164.Sumoto Castle Part1

A great castle on Awaji Island

Location and History

Castle built in Independent Awaji Province

Sumoto Caste was located on Awaji Island which is between the main island of Japan and Shikoku Island with two narrow straits. Awaji Island is also surrounded by the Harima Sea, Osaka Bay and Kii Channel. The island was also near Kyoto, which was considered the center of Japan. Awaji was regarded as an important location before the Modern Times, especially for controlling and monitoring water transportation.

The location of the castle

As a result, it became an independent province and was called Awaji Province (what is now part of Hyogo Prefecture). In the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the Atagi Clan under the Miyoshi Clan first built Sumoto Castle for commanding navy forces. However, the Atagi Clan surrendered to the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi in 1581. Hideyoshi finally sent his retainer, Yasuharu Wakizaka, to Sumoto Castle in 1585. Yasuharu governed the castle as the lord of the Sumoto Domain for 24 years until 1609 when he was transferred to Ozu Castle.

The portrait of Yasuharu Wakizaka, owned by Tatsuno Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yasuharu Wakizawa improved Castle significantly

Sumoto Castle was originally a simple mountain castle made of soil on Mikuma-yama Mountain where the sea area around can be seen from the top. Yasuharu renovated Sumoto Castle by building stone walls and many turrets including the Main Tower on the mountain. These structures came from the typical method for building castles used by Hideyoshi and his retainers. This building method spread across the whole country during Hideyoshi’s unification of Japan. They made their castles stronger which made people recognize their authority. Yasuharu also built his main hall and the castle town at the foot of the mountain. He finally constructed a direct route made with terraced stone walls called Nobori-Ishigaki or the Climbing Stone Walls. The stone walls connected the foot and the top of the mountain. This is one of the few remaining examples of it which some lords, including Yasuharu, developed during the Imjin War in Korea for transmission or defense. He applied it to Sumoto Castle after he returned to Japan. Sumoto Castle was then considered completed.

The relief map around the castle

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
The Climbing Stone Walls

Castle is once abandoned

However, Sumoto Castle was not used by other lords after Yasuharu was transferred. This was because Awaji Province became part of their territories and they used other castles as their branch castles in the province. Moreover, the castle was once abandoned after The Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1615. All the buildings on the mountain were demolished by the Hachisuka Clan which governed Awaji Province and Awa Province (what is now Tokushima Prefecture) at that time. According to a theory, the Main Tower for Sumoto Castle was moved to Ozu Castle by Yasuharu before Sumoto Castle was abandoned. The style of the Main Tower at Ozu Castle matches one of the popular methods for main towers when Yasuharu was at Sumoto Castle.

The location of branch castles in Awaji Island

Ozu Castle

Stone walls maintained as branch of Hachisuka Clan

In 1631, the Hachisuka Clan restored Sumoto Castle as their branch castle in Awaji Province for reasons unknown. They sent their senior vassal, the Inada Clan to the castle to govern it. However, the center of the castle was set at the foot of the mountain by re-building the main hall for the lord. The mountain part had just the maintained stone walls which the Wakizaka Clan built, with few new gates added. This is probably because Sumoto Castle was a branch of Hachisuka Clan, not their home base called Tokushima Castle, but needed as a place for emergency on the mountain. This unique design was kept until the end of the Edo Period in the middle of the 19th Century.

Part of the illustration of Sumoto Castle and the castle town, in the Edo Period, exhibited by the National Diet Library, Only the stone walls already remained on the mountain
The castle ruins of the foot of the mountain(licensed by Reggaeman via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Sumoto Castle Part2”

164.洲本城 その1

淡路島にある素晴らしい城

立地と歴史

独立した淡路国に築かれた城

洲本城は、日本の本州と四国、そして2つの細い海峡(明石海峡と鳴門海峡)に挟まれた淡路島にありました。また、淡路島は播磨灘、大阪湾、紀伊海峡にも囲まれています。この島は、日本の中心とされた京都にも近く、近代以前には、特に海上交通をコントロールしたり監視したりするための重要な拠点と見なされていました。その結果、淡路島は、淡路国として独立した国となっていました(現在では兵庫県の一部となっています)。

城の位置

戦国時代の16世紀、三好氏の配下であった安宅(あたぎ)氏が最初に洲本城を築き、水軍を率いました。しかし、安宅氏は1581年に天下人の豊臣秀吉に降伏しました。秀吉は(一旦仙石久秀にこの城を与えますが)最終的には1585年に、部下の脇坂安治(わきざかやすはる)を洲本城に送り込みます。安治は、大洲城に転封となる1609年までの24年間、洲本藩の藩主としてこの城を統治しました。

