barbican enclosure – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

74.Iwakuni Castle Part2

Let us try to look into more of the castle.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, the residence at the foot of the mountain was turned into the Kikko Park in 1885. Kintaikyo Bridge survived for 277 years, however it was flown out because of the flood caused by Kezia Typhoon in 1950. People in Iwakuni City restored the bridge in the original method in 1953. It was rebuilt again in 2004 due to deterioration. That’s why it still looks new. It has been designated as a National Scenic Spot since 1922.

As for Iwakuni Castle, the Main Tower on the mountain was rebuilt in 1963, but its position was moved by about 50m from the original in ordered to be more well seen from the foot with the bridge. The cable car between the foot and the top also opened in 1964 which has been boosting tourism.

The present Main Tower of Iwakuni Castle which can be seen from the foot

Features

From Kintaikyo Bridge to Rebuilt Main Tower

For visitors who visit the area around Iwakuni Castle site today, the castle itself might not be popular for them. They probably want to see and walk across Kintaikyo Bridge first. They can also ride a cable car to the top of the mountain to enjoy the great view of the area including the bridge. Visiting the rebuilt Main Tower may be their third option because they can get a better view of the bridge from the foot. However, if you try to look into more of the castle, you can find new perspectives of it.

A view of Kintaikyo bridge from the top of the mountain

After arriving at the platform of the cable car, you will find the guide plate of the two routes to the castle. The guide plate recommends taking the left road, but I suggest taking the right road. This is because the path on the right leads you the front side of the castle. You will see the edge of the remaining stone walls with triangular stones on the right side of the trail. You can also see the great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left. As you go further, the Barbican Enclosure overhangs in front of you. It has a defensive square space called Masugata inside which was the Main Gate of the castle. The inside of the Gate Ruins is the Second Enclosure which is used as a modern rock garden, modified in the present time.

The map around the castle

The guide plate recommends the left wide road

The stone walls below the Second Enclosure

The stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure overhangs

Rebuilt Main Tower and Original Main Tower Base

The Main Enclosure is next to the Second Enclosure in the north. The restored Main Tower stands out in front of you. The tower probably has a similar appearance to the original one because its designer used the cross section drawing which was said to come from the original. It has four levels with the third one of which hanging out. This type of Main Towers was rare, called Nanban-zukuri or the Western Style. The tower is actually a modern building which is used as a historical museum and an observation platform. The original stone wall base for the Main Tower was also restored in the original position according to the excavation.

The Main Enclosure including the rebuilt Main Tower seen from the Second Enclosure

The explanation about the cross section drawing of the Main Tower, exhibited by Iwakuni Castle

To be continued in “Iwakuni Castle Part3”
Back to “Iwakuni Castle Part1”

170.Hamada Castle Part2

Introductions for both casual visitors and serious history fans

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hamada Castle Ruins had a little complicated history. The Japanese Army at first owned the ruins but they remained idle, while the remaining Main Tower collapsed due to the Hamada Earthquake in 1872. No buildings survived. After the ruins were sold to the former lord, Matsudaira Clan in 1890, Shimane Prefecture turned them into the Hamada Park in 1903. The route to the Main Enclosure on the top was developed, on the other hand, some stone walls were destroyed for the construction. In 1938, Hamada-Gokoku Shrine was established at the mid slope of the hill. Its approach from the foot was developed.

After World War II, Hamada City, which bought the ruins, planned to improve the park as well as a working area for people. Another route from the foot was developed and some stone walls were repaired by the work. The stone walls had been left after the fire at the end of the Edo Period. However, it was pointed out that their original condition was not considered in the repair. As a result, the ruins were designated as a Prefectural Historic Site of Shimane Prefecture in 1962.

The route to the ruins, which was developed after World War II

Features for General Visitors

Going to Castle Ruins through Hamada-Gokoku Shrine

Today, there are two routes to the ruins of Hamada Castle, houever they are not the original. If you choose the approach to Hamada-Gokoku Shrine as the route, it goes straight to the shrine at the mid slope with stone steps. You can look down Nakanomon Gate Ruins to the right of the way. In fact, the gate was on the original route.

The map around the casltle

The entrance of the approach to Hamada-Gokoku Shrine

The ruins of Nakanomon Gate seen from the approach

Gate moved from Tsuwano Castle

In the back of the shrine, you will see an old building which looks like a castle gate. However, it is also not original to this castle. When this city was part of the Hamada Prefectural Capital (Hamada Prefecture was later unified with Shimane Prefecture), they moved one of the gates of Tsuwano Castle for its office. The gate was finally moved to the current position in 1967 made as a park attraction.

