38.Iwamura Castle Part1

A great mountain castle with a sad episode

Location and History

One of Three Great Mountain Castles

Iwamura Castle was a large mountain castle which was located in the eastern part of Mino Province (now Gifu Prefecture). The castle has been considered as one of the Three Great Mountain Castles followed by Bicchu-Matsuyama and Takatori Castles. Basically, mountain castles were built during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. However, during the peaceful Edo Period, most castles were moved or rebuilt on plain land for the governor. The Three Great Mountain Castles were rare examples which remained until the end of the Edo Period. In particular, Iwamura Castle had the highest altitude of 717 meters high among the active castles during that time.

The location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle
The ruins of Takatori Castle

Female Lord, Otsuya and her Tragedy

It was said that the Toyama Clan first built the castle in the 13th Century, but it is quite uncertain. Records show the clan used the castle as their home base in the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. The Toyama Clan was one of the local warlord families residing in the area, which became the head of the local lord group called the Iwamura Group. However, the clan was affected by other larger warlords such as the Takeda and Oda Clans. For example, the clan often worked for the Takeda Clan. They often married their wife who belonged to the Oda Clan. This was to ensure balance between the two clans. In 1571, when a lord of the castle died, Nobunaga Oda sent one of his sons as the next lord of the Toyama Clan. The ex-lord’s wife named Otsuya, who came from Oda and Nobunaga’s aunt, actually governed the castle because the new lord was still very young. She has been known as one of the few female lords in Japan.

The family crest of the Iwamura Clan, called Maru-ni-Futatsubiki or Two horizonal lines inside a Circle
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The situation became very serious for Otsuya when Shingen Takeda decided to fight against Nobunaga. This was because her territory was the buffer zone between Shingen and Nobunaga, which both clans wanted to own. Shingen sent his retainer, Torashige Akiyama with troops to capture Iwamura Castle in 1572. The castle was surrounded by the troops, but it survived for a while because it had very good defensive structures. Torashige negotiated an arranged marriage with Otsuya in order to be a part of the Takeda Clan. Otsuya accepted it.

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Torashige Akiyama, attributed to Fuko Matsumoto, owned by Erinji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, Nobunaga was very angry to hear about this. Nobunaga decided to send his troops to Iwamura Castle in 1575 after Shingen had died and the power of the Takeda Clan began to decline especially by the defeat in the battle of Nagashino Castle. The castle was besieged again but survived for 5 months because of its own strength. The attackers negotiated that the defenders could be saved if they surrendered. Torashige and Otsuya accepted this, however, the promise was a lie, so they were executed, which became a big tragedy during the Sengoku Period.

The ruins of Nagashino Castle
The illustration of Iwamura Castle, one of the Shoho Castle Illustrations, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Matsudaira Clan modernizes Castle

After that, several different lords governed the castle. In 1601 after the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, Ienori Matsudaira became the lord of the castle and the founder of the Iwamura Domain. Before his entry, the castle was probably a large and simple mountain castle with its buildings like the Main Hall at a high place. However, Ienori moved the Main Hall to the foot of the mountain to make it more convenient for him. He also modernized the mountain part by building stone walls which surrounded the enclosures. For example, the Main Enclosure on the top had two two-level turrets on the stone walls and two gates, but was empty inside during the late Edo Period. It might have been designed for emergencies like battles. In addition, Ienori also developed the castle town, which still has a good atmosphere to visit now.

The restored gate and turret of the Main Hall at the foot (taken by HiC from photoAC)
Stone walls of Iwamura Castle
The Main Enclosure part of the illustration above
The former castle town of Iwamura (taken by rupann7777777 from photoAC)

To be continued in “Iwamura Castle Part2”

68.備中松山城~Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle

強力な城が山の上に健在です。
The strong castle still remains on the mountain.

立地と歴史~Location and History

山の上に広がった城~Castle spread over Mountain

備中松山(現在の高梁市)は備中国の中心に位置していました(現在の岡山県西部)。中世の初期から多くの領主たちがこの地を重要視し、その帰趨をめぐって互いに争ってきました。
Bicchu-Matsuyama (what is now Takahashi City) was located in the center of Bicchu Province (the western part of now Okayama Prefecture). Many lords considered this area important and battled each other over it since the first Middle Ages.

