There are plenty of history to see even in the museum.
Features
Main Enclosure still looks like Castle
Today, the ruins of Kagoshima Castle are used like that the Main Enclosure as the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material called Reimeikan, the Second Enclosure as other public facilities, and Shiroyama Mountain as the Shiroyama Park. In particular, the Main Enclosure still looks like a castle today because its stone walls are still intact and its front gate was recently restored. If you stand in front of the enclosure, you may feel its pride as the home base of the Shimazu Clan.
The aerial photo around the castle
The Main Enclosure of Kagoshima Castle
The stone walls, which are still surrounded by the water moat, are piled precisely by using well processed stones in a method called Kirikomi-hagi. An interesting thing about them is that their one corner has an internal angle of two walls, called Irisumi. This is because the corner faces the northeastern side which was thought to be an unlucky direction, called Kimon or the Devil’s Gate. People who built the castle considered that the specially built corner could prevent misfortunes from the direction.
The stone walls of the Main EnclosureThe Irisumi part at the northeastern corner
The front gate called Goro-mon stands out between the stone walls. It has been said it is one of the largest castle gates in Japan, with its height and width of about 20m. it was restored using wood in April 2020, after 147 years since it had been burned down in 1873, based on its old photos and the remaining stone foundations.
The restored Goro-mon GateThe gate uses thick woods
You can enter the gate by going across the original stone bridge over the moat in front of it. Other stone walls stand inside the gate and you will need to turn right and walk on the zigzagged steps or slopes to reach the center of the enclosure. You can see an uncountable number of dents on the stone walls, which were traces of gun shot by the government army in Seinan War. They make us understand how severe the attack of the army was.
Going across the original stone bridge to enter the gateThe inside of the gateSome of the dents on the stone walls caused by Seinan War
Wonderful exhibitions in Reimeikan Museum
The Reimeikan is an excellent historical museum, which has huge amounts of historical, folk and art items regarding the Kagoshima Prefecture. You can learn about the history including the castle and culture of the prefecture inside. There may be too many items to see in one day. I also recommend seeing very well designed miniature models of historical buildings such as Kagoshima Castle, Shibushi Castle (a local castle in the prefecture) and Izumi Outer Castle.
The Reimeikan MuseumThe miniature model of Kagoshima CastleThe miniature model of Izumi Outer Castle
There are also many dioramas of historical events which helps visitors understand more easily. I hope these good activities of the museum will continue to become more popular.
The diorama of the Tenmonkan street in Taisho EraThe diorama of the Battle of Toba-Fushimi where the Satsuma Domain defeated the Tokugawa Shogunate troops
Shiroyama Mountain like natural park
The Shiroyama Park on Shiroyama Mountain behind the Main Enclosure is easy to go to because the mountain is not so high at only 107m above sea level. You can go up a trail like walking to the top which look like a natural park rather than a historical site. This could be because the Satsuma Domain rarely used the mountain as part of the castle and banned people from entering it during the Edo Period. You can only see the trace of enclosures, which are surrounded by earthen walls, coming from the Kamiyama Clan’s mountain castle before the Shimazu Clan.
The trail to the top of the mountainThe place which is surrounded the earthen walls
Anyway, the top is a very popular view spot of Sakurajima (an active volcano island) and Kagoshima city area, where you can also enjoy the view.
The observation platform near the topA view from the platform, but Sakurajima Island hides behind the cloud
「戦国自衛隊」がいるので、本丸の一部だけが公開されています。 Part of Honmaru is open because of “G.I.Samurai”.
本丸に移された現存二の丸隅櫓～The remaining Ninomaru Sumi Turret which was moved to Honmaru
Location and History
新発田城は、現在の新潟県北部、新発田市に属する平地にありました。中世に新発田氏が最初にこの城を築いたと言われています。戦国時代に織田信長が天下人となったとき、新発田重家は信長と協調し、主君である上杉景勝に対して反乱を起こそうとしました。彼はほとんど成功しかかったのですが、その前に信長は配下の明智光秀に殺されてしまいます。景勝は、今度は信長の後継者である豊臣秀吉と組んで重家を攻撃しました。重家は、ついには新発田城近くの浦城という山城で滅ぼされました。
Shibata Castle was located on a plain area which now belongs to Shibata City in the northern part of Niigata Pref. It is said that the Shibata clan first built the castle in the Middle Ages. When Nobunaga Oda became the ruler of Japan in the Warring States Period, Shigeie Shibata attempted to rebel against his master Kagekatsu Uesugi with Nobunaga. He was mostly successful, but Nobunaga was killed by his man, Mitsuhide Akechi before it happened. Kagekatsu assaulted Suigeie with Nobunaga’s successor Hideyoshi Toyotomi instead. Shigeie was finally beaten at a mountain castle called Ura Castle near Shibata Castle.
