Today, the ruins of Kozukue Castle are preserved by Yokohama City as a park called the Kozukue Castle Ruins Forest. Yokohama City has the largest population among the cities in Japan except for Tokyo Special Ward, with about 3.8 million citizens. Even the hilly area around the ruins is covered with lots of modern facilities, office buildings and residences. However, once you walk into the ruins, you may feel like you are in another world. The hill for the ruins is basically planted with a beautiful and well-maintained bamboo forest. The foundation of the castle also remains under the forest.
The bamboo forest on the ruinsThe location map at the site
The map around the castle
You can climb up on the well-developed trail from the foot of the hill called Nekoya.
The foot of the hillClimbing on the trail
Large-scale Dry Moat
You will soon reach the top of the outer earthen walls and see the large-scale dry moat in front of the enclosures. This dry moat is still about 13m in width and about 12m in depth. It must have been much deeper in the past. When the excavation team recently dug the bottom of another dry moat in the castle at over 2m, they still could not find its original bottom.
The large dry moatLooking at the bottom of the moat
The trail goes on the outer earthen walls at the same level as the top of the moat, but you can also go down to the bottom from some points where the slope of the moat is gentle. If you stand at the bottom looking up, you might find another perspective of the castle.
The trail going on the outer earthen wallsOne of the points where you can go down to the bottom of the moatThe bottom of the dry moat
Eastern Enclosure under Excavation
If you walk around the outer earthen walls to the right, you will reach the Eastern Enclosure which is also called the Second Enclosure at the site. The excavation is also ongoing at the center of the enclosure, where some buildings were built in the past.
The center of the Eastern EnclosureThe excavation site
You can also climb up to the high turret earthen base at the edge of the enclosure, where you can look down the dry moat around it from the top.
Climbing up to the turret baseA view of the dry moat around the enclosure from the base
The trail around the enclosure goes to the bottom of the moat. You will find the beautiful bamboo forest around the enclosure again when you walk on the trail.
The trail on the bottom of the moatThe wonderful bamboo forest
Western Enclosure used as Sports Square
If you walk around the outer earthen walls to the left or walk over the Connecting Enclosure from the Eastern Enclosure, you will reach the Western Enclosure which is also called the Main Enclosure at the site. The inside of it is a flat square, so it is used for sports like baseball now. An altered gate called Kabuki-mon was built at the entrance of it to look like the Main Enclosure. However, in fact, historians have been arguing for over 150 years if this enclosure was really the main one. Some of them think the Eastern Enclosure was main. The excavation may find the correct answer in the future.
You can go there by turning left at the first intersectionOr walking over the Connecting Enclosure from the Second EnclosureThe Western EnclosureThe altered gate
城跡は自然とともに残っています。
The castle ruins remain with nature.
本丸と中の丸をつなぐ曳橋～The movable bridge between Honmaru and Nakanomaru
立地と歴史～Location and History
滝山城は現在の八王子市の多摩川南岸の河岸段丘上にありました。この城の起源は、戦国時代のいずれかの時点で大石氏によると言われていますが、１５６０年の上杉謙信の関東侵攻をきっかけとして、北条氏照が拡張、完成させました。この城の使命は、小田原城の防御線になることと、小田原と北関東とのルートを確保することでした。 Takiyama Castle was located on the southern bank terrace of Tamagawa River in what is now Hachioji City, Tokyo. The origin of the castle is said to be by the Oishi clan sometime in “Sengoku” or the Warring States Period, but Ujiteru Hojo improved and completed the castle, inspired by the Kenshin Uesugi’s Kanto invasion in 1560. The mission of the castle was to be the defense line for Odawara Castle and to hold the route between Odawara and the northern Kanto region.
滝山城の位置、赤い線は1560年の上杉謙信の侵攻概略ルート、青い線は1569年の武田信玄のもの～The location of Takiyama Castle, the red line shows the rough attack route of Kenshin Uesugi in 1560, the blue line is that of Shingen Takeda in 1569
この城の北側は多摩川に沿って急な崖となっていて、攻めるには困難でした。この城の３つの主な通路は、川の反対側にある滝山街道につながっていました。これらの通路は全て二の丸に集まっていました。二の丸は防衛の中心拠点であり、桝形という方形の入り口と、馬出と呼ばれる障壁となる関門が通路に向かって設置されていました。 The northern side of the castle was a steep cliff along Tamagawa River which is difficult to attack. The three main routes to the castle were connected from the Takiyama Road, the opposite side of the river. The routes all gathered the Ninomaru enclosure. The enclosure was the defensive center which had square entrances called Masugata and gateway barriers called Umadashi heading towards these routes.
城周辺の起伏地図～The relief map around the castle
二の丸の後ろには、中の丸と本丸がありました。双方が曳橋という可動橋によってつながっており、緊急時には容易に取り外しが可能でした。本丸は、中心でかつ最後の曲輪となりますが、比較的小さいように思えます。歴史家は、そこが土豪が作ったこの城の最初の場所だったのだろうと推測しています。 The back of Ninomaru are Nakanomaru and Honmaru enclosures. Both were tied by a movable bridge called Hikihashi that could be removed easily for in emergency. Honmaru was the main and last enclosure which looked relatively small. Some historians speculate it could be the origin of the castle for a local clan.
