Today, Karatsu Castle is open to the public as a modern tourist facility. If you visit the castle site, you will first see the five-layer Imitation Main Tower on the mountain. It is actually a modern building, but its appearance looks like a Main Tower with a popular style when the castle was first built. It is still uncertain if the castle had a Main Tower, however, the tower looks great.
The aerial photo around the castle
If you drive to the castle site, you can park beside the estuary of Matsuura-gawa River. Crossing the road from the parking lot, you will be at the entrance of the castle. You can see the great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left, where the government main hall was in the past and a school is now.
A view of the Imitation Main Tower from the parking lotThe stone walls of the Second Enclosure
Climbing on Top, Enjoying great views
Visitors usually go to the center of the castle from the ruins of Sakaguchi-mon Gate. You will climb on the long stone steps to the Secondary Enclosure. The enclosure has the Masugata Entrance which has a square space and is surrounded by stone walls for defense. The enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure where you can look up the stone wall base for the Main Tower including the Imitation Main Tower. You can also enter the Main Enclosure through the restored Main Enclosure Turret Gate.
The long stone steps from the ruins of Sakaguchi-mon GateThe entrance of the Secondary EnclosureLooking up the remaining stone wall base and Imitation Main TowerThe restored Main Enclosure Turret Gate
Alternatively, you can go to the Main Enclosure more easily from the foot of the mountain by using the elevator. This is because the castle is now developed as a modern facility. The Imitation Main Tower is used as a historical museum and observation platform. Inside the tower, you can learn more about the history of the castle and the culture of Karatsu City.
The elevator to the Main EnclosureThe inside of the Main EnclosureThe Imitation Tower used as the historical museum and observation platform
On the top floor, you can enjoy a great 360-degree view of the city. For example, A beautiful pine forest along the beach can be seen over the estuary of Matsuura-gawa River in the east. It is known as Nijino-Matsubara or the Rainbow Pine Forest which Hitotaka Terasawa developed. In fact, the mountain you are standing was connected to the beach before the castle was built. You can also see a view of Genkai-nada Sea in the north, the city area in the south, and the former castle area along the beach to the west.
A view including the Rainbow Pine Forest in the eastGenkai-nada Sea in the northThe Second Enclosure along the beach in the westThe city area and Matsuura-gawa River in the south
Walking around to see what castle was like
If you want to see more about what Karatsu Castle was like in the past, how about walking around the present castle? For example, you can walk along the foot area of the mountain along the coast. This area is called the Belt Enclosure where some turrets on the stone walls were built to prevent attacks from the sea. The stone walls remain and some plaster walls were restored recently on them. You can see these stone walls stand by the shore and they protected the castle strongly.
The Belt Enclosure at foot of the mountainOne of the ruins of the turretsThe stone walls standing by the shore
You can also walk from the mountain to the west along the beach. The area is called the Second Enclosure where many warriors’ houses were built. The area was turned into the city area, but you can see the long stone walls along the enclosure remain. You will also see the water moat dividing the Second and Third Enclosures and the restored Drum Tower at the Second Gate Ruins.
The long stone walls along the Second EnclosureThe moat between the Second and Third EnclosuresThe restored Drum Tower
Now, you can visit the ruins of Kasugayama Castle easily by car. You can also park at the Kasugayama Shrine located on the mid slope of the mountain and go to the top. However, if you have time, how about walking on the original routes from the foot of the mountain?
The whole view of the ruins of Kasugayama Castle
Around Main Route
For example, you can park at the starting point of the Main Route on the way to the shrine. The route was recently developed for visitors, and is about 3.5km to the top, but gently sloped with a laid-back atmosphere. After a while, you will pass beside the ruins of the guard house on a mound. The route gets a little steep and rough and goes through woods and valleys. You will eventually reach a large enclosure called Kakizaki’s Hall. You are near the main portion, so you will arrive at the top after passing Kagekatsu’s Hall and the Well Enclosure.
Around the Main Route
The entrance of the Main RouteThe Main Route with a laid-back atmosphereThe ruins of the guard houseThe Main Route through a forestKakizaki’s HallThe Well Enclosure
Around Back Route
The alternative is to walk on the Back Route which starts from the Lotus Pond in the Atagoyama Park at the northeast foot of the mountain. You will first enter the ruins of the Kurogane-mon Gate and the Hall for the Lord, which are now surrounded by woods. The route becomes winding and steep before reaching the ruins of the Sengan-mon Gate. The gate was very large and defensive with a deep dry moat inside. You will approach the main portion by climbing the zigzagged route on the Belt Enclosure and the Koguchi Entrance. The entrance is said to once be the front of the castle when it was smaller. The inside of the entrance is Naoe’s Hall on the ridge which is the opposite of Kagekatsu’s Hall in the main portion. This route looks like a mountain castle more than the Main Route.
