141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1

The castle in a small town had a hard history.

Location and History

Endo Clan first builds it as Stronghold for battle

Gujo-Hachiman town is well known for its attractions such as an old street atmosphere, the beauties of nature, and the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the summer. It was originally the castle town of Gujo-Hachiman Castle which was first built on Ushikubi-yama Mountain back in 1559. At that time during the Sengoku Period, almost all the people in Japan had to protect themselves and govern their communities all by themselves. In a small region called Gujo District in the northern mountain part of Mino Province, which is now the modern day Gujo City in Gifu Prefecture, the Endo and Tou Clans battled each other over the district. Eventually, the Endo Clan would win and their stronghold for the battle directly became Gujo-Hchiman Castle. The name “Hachiman” originates from a shrine’s name which the clan established at the foot of the mountain. The castle was said to be a simple mountain castle made of soil.

Gujo-Hachiman town with the beauties of nature

The location of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

Yoshitaka Endo, the lord of the castle in the late 16th Century, had to work under other greater warlords in the Chubu Region, such as the Saito Clan and the Oda Clan. This was because lords of small regions did not power, therefore, needed to be guaranteed by great warlords in order to maintain their territories. On the other hand, they also needed to find out the next leader whom they would be working under. In the case of Yoshitaka, he supported Nobutaka Oda in Gifu Castle, who fought against Hideyoshi Toyotomi and was defeated in 1583. Unfortunately, he made a bad choice and surrendered to Hideyoshi. He was once overlooked, however he was eventually transferred from the lord of Gujo-Hachiman Castle to a much smaller territory by Hideyoshi in 1588.

The family crest of the Endo Clan, called Kikko ni Hanabishi or A diamond shaped flower in a tortoise shell  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Inaba Clan’s Modernization and Endo Clan’s revenge

After that, Sadamichi Inaba became the lord of the Gujo-Hachiman Castle and started to renovate and modernize the castle by building stone walls around the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain. The enclosure had the stone wall base for a Main Tower on it, but it was uncertain weather or not the Main Tower was built. It was also surrounded by the Belt Enclosures with tripled stone walls. Moreover, the back of the Main Enclosure which was the part connecting to other mountains was separated by doubled deep ditches. Gujo-Hachiman Castle became a strong castle protected not only by natural terrain but also by the advanced structures.

The portrait of Sadamichi Inaba, owned by Gekkeiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

On the other hand, Yoshitaka Endo was waiting to recover. The chance to recover came in 1600 when the battle of Sekigahara would take place. He found out that Sadamichi Inaba supported the Western squad, therfore, he decided to join the Eastern squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa. He began attacking Gujo-Hachiman Castle after Ieyasu’s approval in advance of Sekigahara. Both troops by Yoshitaka and Sadamichi fought a hard battle, especially in the back of the Main Enclosure. The castle survived most lilely because it got much stronger than Yoshitaka underestimated the strength of the castle. However, Yoshitaka eventually got the castle back in the end as the Eastern squad was victorious in the Battle of Sekigahara. Yoshitaka became the founder of the Gujo Domain under the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The picture of the battle at Gujo-Hachiman Castle in 1600, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

Gujo uprising before Government by Aoyama Clan

A big incident happened in the Gujo Domain, which was called the Gujo uprising, in 1758 when the Kanamori Clan governed following the Endo and Inoue Clans. Yorikane Kanamori was the lord of the domain and had an important role for the shogunate which cost a lot of money. Unfortunatelly, his domain was relatively small and had lower income than what he needed. Therefore, he decided to raise the tax rate by changing how to estimate the amount of harvested rice with the cooperation from some high class officers of the shogunate. This made farmers in the domain very angry, together in the rice warehouse at the foot of the mountain. They submitted a petition asking not to raise the tax. However, the domain refused this petition. So then the farmers brought this action in the lord in Edo, a member of shogun’s council of elders, and finally the shogun itself. This incident resulted in many farmers being executed, some shogunate officers were also displaced, and the Kanamori Clan were fired from the lord of the Gujo Domain.

The family crest of the Kanamori Clan, called Ura Umebachi or Back of a plum flower inside pots (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The monument of the Gujo uprising (licensed by のりまき via Wikimedia Commons)

The Aoyama Clan followed the lord of the domain caring for farmers so that another incident would not happen. The clan also allowed people to dance in the town freely, which was said to be the origin of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival. As for the Gujo-Hachiman Castle, the clan moved the center of the castle from the top of the mountain to the Second Enclosure at the foot, where the Main Hall was. This was a typical way for the lords in the Edo Period to govern their domain in the peaceful time. As a result, the Second Enclosure was turned into the Main Enclosure. The former Main Enclosure was then divided into the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure.

