144.Ogaki Castle Part1

A castle which might have been a crucial battle field

Location and History

Battlefield of Crucial Event

The Battle of Sekigahara have been one of the most crucial events in the Japanese History. The East squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West squad led by Mitsunari Ishida battled each other at Sekigahara Field in 1600 before the Tokugawa Shogunate was established. Most Japanese people know about Skigahara, but what about Ogaki Castle? In fact, the castle might have become the battle field of the crucial event if the situation changed (if Mitsunari decided to stay in that castle).

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Mitsunari Ishida、 owned by Hajime Sugiyama (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ogaki Castle as Important Point

Ogaki Castle was located in the western part of Mino Province (now Gifu Prefecture) connecting to western Japan trough Sekigahara. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but it became important as the country had been unified in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. The ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi said “Ogaki Castle is an important point” and actually sent his relatives to the castle as its lords. The castle was built on a plain land, but surrounded by several moats and rivers, which looked like a Water Castle.

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Ogaki Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of the castle

After Hideyoshi died in 1598, a political conflict began between Ieyasu Tokugawa and Mitsunari Ishida. Mitsunari doubted Ieyasu would take over the power of Hideyoshi’s young son, Hideyori who was still the ruler of Japan. Ieyasu went to eastern Japan to conquer the Uesugi Clan who were against Ieyasu in June 1600. Mitsunari raised an army to defeat Ieyasu in July in western Japan. The East and West squads were expected to fight in central Japan including Ogaki Castle and Sekigahara. Mitsunari stayed in Ogaki Castle as his stronghold and built several battle castles, such as Nangusan Castle, on the mountains behind Ogaki Castle for his allies to stay. He was waiting for Ieyasu’s attack at the castle doing as best as he could. He also built large mountain castles such as Matsuoyama Castle around Sekigahara Field to call for a great warlord, Terumoto Mori and his master, Hideyori to support him. If his plans came true, Ieyasu might have been defeated because Hideyori was still Ieyasu’s master as well.

The portrait of Hideyori Toyotomi, owned by Yogenin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Why did Mitsunari leave Castle?

However, on September 15th, Mitsunari suddenly got away from the castle, fought against Ieyasu at Sekigahara Field, and defeated in a day. Why did Mitsunari cancel his own plan and choose the field battle he probably dislike but Ieyasu was more familiar with? The long-accepted theory says Mitsunari noticed Ieyasu tried to skip Ogaki Castle and attack western Japan directly. Mitsunari and his allies were one jump ahead of Ieyasu, and took up their positions at the field. They fought well in the first part, but finally got defeated by the betrayal of Hideaki Kobayakawa, one of their allies, during the battle. This story is dramatic, so Japanese people believed it for a long time. However, it was first seen in war chronicles in the Edo Period, about 60 years later than the actual battle. I also think the reason above is too weak for Mitsunari to leave the castle.

The portrait of Hideaki Kobayakawa, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Some new studies may tell us the real reasons why Mitsuhide left Ogaki Castle. According to these studies, Hideaki Kobayakawa was expected to support the East quad earlier than what the previous theory says. Hideaki occupied Matsuoyama Castle and moved to Sekigahara Field before the battle against Mitsunari’s plan. If he stayed, he could have been attacked on both sides. Mitsunari might have noticed Hideaki’s movement, so this may be why he quickly moved to Sekigahara to avoid the worst situation. One theory says Mitsunari tried to get to another mountain castle, called Tama Castle, to fight against Ieyasu and Hideaki, but was unfortunately defeated around Sekigahara Field. After the battle, some Mitunari’s retainers still stayed in Ogaki Castle, however, they were outnumbered. They surrendered after being besieged by the East squad for about a week.

The folding screens of the Sekigahara Battle, owned by Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ogaki as City of Water

After the Battle of Sekigahara, Ogaki Castle was still recognized as an important point connecting eastern and western Japan. Several different lords governed and improved the castle. For example, the Ishikawa Clan completed the Outer Moat and the Matsudaira Clan renovated the four-level Main Tower. The tower was in the Main Enclosure which is connected with the Second Enclosure where the Main Hall for the lord was. Both enclosures were surrounded by the Inner Moat. Overall, the tripled moats surrounded the castle. In addition, the castle town was consolidated with the castle by waterways and rivers. That’s why Ogaki City has been called The city of water. Since 1635, the Toda Clan governed the castle and the area was called the Ogaki Domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The four-level Main Tower of Ogaki Castle, from the signboard at the site
Part of the illustration of Ogaki Castle in Mino Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
The center of Ogaki Castle, from the illustration above
The statue of Ujikane Toda, the founder of the clan in the Ogaki Domain

To be continued in “Ogaki Castle Part2”

141.Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part1

The castle in a small town had a hard history.

Location and History

Endo Clan first builds it as Stronghold for battle

Gujo-Hachiman town is well known for its attractions such as an old street atmosphere, the beauties of nature, and the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the summer. It was originally the castle town of Gujo-Hachiman Castle which was first built on Ushikubi-yama Mountain back in 1559. At that time during the Sengoku Period, almost all the people in Japan had to protect themselves and govern their communities all by themselves. In a small region called Gujo District in the northern mountain part of Mino Province, which is now the modern day Gujo City in Gifu Prefecture, the Endo and Tou Clans battled each other over the district. Eventually, the Endo Clan would win and their stronghold for the battle directly became Gujo-Hchiman Castle. The name “Hachiman” originates from a shrine’s name which the clan established at the foot of the mountain. The castle was said to be a simple mountain castle made of soil.