The photo of the gate when it was used for the office

Going to Main Enclosure through Route developed in Meiji Era

You will enter the center of the ruins from the gate, the route becomes likely the original one surrounded by stone walls, but once you turn left, you will see another straight route to the Main Enclosure on the top. Such a layout was hard to believe for a castle because it would have been easier for enemies to attack it. In fact, this route was also developed for the park during the Meiji Era by breaking the stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure beside the Main Enclosure. That’s why visitors have easy access at the top.

The image of the original stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure, from the signboard at the site

Part of “the illustration of Hamada Castle Stone Walls”, from the signboard at the site, adding the red arrow as the current route and the red circles as the broken stone walls

Main Enclosure becomes Park Square

The inside of the Main Enclosure is a square now where you can see views such as the Hamada city area and Tonoura Cove. You can also see some remaining stone walls around and the rest seemed to have collapsed due to the earthquake back in 1872.

The Hamada city area seen from the Main Enclosure

Tonoura Cove seen from the Main Enclosure

The partially remaining stone walls of the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Hamada Castle Part3”
Back to “Hamada Castle Part1”

66.Tsuwano Castle Part2

Spectacular stone walls remaining on the mountain.

Features

Going Castle Ruins through former Castle Town

Today, visiting Tsuwano Town including Tsuwano Castle Ruins is exciting for many visitors. As you get close to the town by car or train, you will see many houses with reddish brown colored roof tiles called Sekishu Rooftiles on them, which can be used to protect people from a cold climate. You will also see the spectacular stone walls on the mountain beside the town, which are a good contrast with the color of the town.

The entrance of the ruins at the foot of the mountain is about 1.5km away from Tsuwano Station if you come by train. Even if you also walk from the station to the ruins, it can be another good tour going through the former castle town. The area around the entrance is where the Main Hall for the lord was built. The hall building was turned into Tsuwano High School and the garden for the hall was turned into a square. Two turrets for the hall are remaining as Babasaki or the Near Riding Ground and Monomi or the Lookout Turrets.

The relief map around the castle

The former garden for the Main Hall, called Kiraku-en

Going to Center of Ruins through Barbican Enclosure

The top of the mountain is about 200m above from the foot, so it would be efficient for visitors to use a lift operated by Tsuwano Town. The lift will take you to the top in few minutes while seeing the steep terrain and the trail for climbing.

You can walk from the lift platform to the ruins on the trail of the top. You will first arrive at Demaru or the Barbican Enclosure which was used as a lookout, little far from the canter of the castle. There are only remaining stone walls now, but where you can see a great view of the area around. You will next walk to the center on the temporary path probably because the original trail is dangerous or under excavation.

The aerial photo around the castle

Going to the ruins from the lift platform

People manage to maintain Stone Walls

You will see the center is still surrounded by the spectacular stone walls but without buildings. Part of them collapsed being covered with sheets to avoid further damage. This was due to the North Yamaguchi Earthquake and the following heavy rain in 1997.

The map around the castle

Visitors usually enter the Eastern Gate Ruins also using the temporary steps. You can see the three-tier stone walls on the right, which was used for the Three-Tier Turret in the past. The lower tier is covered by a net to prevent it from collapsing. The other tiers were re-plied in 1972. People in Tsuwano still struggle maintaining these stone walls.

Third Enclosure surrounding Top

The Third Enclosure has other gate ruins on the west and south, surrounding the top of the castle like a belt. If you go to the Western Turret Gate Ruins, you can see unaccountable broken pieces of Sekishu Rooftiles which probably came from the original gate building. Please make sure you don’t take them away from the original positions as they are all included to a National Historic Site.

The unaccountable broken pieces of Sekishu Rooftiles

The Southern Turret Gate Ruins are at the edge of a ridge just above a steep cliff. You may be thrilled if you are standing by the edge. The stone walls of the ruins are the oldest in the castle which Naomori Sakazaki originally built.

These stone walls are the oldest in the castle

There is a steep cliff below the gate ruins

If you look back from the Southern Turret Gate Ruins, you can see the stone wall base for Hitojichi or the Hostage Turret. They are the highest stone walls in the castle and their corner curve lines are beautiful. However, if the turret was really used to hold hostages like its name suggests, they could not escape from it, as the stone walls are isolated.

A view when you look back from the Southern Turret Gate Ruins

The stone wall base for the Hostage Turret

To be continued in “Tsuwano Castle Part3”
Back to “Tsuwano Castle Part1”