Around the Back Route
The Lotus Pond in the Atagoyama ParkThe ruins of the Kurogane-mon GateThe ruins of the Hall for the LordThe ruins of the Sengan-mon GateThe deep dry moat inside the Sengan-mon GateThe Koguchi EntranceAround Naoe’s Hall
Around Main Enclosure
The Main Enclosure is on the top of the mountain where you can see a good view of the Kubiki Plain and the Japan Sea. The ruins of the Main Tower is next to the Main Enclosure, where it is said a kind of turret actually stood. Some religious facilities also stood around, and only the Bisyamon-do Hall was restored in recent times. Under the Main Enclosure, a lot of enclosures are on the eastern slope of the mountain, such as the Second Enclosure and Kagetora’s Hall. If you look up the top of the mountain from the mid slope, you can see these enclosures still covering the mountain. The Kasugayama Shrine is nearby, and you will see the statue of Kenshin Uesugi.
Around the Main Enclosure
The Main EnclosureA view from the Main EnclosureThe ruins of the Main TowerThe Bisyamon-do HallThe Second EnclosureLooking up the enclosuresThe statue of Kenshin Uesugi
Other Attractions
You can also visit the Kasugayama Castle Historic Site Square where part of the So-gamae outer earthen walls was restored, Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center where you can learn more about the castle and Kenshin, and the Rinsen-ji Temple where Kenshin studied in his childhood near the ruins.
The Kasugayama Castle Historic Site SquareJoetsu City Buried Cultural Property CenterThe Somon Gate of the Rinsen-ji Temple (licensed by ELK via Wikimedia Commons)
杉林に囲まれた城跡
The castle ruins surrounded by a cedar forest
立地と歴史～Location and History
大和三城の一つ～One of Three Greatest Castles in Yamato Province
宇陀松山城は奈良県の北西部、宇陀市にありました。宇陀市は、林業と古い町並みで知られています。大阪市から車で約１時間ほどの場所です。宇陀松山城は最初は「城山」という４７３ｍの高さの山の上に、秋山氏によって築かれました。 Uda-Matsuyama Castle was located in Uda City in the north east part of Nana Prefecture. Uda City is known for its forest industry and old town. The city is approximately one hour by car from Osaka City. The Uda-Matsuyama Castle was first built on a 473m high mountain called “Shiroyama” by the Akiyama Clan.
城の位置～The location of the castle
1585年、豊臣秀長が大和国（現在の奈良県）の統治を始めたとき、彼自身は大和郡山城を居城としていました。一方で、彼は家臣を、支城である高取城と宇陀松山城に派遣しました。その家臣のうち、主には多賀秀種が宇陀松山城を拡張しました。秀種は大和国の東部に領地を持っていて、東にある伊勢国との国境の防衛のため、城を用いていました。 In 1585, when Hidenaga Toyotomi started to govern Yamato Province (what is now Nana Prefecture), he lived in Yamato-Koriyama Castle, while he sent his retainers to Takatori and Uda Matsuyama Castles as his branch castles. Among the retainers was Hidetane Taga, who mainly developed the Uda Matsuyama Castle. Hidetane was granted the eastern part of the province with the intention to use the castle to prepare for the defense of the border between Yamato and Ise Province from the east.
多賀秀種肖像画、石川県立歴史博物館蔵、The portrait of Hidetane Taga, owned by Ishikawa Prefectural History Museum （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
多賀秀種が城を改修～Hidetane Taga improves Castle
秀種は、この城を近世的なスタイルに変えました。城はいくつかの部分に分けられていました。御殿があった「本丸」と天守があった「天守郭」が山頂にありました。天守は、郭の大きさからすると２階か３階建てだったと考えられています。郭周辺の土壌から発掘により多賀氏の家紋が入った瓦が発見されています。 Hidetane changed the castle to an early modern style. The castle was divided into several sections: the Main Enclosure or “Honmaru” with the Main Hall, and Tenshu Enclosure with the Main Tower or “Tenshu” on the top of the mountain. The Main Tower is thought to be two or three stories based on the scale of the enclosure. The roof tiles with Taga Clan’s family crest were found by the excavation of the land around the enclosure.
