141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1

The castle in a small town had a hard history.

Location and History

Endo Clan first builds it as Stronghold for battle

Gujo-Hachiman town is well known for its attractions such as an old street atmosphere, the beauties of nature, and the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the summer. It was originally the castle town of Gujo-Hachiman Castle which was first built on Ushikubi-yama Mountain back in 1559. At that time during the Sengoku Period, almost all the people in Japan had to protect themselves and govern their communities all by themselves. In a small region called Gujo District in the northern mountain part of Mino Province, which is now the modern day Gujo City in Gifu Prefecture, the Endo and Tou Clans battled each other over the district. Eventually, the Endo Clan would win and their stronghold for the battle directly became Gujo-Hchiman Castle. The name “Hachiman” originates from a shrine’s name which the clan established at the foot of the mountain. The castle was said to be a simple mountain castle made of soil.

Gujo-Hachiman town with the beauties of nature

The location of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

Yoshitaka Endo, the lord of the castle in the late 16th Century, had to work under other greater warlords in the Chubu Region, such as the Saito Clan and the Oda Clan. This was because lords of small regions did not power, therefore, needed to be guaranteed by great warlords in order to maintain their territories. On the other hand, they also needed to find out the next leader whom they would be working under. In the case of Yoshitaka, he supported Nobutaka Oda in Gifu Castle, who fought against Hideyoshi Toyotomi and was defeated in 1583. Unfortunately, he made a bad choice and surrendered to Hideyoshi. He was once overlooked, however he was eventually transferred from the lord of Gujo-Hachiman Castle to a much smaller territory by Hideyoshi in 1588.

The family crest of the Endo Clan, called Kikko ni Hanabishi or A diamond shaped flower in a tortoise shell  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Inaba Clan’s Modernization and Endo Clan’s revenge

After that, Sadamichi Inaba became the lord of the Gujo-Hachiman Castle and started to renovate and modernize the castle by building stone walls around the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain. The enclosure had the stone wall base for a Main Tower on it, but it was uncertain weather or not the Main Tower was built. It was also surrounded by the Belt Enclosures with tripled stone walls. Moreover, the back of the Main Enclosure which was the part connecting to other mountains was separated by doubled deep ditches. Gujo-Hachiman Castle became a strong castle protected not only by natural terrain but also by the advanced structures.

The portrait of Sadamichi Inaba, owned by Gekkeiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

On the other hand, Yoshitaka Endo was waiting to recover. The chance to recover came in 1600 when the battle of Sekigahara would take place. He found out that Sadamichi Inaba supported the Western squad, therfore, he decided to join the Eastern squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa. He began attacking Gujo-Hachiman Castle after Ieyasu’s approval in advance of Sekigahara. Both troops by Yoshitaka and Sadamichi fought a hard battle, especially in the back of the Main Enclosure. The castle survived most lilely because it got much stronger than Yoshitaka underestimated the strength of the castle. However, Yoshitaka eventually got the castle back in the end as the Eastern squad was victorious in the Battle of Sekigahara. Yoshitaka became the founder of the Gujo Domain under the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The picture of the battle at Gujo-Hachiman Castle in 1600, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

Gujo uprising before Government by Aoyama Clan

A big incident happened in the Gujo Domain, which was called the Gujo uprising, in 1758 when the Kanamori Clan governed following the Endo and Inoue Clans. Yorikane Kanamori was the lord of the domain and had an important role for the shogunate which cost a lot of money. Unfortunatelly, his domain was relatively small and had lower income than what he needed. Therefore, he decided to raise the tax rate by changing how to estimate the amount of harvested rice with the cooperation from some high class officers of the shogunate. This made farmers in the domain very angry, together in the rice warehouse at the foot of the mountain. They submitted a petition asking not to raise the tax. However, the domain refused this petition. So then the farmers brought this action in the lord in Edo, a member of shogun’s council of elders, and finally the shogun itself. This incident resulted in many farmers being executed, some shogunate officers were also displaced, and the Kanamori Clan were fired from the lord of the Gujo Domain.