上杉景勝肖像画、上杉神社蔵、江戸時代～The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine, in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
溝口秀勝がこの地域の領主として据えられました。彼は、本拠地として新発田城を大改修することにしました。改修後は、この城は三階櫓をシンボルとし、その他の櫓や大型の門を曲輪に築き、石垣や水堀に囲まれていました。以前の城がどうであったのかわからないほどです。
Hidekatsu Mizoguchi was placed as the lord of this area. He decided to renovate Shibata Castle as his home base. After the renovation, the castle had a three-layer turret for the symbol, several other turrets, and large gates on enclosures surrounded by stone walls and water moats. No one knew what it was really like.
溝口秀勝肖像画、宝光寺蔵～The portrait of Hidekatsu Mizoguchi, owned by Hokoji Temple（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedeia Commons）
また、城周辺の区域は湿地帯になっており、敵の攻撃を防ぐようになっていました。溝口氏は江戸自体を通じてこの城を統治しました。城は火災や地震などの災害の被害を受けましたが、そのたびに修復されました。 The area around the castle was also waterlogged which could prevent an enemy’s attack. The Mizoguchi clan governed the castle all through the Edo Period. The castle suffered from disasters like fires and earthquakes, but was restored each time.
「越後国新発田之城絵図」部分、江戸時代～Part of “the illustration of Shibata Castle in Echigo Province, in the Edo Period（出典：国立公文書館）
特徴～Features
現在、本丸の一部分の区域が新発田城址公園として一般に公開されています。本丸表門と二の丸隅櫓が今に残っています。新潟県内では唯一現存する城郭建築となります。隅櫓は最近になって現在の場所に移されてきました。 Now, part of the Honmaru enclosure area is open to the public as Shibata Castle Ruins Park. The Honmaru Front Gate and the Ninomaru Sumi Turret remain. They are the only remaining castle buildings in Niigata Pref. Sumi Turret was moved from the Ninomaru enclosure to the present place recently.
現存する本丸表門～The remaining Honmaru Front Gate現存する二の丸隅櫓と水堀～The remaiing Ninomaru Sumi Turret and water moat（taken by ゆぅーちゃん from photoAC）
他の現存構築物の中では、本丸の南西側の石垣が精巧で且つ美しいとされています。この石垣は、１６６９年の寛文地震の後に再建されたもので、切込はぎと布積み（四角によく加工された石を水平に積んでいく）と呼ばれるその当時としては進んだ方法が使われています。
Among other remaining structures, the Honmaru southwest side stone walls are elaborate and beautiful as they were rebuilt after the 1669 Kanbun Earthquakes with an advanced way at that time called Kirikomihagi and Nunodumi (piling well processed square stones horizontally).
新発田城の石垣～The stone walls of Shibata Castle（taken by Kazuyako from photo AC）
２つの櫓が現代になって復元されました。そのうちの一つは三階櫓で、最初建てられてときの工法で復元されました。
Two turrets were restored in the present days. One of them is the three-layer turret restored in the original way.
復元された三階櫓～The restored Three-Story Turret（taken by ゆぅーちゃん from photoAC）
しかし、残念なことに一般には公開されていません。なぜなら自衛隊の敷地内に建てられているからです。実際、城跡の敷地のほとんどの部分は自衛隊が使用しているのです。
But unfortunately, it is not open to visitors, because it is located within the Japanese Self Defense Force grounds. Actually, most of the ground of the castle ruins is used by the SDF.