The family crest of the Aoyama Clan, called Aoyama Zeni or The Aoyama coin (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
The statues of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the town
The miniature model of Gujo-Hachiman Castle and its castle town in the Edo Period, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

To be continued in “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part2”

148.Hamamatsu Castle Part3

The castle still has many mysteries.

Features

Around Castle

The map around the castle

If you have more time, how about visiting the ruins of Hikema Castle which now becomes a Toshogu Shrine. You can see a view and good location of the present Hamamatsu Castle in the distance.

The ruins of Hikema Castle
The Toshogu Shrine

I also recommend visiting ruins regarding the Battle of Mikatagahara such as Saigagake valley. You can still see the deep valley at 13m, which was originally about 40 m. There is the Saigagake Museum beside the valley, where you can learn Ieyasu’s life.

The present Saigagake Valley
The diorama of Ieyasu going to the battlefield. exhibited by the Saigagake Museum

There is also the monument of the battle, about 10km north from the museum.

the monument of the Battle OF Mikatagahara

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hamamatsu Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. The Many parts of the castle were turned into a city area and only the central part remained as an observation platform. After World War II, Hamamatsu City bought and opened it as Hamamatsu Castle Park. The city is considering restoring the past castle.

The rebuilt Main Tower
The restored Main Tower Gate

My Impression

I once thought the remaining stone walls of Hamamatsu Castle were built by Ieyasu. However, I learned that the legacies of the castle come from many clans and periods. I also learned that the castle still has a lot of mysteries. I hope that these mysteries will be solved one by one through the excavation and studies in the future.

The remaining stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure
The rebuilt Main Tower seen over the stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 30 minutes away from Hamamatsu IC on the Tomei Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the JR Hamamatsu Station.
To get to Hamamatsu Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express.

Links and References

Hamamatsu Castle Park

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part1”
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part2”

148.Hamamatsu Castle Part2

The small size Imitation Main Tower is on the original stone walls base.

Features

To Park Entrance

Today, Hamamatsu Castle has been developed as Hamamatsu Castle Park. The Main Tower Enclosure and part of the Main Enclosure remain in the park. If you walk to the park from Hamamatsu Station, you will see the Hamamatsu City Hall, which was part of the Second Enclosure in the past, on the left. You can enter the road to the entrance of the park in the north of the hall. You will see the ruins of the Main and Second Enclosures being excavated over the fence on the right.

The map around the castle

The Hamamatsu City Hall
The entrance to Hamamatsu Castle Park
The road to the park
Part of the Main and Second Enclosures under excavation

You will reach the wall of the cross section of the Main Enclosure, which was cut in the present time, so you will need to go around to the left or right corner of the wall to enter the park. No matter which entrance you choose, you’d reach the remaining part of the main enclosure. There is a statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa, and the ruins of the Fujimi Turret on the earthen walls.

The signpost of the park entrance in front of the wall of the cross section of the Main Enclosure
Going to the Main Enclosure through the right side entrance
The inside of the Main Enclosure
The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa
The ruins of the Fujimi Turret

Remaining Old style Stone Walls

The highlight of the castle is the remaining stone walls of the Main Tower and Main Enclosures. They were basically piled using natural stones, one of the earliest methods for castles’ stone walls, called Nozura-zumi. They look very old and Yoshiharu Horio originally built them

A view of the Main Tower Enclosure from the ruins of the Fujimi Turret
The stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure

If you look at the back side of the enclosure, you will also find these stone walls were built on the upper part of natural terrain. This is another early method, called Hachimaki-Ishigaki or the Headband Stone Walls, when the techniques for high stone walls weren’t developed. These stone walls were also bent elaborately like a folding screen, called Byobu-ore. This structure allowed the defenders to do direct attack from some points of the stone walls when enemies would attack the castle.

The Headband Stone Walls at the back side of the Main Tower Enclosure
The stone walls like a folding screen

The Main Tower Gate was recently restored in 2014 in a traditional way, based on the achievement of the excavation. You can not only go though the gate but also enter the inside of it.

The restored Main Tower Gate
The entrance to the inside of the gate

Main Tower is rebuilt smaller than Original

Apart from it, the Rebuilt Main Tower on the remaining stone wall base has been a symbol of the castle since it was built in 1958. The reason why we call it “Rebuilt”, and not “Restored”, is the unknown original Main Tower and that, in fact, the tower looks much smaller for the stone wall base. Perhaps it is because there was not enough budget for a tower which fits the base.

The small Rebuilt Main Tower on the original stone wall base
The comparison of the sizes between the rebuilt tower and estimated original one, exhibited in the Rebuilt Main Tower

However, you can enter the tower, learn about the castle, and enjoy a view of Hamamatsu City, as the tower is used as a historical museum and observation platform.

The excavated well for the original tower, exhibited in the Rebuilt Main Tower
An exhibition in the Rebuilt Main Tower
A view of the city area from the observation platform

To be continued in “Hamamatsu Castle Part3”
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part1”