earthen wall – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

205.Matsuoyama Castle Part2

Features

Introduction

This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned. In addition, as for the encampments of the Western Allies, we will visit them not only based on the defacto theory but also based on the new theories. Ogaki Castle may be a good starting point because the battle happened just after Mitsunari Ishida left the castle. You can see some exhibitions of him and the Sekigahara Battle in its restored main tower which has become a historical museum. Sekigahara Station is just few minutes from Ogaki Station.

Tour to Encampments of Western Allies based on Defacto Theory

It will be easy for visitors to visit the encampments based on the defacto theory because there are lots of information boards (also written in English). “Sekigahara Historical Landmark Tour” map, provided by the Sekigahara tourist association secretariat, will also help you. The following link is available in English.
(https://www.sekigahara1600.com/download/file/20200109155151.pdf)
So, let us first go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida on Sasaoyama Mountain, based on the defacto theory.

It may be better to go towards the Battle Site Memorial before reaching the mountain because you can find it easily. You can see the mountain where the flag of Mitsunari’s encampment stands.

The Battle Site Memorial, The flag on the right is Ieyasu’s family crest, while the flag on the left is Mitsunari’s family crest

Sasaoyama Mountain seen from the Battle Site Memorial, Notice the tiny white flags on the mountain

If you reach the foot of the mountain, you will eventually see that it was the encampment of Shima Sakon who was Mitsunari’s senior vassal. In fact, there is no evidence which proves that the mountain was certainly their encampments. The current historical sites were designated by the officials during the Meiji Era, probably based on the local traditions of the Edo Period. However, the top of the mountain looks suitable for the stronghold. You can see a panoramic view from the top, including Nangusan Mountain on the left, where Hiroie Kikkawa was positioned, and Matsuoyama Mountain on the right, where Hideaki was positioned. If Mitsunari would have been on the top, he would have been able to see any suspicious actions by the lord.

The stone monument of Mitsnari’s encampment

The view from the mountain, The mountain on left is Nangusan and the mountain on the right is Matsouyama

Our next target will be the grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani, after passing the encampments of other lords of the Western Allies, such as Yoshihiro Shimazu, Yukinaga Konishi, and Hideie Ukita. You need to walk for few kilometers to reach the target. However, some soldiers who joined the battle testified that the lords were positioned together in the range of only few hundreds of meters. This is another mystery that his often debated by historians and experts.

You will eventually enter the Yamanaka area (which directly means “mountain area”), not like the Sekigahara field. There are actually some ruins of encampments, made by soil, which Yoshitsugu might have built. His grave is in the area, which is said that his retainer originally buried his head there. Takatora Todo, who had been his enemy, heard about it and developed the grave as we can see now. There are always offerings (such as flowers) in front of the grave, from his fans. This is probably because of his episodes in the battle. Yoshitsugu joined the Western Allies because of his friendship with Mitsunari but was defeated by the betrayal of Hideaki (according to the defacto theory).

Tour to the Encampments of the Western Allies based on New Theories

Let us next go to the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani from his grave nearby.
His encampment has been designated based on the defacto theory while a new theory says it was, in fact, that of the Shimazu troops. By the way, there is the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain near the encampment as well. You can see the flag of Hideaki’s encampment from that spot. I think the view is one of the reasons why Yoshitsugu’s encampment was designated nearby in the defacto theory. The theory says Yoshitsugu was positioned in order to better monitor the betrayal of Hideaki. On the other hand, in the new theory, Yoshitsugu was actually in the Sekigahara field, so another lord was expected to use the encampment instead of him.

The flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa on Matsuoyama Mountain, seen from the view spot

We will next go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida, based on the new theory, after climbing down the mountain area. If you walk on the Old Nakasendo Road, you will eventually see a hill up ahead, which is the encampment, called “Jigai-ga-oka”. The hill is also a historical site of Jinshin War during the Ancient Time, called “Jigai-mine-no-sanbon-sugi” which means “The three cedars on Suicide Hill”. A tradition says as followed:
Prince Otomo was defeated by Prince Oama during the war and killed himself in another place. People around the hill, who loved him, got his head and buried in the hill. The three cedars are said to be the mark, which you can visit and see.

