140.Genbao Castle Part1

The stronghold of Katsuie Shibata in the Battle of Shizugatake

Location and History

A castle built against Hideyoshi Hashiba

Genbao Castle was located on the border between Echizen and Omi Provinces, which are modern day Fukui and Shiga Prefectures. It was built by Katsuie Shibata who owned Echizen Province when the Battle of Shizugatake happened in 1583. After the ruler, Nobunaga Oda died in the Honnoji Incident in 1582, his senior vassals, Katsuie and Hideyohsi Hashiba argued against each other over the initiative. Hideyoshi invaded the northern Omi Province, which Katsuie had owned, and started to build many battle castles near the border of Echizen Province which was the home base of Katsuie. Katsuie also confronted Hideyoshi by building his own battle castles around the border. Genbao Castle was the center of these battle castles and Katsuie’s stronghold. Part of its name Genba comes from an official post.”Genba” is the name given to warriors who are highly respected, but it is uncertain whose official name it came from.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Katsuie Shibata, from the signboard at the site of Kitanosho Castle Ruins
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Enclosures on Mountain Top

The castle was built on the top of Nakauchio Mountain which was 445m high and also the border. It was also able to control the road over a mountain pass between the provinces, called Tone-toge near the castle. The enclosures of the castle were built on the top of the ridge from the north to the south. The front of the castle was open to the south, the mountain pass and Omi Province where Hideyoshi invaded. Because of that, the southern side of the castle was strongly protected with two enclosures in line. On the other hand, the northern side had the largest enclosure which was used as a military post. The Main Enclosure was the center of the castle, where Katsuie probably lived. It had a Main Tower or large turret, and attached three projecting small enclosures called Umadashi or Overhang for defense.

The relief map around the castle

The layout of the castle, from the signboard at the site, adding red letters

Sakuma Morimasa’s offensive vs Hideyoshi’s counterattack

On the 16th of April 1583, Katsuie’s ally, Nobutaka Oda fought an army at Gifu Castle in Mino Province against Hideyoshi. Hideyoshi went to Mino Province to crush it on April 17th. Katsuie thought it was a good opportunity to attack Hideyoshi’s side. Morimasa Sakuma, who worked under Katsuie, moved onward to capture some of Hideyoshi’s battle castles on April 19th. However, that was Hideyoshi’s trap. Morimasa succeeded in capturing a battle castle, and wanted to get one more called Shizugatake Fortress. Then, Hideyoshi immediately got back to his original position and counterattacked Morimasa on April 20th. Katsuie and Morimasa were finally defeated by Hideyoshi. An old biography about Hideyoshi called Hoan Taikoki, published in 1626 by Hoan Oze, says Morimasa’s reckless actions caused his destruction although Katsuie advised him to withdraw after his first attack. Many Japanese people have believed it for a very long time.

The picture of the Morimasa Sakuma, attributed to Nobukazu Yousai, in 1893 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Is Most Important Factor Toshiie Maeda’s withdrawal?

Recent studies show Morimasa’s actions were not critical. Toshiie Maeda, another ally of Katsuie, who would be a great lord after Hideyoshi became the ruler, eventually withdrew without Katsuie’s permission at the same time as Hideyoshi’s counterattack. It was the decisive trigger for Hideyoshi’s victory and Katsuie’s lost. Why didn’t Hoan describe this most important factor? The answer is that Hoan was a dependent of the Maeda Clan. The action of Toshiie Maeda, the founder of the clan, was probably promised to Hideyoshi, but later people would think it was a betrayal. It was thought Hoan was not able to record this fact which may be a shame of Maeda, therefore he blamed another person for the lost. Genbao Castle was strong, but was meant to work closely with other battle castles. Katsuie had to withdraw from the castle without a battle when his ally gave up on the duty.

The portrait of Toshiie Maeda, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Genbao Castle Part2”

137.Fukui Castle Part3

The castle ruins are still the center of Fukui Prefecture.

Features

Ruins of First Kitanosho Castle

I also recommend visiting the ruins of the first Kitanosho Castle which Katsuie Shibata built, about 300m away from Fukui Castle Ruins to the south. You can only see the base stones for the castle because Fukui Castle was built on the Kitanosho Castle Ruins.

The ruins of Kitanosho Castle in Echizen Province
These are the stone walls of Fukui Castle
The base stones of the first Kitanosho Castle

However, you can also see the statues of Katuie, his wife and his three daughters. These women are well-known in Japanese history. One of the daughters was the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi’s wife. Another was the wife of Hidetada Tokugawa who was a little brother of Hideyasu Yuki, the founder of Fukui Castle.

The statue of Katsuie Shibata
The statue of Katsuie’s wife
The statues of the three sisters

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Fukui Castle was abandoned. All the buildings of the castle were demolished and all its area except for the center of the castle was turned into the city area. In 1873, the former lord of the castle, the Matsudaira Clan opened Matsudaira Agricultural Experimental Station in the center of the castle until it was moved to another in 1921. Instead, The Fukui Prefectural Office was moved to the Main Enclosure in 1923. Since then, the castle ruins have been the center of the local government like the castle used to be.