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
１５６９年、甲斐（現在の山梨県）から武田信玄が北条の領地に侵入し、この城を攻撃しました。信玄は二の丸に迫りましたが、諦めて小田原の方に向かったと言われています。氏照は滝山城を守り切ったのです。 In 1569, Shingen Takeda from Kai Province (now Yamanashi Pref.) invaded Hojo’s territory and attacked the castle. It is said that Shingen approached Ninomaru, but gave up and transferred to Odawara. Ujiteru was successful in keeping Takiyama Castle.
武田信玄肖像画、高野山持明院蔵、１６世紀～The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in, in the 16th century（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
１５８４年前後、氏照は城下町ごと八王子城の方に移っていきました。この理由は歴史家によって分かれています。一つは、武田との戦いの結果から北条がより強い城を必要としたというものです。もう一つは、１５７８年に謙信が死に、１５８２年に武田が滅亡したので滝山城はもう必要なくなったというものです。 Around 1584, Ujiteru moved to Hachioji Castle with the castle town. Historians’ opinion about the reason remain divided. One is that Hojo needed a stronger castle than Takiyama because of the result of battle with Takeda. The other is that there would be no need for Takiyama Castle after Kenshin died in 1578, and Takeda was destructed in 1582.
二の丸周辺～Around Ninomaru
特徴～Features
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
現在、城跡は都立滝山公園という自然公園の一部になっています。木々、植物、そして花に囲まれたハイキングコースがあります。車かバスを使った場合には、三の丸と小宮曲輪に挟まれた通路から入っていきます。 Now, the ruins of the castle are inside of a nature park called Metropolitan Takiyama Park. There are hiking trails among trees, plants and flowers. When using cars or buses, you will enter one of the routes sandwiched Sannnomaru and Komiya enclosures.
駐車場かバス停からの通路～The route from the parking lot or the bus stop
このルートは狭く、美しい竹林の合間をまっすぐ登っていきます。 The route is narrow and straight up among a beautiful bamboo forest.
竹林に囲まれた通路～The route surrounded by the bamboo forest
城跡の入り口は折れ曲がっていて、かつては城全体を囲んでいた長い空堀が目に入ってきます。 The entrance of ruins is zigzagged and you can see a long dry moat that surrounded the whole castle area in the past.
城跡の入り口～The entrance of the castle ruins城跡を囲む空堀～The dry moat surrounding the castle ruins
敵は、周りの曲輪による両側からの反撃を受けることになります。１５６９年の武田の攻撃によりこの辺りは占領されてしまったと言われています。 Enemies had to break counterattacks from both sides of the enclosures around. It is said that Takeda’s attack in 1569 was able to capture this area.
三の丸を見上げる～Looking up Sannomaru enclosure
道は左手に深い谷を見ながら進み、千畳敷と呼ばれる広場を過ぎ、防御の中心拠点二の丸に至ります。ここには馬出しと桝形の遺構があります。 The route goes on next to a deep valley on your left. Then, passing a wide area called Senjojiki, you will reach the defense center Ninomaru. There are the ruins of Umadashi and Masugata.
左手は深い谷です～The deep valley on the left千畳敷～The area called Senjojiki馬出し跡、正面～The ruins of Umadashi, the front side馬出し跡、背面～The ruins of Umadashi, the back side二の丸の中心地～The center of Ninomaru
その後、中の丸と本丸の間にかかった曳橋が見えてきます。 After that, you can see the restored movable bridge between Nakanomaru and Honmaru.
曳橋～The movable bridge中の丸から見た橋～The bridge from Nakanomaru
中の丸からは多摩川周辺の風景を眺めることができます。 You can also see a view of around Tamagawa River from Nakanomaru.
中の丸～Nakanomaru enclosure中の丸からの眺め～A view from Nakanomaru
最近の発掘により、本丸には桝形があり、その床には自然石が敷き詰めてあり、排水の仕組みもあったとのことです。 The recent excavation found that Honmaru had a Masugata gate on the floor covered with natural river stones, and a draining system.
本丸の桝形跡～The ruins of Honmaru Masugata gate本丸の内部～The inside of Honmaru
その後～Later History
この城は、戦国時代のうちに放棄されました。そのため、当時の城の構造がよい状態で自然とともに残っているのです。城跡は、１９５１年に国の史跡にも指定されました。 The castle was abandoned during the Warring States Period. That’s why the structure of a castle at that time remains well with nature. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1951 as well.
曳橋からの風景～A view from the movable bridge
私の感想～My Impression
城跡となっている場所は、主に自然公園として使われています。小道を歩き回っている観光客の人たちがたくさんいます。歴史ファンというよりは自然愛好家という感じです。これも史跡を活用する一つのやり方と思います。また、この城が自然の地形をうまく活用して作られたとも言えるでしょう。 The site of the castle ruins is mainly used as a natural park. You can see many tourists walking around the trails. They look like nature lovers rather than history fans. I think this is one of the ways to use historical sites. It also proves the castle was built using natural terrain very well.
小宮曲輪から通路を見下ろす～Looking down the route from Komiya enclosure
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：中央自動車道の八王子ＩＣから約１５分かかります。国道411号（滝山街道）沿いに観光駐車場があります。 ＪＲ八王子駅または京王八王子駅からバスで行く場合：戸吹、秋川駅、または戸吹スポーツ公園入口行きバスに乗り、滝山城址下バス停で降りてください。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 15 minutes from the Hachioji IC on Chuo Expressway. There is the parking lot for tourists along Route 411 (Takiyama Road). If you want to go there by bus from JR Hachioji station or Keio-Hachioji station: Take the bus for Tobuki, Akikawa-eki or Tobuki-sports-koen-iriguchi and take off at the Takiyama-joshi-shita bus stop.