The three cedars on Suicide Hill, The two remaining cedar trees are not accessible however, because they have a chain fence around them

There is one more spot regarding both the Sekigahara Battle and the Jinshin War, after going on the road over Fujikogawa River. You can find Fuwanoseki Museum, which are the ruins of Fuwanoseki (which means Fuwa Gateway). The new theory says this spot was the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani. In the Jinshin War, the gateway was the border between the forces of Otomo (the west) and Oama (the east). In the Sekigahara Battle, Sekigahara (which directly means “gateway field”) was that of the Western and Eastern Allies.

Fujikogawa River in the front and Fuwanoseki Museum on the hill in the back

The Fuwanoseki Museum as the ruins of Fuwa Gateway, which might have also been the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani, The white flag says “Fuwa Gate” while the red flag says “Jinshin War”

We will get closer to Matsuoyama Mountain. There are lots of flags of the Kobayakawa Clan at its entrance. It has a nice atmosphere.

The entrance to Matsuoyama Mountain as the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, The yellow flags show the family crest of Kobayakawa. The 4 flags on the left show two sickles crossing each other.

Going to Matsuoyama Mountain

Matsuoyama Mountain is 293m above sea level and about 200m above the foot of the mountain. If you drive your car, you can park it at the foot. The trail to the top is part of Tokai Natural Trail, which has been well developed. The number of Hideaki’s troops were said to be about 8,000 to 15,000. They were probably stationed from the foot all the way to the top. If the Toi-deppo story is true, the soldiers at the foot would have been able to hear it.

The starting point of the trail, Notice the basket of sticks which is free for visitors to use. Make sure you return it to the original basket after using it

Matsuoyama Castle is often called the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, in fact, it was a full-scale castle. It had the main enclosure on the top and several other enclosures on its ridges. They were surrounded by earthen walls one by one and were divided by dry moats from each other. It also had ditches on the ridges and vertical moats on the slopes in order to prevent enemies from invading it. The castle was mostly fortified by the Western Allies just before the Sekigahara Battle. It was done using natural terrain and construction with soil.

The diorama of Matsuoyama Castle, exhibited by Sekigahara Town History
& Folklore Museum

The trail looks like a well-developed forest road before turning into a fork. There is a sign which says 850m to the top. As you get close to the top, the trail goes beside a ridge which was the eastern enclosure of the castle. If you were an enemy back then, you would have been attacked by the defenders above.

Turn right, at the flag, Notice the drain on the road. When it rains, the water flows down the mountain, and goes to the drains

The trail goes beside the eastern enclosure

You will eventually see several flags standing on the main enclosure of the top above. One of them is that of Hideaki Kobayakawa’s encampment, which you saw from the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain. The view from the top is so nice that you will be encouraged to stop and stare for a while. It would have been the view of Kobayakawa according to the defacto theory.

The flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa

The view of the Sekigahara field from the top of Matsuoyama Mountain, It would have been great if the town decided to cut the trees so that viewers could get a better view of Sekigahara Field

Is it a Castle or is it an Encampment?

Let us check out if Matsuoyama Castle is worth for a full-scale castle at the site. In fact, the opposite side of the trail we climbed looks more fortified, according to the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle. (unfortunately, the pamphlet is only available in Japanese)
We will enter the castle from the side.

The layout of the castle (from the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle), we first came from above

The path of the entrance gets narrower by being cut by the ditches on both sides. You will next pass an enclosure like a position, which is called the enclosure like Umadashi (the position which sticks out from the gate).

The path gets narrower again and wind towards the main enclosure. The entrance of the main enclosure is a square, surrounded by earthen walls, which is generally called Masugata. The route you walked on right now may be the front of the castle, where Hideaki might have also been at.