城の位置と備中国の範囲~The location of the castle and the range of Bicchu Province

備中松山城は最初、臥牛山という4つの峰を持つ山の上に築かれました。初期の城は、大松山という奥の峰に築かれ、そして他の峰にも広がっていきました。私たちが通常備中松山城といっているものは、小松山と呼ばれる手前から二番目の峰に築かれています。
Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle was first built on a mountain called Gagyu-san which has four peaks on it. The first castle was on the back peak called Omatsuyama, then it was spread to the other peaks. What we generally call Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle is on the second peak from the front called Komatsuyama.

城周辺の起伏地図~The relief map around the castle

めまぐるしく変わる城主~Lords were changed several times

戦国時代には、三村氏が主にこの城を確保していました。1561年に、毛利氏の配下であった三村家親が尼子氏からこの城を奪ったのです。それ以来、城をめぐって幾重にも戦いがありました。家親の息子、元親は毛利に反旗を翻し、織田信長と同盟を結びました。しかし1575年毛利氏によって滅ぼされてしまいます。それまでには、小松山がこの城の中心地になっていました。
In the “Sengoku” or Warring States Period, the Mimura Clan mainly held the castle. Iechika Mimura under the Mori clan took away the castle from the Amago clan in 1561. Since then, several battles happened over the castle. Iechika’s son, Motochika formed an alliance with Nobunaga Oda against Mori, but was lastly beaten by Mori in 1575. The Komatsuyama peak became the center of the castle until then.

三村氏の家紋「剣片喰」~The family crest of the Mimura Clan(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

その後、この城は毛利の重要拠点でしたが、1600年の関ヶ原の戦いにおける毛利の敗戦により、徳川幕府に奪われてしまいます。城は一旦放棄されますが、江戸時代になって小堀、水谷といった大名が城と城下町を統治しました。城は再び修理され、拡張され、そして完成したのです。
After that, the castle was an important site for Mori, but it was taken by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1600 due to Mori’s loss in the battle of Sekigahara. The castle seemed to be once in ruin. In the Edo Period, several lords such as the Kobori and the Mizunoya clans governed the castle and castle town. They repaired, improved, and completed the castle again.

城主の一人、水谷勝隆肖像画、高梁市歴史美術館蔵~The Portrait of Katsutaka Mizunoya, one of the lords, ownd by Takahashi City History Museum(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

山裾に御殿~Hall on Foot of the Mountain

大名たちは通常山の麓にある御根小屋と呼ばれた御殿に住んでいました。政治を行うのに便利だったからです。江戸時代後半には、人々は麓にある御殿を「御城」と呼び始め、山の上にある方を「御山城」としていました。
They usually lived in the main hall called Onegoya on the foot of the mountain, because it was convenient for governance. In the late Edo Period, people started to refer to the hall on the foot as “the Castle” than the castle on the mountain as “the Mountain Castle”.

備中国松山城絵図部分、江戸時代~Part of the illustration of Bicchu-matsuyama Castle in Bicchu Province, in the Edo Period(出典:国立公文書館)

特徴~Features

城への道のり~Route to the Castle

城周辺の地図~The map around the castle

(自分でそこしか行っていないため、今回は小松山の峰にある備中松山城の主要部分のみご紹介します。)
車で備中松山城に行かれる場合は、山を登る途中の駐車場に車を停めなければいけません。そして、そこからシャトルバスに乗り換えるか歩くのです。シャトルバスは、一番手前の峰、前山近くのふいご峠まで行きます。そこからは誰しもが城まで歩くことになります。中太鼓櫓跡を通って、約30分の道のりです。
( I will introduce only the main part of Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle on Komatsuyama peak, because I have only been there.) If you drive to Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle, you have to park at the parking lot half-way up the mountain. Then, you will transfer to the shuttle bus or walk. The shuttle bus goes to Fuigo Pass near the front peak called Maeyama. Everyone has to climb up from the pass to the castle. it takes about 30 minutes on foot going through the ruins of Nakadaiko Turret.

中太鼓櫓跡~The ruins of Nakadaiko Turret
城に至る山道~The trail to the castle

素晴らしい石垣~Wonderful stone walls

城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo of around the castle

石垣と自然石の組み合わせに驚かれるかもしれませんが、そこは三の丸の入口である大手門の跡になります。三の丸からは、二の丸へと続く、折れ曲がり且つ石垣に囲まれた通路が続きます。これも壮観です。二の丸に至ると、いよいよ本丸が見えてきます。
You may be surprised to see the combination of stone walls and natural stones. It’s the ruins of the Main or Ote-mon Gate which is the entrance of the Third Enclosure or “Sannomaru”. From the Sannomaru, you will also see the route to the Second Enclosure or “Ninomaru” zigzagged and surrounded by stone walls. It also looks great. In the Ninomaru, you can finally see the Main Enclosure or “Honmaru”.