城周辺の地図～The normal map around the castle
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo around the castle
その後～Later Life
明治維新後、多くの建物が撤去されました。新発田町は早くから日本陸軍に対して城跡を基地として使ってもらうよう要請してきました。この田舎の小さな町にとって、繁栄のための資源を維持する必要があったのです。軍施設は城跡において１８７１年から１９４５年まで運用され、町に雇用と警備体制を供給しました。１８７４年に木造で作られ、白壁兵舎と呼ばれる兵舎が今に残っています。その建設にあたっては、城の建物の廃材が再利用されていたことが最近判明しました。
After the Meiji restoration, many buildings were demolished. Shibata Town asked the Japanese Army to use the ruins as their base early. This local small town needed to keep their resources for prosperity. The Army ran the ruins between 1871 and 1945, and offered the town jobs and security. There is a remaining barrack called White Wall Barrack which was built in wooden style in 1874. It is recently found that the waste materials of the castle buildings were reused for the construction.
現存している白壁兵舎～The remaining White Wall Barrack（licensed by 663Highland via Wikimedia Commons）
第二次世界大戦後、城跡は一時学校に転用されました。ところが自衛隊が設立されたとき、町は再び城跡を使ってもらうよう申し入れたのです。自衛隊は１９５３年以来、この町に定着しています。このことは、地域と軍隊の結びつきを示す一例とされています。
After World War II, the ruins were once turned into a school. However, when the SDF was founded, the town asked them to use the ruins again. SDF has been settled in the town since 1953. The fact shows an example of the relationship between the town and the army.
陸上自衛隊新発田駐屯地～Japan Ground Self-Defense Force Shibata Base（licensed by 96WAPC via Wikimedea Commons）
私の感想～My Impression
ここの城跡を見るのにいくらかの不便がある一方、多くの人たちが城と軍隊の対照を見て、日本映画の「戦国自衛隊」のようだと言います。この映画は、もし自衛隊が突然戦国時代の世界に放り出されたら何が起こるかという想像の物語です。この城跡のイメージがこの映画とマッチしているようです。
While there is some inconvenience to see the ruins, many people say that the contrast of the castle and the army looks like a Japanese movie “G.I.Samurai”. The movie is a story of the imagination about what would have happened if SDF were suddenly thrown in the world of Warring State Period. The image of the castle ruins area matches the movie for the people.
６１式戦車、この戦車のレプリカが「戦国自衛隊」で登場しました～Type 61 tank, its replica was used in the movie “G.I.Samurai”（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedeia Commons）
更には、現在の日本で軍隊が城跡の真ん中を今だ使っている例は稀と言えます。白壁兵舎は現在博物館として一般に公開されています。そこでは、新発田の軍隊の歴史とともに、どのように城の廃材が使われたのかがわかる展示があります。これらを見ると、新発田城のもう一つの歴史がずっと続いていると実感します。
In addition, it is very rare that an army still uses a center of castle ruins in present Japan. The White Wall Barrack is now open to visitors as a museum. It exhibits the history of the army in Shibata as well as the evidence about how the waste materials of the castle were used. They show that another history of Shibata Castle is continuing..
白壁兵舎の展示室～An exhibition room in White Wall Barrack（licensed by 663Highland via Wikimedia Commons）
ここに行くには～How to get There
ＪＲ新発田駅から歩いて３０分近くかかります。 東京から新発田駅まで： 上越新幹線に乗り、新潟駅でＪＲ白新線に乗り換えてください。 車で行く場合：日本海東北自動車道聖籠新発田ＩＣから約１０分です。城址公園に駐車場があります。 It takes nearly 30 minutes From JR Shibata station to get there on foot. From Tokyo to Shibata st.: Take the Joetsu Shinkansen superexpress to Nigata station, and transfer for JR Hakushin line. If you want to go there by car: It takes about 10 minutes from the Seirou-Shibata IC on Nihonkai-Tohoku Expressway. The ruins offer a parking lot.
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・しばた観光ガイド～Shibata Tourism Guide ・「甲信越の名城を歩く 新潟編」吉川弘文館（Japanese Book） ・「列島中央の軍事拠点（地域のなかの軍隊）」吉川弘文館（Japanese Book） ・「戦国自衛隊」半村良著、角川文庫（The original story of the movie “G.I.Samurai”）