The path goes close to the main enclosure, Notice the wooden steps that were added later on by the town

The Masugata system at the entrance of the enclosure

You can also walk down to the dry moats surrounding the main enclosure, from the front of the Masugata system. You will see the vertical cliffs on the slopes of the enclosure, which were artificially cut for defense, on the way to the moats. The bottom of the moats looks spacious tough it is covered with trees and grass now. Historians speculate that it was used as passages or stations for soldiers. The moats also have earthen walls like normal enclosures have.

The vertical cliffs, Notice the narrow road partially covered in plants. On the right, is the artificially cut soil, in order ot make the slope steeper for the enemies

The earthen walls on the moat, Notice the sign in Japanese saying “altered earthen walls”

Finally, we will climb another enclosure on a hill, the opposite of the main enclosure. The top of the enclosure is leveled, probably in order to accommodate soldiers in the past. Overall, Matsuoyama Castle must have been a large basement for the Sekigahara Battle. I have confirmed that it was not only a simple encampment but also a full-scale castle.

My Impression

After visiting the Sekigahara area, I think it still has a mysterious vibe and can accept adventurous spirits with many theories. In addition, I also learned that the area has a long history including the gateway and battle between eastern and western Japan since the ancient time. In fact, the battle between them still continues today in the category of noodles. You can buy two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan there at the souvenir shop. Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is a very popular spot for visitors where you can learn about the battle and buy other souvenirs. You can also get Goshuin stamps (you can stamp a piece of paper to commemorate your experience) of the encampments you visited there; However, you will need to show the pictures to the counter staff as evidence.

The Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum

The two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan, The left is the “western type” while the one on the right is the “eastern type”.

The Goshuin stamps for three encampments, The left is the grave of Otani, the center represents Matsuoyama Mountain, and finally the one the right is Sasaoyama

That’s all. Thank you.

Back to “Matsuoyama Castle Part1”

23.Odawara Castle Part2

I think that the bast way to feel what Odawara Castle was during the Sengoku Period, would be to wak the So-gamae structure. Therefore, this article will show you how to walk around the So-gamae in the current Odawara City.

Features

Rare Remaining So-Gamae structures on Plain Area

Unfortunately, there are only a few remaining structures of So-gamae on the plain city area. First of all, it might y be better to walk the old Tokaido Road to the east. The starting point would be Matsubara Shrine, or a rest station called “Odawarajuku-Nariwai-Koryukan”, which are located at the center of the old transportation hub of Odawara.

It would be more comfortable to go on Kamaboko Street, where there are many traditional Japanese fish cake (which is called Kamaboko) shops are located, which is also similar to the route of the old Tokaido Road during the Sengoku Period. If you walk along the street for a while, you will eventually reach Hojo Inari Shrine. The shrine was built by the Hojo Clan and at the southeast corner of the So-gamae structure.

If you turn left to the north of the shrine, you will soon find the ruins of Edoguchi-mitsuke (which means the gate to Edo). The gate was the eastern entrance of Odawara Transportation Hub during the Edo Period. It was also the Sannoguchi Gate of the So-gamae structure earlier on. Therefore, the partitions of the gate were used until the end of the Edo Period.

In addition, there is also Sanno Shrine, which is little far from the gate ruins, which was a defensive position of the Hojo Clan outside the So-mgamae during the Battle of Odawara. The only direct fighting during the battle happened at this site.

The ground of the shrine looks like a defensive position

If you go on the path beside the gate ruins, you will eventually arrive at one of the few remaining structures of So-Gamae in the city area. It is called, Renjoin Temple Earthen Walls, which is about 100m long and about 3m high. It was originally set with a moat and more defensive than this single unit. You will see a large dent on the walls, which was caused by the Odawara air raid in 1945 during World War II. The ruins had a long history through the multiple periods.

Remaining Structures on the Hill Areas

An easy way to the So-gamae structure on the hill area is to go on the opposite street of a park, called “Medaka-no-gakko”. The street will go up on Yatsu Hill, one of the hill areas behind the Odawara city area. You will eventually find the ruins of Shiroshita-Haridashi. Haridashi refers to the overhanging part of the So-gamae structure. The defenders could have lookout point of the attackers and could counterattack the side from the site. The remaining structure is the base of the overhanging part. That’s why the line forms a right angle.