家紋が入った瓦～A rooftile with the clan’s family crest （宇陀市パンプレットより引用）
「二の丸」や「帯郭」などの他の郭は、城の中心を取り囲んでいました。城の主要部の基礎部分は全て石垣造りで、多くの櫓が立ち並んでいました。城の出入り口である「虎口」は、櫓門や屈曲した通路によって厳重に守られていました。 Other enclosures such as the Second Enclosure or “Ninomaru” and the Belt Enclosure or “Obi-kuruwa” surrounded the center of the castle. The foundation of this main portion was all made of stone walls where a lot of turrets stood. The entrances to the castle called “Koguchi” were guarded strictly by turret gates and zigzagged routes.
阿紀山城図、1593年 、「阿紀山城」は宇陀松山城の古名、現地案内板より～The illustration of Akiyama Castle, in 1593, “Akiyama Castle” is the old name of Udamatsuyama Castle, from the signboard at the site
城は破壊された～Castle is Destroyed
1600年、広島城を治めていた有名な福島正則の弟、福島高晴が、多賀秀種の代わりとして、徳川幕府により宇陀松山城に送られてきました。彼は城を改修するとともに、城下町を整備しました。ところが、1615年に彼は幕府により、幕府に反抗していた豊臣氏を支援した疑いから改易となってしまいます。 In 1600, Takaharu Fukushima, the little brother of the famous lord, Masanori Fukusima who governed Hiroshima Castle, was sent to Uda Matsuyama Castle instead of Hidetane Taga by the Tokugawa Shogunate. He also improved the castle and the castle town, however, in 1615, he was fired by the Shogunate due to suspicions about his support of the Toyotomi Clan who was against the Shogunate.
福島高晴の兄、福島正則肖像画、東京国立博物館蔵～The portrait of Masanori Fukushima, the big brother of Takaharu Fukushima, owned by the Tokyo National Museum （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
その結果、城は完全に破壊されることになり、建物と石垣は撤去され、通路は埋められました。執行者の一人、小堀政一の手紙が残っていて、作業は進んでいるものの、作業者が足りないということが書かれています。 As a result, the castle was completely destroyed removing the buildings and stone walls and burying the routes. A letter written by one of the executors, Masakazu Kobori, remains and says that he was destroying the castle, but lacked enough workers.
小堀政一肖像画、頼久寺蔵、The portrait of Masakazu Kobori, owned by Raikyu-ji Temple （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
特徴～Features
杉林の中を進む～Going through Cedar Forest
以前観光客は宇陀松山城跡へは、市街地にある城の正門であった春日門跡から行くことができました。ところが、2018年の豪雨災害により「大手道」が閉鎖されており、通ることができません（2021年4月現在）。代わりに、まちづくりセンター「千軒舎」の脇道を通って行くことができます。もしかすると、城跡に向かっているのか疑問に思うかもしれません。美しく、よく手入れが行き届いた杉林が見えてくるからです。 Previously, visitors could visit the ruins of Uda-Matsuyama Castle from the Kasuga Gate Ruins in the town area which was the front gate of the castle. However, visitors can no longer do so because the Main Route or “Ote-michi” to the castle is closed (as of January 2021) due to a storm disaster in 2018. Instead, visitors can go through the side road beside the Town Planning Center called “Sengensha”. You may not be sure you are going to the ruins of a castle, as you will see a beautiful, well-maintained cedar forest.
まちづくりセンター「千軒舎」～The Town Planning Center “Sengensha”杉林に囲まれた通路～The route surrounded by the cedar forest
わずかに残る遺跡～Few remaining Ruins
約１０分間登っていくと、城跡の入口に着きます。そこから山道をあと数分を登らねばなりませんが、そうするうちに空堀と櫓門跡が見えてきます。この門は「雀門」と呼ばれ、「桝形」という四角い空間がありました。桝形は、典型的な防御構造で、その四角い空間は櫓や石垣に囲まれていました。敵は、強力な防御の下を屈曲した通路をくぐり抜けねばなりません。 After about a 10-minute climb, you will reach the entrance of the ruins. You have to climb another trail for a few minutes, then you will see the ruins of a dry moat and one of the turret gates. This gate was called “Suzume-mon” which had a square space called “Masugata”. Masugata refers to a typical defensive structure where the square space is surrounded by turrets and stone walls. Enemies have to survive through a zigzagged route under the strong defense.
