策を講じました。羽柴秀吉などの信長の部下たちは、長政の家臣を説得し、信長の味方に引き入れました。その結果、いくつもの小谷城の支城は、戦うことなしに信長側についたのです。

のちの羽柴秀吉、豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

長期戦により孤立、そして落城

信長はまた、小谷城の正面に、陣城として虎御前山(とらごぜやま)城を築き本陣としました。このことで、信長側の補給は安定し、一方の長政側は困難となりました。1573年、信長は、最も重要な支城であった大嶽城に滞陣し守っていた朝倉氏を追い払いました。その上で、信長は朝倉氏を、本拠地である一乗谷城まで追跡し、ついには滅ぼしてしまったのです。その結果、小谷城は完全に孤立しました。

城周辺の起伏地図

一乗谷城跡

峰上にある城において、長政は低い方にあった本丸にいました。彼の父親である久政は高い方にあった小丸にいました。信長の部下、羽柴秀吉は麓から一気に駆け上がって中間地点にあった京極丸を占拠しました。それが8月27日のことです。城とそこにいる浅井一族は分断されてしまったのです。久政は混乱に陥り、その日のうちに切腹して果ててしまいます。長政の方は、何日間か持ちこたえましたが、父親と同じように自害しました。城は9月1日に落城しました。

浅井久政肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
現地にある曲輪復元図に曲輪名を赤字で加筆

浅井長政の妻子の運命

信長の妹のお市は、長政の妻でもあったので、まだ城に留まっており、信長によって救助されました。彼女と長政の間には3人の娘と少なくとも1人の息子がいました。この娘たちも同様に救われ、後に浅井三姉妹として知られるようになります。長女の茶々は、秀吉が天下人となった後にその妻となりました。息子の万福丸は、その当時の習わしとして、成人してから復讐できないよう不幸にも殺されてしまいます。長政と久政の首は、これも当時の習いとして京都の公衆の面前に晒されました。信長は、彼らの頭蓋骨を使って髑髏(どくろ)杯を作らせ、宴会で部下たちに披露しました。当時は現在のわれわれとは全く違った多くの風習があったのです。(髑髏杯については、信長だけの特異な行動だったのかもしれませんし、これを敗れた部将への敬意によるものと考える人さえいます。)

お市の方肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
三姉妹(左から茶々、江、初)の銅像、北ノ庄城跡

「小谷城その2」に続きます。

47.Iga-Ueno Castle Part3

The castle came back in the Showa Era.

Features

Looking up High Stone Walls

You can also look up these great stone walls by walking the street along the Western Inner Moat, outside the park. The length of the stone walls is nearly 250m.

The map around the castle

The entrance to the Western Inner Moat
The high stone walls are coming into view.

The line of them is bent elaborately in several points so that defenders could make a side counterattack against enemies if they attack the castle.

The line of the stone walls is bent elaborately.
A side view of the line

The corners of the walls are piled using processed rectangular stones alternated in a method called Sangi-zumi. Overall, these stone walls look durable and beautiful.

A corner of the stone walls
The corner piled in the Sangi-zumi method looks great.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Iga-Ueno Castle was abandoned and the castle buildings were demolished. The center of the castle was turned into a park. In 1935, a native politician, Katsu Kawasaki donated the third wooden Main Tower on the stone wall base for the second Main Tower which Takatora Todo tried to build. Since then, people still call this site Iga-Ueno Castle probably because the Main Tower is intact. As for the original castle ruins, they were designated as a National Historic Site in 1967.

A picture of Katsu Kawasaki (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The third Main Tower Kawasaki donated

My Impression

I was surprised to see many castles Takatora built or gave design advice on in western Japan, including the rebuilt Osaka Castle. He was involved in the creation of the No.1 and No.2 highest. The stone walls of Iga-Ueno Castle are still some of the highest ones in Japan and a great place to see. However, let me say again that you must be careful not to step off of the top of the high stone walls.

Looking down the high stone walls
looking up the high stone walls

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Nakase IC or Ueno IC on the Meihan Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in the park.
If you want to use public transportation, It takes about 10 minutes on foot from Ueno-shi Station on Iga Railway to get there. The station nicknames itself Ninja City Station and you can get the unique painted train called the Ninja Train.
To get to Ueno-shi Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express, transfer to the Kintetsu-Nagoya Line on Kintetsu Railway at Nagoya Station, transfer to the Kintetsu-Osaka Line at Ise-Nakagawa Station, and transfer to the Iga Line on Iga Railway at Iga-Kanbe Station.

The parking lot in the park
“Ninja City Station”
The Ninja Train

Links and References

Iga Ueno Castle, Iga Cultural Industry Association

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Iga-Ueno Castle Part1”
Back to “Iga-Ueno Castle Part2”