Gujo-Hachiman town with the beauties of nature

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Gujo-Hachiman Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

Yoshitaka Endo, the lord of the castle in the late 16th Century, had to work under other greater warlords in the Chubu Region, such as the Saito Clan and the Oda Clan. This was because lords of small regions did not power, therefore, needed to be guaranteed by great warlords in order to maintain their territories. On the other hand, they also needed to find out the next leader whom they would be working under. In the case of Yoshitaka, he supported Nobutaka Oda in Gifu Castle, who fought against Hideyoshi Toyotomi and was defeated in 1583. Unfortunately, he made a bad choice and surrendered to Hideyoshi. He was once overlooked, however he was eventually transferred from the lord of Gujo-Hachiman Castle to a much smaller territory by Hideyoshi in 1588.

The family crest of the Endo Clan, called Kikko ni Hanabishi or A diamond shaped flower in a tortoise shell  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Inaba Clan’s Modernization and Endo Clan’s revenge

After that, Sadamichi Inaba became the lord of the Gujo-Hachiman Castle and started to renovate and modernize the castle by building stone walls around the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain. The enclosure had the stone wall base for a Main Tower on it, but it was uncertain weather or not the Main Tower was built. It was also surrounded by the Belt Enclosures with tripled stone walls. Moreover, the back of the Main Enclosure which was the part connecting to other mountains was separated by doubled deep ditches. Gujo-Hachiman Castle became a strong castle protected not only by natural terrain but also by the advanced structures.

The portrait of Sadamichi Inaba, owned by Gekkeiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

On the other hand, Yoshitaka Endo was waiting to recover. The chance to recover came in 1600 when the battle of Sekigahara would take place. He found out that Sadamichi Inaba supported the Western squad, therfore, he decided to join the Eastern squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa. He began attacking Gujo-Hachiman Castle after Ieyasu’s approval in advance of Sekigahara. Both troops by Yoshitaka and Sadamichi fought a hard battle, especially in the back of the Main Enclosure. The castle survived most lilely because it got much stronger than Yoshitaka underestimated the strength of the castle. However, Yoshitaka eventually got the castle back in the end as the Eastern squad was victorious in the Battle of Sekigahara. Yoshitaka became the founder of the Gujo Domain under the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The picture of the battle at Gujo-Hachiman Castle in 1600, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

Gujo uprising before Government by Aoyama Clan

A big incident happened in the Gujo Domain, which was called the Gujo uprising, in 1758 when the Kanamori Clan governed following the Endo and Inoue Clans. Yorikane Kanamori was the lord of the domain and had an important role for the shogunate which cost a lot of money. Unfortunatelly, his domain was relatively small and had lower income than what he needed. Therefore, he decided to raise the tax rate by changing how to estimate the amount of harvested rice with the cooperation from some high class officers of the shogunate. This made farmers in the domain very angry, together in the rice warehouse at the foot of the mountain. They submitted a petition asking not to raise the tax. However, the domain refused this petition. So then the farmers brought this action in the lord in Edo, a member of shogun’s council of elders, and finally the shogun itself. This incident resulted in many farmers being executed, some shogunate officers were also displaced, and the Kanamori Clan were fired from the lord of the Gujo Domain.

The family crest of the Kanamori Clan, called Ura Umebachi or Back of a plum flower inside pots (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The monument of the Gujo uprising (licensed by のりまき via Wikimedia Commons)

The Aoyama Clan followed the lord of the domain caring for farmers so that another incident would not happen. The clan also allowed people to dance in the town freely, which was said to be the origin of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival. As for the Gujo-Hachiman Castle, the clan moved the center of the castle from the top of the mountain to the Second Enclosure at the foot, where the Main Hall was. This was a typical way for the lords in the Edo Period to govern their domain in the peaceful time. As a result, the Second Enclosure was turned into the Main Enclosure. The former Main Enclosure was then divided into the Cherry Enclosure and the Pine Enclosure.

The family crest of the Aoyama Clan, called Aoyama Zeni or The Aoyama coin (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
The statues of the Gujo Odori Dance Festival in the town
The miniature model of Gujo-Hachiman Castle and its castle town in the Edo Period, exhibited in the Main Tower of the castle

To be continued in “Gujo-Hachiman Castle Part2”

148.Hamamatsu Castle Part3

The castle still has many mysteries.

Features

Around Castle

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Toshogu Shrine(Hikema Castle)
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The map around the castle

If you have more time, how about visiting the ruins of Hikema Castle which now becomes a Toshogu Shrine. You can see a view and good location of the present Hamamatsu Castle in the distance.

The ruins of Hikema Castle
The Toshogu Shrine

I also recommend visiting ruins regarding the Battle of Mikatagahara such as Saigagake valley. You can still see the deep valley at 13m, which was originally about 40 m. There is the Saigagake Museum beside the valley, where you can learn Ieyasu’s life.

The present Saigagake Valley
The diorama of Ieyasu going to the battlefield. exhibited by the Saigagake Museum

There is also the monument of the battle, about 10km north from the museum.

the monument of the Battle OF Mikatagahara

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hamamatsu Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. The Many parts of the castle were turned into a city area and only the central part remained as an observation platform. After World War II, Hamamatsu City bought and opened it as Hamamatsu Castle Park. The city is considering restoring the past castle.

The rebuilt Main Tower
The restored Main Tower Gate

My Impression

I once thought the remaining stone walls of Hamamatsu Castle were built by Ieyasu. However, I learned that the legacies of the castle come from many clans and periods. I also learned that the castle still has a lot of mysteries. I hope that these mysteries will be solved one by one through the excavation and studies in the future.

The remaining stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure
The rebuilt Main Tower seen over the stone walls of the Main Tower Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 30 minutes away from Hamamatsu IC on the Tomei Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the JR Hamamatsu Station.
To get to Hamamatsu Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express.

Links and References

Hamamatsu Castle Park

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part1”
Back to “Hamamatsu Castle Part2”