大手門跡~The ruins of the Main or Ote-mon Gate
二の丸に続く通路~The route to the Second Enclosure
二の丸から見た本丸~The Main Enclosure from the Second Enclosure

本丸と天守~Main Enclosure and Main Tower

本丸には天守と3基の櫓があります。天守は、日本で12ある現存天守の内の一つで、山城の中では唯一のものです。2階建てで高さは11mありますが、12天守の中では最小です。しかし、ごつごつした岩山とよくマッチして重厚に見えます。
Honmaru has the Main Tower or “Tenshu” and three turrets. The Tenshu is one of the 12 remaining ones in Japan and the only one on mountain castles. It is two stories and 11m high which is the smallest one among the 12 Tenshu. However, it matches the rocky top of the mountain and looks heavy.

本丸~The Main Enclosure
天守~The Main Tower

櫓は2階建てのものが一つと、単層のものが二つあります。よく調和しています。天守の中には入ることができ、内部は簡素で実用的です。1階には、囲炉裏と城主のための装束部屋があります。2階には神棚があり、一説には最後の時を迎える時のために準備されたものといいます。頂上からの眺めがよいことは言うまでもありません。
The turrets are also a two story one and two single story ones. They have a good valance. You can enter Tenshu. The inside of it is simple and practical. There is a fireplace and a dressing room for the lord at the first floor. The second floor has a Shinto altar. It is said that they were prepared for the lord’s last battle. Of course, the views from the top are very good!

天守の正面~The front of the Main Tower
天守1階~The first floor
天守2階~The second floor
本丸奥にある二階櫓~The two story turret at the back of the Main Enclosure
本丸からの眺め~A view from the Main Enclosure

その後~Later History

明治維新後、備中松山城は廃城となり、御根小屋の建物は撤去されましたが、山上の建物はなるがままにされました。そして、荒廃していきます。昭和初期になって、教師であった信野友春が城跡を調査し、結果を刊行しました。そのことにより、高梁町が城の保存に動き出したのです。ついに1956年には重要文化財に指定されました。
After the Meiji Restoration, Bicchu-Matsuyama Castle was abandoned and the buildings in Onegoya were demolished, but the buildings on the mountain were left as it would be. As a result, they were in ruin again. In the first Showa Era, a teacher, Tomonaru Shinano investigated the castle and reported to the public. Because of it, Takahashi Town started to preserve the castle. It was lastly designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1956.

三の丸の土塀も重要文化財です~The Important Cultural Property also includes this earthen walls at the Third Enclosure

私の感想~My Impression

たくさんの人たちが山上の見事な城を維持するために大変な努力を払ってきたことに驚きました。いつの日か(山麓から山の全ての峰までの)全城域を巡ってみたいです。
It is surprising to know that many people have made great efforts to keep such a great castle on the mountain. I hope I can visit the whole castle area (from the foot to all the peaks of the mountain) someday.

大松山城跡~The castle ruins of Omatsuyama peak(taken by あけび from photoAC)

ここに行くには~How to get There

シャトルバス乗り場近くの駐車場まで:
車で行かれる場合は、山陽自動車道賀陽ICから約30分かかります。
バスで行かれる場合は、備中高梁駅から約10分かかります。
東京、名古屋または大阪から備中高梁駅まで:新幹線で岡山駅まで行き、伯備線に乗り換えてください。
To the parking lot near the shuttle bus terminal:
If you want to go there by car, it takes about 30 minutes from the Kayo IC on Sanyo Expressway.
If you want to go there by bus, it takes about 10 minutes from Bicchu-Takahashi Station.
From Tokyo, Nagoya, or Osaka to Bicchu-Takahashi Station: Take the Shinkansen super express and transfer to Hakubi local line at Okayama Station.

リンク、参考情報~Links and References

備中松山城、高梁市公式ホームページ(Takahashi City Website)
・「歴史街道スペシャル、名城を歩く22、備中松山城」PHP研究所(Japanese Book)
・「よみがえる日本の城5」学研(Japanese Book)