Matsudaira Agricultural Experimental Station (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The buildings of the Fukui Prefectural Office (on the right) and Fukui prefectural police headquarters (on the left) at the Main Enclosure

My Impression

A Main Enclosure was usually the center of a castle. It often had the Main Tower and (or) the Main Hall to govern the area around in the Edo Period, like Fukui Castle. Many remaining Main Enclosures have now become historical parks, shrines, or facilities like a museum. However, the Main Enclosure of Fukui Castle is still used by the local government. I think this is the only example of the Main Enclosure being used for a prefectural office. Some people call it the strongest prefectural office in Japan.

The Main Enclosure of Fukuoka Castle (an example of being a historical park)
The Main Enclosure of Takaoka Castle (an example of being a shrine)
The Main Tower of the Main Enclosure of Osaka Castle (an example of being a museum)
The Fukui Prefectural Office which looks like the strongest

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 15 minutes away from Fukui IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
There are several parking lots around the ruins.
You can also use the underground parking lot of the prefectural office on weekdays.
(You need to have the parking ticket stamped at the reception counter.)
By public transportation, it takes less than 10 minutes walking from JR Fukui Station.
To get to Fukui Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the limited express on the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express.

Fukui Station

Links and References

Fukui Castle Ruins, Fukui Prefecture & Fukui Prefectural Tourism Federation

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Fukui Castle Part1”
Back to “Fukui Castle Part2”

137.Fukui Castle Part1

The center of Echizen Province

Location and History

It starts as Kitanosho Castle

Fukui Castle was located in what is now Fukui City, the prefectural capital of Fukui Prefecture. The name of the city originates from this castle. However, the castle was originally named Kitanosho Castle (Kitanosho means like the Northern Manor). Katsuie Shibata under a great warlord, Nobunaga Oda, first built the castle in 1575 when they conquered Echizen Province (now part of Fukui Prefecture).

The location of the castle

The portrait of Katsuie Shibata, from the signboard at the site

When Hideyoshi Hashiba, who would become the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attacked the castle in 1583, he wrote in his letter that the castle had a nine-leveled Main Tower. It’s quite uncertain if the castle really had the nine-leveled Main Tower because the word nine-leveled also means just “have many levels” in Japanese. Katsuie was unfortunately defeated by Hideyoshi, while Kitanosho Castle was burned and destroyed.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
The imaginary drawing of the first Kitanosho Castle, from the signboard at the site

Hideyasu Yuki rebuilds it as Lord of large domain

In 1601, Hideyasu Yuki, the son of the final ruler, Ieyasu Tokugawa, rebuilt Kitanosho Castle as the founder of the Kitanosho Domain. Hideyasu was a big brother of Ieyasu’s successor, Hidetada Tokugawa, but he was sent to Hideyoshi, and the Yuki Clan later to be adopted. It could be because he was not loved by his father, Ieyasu. However, Hideyasu was distinguished in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 before his father became the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Ieyasu finally accepted Hideyasu and allowed him to have a large role in the shogunate. Hideyasu became a lord who had the second largest territory excluding the shogun in Japan with 750,000 kokus of rice. He was also allowed to use the family name “Matsudaira” which means the relatives of the shogun. Echizen Province was very important spot for the shogunate to be near Kyoto, the capital of Japan, and next to the owners of the largest territory, the Maeda Clan.

The statue of Hideyasu Yuki at the ruins of Fukui Castle
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

It is said that Hideyasu’s father, Ieyasu designed part of the layout of Kitanosho castle. The Main Enclosure was the center of the castle, which had the four-leveled Main Tower and the Main Hall and was surrounded by the stone walls and the Inner Moat. The Second Enclosure, the Third Enclosure, and the Outbound Enclosure were built around the center concentrically. These enclosures were divided by the water moats. As a result, the castle was surrounded by quadruple or quintuple water moats. The castle had over 10 turrets and 40 gates. The size of the castle reached about 2km square.

The imaginary drawing of the Main Enclosure of Fukui Castle, from the signboard at the site
The range of Fukui Castle in the Edo Period shown on the present map, from the signboard at the site

Echizen-Matsudaira Clan prospers

The castle was completed in 1606 after Hideyasu died in 1604. The Matsudaira Clan, renamed from the Yuki Clan governed the castle and domain until the end of the Edo Period, while the name of the castle and domain were changed from Kitanosho to Fukui by the third lord, Tadamasa. The Main Tower was unfortunately burned down by a fire in 1669 and not restored. The 14th lord, Shungaku Matsudaira was active in the central government during the end of the Edo Period and the Meiji Restoration.

The portrait of Tadamasa Matsudaira, exhibited by Fukui City History Museum, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
The photo of Shungaku Matsudaira, owned by Fukui City History Museum, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

In addition, Hideyasu’s descendants prospered greatly. The branch families which started from Hideyasu’s sons became the lords of several castles by the end of the Edo Period, such as Tsuyama Castle, Matsue Castle, Maebashi Castle and Akashi Castle. They are often called the Echizen-Matsudaira Clan including the lord of Fukui Castle. We can say Hideyasu’s efforts were rewarded good enough.

Tsuyama Castle
Matsue Castle
Akashi Castle

To be continued in “Fukui Castle Part2”