城跡の入口～The entrance of the castle ruins山道を進みます～Going on the trail空堀～The dry moat雀門跡～The ruins of Suzume-mon Gate
城の中心部分～Center of Castle
この城跡は、杉林によって隠されていて、少し変わった雰囲気があります。門を過ぎた後は、本丸に至るジグザグの道をまた進んでいきます。その道上にまた虎口郭門がありましたが、現在は何の痕跡もありません。本丸は、この城では最も広い郭です。ここには５つの棟を持つ御殿があり、また櫓や石垣に囲まれていました。 These ruins have a bit of a unique atmosphere, hidden from view by the cedar forest. After passing through the gate, you also have to go on another zigzagged route to reach the Main Enclosure. There was also the Entrance Enclosure Gate on the route, but there is no trace of it now. The Main Enclosure is the largest enclosure of the castle. It had the Main Hall with five houses and was also surrounded by turrets and stone walls.
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo around the castle
虎口郭門があったと思われる場所～The place where the Entrance Enclosure Gate seemed to be there本丸～The Main Enclosure
天守郭は、本丸の隣りにあります。ここは山の頂点であり、天守がかつて立っていた天守台石垣の一部分がまだ残っています。頂上からは、杉林に囲まれた他の郭や、遥か彼方の他の山々が見えます。 Tenshu Enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure. It is the highest spot of the mountain and parts of the base of the stone walls still remains where the Main Tower once was. You can now see other enclosures surrounded by the cedar forest and other mountains far away from the top.
天守郭～Tenshu Enclosure天守郭全景、現地案内板より～A whole view of Tenshu Enclosure, from the signboard at the site山頂からの眺め～A view from the top
その後～Later History
宇陀松山城が破壊された後、織田氏がこの地域を治めましたが、城下町の辺りの館に住んでいました。また、春日門跡を修繕して館の門として使用しました。幕府は最終的には織田氏を他の所に移し、直接この地域を統治します。城下町は、商業の町として繁栄を続けました。 After the Uda-Matsuyama Castle was destroyed, the Oda Clan governed this area, but the clan lived in the hall around the castle town. They also repaired and used the Kasuga Gate Ruins as their hall’s gate. The Shogunate lastly governed the area after it transferred the Oda Clan to another place. The castle town continued to prosper as a commercial town.
春日門跡～The ruins of Kasuga-mon Gate （licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons）
1995年、宇陀市は城跡の発掘と研究を始めました。その結果、城には山の上に石垣を使った豪華な建物があったことがわかったのです。発掘の成果により、城跡は2006年に国の史跡に指定されました。 Uda City started to excavate and study the ruins of the castle in 1995. It found out that the castle was built using stone walls and had luxurious buildings on the mountain. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2006 due to the achievement of the excavation.
私の感想～My Impression
発掘や研究の方法は年々進化しています。現在建物がなくても城の建物がどのようなものであったか推測できるのです。今回の訪問と宇陀松山城についての研究により、私は過去にこのような立派な城があったことに本当に驚きました。 The methods of excavation and study have been improving. They have made it possible to speculate what buildings in a castle looked like even if there are no buildings now. From my visit and research about the Uda-Matsuyma Castle, I was actually surprised to learn that there was such a great castle in the past
天守郭の石垣～The stone walls of Tenshu Enclosure
更には、ある城が残るかどうかは、ほんの小さなことで違ってきてしまうことも知りました。宇陀松山城の場合、高晴がもう少し長く持ちこたえていれば、城跡は高取城のように少なくとも石垣くらいはまともに残っていたと思うのです。 In addition, I also learned that whether something of a castle can remain or not is sometimes based on very small things. In the case of the Uda-Matsuyama Castle, if Takaharu survived a little longer, the ruins of the castle would include at least with decent stone walls like Takatori Castle.
発掘された雀門跡周辺の石垣～The excavated stone walls around the ruins of Suzume-mon Gate
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行かれる場合は、南阪奈道路の葛城ICから約４０分かかります。まちづくりセンターに駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、近鉄大阪線の榛原駅から大宇陀行きのバスに乗って、終点で降りてください。 If you wish to visit there by car, it takes about 40 minutes from the Katsuragi IC on Minami-Hanna Road. There is a parking lot at the Town Planning Center. When using the train, take the bus for Ouda from Haibara Station on Kintetsu Osaka Line, and get off at the last stop.
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・宇陀松山城跡、宇陀市（Uda City Official Website） ・鬼面百相、史跡宇陀松山城出土資料展パンフレット（Japanese Pamphlet） ・「日本の城改訂版第１２０号」デアゴスティーニジャパン（Japanese Book）