The family crest of the Kanamori Clan, called Ura Umebachi or Back of a plum flower inside pots (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The monument of the Gujo uprising (licensed by のりまき via Wikimedia Commons)

The Aoyama Clan followed the lord of the domain caring for farmers so that another incident would not happen. The clan also allowed people to dance in the town freely, which was said to be the origin of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival. As for the Gujo-Hachiman Castle, the clan moved the center of the castle from the top of the mountain to the Second Enclosure at the foot, where the Main Hall was. This was a typical way for the lords in the Edo Period to govern their domain in the peaceful time. As a result, the Second Enclosure was turned into the Main Enclosure. The former Main Enclosure was then divided into the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure.

The family crest of the Aoyama Clan, called Aoyama Zeni or The Aoyama coin (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
The statues of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the town
The miniature model of Gujo-Hachiman Castle and its castle town in the Edo Period, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

To be continued in “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part2”

87.Hizen-Nagoya Castle Part3

Was only Hideyoshi to the blame for the war?

Features

Let’s walk around “Back side of Castle”

You can also look down and admire the Yugeki-maru Enclosure and the Second Enclosure to the west from the Main Enclosure. The former one was used as the accommodation for the envoys from the Ming Dynasty. Its name “Yugeki” comes from the position of one of the envoys. The latter has the ruins of many stone steps called Aisaka, which were used by the soldiers to quickly climb up or down the stone walls.

The map around the Second Enclosure

Tthe Yugeki-maru Enclosure seen from the Main Enclosure
The inside of the Yugeki-maru Enclosure
Tthe Secpmd Enclosure seen from the Main Enclosure
the ruins of many stone steps called Aisaka in the Second Enclosure

If you want to go there from the Main Enclosure, you need to go out from the Back Gate ruins and walk around passing through the Mizute Route and the Funate Route.

The route from the Main Enclosure to the Second Enclosure written on the picture of the miniature model of Hizen-Nagoya Castle exhibited by the Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum
the Back Gate ruins of the Main Enclosure
Below the Mizute Enclosure around the Mizete Route
Going around the Yugeki-maru Enclosure
The entrance of the Second Enclosure, around the Funate Route

If you look up the stone walls of the Main Enclosure from these enclosures, you can see the stone walls were destroyed like a V letter very well. This is because the officials restored them just after they were destroyed intentionally.

Looking up the Main Tower base of the Main Enclosure from the Yugeki-maru Enclosure
The stone walls are preserved as just after being destroyed

Later History

After Hizen-Nagoya Castle was abandoned, all the buildings were demolished. It is said that part of them was used for the construction of Karatsu Castle. Many parts of the stone walls were destroyed intentionally as mentioned above. Historians speculate the destruction occurred for the following reasons:
It may have been due to the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate; the Shogunate might have broken the stone walls so they could not to be used by rebels against the Shogunate (like Shimabara Rebellion); or it might have been done to show a good partnership to the Korean envoys.
The ruins have been designated as a National Special Historic Site since 1955.

Karatsu Castle
The destroyed stone walls of the Yugeki-maru Enclosure

My Impression

Many Japanese people now tend to avoid thinking of the invasion of Korea by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. They also think the war was caused by Hideyoshi’s own crazy idea, considering the current relationship with Korea. However, I think many Japanese people wanted to get more territory at that time. Even Hideyoshi was not able to build such a huge-scale castle without the people’s cooperation. I also think we cannot build a real friendship with foreign countries without sharing real history.
If you have time, I recommend visiting some of the ruins of other lords’ military positions around the castle. I regret I was only able to go to one of them after visiting Hizen-Natgoya Castle.

The entrance of the Back Route
The stone walls below the Back Route
The ruins of the military position of Hideyori Mori

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the ruins.
It is about 30 minutes away from Karatsu IC on the Nishi-Kyushu Expressway.
You can park at the parking lot of Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum.

The Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum
Around the parking lot of the museum

Links and References

Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hizen-Nagoya Castle Part1”
Back to “Hizen-Nagoya Castle Part2”

87.Hizen-Nagoya Castle Part1

Hideyoshi’s largest and last ambition

Location and History

Huge Battle Castle for invasion of Korea

Hizen-Nagoya Castle was a battle castle to support for the invasion of Korea by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, located in the northwestern part of Kyushu Island. Hideyoshi is known as for the ruler who achieved his the unification of Japan in the late 16th Century. He completed it to by defeating the Hojo Clan at Odawara Castle, known as the siege of Odawara in 1590. However, soon after the unification, he declared he would conquer China and ordered the lords throughout Japan to prepare for it in 1591. Many lords and warriors under him also supported his plan to get more territory. They were not able to get new territory in Japan after the unification because there were no more battles.

The location of the castle

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Odawara Castle

Hideyoshi also ordered the lords to build a battle castle on Kyushu Island near Korea, known as Hizen-Nagoya Castle. Battle castles were basically used only once and usually simple. Hideyoshi once built another gorgeous battle castle known as Ishigakiyama Castle during the siege of Odawara. However, Hizen-Nagoya Castle was much larger and stronger; it was the second largest just after Hideyoshi’s home base, Osaka Castle. The construction of the castle, divided among the lords, took only 8 months. About 120 lords gathered and also built their own military positions around the castle. The place where the castle was built had originally been a fishing village. However, it became one of the largest cities in Japan in a very short time. Nearly 200,000 soldiers were sent from the castle city to Korea, and over 100,000 people stayed in the city.

The ruins of Ishigakiyama Castle
Osaka Castle
The miniature model of Hizen-Nagoya Castle, the castle town, and some grounds for the military positions, exhibited by the Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum

Gorgeous and strong castle

Hizen-Nagoya Castle had the Main Enclosure with the five-layer Main Tower and the Main Hall at the highest position. Five routes led to the caste. The main ones were the Main Route, the Back Route and the Yamazato Route. The Main Route went from the south to the Third Enclosure in the east of the Main Enclosure via the Eastern Barbican Enclosure. The Main Gate of the Main Enclosure led to the Third Enclosure. The Back Route started from the outside of the Second Enclosure in the west of the Main Enclosure. However, the route did not go to the Main Enclosure directly, and it went south of it to the Third Enclosure in the east. Some historians speculate the Back route should have been the actual Main Route because it is more defensive. The Yamazato Route led to the Yamazato-maru Enclosure, lower and north of the Third Enclosure. Hideyoshi’s residence with a tea-ceremony house was built in the former. All the enclosures were surrounded by high stone walls, which made the castle strong and showed Hideyoshi’s authority.

The Main Tower and the Main Enclosure in the miniature model
The three main routes written by myself on the location map at the site
Hideyoshi’s residence in the front of the model

Long battle and Breakdown after Hideyoshi’s death

The invasion of Korea started in 1592. That was originally for the conquest of China, but eventually caused a battle with Korea, because of the country was on the way to China. The Japanese Army at first occupied most of Korea instantly. Hideyoshi stayed and instructed the army from Hizen-Nagoya Castle. He was very pleased to hear the good news and even planned how he would divide China and Korea. However, the battle line was stuck in the southern part of Korea due to the reinforcements sent by the Ming Dynasty of China and the countermeasures taken by the Korean volunteer soldiers and navy. In 1593, envoys from the Ming Emperor came to this castle for the cease-fire negotiations.

“Painting of defense of Busanjin Fortress” depicting Japanese Siege of Busanjin in 1592  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The miniature model of a Japanese warship called Atakebune, exhibited by the Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum
The miniature model of a breech-loading swivel gun, one of the weapons of the Ming Military, exhibited by the Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum

The negotiations continued for a long time, however, they failed. The war resumed in the southern part of Korea in in 1597. The unmotivated Japanese Army had to fight the useless war with the Ming Military. Many innocent Korean people were also killed. The Japanese Army finally withdrew from Korea immediately after Hideyoshi’s death in 1598. The failure of the war sped up the destruction of the Toyotomi Clan and the foundation of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Hizen-Nagoya Castle was abandoned at the same time and returned to a quiet place.

“Ulsan Siege Folding Screen” depicting the battle of Ulsan Castle in 1597, owned by Fukuoka City Museum  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
“The folding screen of Hizen-Nagoya Castle” , owned by the Saga Prefectural Nagoya Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Hizen-Nagoya Castle Part2”