You can also look around the remaining dry moats along the hill. However, most of them are currently farms now, where visitors are not allowed to enter.

If you continue to go along the street for a while, you will eventually encounter a three-way intersection. Turn right at the intersection, then you will be able to travel on the So-gamae structure easily.

After a while, you will be at Yamanokami-Horikiri. Horikiri refers to a ditch separating a hill in order to avoid the enemies from attacking through the hill. If you go to the bottom edge of the Horikiri, you will find the dry moat of the So-gamae structure touching the Horikiri at right angles. However, the moat is much deeper than the Horikiri. That means the enemies that fell inside the moat, would not be able to invade the Horikiri easily.

Looking at the moat of the So-gamae structure from the edge of the Horikiri ditch

Looking up the earthen walls of the So-gamae structure and the ditch from the bottom of the moats

Next comes Inari-mori (which is the town name). At this site, the earthen walls and dry moats of the So-gamae makes a dent inwards along the natural terrain. The outside of the depression looks like an isolated island. The Hojo Clan also built earthen walls on the island in part to not allow enemies to stay there. This site is one of the most intact parts of the So-gamae structure. The moats managed to keep their original conditions of about 10m deep and over 50-degree slant. This is probably why the visitors are kept out from the moats by ropes and poles.

Large Ditchies of Komine Okane-no-dai, Highlight of So-gamae Structure

The northern part of Odawara City is surrounded by the three hill areas: Hachimanyama, Tenjinyama, and Yatsu. Komine Okane-no-dai hill is part of the Hachimanyama hill area and the highest among the areas. Therefore, the hill was the most important spot for the Hojo Clan in terms of protecting Odawara Castle from invasion. The clan eventually separated the hill by building three ditches. If you walk from the Inarimori Ruins along the So-gamae structure, you will reach the intersection to the three ditches. If you turn right, you will be at the western ditch, left to the eastern ditch, or if you keep going straight, it will lead to the central one.

The western ditch is at the outermost area on the hill, which was originally over 200m long, but is now only 150m long. It was built just before the Battle of Odawara. The ditch seems to get shallower and gentler compared to the original condition. However, if you look at the bottom of it, you can still see something that resembles partitions, which may be the traces of the Shoji-bori system. The edge of the ditch is still connected to the moat of the So-gamae structure.

Next comes the central ditch, which was built at the same time as the western one. The bottom of the ditch is now used as a modern road. You can still see some of the earthen walls around it remaining. A connecting road between this ditch and the eastern ditch still exists.

You will finally arrive at the eastern ditch, which has been developed as a park. You can easily walk the bottom of it. This ditch is the most intact one among the three ditches, which is 280m long and 25 to 30m wide, the same as the original conditions. It is currently 8 to 10m deep, but it was originally about 12m with the Shoji-bori system. Its slant is about 50 degrees, which may be the same as original one, too. The bottom of the ditch is not straight but rather curved, which made it difficult for enemies to walk through smoothly.

The ditch seen from its earthen walls around

Where is the goal of the So-gamae?

You will eventually go down on the hill to the New Moats and Earthen Walls of the Outer Third Enclosure. This place is where Ujimasa Hojo launched the constructions of the So-gamae structure. You can see a great view to the west from there, including Ishigakiyama Mountain where Hideyoshi Toyotomi built his Ishigakiyama Castle during the Battle of Odawara Castle. There is another interesting story where the Hojo side was very surprised to see the completion of Ishigakiyama Castle after all the trees around were cut down, called “Ichiyajo” which means “one night castle” (a castle that only took one night to build). However, the story may be doubtful because the castle ruins can clearly be seen from the site. In addition, please be mindful that the site closes at 3:00 PM, which is much earlier than other historical sites.

The New Moats and Earthen Walls of Outer Third Enclosure

You need to check out the opening hours of the site

You will next walk down to the Tenjinyama hill area. This area also has walls of the So-gamae, called the Earthen Walls, at the west of Denjoji Temple. The walls are located in front of the elevated railways of the Shinkansen (bullet train) and used as a graveyard. If you look up the site from below, you will realize this structure uses natural terrain as well.

