The mountain and ruins protected by the Tokugawa Clan
Later History
After the battle in 1584, Komakiyama Castle was abandoned again. In the beginning of the Edo Period, parts of the huge stones were taken away for the construction of Nagoya Castle. You can see one stone which was divided but was not used in the construction. During the Edo Period, the Tokugawa Clan banned people from entering Mt. Komakiyama, because the place was the site of the ruins of their founder Ieyasu’s victory and fortune. For many years during the Modern Times, the mountain was privately owned by the Tokugawa Clan. It is said that it made the foundation of the castle very durable. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1927 after the Tokugawa Clan donated the mountain to the nation.
The stone which was divided but was not used in the construction for Nagoya CastleThe cross section of the earthen walls at the north entrance
My Impression
It was believed previously, that Komakiyama Castle was just a temporary position for Nobunaga to plan his next step. However, the achievement of the recent excavation made people change their ideas about the castle. I was actually surprised to see the remains of the huge stones and learned they came from Nobunaga’s ideas about castle building. I am looking forward to seeing new discoveries and studies in the future.
The remaining huge stones on the mountainA view from the top of the mountain
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car: It is about 10 minutes away from Komaki IC on Tomei Expressway. There are several parking lots around the mountain including the Komaki City Hall. By train, it takes about 30 minutes on foot from Komaki Station on Meitetsu Komaki Line. To get to Komaki Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, get off at Nagoya Station, transfer to the Higashiyama Subway Line, transfer at Sakae Station to the Meijo Subway Line, and transfer at Heandori Station to Meitetsu Komaki Line.
Now we can still see Mt. Komakiyama covered with the green of the plants noticeable on the plain area. The building on the top is the Komaki City History Museum which looks like a Main Tower. Komaki City has been developing the whole of the mountain as a historical park. The city opened Komakiyama Castle Historical Site Information Center at the foot in 2019.
A view of Mt. Komakiyama from the city area
The aerial photo around the castle
When you get close to the mountain, you can find earthen walls and dry moats surrounding it. They were made by Ieyasu Tokugawa when the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute happened in 1584. From the Miyukibashi Entrance of the eastern side, you can enter the park across the wooden bridge through the alternate earthen walls. The bridge is not original but was built just for tourists to enter the park easily. Inside the walls, there are plain enclosures which were used for the houses of Nobunaga and his retainers, and also used as military posts of Ieyasu’s troops.
The mountain surrounded by the earthen wallsThe Miyukibashi EntranceThe inside of the earthen walls
Main Road similar to Azuchi Castle
From the Main Entrance of the southern side, you can walk up the Main Route, which Nobunaga originally created, to the mountain. The route goes up straight to the mid-slope of the mountain and becomes zigzagged in the upper part. This formation is very similar to that of Azuchi Castle which was Nobunaga’s last home base. This meant he had his own ideas about building castles from an early age.
The Main Route of Komakiyama CastleThe Main Route of Azuchi CastleThe Main Route above the mid slopeThe Main Route of Azuchi Castle (above the mid slope)
Remaining Huge Stones and Stone Walls on Mountain
The Komaki City History Museum is on the top of the mountain where the Main Enclosure was. Around the top, you can see several huge stones lying down. In fact, these stones originally were built in the stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure. Part of the stone walls still remain, and they were thought to be built by Ieyasu, not Nobunaga. However, the recent excavation found out that Nobunaga built these stone walls using huge stones. They were made into three tiers to demonstrate his authority. They are now recognized as a very early example of stone walls for a castle built in Nobunaga’s unique way.
The Komaki City History Museum (licensed by Bariston via Wikimedia Commons)Around the topOne of the lying down huge stonesThe remaining stone walls
Please pay attention to both the top and foot of the mountain.
Features
The map around the castle
To Castle Ruins on Top
Now, the area around Mt. Kinkazan has become one of the most popular tourist spots in the Gifu Prefecture. You can easily go to the top of the mountain by the Kinkazan Ropeway. If you want to climb up there, it is common to use the Nanamagari Trail which was the Main Route for the castle. The tail is relatively gently sloped, so it takes around one hour to reach the top, climbing to about 300m from the ground.
A view of the Main Tower from the city areaThe beginning of the Nanamagari TrailThe Nanamagari TrailGoing to the top
The top is actually also a tourist spot where the ropeway terminal, a restaurant, a zoo, and the imitation Main Tower stand. The routes around the top have also been paved in a modern style. However, you can see rocky surfaces made of chert everywhere on the top. As for the ruins of the castle, there are the ruins of the First Gate where the huge stones for the gate collapsed. After seeing the defensive trenches called “Horikiri”, next comes the ruins of the Second Gate. Their plaster walls have been rebuilt recently, but some of the stone walls are original. You should check out the two steps of stone walls under the route from the Second Gate to the Main Tower. The method for building the stone walls is very old, so it is thought that they were built by Nobunaga.
Arriving at the topThe ruins of the First GateThe huge stones for the gateThe defensive trenches called “Horikiri”The ruins of the Second GateThe stone walls under the route to the Main TowerThe stone walls have two tiers
A Great View from Main Tower
The imitation Main Tower was built in 1956, based on the drawings of the Three-Story Turret in Kano Castle. The turret was burned in the Edo Period, but there was a rumor that it might have been moved from the Gifu Castle. The interior of the tower is used as a museum which exhibits the history of the castle and Nobunaga. The top floor is also a sightseeing tower where you can see a great view of the area around, including Nagara-gawa River. The stone wall base of the tower looks very old. In fact, the stones are original, but the style is not, as the stones were re-piled when the tower was rebuilt.
The imitation Main TowerA view from the Main Tower (Nagaragawa River side)A view from the Main Tower (Mountain side)The stone walls for the Main Tower
You can also climb down on another tail, for example, from the ruins of the Back Gate. The gate also used huge stones of which you can see the remains on the route. After going down for a while, you can also see the huge, holy rock called “Eboshi-iwa”. The Inaba Shrine was originally located around the rock.
The ruins of the Back Gate.The remaining huge stonesYou can see rocky surfaces made of chert here and thereThe Eboshi-iwa Rock
Ruins of Nobunaga’s Residence
At the foot of the mountain, I recommend that you visit the ruins of Nobunaga’s palace residence, because, in fact, it might have been the center of the castle. At the entrance, you can see the remains of the alternate huge stones which were 1.7m high in the past. Walking up the stairs around the terraced stone walls, there is an empty spacious space where the main building was constructed. In the back of it, there were also buildings for the tearoom and sightseeing with an artificial water garden using huge stones. Another pond garden was next to it, and an artificial river flew from the fountain between them. Moreover, these gardens were connected to the main building by the air corridors. Nobunaga seemed to use his palace residence for official ceremonies and for hosting important visitors.
The entrance of the residence ruinsThe stairs to the ruins of the main buildingThe ruins of the main buildingThe ruins of the gardensThe imaginary drawing of around the gardens (Gifu Castle Museum)The residence ruinsThe imaginary drawing of the residence (from the signboard at the site)