脇坂安治肖像画、龍野神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

脇坂安治が大幅に強化

洲本城は、もともと土造りの単純な山城であり、三熊山の上に築かれました。その頂からは、周辺の海域(東側の大阪湾と南側の紀伊水道)を見渡すことができます。安治は、洲本城を大幅に改修し、山の上に石垣や天守を含む多くの櫓を築きました。こういった城の構造は、秀吉やその部下たちによって成された典型的な築城方法でした。この築城方法は、秀吉の天下統一事業の間、日本中に広まりました。城をより強化することで、人々に権威を誇示していたのです。安治はまた、山麓に御殿を築き、城下町を開設しました。彼は最後に、登り石垣と呼ばれる階段状の石垣を、山麓と山頂をつなぐ直通ルートとして建設しました。登り石垣は、安治を含む数名の大名が、朝鮮侵攻の際、連絡あるいは防衛のために開発したものです。洲本城にあるものは、現存する数少ない登り石垣の一つです。安治は、日本に戻った後、登り石垣を洲本城に応用したのです。これにより、洲本城は完成したとされています。

城周辺の起伏地図

本丸の石垣
登り石垣

一時は廃城に

ところが、安治が転封となった後、洲本城は他の大名たち(池田氏、蜂須賀氏)によって使用されませんでした。これは、淡路国がその大名たちの所領の一部になったこと(池田氏は播磨国、蜂須賀氏は阿波国が本拠)、淡路国では他の城を支城として使ったこと(岩屋城や由良城)がその理由です。更には、洲本城は、1615年に徳川幕府により発せられた一国一城令により一時廃城となってしまいます。山上の全ての建物は、当時淡路国と阿波国(現在の徳島県)を治めていた蜂須賀氏によって撤去されました。一説によると、洲本城が廃城となる前に、その天守が脇坂安治により大洲城に移設されたとのことです。大洲城の天守の形式が、安治が洲本城にいた時に一般的であった天守の形式の一つに該当するそうです。

淡路島にあった支城群の位置

大洲城

蜂須賀氏の支城として石垣を維持

1631年、蜂須賀氏は、何らかの理由で洲本城を淡路国の支城として復旧しました(交通の便のためとも言われています。それまで使っていた、大阪湾入口近くにあった由良城は廃城となりました)。蜂須賀氏は、家老の稲田氏を城代として城に派遣しました。しかし、城の中心部は山の麓に設定され、城主の御殿が再建されました(御殿は城主である蜂須賀氏のためであり、稲田氏は別の屋敷に住んでいました)。山の部分は基本的には脇坂氏が築いた石垣のみが維持され、新しい門がいくつか添えられただけでした。これは恐らく、蜂須賀氏にとって、本拠地の徳島城とは違い、洲本城はあくまで支城の一つであり、山上は非常時にのみ必要な場所だったからでしょう。この城の珍しい形態は、19世紀半ばの江戸時代末期まで維持されました。

淡路国(洲)本城下之絵図、江戸時代(出展:国立国会図書館)山上部分は既に石垣のみとなっています
山麓部分の城跡 (licensed by Reggaeman via Wikimedia Commons)

「洲本城その2」に続きます。

160.Imori Castle Part3

The ruins are becoming a National Historic Site.

Later History

Imori Mountain was developed as a tourist spot in the Modern Times. For example, the statue of Masatsura Kusunoki and the stand for hoisting the national flag were built on the top. In addition, an amusement park was built on the Senjojiki Enclosure during the early Showa Era which might have destroyed part of the castle ruins. Shijonawate and Daito Citys, which own the ruins of Imori Castle dividedly, have recently been excavating the ruins. That’s why new discoveries such as the stone walls are often found. They aim to have the ruins designated as a National Historic Site.

The Senjojiki Enclosure
The remaining stone walls at the eastern side of the Main Enclosure (quoted from the Daito City Website)

My Impression

I think visiting the ruins of Imori Castle is like killing two birds with one stone. You can see the castle ruins while taking a hike. In addition, you may find a new discovery from the recent excavation with every visit.

A view from the castle ruins

As for Nagayoshi Miyoshi, if he lived a little longer, the Japanese history might have been different. Nobunaga Oda would not have gotten to Kyoto that easily, so his unification of Japan would be impossible. Nobunaga was not only strong, but also very fortunate.

Part of the portrait of Nagayoshi Miyoshi, owned by Juko-in of Daitokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

How to get There

It takes about one and a half hours from Shijonawate Station or Nozaki Station on JR Gakuen-toshi line to the castle ruins on foot.
To get to the stations from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, transfer to the Osaka-Higashi Line at Shin-Osaka Station, and transfer to the Gakuen-toshi Line at Hanaten Station.

Links and References

Daito City Website
Shijonawate City Website

That’s all.
Back to “Imori Castle Part1”
Back to “Imori Castle Part2”