After returning to the city area, you should also check out Hayakawa-guchi Ruins (Guchi means entrance or route), one of the few remaining items of the So-gamae structure on the plain area. The Hayakawa-guchi entrance was the front line to the west, where the Toyotomi troops attacked from. Therefore, the entrance was fortified heavily by doubled earthen walls and moats. If you enter the ruins, which have been developed as a park, you will eventually find that the park is sandwiched between the remaining doubled walls.

Other than that, you will be able to find other remaining earthen walls of the So-gamae structure, which are used as the bases of the modern residences along the seaside. If you find one of them, you will be able to understand that these structures were built on such a place and are still intact for the modern facilities to use. This will conclude the tour of the So-gamae structure.

This base of the modern residence uses the earthen walls of the So-gamae structure (its stone walls were probably added later on)

To be continued in “Odawara Castle Part3”

18.Hachigata Castle Part2

In this article, let us simulate walking from the outer southern edge of the castle through the center to the tip.

Features

Castle becomes Hachigata Castle Park

Today, the ruins of Hachigata Castle have widely been developed as Hachigata Castle Park of about 5 hectare.s Many people visit to see the historical artifacts on display in the castle, as well as enjoy walking and relaxing in a nature setting. For example, there is a big cherry blossom tree which has recently become popular, called “Ujikuni Sakura (Cherry Blossom)”, named after the lord of the castle, Ujikuni Hojo. I recommend you allow yourself enough time to walk around the park to check the important artifacts of the castle and hopefully discover more interesting things to you. In this article, let us simulate walking from the outer southern edge of the castle (the outside of the Third Enclosure) through the center (the Main Enclosure) to the tip (near the meeting point of the rivers).

The big cherry blossom tree, “Ujikuni Sakura”

The front of the castle is near the railway crossing between the path and the Hachiko Line. The path after the crossing will divide into three – the centeral paved one which visitors usually go, the right one which was the Main Route, and the left one which leads to the Third Enclosure. The first route is convenient for casual visitors, however, we will take the second and third this time, in order to follow the original routes as closely as possible.

The map around the castle, the red broken line shows the route similar to the original Main Route and the blue broken line shows the route to the Third Enclosure

Going on Main Route

The right Main Route goes over some large deep moats beside the Main Route Enclosure, which could have been defensive.

The moat beside the entrance of the route (on the left)

The route next turns left at a square Umadashi enclosure, which was the key to the castle’s defenses. From there, it goes towards the center of the castle and finally reaches the border of the Third and then Second Enclosures.

The route turns left at the Umadashi Enclosure

The part of the Main Route in the castle diorama

You can see another Umadashi enclosure from the outside at the point, but originally, the route would have passed through it.

Another Umadashi is outside on the right

The route goes straight to the Second Enclosure, not thought the Umadashi

The route passed thought the Umadashi according to the diorama

Going to Third Enclosure via Suwa Enclosure

The left route is currently the approach to Suwa Shrine, also called the Suwa Enclosure. It is a square patch of land, still surrounded by earthen walls and deep dry moats, which are obviously a type of Umadashi system.

The earthen walls surrounding the enclosure

Another narrow path connects one side of the Umadashi to the entrance of the Third Enclosure, which looks very defensive. These are typical of the Hachigata Castle defense system.

Going from Umadashi of the Suwa Enclosure to the Third Enclosure

The entrance of the Third Enclosure, viewed from inside

The part of the Suwa Enclosure, the red arrow indicates the direction of the current route

Third Enclosure as Important Site

The Third Enclosure is the highest point of the castle. Tall, thick earthen walls, supported by stone mounds inside, (looking like stone walls), surround the enclosure. These structures were restored in the present time based on excavation records. A four-legged gate was also restored based on the research. Other evidence of buildings like halls has not been found so far, but the enclosure must have been important for the castle.

The earthen walls, supported by stone mounds, surround the enclosure

To be continued in “Hachigata Castle Part3”
Back to “Hachigata Castle Part1”